railsounds

This is probably the board you have.

Mr. gunrunner:

Thanks for your reply---your drawing has black, brown, red & violet wires for the

teather mine has red, black ,yellow &green also mine all go into the unit

my unit doesn't have a chuff setup or any place to plug one in--could I have

a diesel unit ?  (just my luck)

JOHN G

I cant reference what you've listed, and I'm not familiar with your skills, so....

Are the boards for a steamer originally? Is a smoke unit involved somewhere??

 Here are diagrams that might help here(page .22-?) http://www.electricrr.com/Manuals/RSCmdr-Inst.pdf

 If nobody responds with exact diagrams/etc, then photos or drawings may help deliver answers more quickly.

I'll look at it all from the "basics" till then.

 The switch? A slide(direction on/off or program(optional)

 The dual black light lead could be a dual color/focus/bright, or a continuation of ground to something else(I.e. extra), or separate leads to the fwd & rev portions of the plug/board.(single light on a directional output) Test this last, and match to direction at that time. Is it a bulb or LED?

 Will the tender get a light for reverse? Is the headlight to stay on either direction?

    The tether just needs to deliver power to the motor. 3 wires for AC motors. 2 wires for DC motors, [leaving two wires with and/or possibilities. lights? smoke? center rail going back? ground tie) Lighting power can be grabbed off the motor or rail directly. One wire on the tether is likely for front center rail engine rollers to deliver power to the tender.  

Can we see pictures of what you have?  Are you saying the connector that goes to the wheel sensor doesn't exist on your board?  If so, it's probably a different vintage RS board.

Never mind

The ERR stuff is much newer than what he has, that manual isn't going to help here.

The "GEN S" label means 'generic steam', this is an older railsounds steam soundest. 

Railsounds:

This looks like you have it--all I wanted was the whistle any thing else 

would be icing on the cake---now is there a drawing or schmatic that I

can use to get what I want--I can use any help

thanks

Sorry, I don't have schematics. What gunrunner john posted looked like the right era electronics. 

I hope the picture will help--it's my first one

I need to see exactly what connections are on the board and where they're located.  Also, I want to see where the chips and components are so I can identify which version it is.

Also, shoot both sides as close as you can while getting a clear picture.

Wouldn't that be the tender's end of a tether? (then that is a reverse bulb?.)

Are they a standard?

Because power in and chuff are really the only two options for either tether, or red/blk/blk.

  Separate black connections? You'd have to look at the blk/common traces. Separate  traces are inconclusive.

 But connecting traces, or a Y branch at the plug should answer this too (as R/Blk/Blk being there just for power in).   

What you have is a RS 4.0 type tender set up.  Mother board, Power Supply and RS board. 

If you look at the middle board closely (mother board) you will find a part number like 691-PCB1-02A.  Tell me what that is and I can get you a diagram of the wiring for the connectors.

But you might actually see silk screen print that tells you what they are. 

The 2 black are probably coupler wires.  The red, if it goes to a 2 pin large Molex type plug is AC Center rail input. 

Typically going into the tether from the engine is Reverse light control (yellow), Tender coupler control (Red), Serial Data (Green) and AC Outer rail power (Black).  Put you need to verify colors.

Since this is going in PW you will run it conventionally you don't really need the tether.  You just need good AC power input from the tender frame pickup into the mother board.  You can add a hall effect sensor to the tender wheels to get chuff.

No tether just modifications to you tender.  If your putting TMCC into the Engine, then you would want the tether. 

Let me know the part number.  G

Mr. gunrunner:

This is the best I can do

JOHN G

John G did you see my post?  If you pull the board off on the right, you will see the part number for the center board.

But what I posted is probably going to work for you. 

This instruction would probably help too.

 G

Your MB is 691-PCB1-09F, RS power board and RS3 or 4 sound board,

Bill

Bill's right, that's why I wanted to see better pictures.  You have a later RailSounds setup, looks like RailSounds 4 to me, but a closeup of the lettering on the audio board would confirm that.

If you look closely at the board, you'll see that the connections are actually silk-screened next to the connectors.  You won't need the two connectors on the right in in the picture below, only the three on the left.  The black connector with one wire has the wire in the 3rd rail position, the other pin is the ground pin.

The 5-pin connector closest to the audio board connector is as follows from inside to the edge of the board.

Volume Pot End

Volume Pot Wiper

Volume Pot End

Speaker #1

Speaker #2

The Six pin connector in the next row is as follows from the edge of the board toward the middle.

Rear Light

Ground

Battery +

Ground

Rail/Signal sounds

Analog Ground

You'll really only need the middle two for the battery for conventional operation.

Finally, you'll have to have a chuff switch wired to pin 17 of the audio board switched to ground to generate the chuffs.  Typically, that's done with a reed switch glued to the truck and a small magnet glued to the wheel to chuff once each tender wheel rev.

Mr: gunrunner:

I think you have given me what I need---If I read you right I can pull

the teather plug & connect the red & black to track power install battery

& it should work

I have the read switch etc for a later hook up

many thanks

JOHN G

If you want just the whistle and bell, you'll have to jumper the Rail/Signal sounds to Analog Ground on the one connector.  That will silence the "running" sounds since you'll have no chuff.  For just the whistle/bell, you're right, very simple.  You do need the volume pot or at least jumper the wiper to the max volume pin.  Try each end of the pot to the wiper, one will turn the sounds off, the other will set them at max.

Great ! !

Thanks to all of you--this forum is a life saver

JOHN G

Let us know how you make out.

You bet ! !

Again thanks to all

JOHN G

Mr. gunrunner:

 Rail/Signal sounds to Analog Ground--there is a switch between those two so that is OK

red wire from black conn. is third rail--now where can I pick up gnd since I have no way

of doing so at the black conn.

JOHN G

You connect the RS/SS switch to analog ground.

The black connector in the above pics shows a red wire--just to be sure is this center

rail ? ---   is the open hole the gnd if it is I have no way to access it without

a new connector with both wires-----is  there another way to pick up the gnd.

for outside rail

JOHN G

Just connect it to frame ground from the wheels, that's where it comes from.

I give up--it seems I can't express my self to get what  need

Many thanks to all of you

JOHN G

I'm at a loss, you want to know where to connect the other side of the switch, and I told you.  If that's not what you need, what is it?

Solder a ground wire to the to pin on  underside of the motherboard thats next to the  red wire in the black connector. You can get them from Lionel.

Also I have have them with longer leads. P.N. 1-AL1002-2M

Bill

Boxcar bill:    (610-1106-303)

Thank you this is just what I need--the pin on the other side is to close to

try to solder a wire to---I'm placing an order Mod. Toy train

Thanks

Mr. gunrunnerjohn:

I'm sorry I wasn't clear in my needs

thanks