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I have two, one large, which is actually a DeWalt cordless drill.   The other is a small Kobalt.  It is handy to have two when you are laying Gargraves Track.  I use the DeWalt to drill the counter-sink hole and the small Kobalt to drive the screw.  That way you're not always changing bits.  Both have exceptional batteries that last a long time on a charge.

Dennis

Last edited by Dennis

 I buy nothing but Milwaukee 12v. I work as a mechanic and bought their nut driver years ago. I can't describe how much abuse it got over the years. It's been dropped off ladders. Used as a ratchet when a bolt won't free up. Still works like new. One battery did give out though. It's lightweight. Drills self drilling sheet metal screws. Maybe not as well as the more powerful options out there. But the size and weight makes it more user friendly. When it came time to upgrade my home tools. I bought their drill, another driver, recently a small vacumn and an LED light. I think you can't go wrong with any of the newer tools out there. Many times it comes down to what's on sale. Everyone has their favorite. I've had pretty good luck with the Milwaukee brand.

Depends on intended use.  For heavy duty use, I have a Bosch 1/2".  For around trains, look for one that's very light weight, variable speed, and with a clutch.  Also, don't use any power screwdriver when reassembling cars and locos.  I got a very lightweight drill (I'll have to check the brand) which is excellent.

Dave_C posted:

 I buy nothing but Milwaukee 12v. I work as a mechanic and bought their nut driver years ago. I can't describe how much abuse it got over the years. It's been dropped off ladders. Used as a ratchet when a bolt won't free up. Still works like new. One battery did give out though. It's lightweight. Drills self drilling sheet metal screws. Maybe not as well as the more powerful options out there. But the size and weight makes it more user friendly. When it came time to upgrade my home tools. I bought their drill, another driver, recently a small vacumn and an LED light. I think you can't go wrong with any of the newer tools out there. Many times it comes down to what's on sale. Everyone has their favorite. I've had pretty good luck with the Milwaukee brand.

I've gone that route also. I look for new "tool only" offers by Milwaukee since I have the batteries. I recently got a blower which is quite adequate and easier than starting up the gas motor one.

My first cordless drill was a Milwaukee 12v. I had no problem driving 4"  screws into pressure treated. When the batteries gave out I got a Riobi 12v. I had them both apart. The Milwaukee has the equivilent of a large Pittman motor. The Riobi has a small Mabuchi type. Big difference in quality. I made an adapter for my Milwaukee so I can use a 12v motorcycle lead acid battery. Lasts forever and can be charged by any battery charger. It has a cord now but can easily be carried anywhere.

My new 18v Makita is a beast.

I have a Black and Decker cordless screwdriver at work. Its OK for removing sheet metal and small machine screws but useless for wood. 

Pete

 

I am with Hot Water on this, I've never owned one that I liked.  Besides the lack of torque and battery, they just aren't fast enough.  I probably have the same Snap-On ratcheting screw driver he describes.  I also use primarily a DeWalt 18v cordless drill for the majority of my work.  I know it sounds like over kill, but I got use to using a larger drill when I was building police and fire vehicles for a living  years ago.  With a bigger tool you need to be sure you get one that is balanced.  If it is not balanced it will wear you out quick.

Tony 

I like Dewalt 12 volt Max and 20 volt Max lithium Ion cordless tools. I know a number of professional auto mechanics that use them. I also see them on a lot of the home shows that my wife likes.
The batteries hold their charge while sitting, recharge fast, and last long enough for me.

I have the 12 volt drill, 12 volt impact driver (takes hex bits), 20 volt drill and 20 volt impact driver.
I consider the Impact driver to be a screw driver.
I also have a 20 volt cordless blower for the yard.

Here is a kit from Lowes.

They go on sale from time to time, and you might find a better deal elsewhere. I only provided the link so you could see the product. 

 

 

I think it would be helpful if George (the OP) tells us what he plans to use the driver for. I think we can all agree that a lot of the drills that are being recommended  here are very powerful and have great battery life, but to me, a cordless screwdriver is much smaller, fits easily in the hand and maneuvers well in tight quarters. I've got a bunch of drills, cordless and corded, but I rarely use them for the jobs that my cordless "screwdriver" is used for. My cordless drills are even overkill for things like driving Gargraves track screws into the plywood of my layout. The little Hitachi handles that like a champ. 

Roger

ROGER1 posted:

I think it would be helpful if George (the OP) tells us what he plans to use the driver for. I think we can all agree that a lot of the drills that are being recommended  here are very powerful and have great battery life, but to me, a cordless screwdriver is much smaller, fits easily in the hand and maneuvers well in tight quarters. I've got a bunch of drills, cordless and corded, but I rarely use them for the jobs that my cordless "screwdriver" is used for. My cordless drills are even overkill for things like driving Gargraves track screws into the plywood of my layout. The little Hitachi handles that like a champ. 

