Repainting a Newer Lionel Extended Vision Caboose

I cannot answer your question directly, but I have recently repainted a different Lionel caboose (CA-1 product number 2226230) alongside an identical MTH caboose.  After the projects were finished, I wrote a treatise about my experience because it will serve as an introduction to anyone undertaking a similar project.  Included are pics of the actual car and the model.

A Tale of Two Cabooses

To recreate this caboose I bought a Lionel CA-1, and by accident bought another CA-1 by MTH. To my surprise the two models were identical with the one exception being the Lionel had an on/off switch for lighting. The underframes were stamped for their respective manufacturers but were otherwise completely the same. Both models needed to be repainted, so the first step was to disassemble them and remove the window glazing. This is where the trouble began. The MTH windows came loose intact with difficulty. The Lionel windows were near impossible to remove, and a lot of damage occurred in the process. If anyone wants to undertake a project such as this, they will need to figure out a way to mask the windows from the outside, and this will not be easy since the end windows have bars across them. If there is another method for releasing stubborn windows, I would like to hear about it. When the time came to reinstall the windows it was like putting a jigsaw puzzle together. Glass slide covers were used to replace the destroyed windows, and the windows which could not be removed at all were simply painted over. I am not too proud of that situation.
Both models were lit up inside like Las Vegas, and I found this amusing since the real CA-1's probably had oil lamps for the conductor's desk. One model drew so much current it sparked at the wheelsets when moved. All of it was removed. The markers were a globe type which did not fit the era and had to be removed, as well. The new markers I installed were from Tomar and are powered with the excellent flickerless modules from Hennings Trains (GRJ). A single white light from Evans Designs was placed inside near the end where the conductor's desk would be located. The Evans product is self-contained with a rectifier suited to transformer power, so it can be connected directly to the pickups.

Rob, how did you do the custom decals for your cabooses?

@Rob Leese posted:

I cannot answer your question directly, but I have recently repainted a different Lionel caboose (CA-1 product number 2226230) alongside an identical MTH caboose.  After the projects were finished, I wrote a treatise about my experience because it will serve as an introduction to anyone undertaking a similar project.  Included are pics of the actual car and the model.

Funny. Even as we speak (or I type), one of the MTH versions sits on my workbench getting new decals. No new paint (I removed the old and touched up the paint) .  I was surprised that there was no on/off for the lighting, which, I suppose, I will turn off by way of removing the body and disconnecting. I hate to drag those center-rail pickups around, so....

But - to the original poster's question: masking and using sanding film to remove/take down lettering and stripes,  can save a lot of effort when "re-painting" (often, only "re-lettering" is what is needed) a car or loco, if masking will indeed cover/reveal those areas of change. It can't always do the job, but when it can, it really makes sense. It is tedious, but so is disassembly of a delicate or complicated piece, with the almost certain breakage of something. Factory paint can also act as a good primer coat.

@breezinup posted:

Rob, how did you do the custom decals for your cabooses?

K4 has a line of QA&P decals for locos, freight cars, and waycars.  Protocraft also does QA&P decals. I have used both, and they are both excellent products.

Thanks for the information. I've been intrigued by the Quanah Acme & Western, which crossed Hwy 287 (which runs between Dallas/Ft. Worth and Amarillo) at Quanah, as well as the Fort Worth & Denver, crossing 287 at Estelline, a bit further north, towards Amarillo. They seem to have run roughly parallel routes in that area. The FW&D right of way is now a hike & bike trail, partly passing through Caprock Canyon State Park, part of which I've cycled. Very nice - lots of trestles and even a tunnel to go through. Clarity Tunnel, one of only three ever constructed in Texas. This line also featured Doodlebugs to transport passenger traffic. The picture in the article below shows a Burlington F unit emerging from the tunnel.

After moving to Dallas from Denver back in the late 70's, during road trips to Denver, I'd see the track for these lines still in place crossing 287. There was a small station for the FW&D just off 287 at Estelline, I think. The QA&W depot at Quanah is really something, surprising given the relatively small size of the town. The depot is a beautiful Spanish Colonial structure, fortunately preserved and now a railroad museum. I'm sure you know all this, but just repeating it in case anyone else is interested. What's the background in your interest, Rob?

https://www.historic-structure...ah/train_station.php

https://texastimetravel.com/di...ailway-depot-museum/

https://www.lubbockonline.com/...he-bats/69842644007/

@breezinup

I was marked up on the Frisco board in OKC as a brakeman/switchman when the QA&P abandonment began circa 1981.  There was only one 5 man crew left on the QA&P, and they had to split up: one 3 man crew to operate the rail train and 2 left to work the yard in Quanah.  I was issued a QA&P employee number and filled the vacancy on the yard crew.  Plus, I was born in Quanah, and my foot has been on every square inch of that region. 

Sorry I strayed off-topic.

Thanks to all who replied. I chose an Atlas O ( wide vision) caboose-it is closer in details/style to the pictures of the real one I will be copying ( Central Vermont) and Atlas has nice parts diagrams on line which seem to suggest relative ease in disassembling for painting. I'll let you know how it works out.  P Hering

Looking forward to seeing how this one comes out. I’m still hoping Mth does this CV paint job on their next run. If not, I’ll repaint one.

If you need decals, highball custom graphics is the best. He has several New England RR decals on his site already but can make anything you want. A rule of thumb, the more detailed the model, the harder it will be to repaint. More detail parts to remove, paint separately, reapply, decal over, etc. But they also turn out better if done well. Can’t wait to see it.