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I am trying out my new DCS system on an oval of RealTrax that I have been moving out to my patio.  I do not have floor space indoors for even this O42 oval with 2 straights on each side.  I have been using GarGraves on my 'Ceiling Central RR', but wanted something down where I could see it for learning the DCS.  Therefore, I came up with the 'Patio Pacific RR' which is on flat concrete.  I had trouble with the RealTrax sections coming apart, so I bought a pack of RealTrax track clips.  Now all the pieces are firmly held together, and I see why they were pulling apart.  The oval is not level.  The pieces when snug are reversed banked if you will.  The inside of the oval is over 1/4 inch up in the air when the outside of the oval is flat on the patio.  I realize I should fasten the oval down to plywood with screws, but I wanted something lightweight that I can carry in and out.  Even if the sections were screwed down, wouldn't there be tension between the sections?  Also, since this track is made to lay out on carpet, it shouldn't be necessary to screw them down to get them to lay flat.  The track sections have been stored at room temperature.

 

Has anyone seen this before?  Does anyone know why or how they got this way?  I apologize for the poor photos.  The only digital camera I have is on my iPhone 4, and I took the photos after dark with the outdoor lights on.

Thank you.

2014-05-06 22.21.47

2014-05-06 22.21.53

2014-05-06 22.22.02

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Last edited by Mark Boyce
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I've never noticed that issue Mark and I'm kind of surprised because one would think it something that would be more prevalent here in Florida than up in your neck of the woods. What should we call that; a reverse super elevation?

It looks like you're using the older solid rail track? I wonder if you could reverse what ever is causing it by shimming the outside and weighing down the inside or temporarily screwing the oval down on plywood with the outside shimmed and letting it bake in the sun for a short time?

My regards buddy it's got to be a bit aggravating to have complications laying down a simple test track

 

Originally Posted by Rail Reading:

That can't be correct.

 

Did you check all 12 of the curves to make sure they are  O-42?

Yes they are, that was my first thought too.  I have a circle of O-31, so I thought I had gotten one mixed in.  Not so.  I bought them all at the same time, so they should have been from the same lot, but that shouldn't matter.  Thank you for your suggestion.

Originally Posted by Matthew B.:

I've never noticed that issue Mark and I'm kind of surprised because one would think it something that would be more prevalent here in Florida than up in your neck of the woods. What should we call that; a reverse super elevation?

It looks like you're using the older solid rail track? I wonder if you could reverse what ever is causing it by shimming the outside and weighing down the inside or temporarily screwing the oval down on plywood with the outside shimmed and letting it bake in the sun for a short time?

My regards buddy it's got to be a bit aggravating to have complications laying down a simple test track

 

Matthew,

Your thoughts make good sense.  I am going to inspect the track further to see if I can come up with anything that may be causing it.  I like the idea of baking in the sun, although I may have to wait until June for that here in Western Pennsylvania.  It is thunder storming right now, and I just realized I forgot to take the track inside last night. Oops.  I may be adding to my woes. 

 

Thank you.

Last edited by Mark Boyce

I've had track that does that and sometimes it is caused by track bind.  You probably already did so, but make sure the straights are indeed true.  Also, try swapping curves from the other end to see if the problem duplicates itself.  I have seen some track that outwardly LOOKS correct but when compared to known good track, it's a little off.  

Originally Posted by Volphin:

I've had track that does that and sometimes it is caused by track bind.  You probably already did so, but make sure the straights are indeed true.  Also, try swapping curves from the other end to see if the problem duplicates itself.  I have seen some track that outwardly LOOKS correct but when compared to known good track, it's a little off.  

 

Originally Posted by Moonman:

It looks as if the straight areas are not the same. Check those with a tape measure. A piece or area too long makes sectional track do that. What Volphin said.

Yes, I can see that what both of you are saying would be true.  I will inspect when I get home.  If it is true, then MTHs uniformity of like parts in like orders leaves a bit to be desired.

I have had a lot of RealTrak do this, if you take the track apart and view were the rails end you will typically notice that the rail to the left extends  beyond the plastic base and this causes the track to bind. I take a cut off wheel in a Dremel tool and grind the end of the rail flush with the plastic base, this will allow the track to lay down.

Originally Posted by scottramsam:

I have had a lot of RealTrak do this, if you take the track apart and view were the rails end you will typically notice that the rail to the left extends  beyond the plastic base and this causes the track to bind. I take a cut off wheel in a Dremel tool and grind the end of the rail flush with the plastic base, this will allow the track to lay down.

This is something I did notice that rail ends were touching.  From my long time experience with HO track, I know we wanted to have a bit of a gap between rail ends for seasonal changes in the rail's length.  If you butted them against each other, then the rail expanded, it could actually drive the track slightly out of gauge.  More of a concern with smaller, lighter, trains.  Thank you.

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