Roger

My thought was to use to drive (and unscrew) dry wall screws (1 5/8" - 3") into 1/2" plywood and 2"x2"s.

George

G3750 posted:
ROGER1 posted:

I think it would be helpful if George (the OP) tells us what he plans to use the driver for. I think we can all agree that a lot of the drills that are being recommended  here are very powerful and have great battery life, but to me, a cordless screwdriver is much smaller, fits easily in the hand and maneuvers well in tight quarters. I've got a bunch of drills, cordless and corded, but I rarely use them for the jobs that my cordless "screwdriver" is used for. My cordless drills are even overkill for things like driving Gargraves track screws into the plywood of my layout. The little Hitachi handles that like a champ. 

Roger

My thought was to use to drive (and unscrew) dry wall screws (1 5/8" - 3") into 1/2" plywood and 2"x2"s.

George

So there will be a few opinions on this, you have already read many.  Here's mine:  If you plan to use this to drive 3" screws, a cordless screw driver is not what you want.  Driving fasteners that large will test even some larger drills, you, and the connection you can get between the driver and the fastener.  I've broken off the head of several #2 phillips bits in my DeWalt driving screws that large.

IMHO, you can never have too much power as long as you can vary it.  But that said, wheeling around an 18v or 20v tool is not for everyone.

Go to your local home store and try a few out.  That may help you make your decision.  

Tony

C W Burfle posted:

I like Dewalt 12 volt Max and 20 volt Max lithium Ion cordless tools.

I agree with C W here, I like the Dewalt 12 volt Max. Small, light weight, feels good in my hands and has plenty of power. I bought a kit with drill/driver, impact driver, 2 batteries and charger a few years ago and I liked it so well I bought another set a couple months later. They were both on sale at Home Depot. 2nd set was even less than the first one and I couldn't resist. I also got the flashlight that goes with the 12v sets. I have never tried the 20v versions, but the 12 volt sets I have have done everything I have needed them to do so far. I am sure the 20 volt sets would be fine too, but a little larger and heavier. I have looked at the Dewalt screw driver that GRJ posted, but with the ones I have I haven't really thought I needed one.

I would also recommend getting a hunk of bee's wax and coating your screws with it before driving them. This works very well and makes the screws drive much easier, especially if you don't drill a pilot hole. You can also use a bar of soap if you are not going to finish the wood, like for benchwork and things like that that will be unfinished. The soap could interfere with a nice finish if you are making something like furniture or cabinets or something like that.

When a customer bought a business' inventory I had to replace all of the MTH batteries, as well as traction tires and make sure all of the bulbs lit. I bought a Harbor Freight pistol grip electric screwdriver for $8. It lasted for four years of use, charged in less than an hour, and when the charger finally quit, I bought another, this one is even better, better power, quicker charge, and when it quits, toss it. This is a tool I use frequently at times, and then it will sit for a couple weeks without being charged, and works everytime. Didn't even break when I dropped it. 

If you are going cordless, I think you should make certain that the tool uses Lithium-ion batteries.
Th
I've owned a few tools with other technology batteries.
They don't hold a charge in storage. And they have a very finite life.
I've owned a few cordless drills with NiCad batteries. The batteries always seemed to need a charge when I wanted to use the tool, and the tool lacked the power to get the job done anyway.
Next season I am going to have to replace my weed wacker and my hedge trimmer because they have bad NiCad batteries. I will be purchasing Dewalt 20 volt max replacements. Then I will be able to use the same batteries in five different tools. They are: 1/2 inch drill, Impact driver (hex bits), yard blower, weed wacker, and hedge trimmer.
Dewalt makes quite a few other tools too.

Note that many Dewalt tools are available in standard and brushless models. The brushless models are supposed to be more efficient, giving even more battery life. But they are considerably more expensive.

Last edited by C W Burfle

For light use on trains and accessories, I agree with Train Doctor's comments above - go with cheap and disposable.

For building benchwork (as the OP mentioned), here are my thoughts regarding full-size drill-drivers:  1) find something that fits comfortably in your hand, 2) 12v probably won't cut it, but higher voltage batteries weigh and cost more, 3) consider the cost and availability of extra batteries, 4) consider the better brands - DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita; there's a reason why they cost more, 5) make sure it has a clutch.

If you're building a lot of benchwork, get at least 3 batteries; otherwise, you'll spend a lot of time waiting for them to charge.  Pre-drilling the holes will make the job easier and virtually eliminate the risk of splitting the wood.  (I set up two drivers, one with a drill bit and another with the driver bit.  Saves a lot of time.)

I've had good luck with DeWalt, Bosch, and Master Force (store brand at Menards).  

I use this one from Black & Decker.

