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I had to reduce the size of my layout and now only have 2 fairly small individual loops, with a small yard (3 switches) on the inner loop. Therefore I have decided to go from the complete DCS system and Z4000 transformer, back to the Remote commander (1 on each loop) and feed both of them with Z1000 bricks.  I'm concerned the signal may not be that strong on the loop with the switches and sidings if I just do one lock on directly from the Remote Commander to the track. My plan is to hook the Z1000 directly to the Remote Commander box as per the instructions, and then run wires to a 12 port terminal block from the back of the Remote Commander box, and then multiple feeds from that to the track. Will this work like it did with the full DCS system, or does the Remote Commander have to be connected directly to the track? 

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The remote commander will only control an engine that has been factory reset to it's default address (this can only be done with full DCS system) which limits what can be run. I believe the infrared receivers will pick up signals from either remote, so you could be controlling both loops at the same time whether you want to or not. You are limiting access to the full functions of your engines with the Remote Commanders.

There is possibly more to add to the list, but all I can think of right now.

 

Not trying to tell you what to do here, just suggestions. It's your railroad and you should run it in what ever way makes you the happiest. Just sounded like you were giving up a lot you already had. Another idea would be to keep the full DCS, try the Remote commanders and see how you like it and go from there.    

I had the remote commander for quite a while when I first got into it. Honestly I didn't use that many more functions on the full DCS system than I did in the remote commander. I have already reset my engines and checked them on a test track with the remote commander to make sure the reset took. I know I have to separate the two control boxes or I'll be sending signals to both tracks at once. I can get quite a bit of money back for the other 2 items and buy a new locomotive or buildings/scenery to better fit the new smaller layout.

Well at least you know what you are getting into. If your wiring and Z-4000 worked with your DCS system, I don't see why it would not work with your new setup with the Z-1000's.

 

I only used a Remote commander for a very short time with an MTH set I got and the track included with it. I went the opposite way you are going here, within a just couple of weeks, after getting the initial set.

 

 

I hear where the OP is coming from. Right now I have a 5x10 layout running two separate loops. I have a Remote Commander for the one PS3 engine I have and it does everything I'd want a controller to do. My other loop is conventional since I have a PS1 locomotive. I want a layout my kids can run and the current full featured DCS remote is overkill. Eventually I'll upgrade my PS1 locomotive to PS3 and there is also a couple of Williams engines I'm looking that could also be upgraded to PS3. I'm debating between a second Remote Commander or waiting for the MTH wifi module and iOS app. Hoping the MTH wifi module won't be as insanely expensive as the Lionel module. Since you already have a TIU that could be a perfect solution. MTH said they will be offering an Android app which means even if you don't have a smartphone you could pick one up dirt cheap to use as a dedicafed controller (cheap Android phones/tablets are pretty abundant, not so much for iPhones)

 

I've played with the Lionel LCS app and it's pretty nice. About the simplest way you can run a train - yes, simpler than conventional. It's interesting that trains started out as toys for children but O gauge trains are now so ghastly expensive and complex that they're out of reach for most younger kids. 

I hooked the 2 loops up last night, with a Remote Commander running each loop. It's fairly simple to avoid the IR signal being picked up by both receivers by simply placing them on opposite sides of the table. I placed them on the side of the table not on the top. The remote for the most part has to be pointed directly at the receiver for it to accept the command. As long as the 2 receivers aren't in line with one another I don't see where it would be a problem.

You can partially block reflections (when controlling the other base unit) by adding a piece of cardboard or whatever around the back of the red lens on the base receiver.  Note that the red lens is symmetrical.  On a previous MTH infrared lock-on, the lens was not symmetrical as shown in the photo.  That lens could be rotated to face the preferred direction to get better line of sight.  I believe the tendency is to aim the remote at the engine (rather than at the base) which the current design might handle better.  As an aside, there was another thread about making it less directional and the "solution" was to add infrared LED(s) in the handheld to send the beam in multiple directions.

 

50-1013

 

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