Saving Milk Jugs

Good luck, Bob!!!

Bob,

See if you can find your model on this website. Very straight forward from someone that's tested most of them.

 

I have also read that it is best to use the thinner from the same mfg as the paint. Perhaps with acrylics, distilled water would be best.

Moonman, thanks for the info.  I read his review of the Paasche H, which is what I have, but the most recent model with accessories.  I got the single action as I believe it will be easier for a beginner to handle than a dual action.  As to the external mix, it just turned out to be the only thing available in a quality single action airbrush.

I hope that helped to get to know the brush. He does objective reviews and offers helpful tips. Cuts the learning curve. Paint on some things and experiment before going for the real deal. You'll get it.

I bought a couple of airbrushes this summer. Believe it or not, when it cones to single stage, Harbor Freight makes one with 5 extra plastic bottles that are hard to beat for under $10.00. Great for scenery, etc.
if you are using acrylics, then the plastic bottles are not an issue.
A little different if spraying lacquer or enamels.
But for detailing locos and such, their dual action is by far the best deal going. It is a knock off of an expensive Pasche unit.
Bought a better cup because the one it comes with does not empty fully. About $3.00 from an old air brush parts drawer at Charles Ro.
Took about 10 minutes to get the hang of it. And never airbrushed in my life.
But the ability to feather both the air and the paint is light years beyond a single stage. Even in a $10.00 price difference.
A single stage airbrush is not really much different than a spray can. You can set up your initial pressure and pattern but it is either on or off.
With a two stage, you can blow off the model. Gradually add paint so you can get an initial dusting and add paint if you want a wet gloss finish with less risk of runs.
Plus you can dial the spray down to a pencil line if you want.
They both have there uses but if you are looking for a more controllable finish, I would go right to the dual action.
You can always use the set screw and use it like a single action if you are a little timid.
But I bet that if you spend a half hour practicing on cardboard, you will get the hang of it quickly. The single action is great for spraying alcohol/ ink washes and large areas with latex and acrylics that do not require finesse but volume.
Just my opinion.

I have heard of body shops that by the HR single action to paint door jambs etc on accident repairs. And throw them away after each job. Do not bother to clean them. At $10.00 a pop, it is not worth the labor or expense of solvent.
I only use mine for acrylics and spray Windex through it to clean. Never had to dismantle it and never had a clog. But I am an old frugal Yankee.

The cheap HF clone of the basic badger airbrush is my favorite. It works fine and cleans in seconds rather than hours. Plus have not had to buy parts all the time. Simple is best.

My Binks model 37 crapped out just before finishing the red stripes on a repaired rudder, and I grabbed the gravity feed $12 HF deal.  Glad the red stripe was at the bottom - could have done better with a roller.

 

I have used the really expensive Paasche brush for photo retouch, but the Model H is adequate for model trains.  I know nothing about scenery; you may need the control of an expensive unit there.

 

I struggled with the Binks.  finally discovered a faulty O Ring right where the air control rod goes out to hit the trigger.  Made a special insertion tool, put a new one in, and the HF gun will get donated.  While I was struggling I bought two more Binks guns from eBay, and now nothing can stop me except the Air Pollution Control Board.

Thanks for that link Moonman

 

I have the Badger Crescendo 175, double action internal mix, my wife (RIP) bought it for me a number of years ago.  The set came with 3 nozzles/needles.

 

The double action is still tricky for me, but I think it's because I don't do a lot of painting, maybe 2-3 pieces/yr.

 

Bob, ALWAYS clean your brush after use.  Follow the directions on how to disassemble it for cleaning (you might want to "field strip" it first to get use to how it goes before you use it).

 

I always have cups of water and paper towels handy when I'm painting and a couple of the small glass bottles that attach to my airbrush with water or thinner so when I'm done painting I can readily attach one to blow thru the airbrush before I disassemble it to finish cleaning it out.

HF does not sell a gravity feed to my knowledge. Only siphon feeds.
Not sure what you were using but if you could not paint a simple stripe, than maybe you should of used a roller. Actually a sable brush would of done an excellent job also.

I did extensive research on several airbrush sites and also several of my friend who model and do commercial airbrushing on vehicles.
They all say that the 6 airbrush set with the stand from HF is the best airbrush deal going. And everyone else are airbrush snobs or novice art students who paid way to much for a pretty primitive device.

An expensive airbrush will not make you a good airbrush artist.
Just like Snap-on tools will make you a better mechanic.
Maybe a pro might notice subtle differences if spraying all day, but even he can put down a smooth finish with just about anything.
Anyone who claims otherwise is only fooling himself.

Maybe you were using their gravity feed air eraser.
It is a mini sand blaster, not an airbrush.
They only sell the $19 Paache knockoff. Highly recommended from experience and by others.
The $9 Badger external mix knock off. Not as highly rated but I was able to paint prime and paint several die cast diesels with great results. Equal to factory paint jobs and the $10 quick change which I use and love for painting terrain and rocks. I do not flush between colors because I am looking for the blend and fades anyway. Best using latex and acrylic.

Have them all and use them often. Would never shell out big $ for anything else.

I was disappointed with the results using acrylic paint.  Not because of the airbrush application, but because I could not get the color I wanted, and stripping the acrylic was not easy.  I stripped the original paint with 91% isopropyl alcohol slick as a whistle, but the acrylic I applied did not come off smoothly.  The airbrush is a bear to clean, especially the siphon cup, but I figured it out.  It must be totally disassembled to clean.  I ended up using rattle cans and it turned out pretty well, and I'll use the airbrush in the future for detail work.  BTW, the airbrush I bought has three nozzles, 1, 3 & 5.  I was using the largest orifice, #5.

Hi Bob,
I still can not figure out what Harbor Freight gravity feed you are talking about. But I will give you $12.00 for yours and pay shipping.
I have never heard of an airbrush that requires complete dismantling to clean. Unless you use the wrong thinner and it gels. Also found that lacquer thinner will clean just about any paint.
Send be an email can I will Pay Pal you.
Just let me know when you send it.
Thanks.
I will use it to spray Floquil.
I find external mix with a higher pressure best for acrylics.

Best way to strip acrylics is an overnight bath in Purple Power degreaser. Will not harm plastics. I have stripped several models this way. And started fresh from scratch. Works great. Just use latex gloves.

It is a Paasche suction feed, not an HF.  I finally cleaned it by soaking the cup in 91% isopropyl alcohol.  The cup is hard to clean because the tube has a 45 degree bend coming out of the cup, and not much cleaning material will pass through that, but after soaking I blew the solids out with air pressure.  The rest is not too difficult to clean.

Bob,

 

these tube brushes come in handy:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/5...g-brushes-68155.html

 

I've been waiting 2 weeks for the humidity to drop below 70%, ain't gonna happen.  Guess I can't paint my 4-6-2 until next month!