61FhJd12NdL._SL1000_

It's small, has a lithium ion (LiOn) battery, charges in its cradle, and can work for hours on a single charge. It comes with a set of screw bits and a 1/8" drill bit. that stole on the charging cradle. It has an adjustable ratchet for sensitive work.

I use it for everything that I do in the train room, from working on engines to laying track to building benchwork and, it's never run out of charge.

It's available from Amazon at this link and is currently heavily discounted.

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Last edited by Barry Broskowitz

Mallard4468 brings up a good point. Having multiple tools sharing the same batteries makes building Benchwork much easier. Not changing bits really speeds up the process. One drill. One driver. 2 batteries with each and you will never run out of power. Finding a brand with a trim saw is a plus.

 I have to disagree about a 12v not being powerful enough.  I work on school busses. I routinely drill through the steel bumper using a 12v driver and a self drilling Phillips head. It works. Maybe not with the ease of an 18v. I will gladly sacrifice a little power. For lightweight. Especially when your under the layout doing something like installing Tortoise switch machines.

 

 

Maybe a bit off the original topic but when I purchased my DeWalt, I got it around the holidays and it was part of a set of 18v DeWalt tools.  I got a drill, saws all, grinder, jig saw, circular saw, right angle drill, 2 batteries, charger, tool bag and a flashlight.  The total cost was around $600 but for the number and quality of the tools, it was well worth the money.  I use every one of the tools but of course the drill gets the most use.

I thought I would mention this because the holidays are going to be upon us soon and it seems like every year I see some sort of tool set at Home Depot or Lowes on sale.  It might be worth the wait.

On the subject of battery type, my set came with NiCad batteries originally.  The set is around 15 years old and they still charge and work the tools, although not as well as when they were new.  I recently purchased a Lithium Ion replacement battery and charger.  The Lithium Ion battery is great.  It lasts longer than the new NiCad I purchased and it seems to charge faster (although I've never timed it).  It's even lighter.  If I were purchasing new tools, Lithium Ion batteries would be a requirement.

Tony

This is not a solution for the OP but for those with vintage 12V drills consider this. The drill is well over 20 years old. I had replaced the NiCad cells once (original battery packs were going for 3 figures). When the second set of cells died I went to this solution. Lead acid cells like the one shown and smaller can be had for under 35 bucks. The Ni Cads were removed from the battery pack which further lightens the drill. Its still portable and the battery lasts much longer than even Li Ion packs.

drill_mod

Pete

 

ps Like Barry's B&D solution too.

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Best one I ever had is the ryobi 4volt lithium unit from home depot.  The battery is also used in the electric scissors, voltmeter, flashlight, and a bunch of other stuff.  The flashlight is one of the brightest I ever saw.  The scissors are great for cutting through small gauge wire, cardboard as well as normal stuff like cloth and paper.  The batteries last a long time between charges.  Just make sure everything you buy comes with the battery included or in some combo.  It's cheaper that way.

C W Burfle posted:

On the subject of battery type, my set came with NiCad batteries originally.  The set is around 15 years old and they still charge and work the tools, although not as well as when they were new.

Wow!  What is your secret?

Yeah, really?  I had one a long time ago.  It essentially stopped charging and I got rid of it.  It was a Sears and only a few years old.  Worthless.

George

Barry Broskowitz posted:

I use this one from Black & Decker.

61FhJd12NdL._SL1000_

It's small, has a lithium ion (LiOn) battery, charges in its cradle, and can work for hours on a single charge. It comes with a set of screw bits and a 1/8" drill bit. that stole on the charging cradle. It has an adjustable ratchet for sensitive work.

I use it for everything that I do in the train room, from working on engines to laying track to building benchwork and, it's never run out of charge.

It's available from Amazon at this link and is currently heavily discounted.

I have the same screw driver and they can be found at Wal Mart. Mine is about 6 years old and still works fine. 

In my business I have used a lot of tools over the years.  I would never buy any Craftsman, Black and Decker or store brand battery tool again.

Ever since discovering the lifetime replacement warranty of Ridgid tools, the only tool I purchase is Ridgid.

Ridgid has replaced batteries free for a customer of mine for many years!  That is invaluable.

You give me a quality tool with free batteries and I will only buy your tools.

In the last few years many of the long standing quality battery tools have be absorbed by a low end mfg and have been dumbed down to the point of us buying just the tool COLORS.  

Much like free agency has us rooting for sports team laundry.

The intrinsic quality has been replaced with  availability and price point.

As for me,  anymore I will only buy  the printed warranty.  I am so finished with buying overpriced yellow batteries.

As far as size goes I find I want all of the sizes for different reasons.  Overhead under the layout 12v is fine.  Knocking out some big holes give me an 18 or 24 v.  Really big, give me 110v.

However I just confess this puppy  has me drooling:

Makita

Kind of makes me want to wolf down a big chocolate bar & go out and drill holes in anything that will stand still.

 

 

 

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Last edited by Tom Tee

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