Finally I got some water into the creek. This is freshly poured, will need a second layer.
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Sarah - it really looks so wet! Nice work.
Nice job, very realistic .
you done good. I like it a lot.
Wow Sarah, that is really great. It almost looks like you have real water laying there. Sort of reminds me of a spot close from where I live where there are railroad tracks down away, from a creek that has a weird automobile bridge. It is partially a one lane bridge that has a pullover spot on part of it where you can view the shallow part of the creek. The tracks are higher up on the one side which the road is over then comes down to the creek bridge. What did you use for water anyway? That is what product I mean?
@Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:Wow Sarah, that is really great. It almost looks like you have real water laying there. Sort of reminds me of a spot close from where I live where there are railroad tracks down away, from a creek that has a weird automobile bridge. It is partially a one lane bridge that has a pullover spot on part of it where you can view the shallow part of the creek. The tracks are higher up on the one side which the road is over then comes down to the creek bridge. What did you use for water anyway? That is what product I mean?
Thanks Dave, I use a professional resin product made in Germany called Feycopox 581. It's furniture quality causing zero bubbles. Quite pricy bit I pit so many hours into the module that I can't take risks here.
That looks superb. I've used "Magic Water" - another two part epoxy product. It dries very clear/transparent and will take a coloring tint (I actually use acrylic paint but am not looking for deep color). I think that the only issue with epoxy is that it takes a long time to set properly and will "creep" along edges and into any space in the base material. However I have learned to deal with that although I am not making scenes like yours.
@Hancock52 posted:That looks superb. I've used "Magic Water" - another two part epoxy product. It dries very clear/transparent and will take a coloring tint (I actually use acrylic paint but am not looking for deep color). I think that the only issue with epoxy is that it takes a long time to set properly and will "creep" along edges and into any space in the base material. However I have learned to deal with that although I am not making scenes like yours.
Thanks! To seal the containment is actually the biggest issue when working with resin. We do furniture from time to time and we really had bad surprises quite often until much more effort has been taken to seal everything properly.
Thanks for the explanation and the image. This is not a patch on your effort but the same basic issue on a far smaller scale. I once modeled a full Pullman-Standard, streamliner era, diner kitchen (acres of stainless steel) and put in a "sink" visible through one of the windows. The resin was slightly tinted green to resemble dishwater . . . I had to seal the thing inside and out with a coating of acrylic modeling compound because otherwise the Magic Water seeped through any even slight opening and made a mess of the kitchen floor! As I had not mastered how to create "suds" it was less realistic than I hoped but there is a Vallejo paint that will produce the effect.
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Nicely done, Sarah!
@Hancock52 posted:Thanks for the explanation and the image. This is not a patch on your effort but the same basic issue on a far smaller scale. I once modeled a full Pullman-Standard, streamliner era, diner kitchen (acres of stainless steel) and put in a "sink" visible through one of the windows. The resin was slightly tinted green to resemble dishwater . . . I had to seal the thing inside and out with a coating of acrylic modeling compound because otherwise the Magic Water seeped through any even slight opening and made a mess of the kitchen floor! As I had not mastered how to create "suds" it was less realistic than I hoped but there is a Vallejo paint that will produce the effect.
Wow! Look at that!!
Sarah did you build the bents for the trestle or buy them pre built? They are very realistic!
Sarah, Very sharp looking water very nice job!
Exceptional craftsmanship.
Looks like Stationary Water. You succeeded.
However, moving water is a lot more interesting.
Guys,
Please give Sarah a break as she hasn't added the second layer yet! This is a work in progress that she is sharing with us.
I know that pouring resin for water is tricky…..Sarah’s came out great! JohnA
@Bobby Cox posted:Sarah did you build the bents for the trestle or buy them pre built? They are very realistic!Thank you! They are completely scratch built. I made a jig to assemble all these in a row.
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@Sarah posted:
Now that is some building there Sarah. The bolts, are they just plastic glued on or something else entirely? They look great. I figured I'd ask as someone is bound to anyway.
@Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:Now that is some building there Sarah. The bolts, are they just plastic glued on or something else entirely? They look great. I figured I'd ask as someone is bound to anyway.
Hi Dave,
I use .060 x .060 styrene strips and cut the old fashioned nuts with "the chopper". Corresponding washers are being punched with the punch and dye tool by RP Toolz. Very handy tool that I expanded with some bigger diameter holes where I simply use a worn drill bit as the punch.
