Ross #50 Switchstand

Bill what switch motors are you planning to turn them with or are you putting them in for looks?

My Switch motors are under the table DZ2500s. 80% of my switchstands will not turn because the  switchmotors torque is weak on the 2500s. So they are for show.My freind has the DZ1000s  and his switch stands heads pop off and spin on the layout like a top.TOO much torque.

No they dont take the place of a switch motor ,(as Don said )there is a little wire that goes to the switch throw from the lighted stand, so when the switch is thrown the little wire turns the switchstand to the appropriate color.

If you have 1000s  you may want to super glue the top head on before it enters orbit when you activate it.Just kidding on the super glue.

Totoises would of been the ticket had i known better.

Thanks for all your help.  I now see that the switch stand is connected to the throw bar on the OPPOSITE side from the switch motor.  Also, I'll find a solution to the "in orbit" issue.

Regards

Bill

Bill,

I have installed over twenty of the #50 switchstands on a variety of turnouts (4-way, regular#4 and #11, and curved).  While they are no doubt a major pain to install, they are worth the effort.  Like Patrick, I am using DZ2500 mounted beneath the table.  Lucyily for me and unlike Patrick all of my switchstands are functional, they do properly indicate whether the points are through or out.  Plus, they just look cool!Although I have probably spent more time laboring on installing the switchstand than on the DZ2500s.  There are a host of possible pitfalls when it comes to the switchstands.

• Positon of the switchstand on the ties is crucial.  It must be positioned so that the actuation of the light does not inhibit the range of motion of the points.   Test it before you install it.  You must pre-drill your holes for the spikes.
• The hole in the benchwork must allow for the wires feeding the light to have a straight shot through to the underside of the table.  Otherwise the wires can hang up and prevent the light and therefore the points from moving freely.
• The 90 degree bend in the wire that connects to the throw bar need only be as thick as the tip of the needle nose pliers.  If the wire is not bent perfectly the switch stand will not properly turn to inidcate the position of the points.
• Be sure there is nothing beneath them to inhibit their motion.  I just drilled my hole larger than necessary to avoid that.

Hope that helps.  Good luck, once you get the hang of it he become slightly less a pain in the....

I have 10 of these switchstands. brand new. if anyone needs them let me know. will let the lot go for a good price. These are very nice but too fragile for a club layout.

NYSME.