I have been battling with all of the Scaletrax O-31 switches for several weeks. I saw the OGR 251 issue and tried some of those modifications which helped a little, but every time I think I fix one short circuit problem, another one pops up. I see there was a link that detailed some fixes that was erased but I think at this point i've butchered the switches so much I'd be better off abandoning the scaletrax switches and biting the bullet and buying Ross switches and substituting them. Any suggestions? I'm at my wits end.
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Search the forum for posts by Dave Hikel about Scaletrax. I just did a search and couldn't find it, but I thought he had explained some things that could be done to the Scaletrax switches to improver operation. Or maybe he will see this and reply.
It could have also been posted by his brother Ted Hikel. I didn't search on that. I think both of them have given many tips on Scaletrax in different threads. They definitely know how to make them work anyway.
I know Dave Hikel had a post with tips for several fixes but I think it has been removed so I am kind of a ship at sea without a rudder. I've read where only some of the switches have a few of the possible problems, but I'm running in to at least a half dozen problems with each switch.
He and Ted are the experts, we can just hope they comes by and see this. I use Atlas-O track and switches, never even seen a Scaletrax switch. I just remembered reading Dave's or Ted's post about them with a lot of fixing tips. Too bad if it was removed, maybe that's why I couldn't find it either?
I save some posts for reference, but I checked and don't have that one. Usually I only save things on the stuff I use.
Thanks for checking anyway. I appreciate it.
Mike
Where exactly are you experiencing shorting problems? What locomotives or cars are giving you trouble? What have you done to the switches so far?
Pictures are usually very helpful.
Sorry it's taken so long, but I haven't been able to work on my layout for a while. I think I've fixed the problem with the frog shorting and I think I've discovered the cause of the short that happens most. When some engines enter the switch from the curved direction, the front wheel of the engine (on the inside of the curve) is touching the non operating point rail at the same time the center roller of the engine touches the same point rail, causing a short. I have a picture of the point rail with black spots where it has shorted. I've tried using a dremel to thin the point rail with less than perfect results. Do I need to take more off? I'm worried I might ruin the switch if I do too much.
I've tried using a dremel to thin the point rail with less than perfect results. Do I need to take more off?
Mike
Where on the point have you been using the Dremel?
Have you tried putting a layer of tape on part of the point to see if the sparking stops and confirms your diagnosis?
What is the locomotive that is causing the problem?
Thanks for getting back to me Ted. Yes I did try putting tape on the point rail and it works well. No sparking and shorting. I've used several different trains and they all had the problem, some worse than others. I've mostly used a Lionel conventional steam locomotive (I stole my kids Polar Express train we put around the tree), and I've used an MTH Union Pacific 6284 diesel in dcs. The diesel seems to mostly have the problem when I run it in reverse. I don't know why, but it does. I'll try to paste a picture to show you where I've dremelled.
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I also have a picture showing where the shorts have scarred the rail. This is basically where I've tried to adjust the rail. I'm wondering if I may have to just find a way to put tape or some other insulation on the rail and live with it.
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Mike
I have spent quite a bit of time with the No. 4, No. 6 and O-72 Scaletrax switches but I can't recall if I have ever been hands on with a Scaletrax O-31. I'll talk to Dave about the O-31s when he gets back from York and ask if he has any specific tips on dealing with the challenges that come with their tighter radius geometry. Until then I agree that insulating the problem area with tape is the way to go.
The frog is just out of the picture. Have you provided an air gap or installed insulation there?
Thanks Ted. Yes I did separate frog and checked it with a voltmeter and it seems fine. I may have come up with a solution to the problem, but I'm not sure how "permanent" it will be. After I dremmelled the point rail, I put a layer of super glue over the reduced part of the point rail, let it dry, then put a layer of gray acrylic paint over it. It seems to do the trick. I think you are spot on about the sharper curve being part of the problem. Thanks for your help. I'll update here on how my solution does.
Mike
I think you should consider sharing you O-31 switch problems and their resolution as part of an ongoing service project for the benefit of other three railers. Most of the ScaleTrax layouts I know of have tended to use the O-54, O-72 and numbered switches. I don't think there are too many O-31 ScaleTrax switches out there yet. That may change with the Freight Central ScaleTrax layout package in the latest MTH catalog.
Ted
I'd be happy to help. Just let me know how. I've been making a list of the various issues and what I did to resolve them. My problems have dropped off significantly and I'm going to start trying a few different engines. The layout above reminds me of the first layout my dad and I had when I was a kid. Great memories. I chose the tighter radius switches for similar space limits. Anyway, I've got 8 O-31 switches on my layout and every one had more than one short issue. If the folks at MTH sell a lot of these sets, I think it's fair to say most people will expect it to work out of the box, and they may have some angry customers. I'm no engineer, but I think all the problems I encountered would be fixed if they replaced the metal point rails with a non conductive material, and if they placed insulation between the frog and the rails (or just made sure they didn't touch). I'd be happy to share my fixes to make it easier for others.