Disenchanted with 3-rail, I am now acquiring 2-rail locos, passenger cars and freight, as well as converting 3-rail cars to 2-rail. I have about 200' of Atlas-O 3-rail track, which I plan on converting to 2-rail for outdoor use by removing the middle rails, which will be repurposed for my 1-gauge layout. Anyway, I'm wondering if I've overlooked any pitfalls in this plan. Suggestions welcomed. Thanks.
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I don't see a problem, the atlas rails are flat. Just sand down the plate details for the center rail maybe?
I run code 125 because I love the look.
You could also sell the lot and get new track, it may save you trouble down the road
You might want to check that you have large enough turnouts to accommodate
the 2 rail locomotives. As a minimum you will need O72 if you stick to smaller 4 axle
diesels. Any bigger diesels or steam you will need #5 as the smallest.
Most likely your 2-rail wheels will drop when they pass over the frogs of any 3-rail switches you may re-purpose.
I switched to BPRC 2-rail and removed the middle rail of my Gargraves/Ross track, but kept the hi-rail wheel sets on my rolling stock and engines. Here's a photo:
I'm in the process of building a new layout but with 2-rail code 148 track, the hi-rail wheels run just fine on code 148, plus if I ever get any 2-rail engines or rolling stock they will run just as nice. I even started making my own 2-rail code 148 turnouts!!! I have 6 so far and need another dozen or so for my layout:
I'm waiting to hear from Tim Foley at Mianne Benchwork to get a price.
The thing about going to BPRC...I don't have to worry about wiring or shorts due to not having insulated wheels.
Attachments
Wow Bob, looks like a great room, and a great layout. Noticed the height that you picked for your new layout, 36" high. Unless this is dictated by sloped attic walls, may I suggest a higher layout height, like 52" (vary this depending on your height). Much easier to work on, and much easier to work under. Not that you will have to do much under the layout, since you are dead rail.
Regards,
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! Yep, the sloped upstairs walls are the killers. The knee walls are 48" high and if I go higher than 36" I lose width, if I went 48" I'd lose 2 feet of width (12x12 roof pitch or close to it).
The current 12x12 room layout is 36" high and I've gotten use to it. With my neck/arthritis problems I won't be crawling underneath/looking up much anymore!
Thanks, Santia, Jim, and Bob.
This outdoor layout will be "dead rails" so I won't worry about dropping out over the turnouts, which are 7.5's. My experience with the Atlas-O 3-rail turnouts was unpleasant due to arcing that fried a few boards, but the extra heft of the code 215 nickel silver should make an outdoor layout more durable. I'll get a little code 148 for playing/testing indoors.
The center rails might get reused for either O-gauge or 1-gauge, if I can muster the patience for hand-laying track.
Remove a center rail from a piece of track and see if you want to go to the effort of making it look nice. It's a lot of work to make Atlas 3r track look like it never had a center rail. I've done it on test pieces but its time consuming.
This week I bought a box of Atlas 6000 2-rail on the Bay. 24 pieces of "new" 36-inch, code 157 flex track. I hope the newer 7000 series is a big improvement because this 6000 stuff has really flimsy tie plates and a light-weight base. I'll just have to use it for display because it looks too weak to actually run trains on. I have a sample of Micro Engineering code 148 track and the rail and ties are much stiffer, so I'll look for more of that.
Does anyone know if the Micro Engineering code 148 track is made for outdoor use?
For Bob Delbridge: I am curious how do you run uninsulated 3 rail wheelsets on 2 rail track? Are you using "dead rail". Or how do avoid the wheelsets shorting out the system?
PRRJIM, he's using BPRC (battery power remote control) I assume.
Chainsawcharlie, how long does 1 of those batteries last on a charge?
Rick
I still have not installed RC kits in my trains. I will replace 3-rail "tires", axles, and trucks with 2-rail versions to get rid of that "3-rail look" and so my trains will be welcomed at 2-rail clubs. Anybody out their proficient at pulling blind and over-flanged tires and replacing them with 2-rail tires?
I have done a good bit of converting three rail steam loco drivers to 2 rail scale operation. However, I am cutting my workload back this year (2018) to four outside projects a month. I want to work on my own locomotives. Contact me if you are interested.
Joe Foehrkolb
Baldwin Forge & Machine