Rust Converter

The rust converter would probably work, but it's going to look like black paint on the wheels. I don't know how much rust is on the wheels, but it might be possible to remove it with a bit of scotch-brite. You could also try something like evapo-rust (harbor freight). It works very well, and will not remove the "blueing" on the wheels. Whatever method you use, when the rust is removed put a little oil on the wheel and rub it in to prevent future rust.
The easiest thing to do is probably replace the wheels if there is a lot of rust.

quote:

Originally posted by lionelbob:
I just got a 2456 Hopper from eBay, "unrun"

Greetings Bob. Rust and "unrun" are NOT necessarily exclusive from each other. If the car was stored somewhere in damp/humid conditions, it could easily rust just sitting there. I bought a factory wrapped loco with badly rusted drivers.

quote:

Originally posted by lionelbob: I'm thinking that this could remove or at least cover up the little rust splotches that appear on the "unrun" car's trucks.

Anyone have a similar experience with rust converters?

Regards, Bob

As the product's name says, you are converting the rust, not removing it. I'm betting your converter's basic rust "converting" ingredient is phosphoric acid, which turns the rust black.

Anyhow you can treat the rust, remove it with abrasives, or replace the rusted parts. If I were doing the first two options, I would remove the trucks to keep the converter off of the car body. There are several rust "killer" products out there....I like "Naval Jelly", which is of a consistency you could dab on. I would still recommend removing the trucks. You could also sand the rust off and paint those areas.

Good Luck,
Simon

I have been restoring antique Fords since 1962, and all of the rust converters I know of are acids, the most common being phosphoric acid. The converters chemically change iron oxide to a relatively inactive compound, but the damage remains. I would suggest removal of the rust by using an abrasive instead.

So I went ahead and removed the trucks, and used a small detail brush on the rust dots that were on the truck surface. The Marhyde worked beautifully. I can say that your warning that the rust converter may show up as black paint is OK with me since the trucks are normally black. Only by very close examination, could you even see the brush marks.

There was no rust on the wheels.

The Marhyde altered the rust color on portions of the truck, and will protect further rust from forming.

I use "D-Rust-It"

http://www.rustremoval.biz/ http://www.rustremoval.biz/

Dilute 10 to 1 with water in a glass. Put in rusted parts. Come back later to retrieve beautiful shinny parts.

Neutral PH and non-toxic.

It really works.