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I am trying to replace the traction tires on LIONEL #6-11323 W & L E  2-6-6-2 Mallet #8002.

 

Having great difficulty getting to the front hex screw to remove the rods. Have any of you had experience doing this little project? If so, this old man could sure use your help.

 

Thanks in advance and I hope that you all will have a great week.

Last edited by Roger Wasson
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Originally Posted by Big Jim:

Roger,

Were you able to solve your problem without twisting off the screw?

That is really not our problem. I can get the screw loose and backed out, but it is so long that it is hitting the wheel rod. I really need to know how to get this rod out of the way so that we can remove the screw and install the tire.

 

I am sorry that did not state this earlier, the main problem is the screw is hitting the wheel connecting rod. How do I get this rod out of the way??

 

See picture below:

 

 

 

photo

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Originally Posted by Big Jim:

I don't have one of these, so, bear with me. I can see what you are talking about in the photo.

Is there not enough clearance when the driver is rotated to where the screw is at bottom dead center?

Yes your are correct....there is not enough clearance when the driver is rotated to where the screw is at the bottom dead center. It still hits the rod. I need to know how to remove the rod so that the screw comes out.

I have the Nickel Plate version of that locomotive, and I had the same problem where I had to replace a traction tire on the front engine unit.  What I did was to remove all of the crank pin screws, and then removed all of the rods (main and side) on both sides.  This way I could rotate the front driver so I could get the new tire properly mounted.  It was a lot of work, but I was able to get the job done without going crazy.

 

Good Luck!

 

Stuart

 

I have this exact same problem on my Penn Vision Line CC2 0-8-8-0. Because of the connecting rod, the wrench that came with the locomotive doesn't fit over the screw. I used an ignition wrench and loosened the screw but then it hit the connecting rod and I couldn't get it out.  I ended up taking off the brake shoe carriage (6 screws) and then I took out the drive wheel assembly (2 tiny screws). This dropped the wheel enough so I could take the connecting rod off and replaced the tire. What a pain!! After I got it all back together, I noticed the engine making a little grinding sound when it moved in the forward direction. In reverse it is dead silent (at any speed). The grinding seems to be louder when navigating a curve.

Originally Posted by Roger Wasson:
Originally Posted by Big Jim:

Roger,

Were you able to solve your problem without twisting off the screw?

That is really not our problem. I can get the screw loose and backed out, but it is so long that it is hitting the wheel rod. I really need to know how to get this rod out of the way so that we can remove the screw and install the tire.

 

I am sorry that did not state this earlier, the main problem is the screw is hitting the wheel connecting rod. How do I get this rod out of the way??

 

See picture below:

 

 

 

photo

Not a fan of tires, and placing the tires on the inaccessable front drivers is really poor, poor engineering.

Yep the Y6B is a Pain in the &*#* too. I had to remove the under frame carriage, and of course these are sprung drivers, and you guessed it.... bearings and springs everywhere! It was like a whole pack of these going off in your face!

 

 

 

 

51xReeDm6GL._SY300_

 

 

It took some time and some patience but I finally got it back together.

 

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Images (1)
  • 51xReeDm6GL._SY300_

I'll second the method Dennis described. First learned about it after Dennis posted this about four years ago. Works great. The key is to let the silicone cure in between applications. My MTH Hudson has pulled 11 passenger cars for about three years with zero problems. Six dollars for silicone versus over twenty for a small tube of Frog Snot.

Try it, you won't be sorry.

 

Bob

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