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After 2 months of cutting, running to the hardware store, researching track, trains, layouts and electronics, I finally am done!  Well almost done.

I'm getting ready for phase II.  This will entail adding a background (still have much research to do here), adding an led light strip all the way around the shelf and adding  some  3d decorations (buildings, trees etc...).  I've provided a link below to my youtube video I've made.  I welcome all criticisms, comments and recommendations you guys/gals may have.  I've listed some vitals below...

*  Atlas O 21st century track - went with this as it's uber quiet and very durable

* 072 curves

* Power: MTH Z-4000 (a bit overkill but hey, you always need more power!)

* Control system:  Lionel Legacy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpKtws1fAuw

Ps.. On my youtube channel, there's also a cool video of my first model train engine, it's a Lionel PW 602 Seaboard switcher.  This thing flies.   I can't believe how fast it goes. (link to video below)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZUXmg2QEAw

 

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You could add 10" 1/2 plywood on top of the plywood already there. Use a piece of pvc cove to add detail to the transition. PVC should be able to curve on your inside corners. 

The other option would be to add 4" to inside and attach with biscuits or festool dominoes. You would need to have or know someone with a biscuit joiner or festool domino cutter. 

It will take some time but it can be done. 

Would the PVC cove go underneath the shelf where you would see the older 6 inch shelf where it meets the newer and higher 10 inch shelf?

I also looked at festool dominoes but couldn't find any info on biscuits.  The festool dominoes look like "pegs" that would attach to the 4 inch addition and be inserted into the existing 6 inch shelf right?  Hmmm, that might be out of my carpentry abilities.  I guess I could try though.

 

Well done.  You did a great job finishing it so that it looks like part of the house.  Also apparent that you did your homework before starting.  Scarring me a little running that fast, if anything goes wrong the whole train can stringline onto the floor.  I have a premier up challenger that has some nasty scars from a car derailing on my shelf and pulling the whole train to the floor.  If you are going to widen it and may ever run bigger locomotives mine takes all of its 12" to fit two tracks in.

hey McGee,

Nice shelf build!

I was considering the second train idea. I don't think it would be worth the effort because of the viewing angle.  You could mock up a 10" wide section with cardboard or something to check it. I think you would only see the top half of the rearmost train.

Same goes for the back drop. You won't see much of the bottom, so a tree line with tops and perhaps a distant view of a mountain line up near the ceiling would be what one would see. You could carve some 1"-2" foam and just place trees near the wall for a 3D back drop.

So, I have an idea that may let you have a second train to prevent boredom or manual train changing. I believe if you added a piece of 1" baseboard molding on the edge of the shelf with the wall side up, (perhaps 1/4 round) to extend the shelf one inch. That would permit a tight fitting passing siding on one wall to park a second train.

You could work a Ross O96/O72 curved switch into two corners and create an almost 12' long siding. It would look like this.

Passing_Siding_6_inch_Shelf_Layout

Adjust the approaching wall side straights shorter to set the spacing. The ties are on the edge and the wall at 6".

 

A wiring comment - the bays on the interior wall where the double doors are located should be hollow. (no insulation) You should be able to fish the wires up inside of the wall next to the receptacle. You can modify the cover plate for a notch for the wire bundle. The covers or trim works, but always seem visible to my eye.

Anyway, great looking project as it is and you have layout that works with the better half's consent. That's the start of trackage rights.

Thanks for sharing the layout. Have fun!

 

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Last edited by Moonman

C&OLine:  I have to do some research, but I've seen a few videos where a guy had a similar setup as mine but used a 10 inch shelf for dual tracks.  I think he was running traditional models though and not full scale.  I'm not sure about the minimum required spacing between 2 sets of Atlas track, I'll have to look that up.  But you may be right, it might be safer to run a 12 inch shelf just for a little piece of mind. 

Moonman:  You might be correct regarding the viewing angle on the back/outside track.  I though about elevating it maybe 2 inches above the shelf to compensate for this.  I'll have to put up a segment of test track to see if it's worth it.  If I can't see it, might not be worth my efforts. 

But your illustration is a great idea.  I may end up doing something like that. It's a pain in the $%^ to switch trains out as I've got to get up on my ladder to do so. 

