When you guys put the newer stud rectifiers in you ZW's, do you leave in or remove the white resistance wire. This is using part 1N1190AR. I haven't found a clear answer for this yet and what harm would be done if left in, if any...
Marty
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When you guys put the newer stud rectifiers in you ZW's, do you leave in or remove the white resistance wire. This is using part 1N1190AR. I haven't found a clear answer for this yet and what harm would be done if left in, if any...
Marty
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Leave them be - all the rumors around removing the resistance wires have to do with specialized zener diode upgrades which is much less common than the 1N1190AR standard (although reverse polarity) diodes.
See the discussion, diagrams and whatnot here: https://ogrforum.com/...71#77875232795593471
I did one a long time with the Zener diodes, they worked great. It did indeed also eliminate the resistance wire. I looked around, but I can't find the documentation that I had for that mod, or I'd recommend it.
Install a 1N3311B 50W 12V Zener diode as a direct substitute for the original rectifier disk. Then just cut off and discard that nasty asbestos coated resistance wire. Done.
You can also get really fancy and rig a second one of these diodes backwards to get a bell button. You can install a new push button that is used to fire a relay that instantly diverts track power through the diode with 5V boost from the compensating winding. Very solid, reliable bell on/off, without voltage drop.
What kind of diode is a NTE1517HC, are they okay to use???
Marty
@Martin Derouin, it is recommend by many to use the 1N1190AR diodes for the ZW upgrades. They drop in as previously explained with no need to remove the resistance wires. You previously indicated you acquired these diodes - are you having troubles with them?: https://ogrforum.com/...71#77875232795593471
I am unable to find any information on the part number NTE1517HC you provided - it appears to be an audio amplifier: http://www.nteinc.com/specs/15...1599/pdf/nte1517.pdf
I am sorry, I posted the wrong number, it is a NTE5817HC...
Marty
The NTE5817HC may work - http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1572228.pdf - it is of axial design and much more difficult to install than the 1N1190AR. The 1N1190AR is also a 40A diode vs the 10A of the NTE5817HC so a short circuit or other damaging occurrence may do it in much quicker.
A quick search shows no instances of anyone successfully using that diode for Lionel trains: https://www.google.com/search?q=Lionel+NTE5817HC
There are many successfully using the 1N1190AR diodes with Lionel trains: https://www.google.com/search?q=Lionel+1N1190AR
Plus, you stated earlier that you obtained the 1N1190AR diodes (https://ogrforum.com/...71#77875232795593471)Are you having troubles with them?
Well, last Thursday I picked up my Tranny and he said they were both burned out and he put new disk ones back in. I wasn't thrilled about that at all, just looing for a easier mod, but that doesn't look like it will happen, Sort of on the fence about putting in two more, if you know what I mean...
Marty
This is the first I've heard of a failure in an application like this where they were properly installed...
Yes they were, I think the guy was looking for a few bucks, he never showed me the parts and had already trashed them. I wouldn't recommend this guy to my worst enemy in the world, I had even given him a new whistle switch to use, I put different colored paint dots by each terminal, but I see no dots. I had already put two new resistance wires in it I got from Jeff Kane and He took them out. It is like I had the parts he needed...
Marty
I am curious about the use of forty amp diodes. What is the probability of a short occuring while having the whistle switch in the position that puts the full load through the diode? How much current would go through the diode when the resistor is in parallel?
In any case, would an instant trip breaker protect the diode anyway?
I guess there is no harm in using the larger size, just wondering
The 1N1190AR is a 40 amp diode, right now I am using a NTE5815 which is a 6 amp axle diode and the NTE5817HC is a 10amp axle diode. installing these is a piece of cake, loosen one screw on the bracket assembly, insert end of diode black end around screw and tighten back down. Solder about a 8 inch piece of wire on the silver end. attach the other end of wire to the contact from the disc rectifier. Works great on modern stuff and post war tenders. I will be doing mine in a few days, and will take some pics as I go along....
Marty
I took out the NTE5815 and installed the 1N1190AR now I have to reverse the wiring to the track ( common to center, hot to ground rail) to blow the whistle on the railsounds tender... What would be the cause of that issue???
Marty
Incorrect polarity or installation of the diode? I've ordered 1N1190AR diodes to be provided 1N1190A diodes.
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