I made bigger nuts and bolts than would found in reality, they are a bit over sized. I think they look better on the model but that's just my personal taste. See pics of the original rivet size in my earlier post. I like the bigger ones better, they make the model more physical in appearance.
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Hey, great idea on the jig for building the bents! I will try.
@Sarah posted:Hi Dave,
I use .060 x .060 styrene strips and cut the old fashioned nuts with "the chopper". Corresponding washers are being punched with the punch and dye tool by RP Toolz. Very handy tool that I expanded with some bigger diameter holes where I simply use a worn drill bit as the punch.
I made bigger nuts and bolts than would found in reality, they are a bit over sized. I think they look better on the model but that's just my personal taste. See pics of the original rivet size in my earlier post. I like the bigger ones better, they make the model more physical in appearance.
Sarah, that is genius. I like the accents of having them on there, they do look great. Also, remember the golden rule of your railroad(and anything you build at all), it is your railroad, your interpretation of what you like, so it can't be wrong.
I've seen a bunch of posts where other people say to a poster, "why did you do that, they didn't have those?" Replies usually come back with, "well, I know, but it's my railroad, so they do." Main thing, enjoy what you do, that's the ticket. Thanks for the insight. 🐻👍😃
I skipped this post at least 3 times?
I know it would be great.
I just don't like being reminded how far behind I am working on stuff. Seeing the pros do great work can be great. It also gets me upset about the time I need to spend (and money) that I don't have.
I just wasted hours yesterday ripping out a track feed wire that I thought was bad and maybe eaten by some varmit? After doing it I discovered the end connection right at the track had failed! It got moved and started working.
So not to drag this down anymore, this post will self delete in 5,4,3,2,1......
Carry on, great work again! 
So, Sarah ,
When are you going to start giving lessons? 
Maybe tutorial or two . . .
Great stuff! Show us more of it.
- Mike
Great work, Sarah! 
Brilliant work on this!
Wow! Extra wow for the moving water sample. Those trestle bents are something else, too.
I'd really like to see that moving water scene when the resin has cured. Never had much luck myself with trying to texture resin water but admittedly I’ve only tried in very small scenes - the biggest being an HO scale swimming pool. I suppose it’s a matter of getting the right material.
Moving water is not easy from some of the things I've seen. Hopefully when that dries it will look great.
Sarah, great job so far. Your first layer looks like a clear mountain stream. I like the whitewater sample. If it does dry clear you may have to add some color to the tops of the ripples to get the effect you're looking for. Thatcould all depend on how swiftly your creek is moving and how treacherous your whitewater is.
@Sarah posted:Thank you my friends! You really keep me going! Since this is my first time doing water I try stuff out at a test piece. That's Extra Heavy Gel Medium by Amsterdam to create the white water effects. This should dry to full transparency.
Hello Sarah,
Any update on this project you can share with us?
I'd like to see the finished creek bed.
Thanks!
Sarah, A1 --Water looks as real as it can get. Chet
Dear Modelers,
we are slowly getting there. I've made an other test piece to practice white water. This wave is built up and "fully 3D", so to speak. Although I did not care too much about color matching, a quick mock-up against the photo backdrop already gives you the idea. I'm having so much fun with this, next step is to model the white water effects on the actual module. I hope to model the current of the water in a convincing way.
Sarah
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Now that is the start/and continuation of white water. Great modeling.
The water has a very convincing depth to it. Great modeling! JohnA
@Sarah posted:Finally I got some water into the creek. This is freshly poured, will need a second layer.
That looks great. Do you let it dry between each pour. How long does it take if so? Yours look huge. Thanks,Jim
@Jim Van Every posted:That looks great. Do you let it dry between each pour. How long does it take if so? Yours look huge. Thanks,Jim
Thanks! No, I would not let it dry. K kept pouring and mixing to the end. You could maybe wait in between the layers but I see no benefit in it EXCEPT that you minimize the mess should you have a leak. This is maybe the biggest issue you can run into.
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@Sarah posted:Dear Modelers,
we are slowly getting there. I've made an other test piece to practice white water. This wave is built up and "fully 3D", so to speak. Although I did not care too much about color matching, a quick mock-up against the photo backdrop already gives you the idea. I'm having so much fun with this, next step is to model the white water effects on the actual module. I hope to model the current of the water in a convincing way.
Sarah
Sarah while you may not be happy with the color match your model is very realistic and looks like silt laden water like maybe after a rain storm.