Ps.. Are the Ross switches considered the best regarding reliability?  If I went that route, the switches would have to operate flawlessly and could I control them with my Lionel Legacy controller?

TrainGuyMcGee posted:

Moonman:  You might be correct regarding the viewing angle on the back/outside track.  I though about elevating it maybe 2 inches above the shelf to compensate for this.  I'll have to put up a segment of test track to see if it's worth it.  If I can't see it, might not be worth my efforts. 

But your illustration is a great idea.  I may end up doing something like that. It's a pain in the $%^ to switch trains out as I've got to get up on my ladder to do so. 

Ps.. Are the Ross switches considered the best regarding reliability?  If I went that route, the switches would have to operate flawlessly and could I control them with my Lionel Legacy controller?

I don't know about Ross being the best, there are ways to make a lot of switches reliable. In this case, Ross happens to make this combo curved switch that provides a short entrance or approach into a siding or diverging route.

There are a couple of ways to control this switch with Lionel Legacy.

I don't do videos, but your construction method is identical to what I used on the first layout 11 years ago.  Mine is dual tracks,  utilizing Altas 072 or greater throughout.

With lower ceilings than yours, the layout height placed it right in line with the tops of windows, with one 8' wide window area spanned with a bridge.  Kitchen cabinet blanks support a wider platform where the loops cross over and form 2 passing sidings.  I hung the control panel and transformers underneath on drawer rollers, pulled out for access while I stand on a 2 step painters ladder.

I'd suggest laying 8" strips of 1/2" plywood over top of your existing structure, if expanding to 2 tracks is your desire.  The new corners can be cut from 2' X 4' plywood if you angle the straight section ends at 45 degrees.  I admit, the plate rail support I constructed was a bit more robust, but as long as you screw things together, I believe the wider shelf will be strong enough.  Plywood is suggested because it is lighter in weight than MDF.

I brought the 8'' shelf out from the wall about 3/4'', forming a trough that holds wiring and rope lighting.  Judging from what you have already constructed, a couple of extra inches of overhang shouldn't be a problem.

I should have avoided widening the platform in the yard area, something I hope to go back and rework when expansion into an adjoining room is complete.  Too much overhang ( 18" ) is complex to support and difficult to reach over.  Keeping layouts of this type simple is one of the best favors you can do for yourself.

Bruce

 

 

Last edited by brwebster

  Yep, that's right around the height, Carl.  the layoutcan never be fully appreciated, when viewed from a standing position.  If you are sitting down in a chair, then a view of the outer train is pretty much obliterated.   The step ladder observation platform solves that, and comes in handy for the umpteem million little layout chores you're bound to run up against.  Of course, a panoramic view from above, like on normal layouts, is totally out of the question.  The limitations become just another compromise when all we really want is a permanent layout and can't take up an entire room building one. 

BTW:  One pleasing byproduct of constructing the bridge out of steel and extruded aluminum shapes.....it's dead quiet!   Had I been aware of this before construction, I would have built the entire layout on suspended metal.  And since it's in our family room, quieter operation would sure cut down on the noise from "you know who". 

Bruce

 

 

TrainGuyMcGee posted:

After 2 months of cutting, running to the hardware store, researching track, trains, layouts and electronics, I finally am done!  Well almost done.

I'm getting ready for phase II.  This will entail adding a background (still have much research to do here), adding an led light strip all the way around the shelf and adding  some  3d decorations (buildings, trees etc...).  I've provided a link below to my youtube video I've made.  I welcome all criticisms, comments and recommendations you guys/gals may have.  I've listed some vitals below...

*  Atlas O 21st century track - went with this as it's uber quiet and very durable

* 072 curves

* Power: MTH Z-4000 (a bit overkill but hey, you always need more power!)

* Control system:  Lionel Legacy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpKtws1fAuw

Ps.. On my youtube channel, there's also a cool video of my first model train engine, it's a Lionel PW 602 Seaboard switcher.  This thing flies.   I can't believe how fast it goes. (link to video below)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZUXmg2QEAw

 

Outstanding work. The crown moulding is definitely the way to go and meet the requirements of the head of the "Department of the Interior".

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