Rattle Can Paint Problem

I drop my rattle cans in a bucket of HOT water for 3-4 minutes before I paint. I also pull off the nozzle and soak it in paint thinner for a few minutes.

 

Then shake the can for 2-3 minutes and try 'er out on a cardboard box. I just had a can sputter out silly string....then ...out came the paint!   

 

 

try it....can't hurt! Tom in PGH

I would check for a defective or clogged nozzle. Once in a while you will get a bum nozzle on a can that is otherwise fine. Easiest way is just to pull a nozzle off a can that you know works. I had this happen to me on a brand new can of Krylon I bought at Ace a couple months ago - shook it up, pushed the button and nothing. Grabbed a nozzle off another can and it was fine. 

Scott, I just had this same thing happen to me a couple days ago, with three cans of Krylon I had bought months ago but had not used at all. When I went to paint w/ them, they were so dead, I thought they were empty, and that I had been cheated.

 

After some nominal shaking, until I heard the rattle, I pressed the nozzles, and nothing happened. Next, I turned and removed the nozzles; still nothing. Dead, not even a hiss. Then, I decided I had been lazy by not shaking the cans enough, so I more vigorously shook them and for a while. Next, I turned them (each one, separately, of course) upside down, like the way you are supposed to do when finished spray-painting something, and voila ! Victory! My conclusion was I had not shaken them enough, thinking that once I had heard the rattle I was ready for painting. Apparently, I was wrong. So, now I shake them aplenty.

 

Since this proceedure worked for the coincidence of three seemingly dead new cans, purchased at the same time and venue, I figure my diagnosis and solution was legitimate. Also, I was reminded of one occasion when I had purchased such a can at a paint store and the counterman took the new can and put it into the shake-up machine for some minutes - the first time I had ever seen that done. Of course, I could try to paint tomorrow and find I am wrong about the necessity of needing to shake them more thoroughly....I'll let you know.

Frank

You are usually supposed to shake for a minute after you hear the rattle.

Yep, sounds like a clogged nozzle and not enough shaking...

Get a box of medical examination gloves. Worth every penny to keep your hands clean.

I'd actually use the Nitrile disposable gloves for solvent protection.

Alan

I use Floquill in a rattle can pretty much exclusively and at least the last six cans I have opened (at $6.39 each) had acted the same way. I take a nozzle from a can that works and put it on the new can and it works fine.

 

Not the ideal solution, but the nozzles have been bad on this product for a long time.

I am finding problems with the precharge that is given these cans.  The gas that is used is different (I have no idea what it is, but it is not the same as back in the day).

 

I have a buddy who re- charges these things with compressed air.  Problem is, with paint, the O2 Might cause the paint to start its drying process in the can.

 

The real solution is an air brush - but sometimes I am in a hurry and a can of Krylon will do it.

I did not try changing spray heads with one that worked because I never could find a Floquil nozzle that works . . . 

 

I bought a three can set of Floquil yellow at an LHS here in NC earlier this year.  No telling how long it had been on the shelf, but I think a long time.  

 

Anyway, when I went to use a can, I treated the first can like most spray cans I use: it was at a good room temperature (75 deg) so I did not heat it, just shook normally and tried it.  It would not do anything.   I substitued a spray head from another can - it still did nothing, so I pitched it.

 

The second can I treated like cans I've had on the shelf in my workshop a long time (several years) - set it in hot water for ten minutes, then shook the life out of it: and I got a string of goo and bad sputter out of it at first.  I stopped, soaked the spray head in paint thinner for an hour, and tried again (going through the the whole evolution again - heat in hot water, shake rattle and roll for quite some time, try to spray).  That time I got so-so results - the second can would spray but it splattered more than most.  I think the paint was just too thick but regardless, I pitched it too.

 

I suppose I could have tried finding a spray head from a non-Floquil can that would fit and work - I did not think of that - maybe it would work.

 

Regardless, I think if I used Floquil spray again i will only use it if and when using an airbrush.  And frankly I much prefer to use rattle cans so my own option will be to find another brand, good as I know Floquil paint itself is . . . 

Well, I just got home and figured I'd give some of these ideas a whirl. Didn't have enough daylight to try out the hot water idea, but I did try a proven nozzle, and a lot of shaking. I got mixed results. The can of tuscan is a dud. I tried a new nozzle, lots of shaking, etc. but it just gave me dribbles. I can definitely press my finger into the side of the can without much effort. 

 

The other can, of boxcar red, after a new nozzle and a decent amount of shaking did give me a spray. I shook a little more, and it got better. I went ahead and sprayed the car, so we'll see. 

 

One would think with the amount Testor's charges for a 3 oz. can of Floquil paint they'd put a decent nozzle on there. As much as I like their paint colors, I'm probably done with them after this. I've had good success with el cheapo Wal-Mart paint, some of the Krylon, and the Lowe's Valspar line. You get more paint, and nice results. 

 

Any of you have brands/colors you use0 for boxcars? 

 

Thanks again, all for your help. 

I too have been frustrated by some of the rattle cans lately. My solution was to start using a Preval spray system; Google it.. Hadn't used one in about 40 years when we used them to touch up small areas on cars we'd restored. But after never being able to get the art of air brushing mastered, and becoming frustrated with both the quality of rattle cans and the 70+ mile round trip drive to my local hobby shop for replacements, i became reacquainted with the Preval. They are readily available at True Value and Ace hardware stores and NAPA auto parts stores among other places. For paint, my preference is Scalecoat II paint which my local hobby shop orders from Walthers. At $3.99 for a 1 oz. bottle, i can afford to stock most popular colors (12 - 15 jars) as often i'm only painting one or two cars any given color.

jackson

 

CEO of the Not-So-Great-Eastern R.R.

          aka The Never Done Line

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJmTzIFKvys

Scott....try Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer # 51317 for your freight cars. You can give 'em a shot of dullcote to hide decal film afterwards. I suggest 2 light coats....allow a day to really dry out...then decal....dullcote the following day. don't rush!

 

 

I also like Krylon Flat Black # 51002.....works for me!   Tom in PGH

You get decals to go on flat paint?  Boy, could I use some tips on that.  Mine will not go on anything that is not perfectly glossy.  Well, they will go on, but I get this silvery look on the film adjacent to the colors.

 

I am starting to have problems with Krylon cans.  They are changing the nozzle design, and not charging them with enough gas.  Opinion.  I have no inside info.