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Scenario:  I'm transplanting the guts of a 3v ps2 railking 2-8-0 into an older Weaver Also C-630, smoke unit and all.  For expediency sake, my plan is to jamb everything,  including the wiring tether into the diesel because,  well, a C-630 is roomy and I can.

Q1:  on the 2-8-0 there is a resistor wired between the motor terminals.  What is the purpose of this and how should I apply it to the dual motor diesel (if I should retain it at all)?   Related, what is the smartest way to wire in the 2nd motor? Should I splice in on through locomotive side of the harness, or should I just splice both motors in to the yellow/white wires where it plugs into the board?

Q2: is there a way to test the headlight bulbs to see if they're safe to tie in to the PS2 system?   The C-630 came with a DCRU apparently by QSI,  the connectors are the same as PS1 and PS2 use. (Well, since the board is out of a RK 2-8-0, I'll need to add wiring for the reverse light. )
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IS it a resistor or a Capacitor?  Leave the resistor/cap with the 2-8-0.  Not needed.

 

Ideally get 2 more wires with terminals and plug into the 5 pin.

 

If I was doing this, I would not use those harnesses.  Cut the wires at the harness with sufficient room to splice so your coming directly from the PS-2 board connectors to the device it operates.  You can down load the MTH PS-2 diesel upgrade instructions for the diagram of the pinouts/wiring.

 

The DCRU headlights are probably 1.5V if driven off the QSI board.  They need to be 6V bulbs.  You can test with a 1.5V battery.  If bright at 1.5V they will blow on the PS-2 6V.

 

You probably need some wires and the 8 pin to get this right.

 

You need a forward coupler wire, possibly an interior wire for cab lights, and you will need the 8pin for ditch/number boards and forward and rear markers.   I have 8 pin diesel harness available if you need one.  G

Originally Posted by GGG:

IS it a resistor or a Capacitor?  Leave the resistor/cap with the 2-8-0.  Not needed.

 

Ideally get 2 more wires with terminals and plug into the 5 pin.

 

If I was doing this, I would not use those harnesses.  Cut the wires at the harness with sufficient room to splice so your coming directly from the PS-2 board connectors to the device it operates.  You can down load the MTH PS-2 diesel upgrade instructions for the diagram of the pinouts/wiring.

 

The DCRU headlights are probably 1.5V if driven off the QSI board.  They need to be 6V bulbs.  You can test with a 1.5V battery.  If bright at 1.5V they will blow on the PS-2 6V.

 

You probably need some wires and the 8 pin to get this right.

 

You need a forward coupler wire, possibly an interior wire for cab lights, and you will need the 8pin for ditch/number boards and forward and rear markers.   I have 8 pin diesel harness available if you need one.  G

I don't know if it's a resistor or capacitor, it's wrapped in shrink tube, and I didn't bother to cut it off.

 

As far as doing it "right," I'm more worried about the quality of my soldering than any complications from having too much factory wiring.  It's not like the tether is going to wear out from flexing, it will be secure inside the body of the C-630.  

 

I would like to add a front coupler (I know I have at least one extra PS2 coupler in my parts bin) so I might hit you up for a harness.  I'm not concerned about cab lighting or marker/numberboard lights,  the numberboards aren't translucent and the C-630 has 6 marker lights on each end (and I think cab lighting in a cab that's full of a can motor is dumb.)

 

It is not the flexing I am worried about, rather the extra length and gauge of some of the wires.  If soldering an issue than your approach has to do.

 

Can you post a picture of the resistor?  It may be the diodes to generate PV, again not necessary in a diesel application if you wire off board.  Or if it is a circular and flat device, that is a cap and not needed.   G

I have upgraded a 4 Weaver C630/628s.  Unless the donor has marker lights you will not have that function. That being said, you will have to drill out a hole and wire them yourself. You will be able to reuse the headlight from the MTH donor or wire in an Led. The QSI plugs will not work nor will the bulbs. The Weaver shells are tight fitting. You wont be able to fit the smoke unit in along with the battery. The only way you will have room is if your donor was PS3 and even then its tight. You will also have to tap out new holes in the Weaver frame for the volume control and the battery charging port. The weaver frames are from made steel and are thick compared to the MTH frames. You will also need to remove the lead weights as they take up room where you need to put the electronics. You do not need the lead weights the engine is heavy enough without them.  the best donor engine for the Alcos is the MTH RK SD70ace as motors and all are a direct swap in in to the weaver frame and trucks. In this case its to late. Your next issue will be the speaker. The fuel tanks on the weaver are not deep enough for the MTH. Since the Weaver frame has a cutout for the speaker. The magnet for the MTH speaker will be level with the frame and that's also where you will need to mount the PS2 Board. You can reuse the Weaver speaker but it will be tinny in sound. You will need to paint the flywheel with white primer as any other paint will not stick. As for the tach tape and reader you will need to remove the tach reader mount from the old can motor( unless the worm gear depth matches the weaver can motor) and use a zip tie to mount it on the can motor .  I can post pics if you want.

 

Doug

 

 

Last edited by suzukovich
Originally Posted by Wowak:
I already have the smoke unit, the ps2 board, and the battery situated inside the locomotive.   So far I've removed one of the weights but I think I'll be able to move it instead of deleting it.

Like I said. the frames are heavy enough without the weights. It will pull better on you wont eat traction tires.

Originally Posted by RJR:

Mine still has the original traction ties after almost 25 years.  Weaver (Samhongsa?) did a good job on this loco

I had 2 that kept eating traction tires. This was before the upgrades to PS2/3. So I removed the weights to see what would happen and they stopped eating traction tires.. The other ones still have their original traction tires.

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