Newbie here: Can the electronics be removed from a new MTH Proto Sound loco/tender?? I just want to turn the power on, and the train moves at whatever previous voltage the transformer was set to. Finding new locos from the pre-ProtoSounds days is getting difficult.
Please don't ask why.
Video of my outdoor Christmas display. https://youtu.be/S9N7-aBjoP4
Cameo in VA
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Three rail O Transformers output 0-18V AC to the track. MTH locomotives all have DC motors. DC motors will NOT run on AC. You can indeed remove all the electronics from any PS unit as long as you then install a Bridge Rectifier in the engine to convert the AC voltage being supplied by the transformer to the DC voltage the motor(s) require. The only possible hitch is that you will have an engine that only travels in one direction (missing the familiar Forward-Neutral-Back-Neutral). If you need both directions you will have to put an electronic reversing unit back in the engine.
Williams used to offer a basic electronic reverse board that you can easily connect from the pickups and the motor. Maybe 50$ or so.
Dallee makes an electronic reverse unit - $49.95.
A 99 cent Bridge Rectifier will do the trick, power up at the same voltage you had set previously and you are back up and running consistently. If you need one my contact info is in my profile. I would be glad to send you one with a simple easy to understand schematic.
Thanks all, I understand the 0-18vdc. I use a simple power supply that plugs into 115ac and converts to 0-18vdc. I do not use reverse, just one forward steady speed.
So I guess it can be done, removing the electronics from the tender, no cable to loco. Just have the vdc go direct to the motor?? Correct?? I assume the loco has electrical pickups at its wheels??
Correct. If you wire the motor direct to pickups then it is DC (not AC) -> track -> loco pickups -> motor.
Brendan
I looked at this issue when I was considering stripping out the PS1 system in my MTH K4. I never put it to the test, but concluded that if the rectifier and reverser was in the tender, and the tether consisted of wires from the pickups, and to the motor, then a simple plug would suffice, by which the pickups were directly connected to the motor.
The loco could then be run on a direct dc supply, and reversed by reversing the polarity at the transformer. Hornby Dublo 3-Rail works in this fashion.
Of course, this means that anything else in the loco, connected to the pickups, also receives traction current, and it doesn’t work for diesel locos with no external tether.
Again, thanks. And I realized I did not put the correct YouTube link that shows the close-up of the Train Station. https://youtu.be/cFW2drcduzw
Cameo in VA
@Cameo07 posted:Thanks all, I understand the 0-18vdc. I use a simple power supply that plugs into 115ac and converts to 0-18vdc. I do not use reverse, just one forward steady speed.
So I guess it can be done, removing the electronics from the tender, no cable to loco. Just have the vdc go direct to the motor?? Correct?? I assume the loco has electrical pickups at its wheels??
Since you use a DC power supply all you need do is remove all the electronics and wire the motor(s) directly to ground and pickup rollers. No rectifier needed. The direction of travel will be determined by which way you wire the motor leads to ground (frame) and pickup rollers.
Before you remove all the electronics, You should check out the voltages needed for all the engine lighting. Most of the lighting is low voltage supplied supplied by the electronics. then you can power the engine lights with the proper voltage in stead of burning them out with the wrong voltage.
As an experiment. Try running the engine on DC with the current electronics. I assume this is a proto1 engine. Use a AC transformer and lock the engine in forward. then try the engine on DC. It should go forward when you apply the DC power. If it fails you might destroy the proto1 boards but you are not going to use them anyhow.
Impressive Christmas display BTW! Very nice!
@Cameo07: Good advice above. And if you don't have plans for the electronic boards and the tether wire that connect them, I'll take them off your hands. My email address is in my profile.
Should be a lot of them. There was always talk about the "Three clangs of death" I believe these boards could be repaired. Double stack boards were for sound. Speakers were usually 16 ohm. ?? QSI still making O scale drive boards?? 
Pictured boards are gone, someone wanted them.
Keep it simple, If you're only operating in forward, Install a 3mm warm white LED 12v bulb to the motor leads for headlight, you can add red or green ones as well for markers etc. They come on at around 3 volts and your motor is probably never going to receive more than 12 volts.
I have an MTH Gallopping Goose which only gives 3 clangs. Does that mean that it is ready to trash???
@Metro posted:I have an MTH Gallopping Goose which only gives 3 clangs. Does that mean that it is ready to trash???
Is this what the "make PS" chip is for?
Yes, the three clanks of death is the specific reason for the make PS chip, it's the only thing it fixes. As for the trash, there's a convenient trash can at my place if you need a place to dispose of it. 
Well, your response seems to be a rather selfish response. Where I can purchase a make ps chip would be more appropriate and at what cost. Thanks Metro
Gosh Metro, don't you know a joke when you see one??? 
Sorry I responded.
Sheesh. I think John was funny in that you suggested it's trash. He jokes like this all the time and we laugh. We all try and keep it light.
He was just saying it's more than trash just because of a bad board chip.
I hope you re-read his answers and consider he's lending his help for free. He is a tech and could easily charge you for the answer!
Hey thank you for the post. I am new to this forum and John actually answered my question. I am 75 and sometimes forget things. I went back through my stuff, and I had in fact purchased the reset chip about 4 years ago. I actually found it and the Gallopping Goose is running again. Thanks to John. I am truly sorry if I offended him. Thanks John for waking up my old brain. I was actually almost ready to sell it as a parts item. I really love the piece and still have two that I run all the time.
Getting back to original subject....I did surgery on a 4-6-0 (with some Proto sound gizmo) that local shop was unable to get going, runs great!! Thnx all.
Plse do keep things lighthearted, it a good thing.
Again, if you want to see what I do for Christmas display.... https://youtu.be/cFW2drcduzw
I tried to post this video here , under the Video heading, but unable. Any clues??
@Cameo07 posted:Getting back to original subject....I did surgery on a 4-6-0 (with some Proto sound gizmo) that local shop was unable to get going, runs great!! Thnx all.
Plse do keep things lighthearted, it a good thing.
Again, if you want to see what I do for Christmas display.... https://youtu.be/cFW2drcduzw
I tried to post this video here , under the Video heading, but unable. Any clues??
Too large file > 100meg ?
Post like this... You have to hit the movie film icon with the play triangle.
Thnx Ron, you the man!! Enjoy the video all.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
