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What is the long term experience of using silicone sealant as a substitute for rubber traction tires?

 

I downloaded the process of using silicone as a replacement for traction tires in 2010, so there must be some folks who can give us a long term report about its durability. 

 

Here is the process from a post on this forum in 2010, author unknown:


"The product you want for this project is Silicone Sealant, not caulk. The brand I have is Loctite, but you may find other manufacturer's such as G.E..

First arrange to have a transformer at your workbench, a soft cradle for your engine to be set in upside down, and some wires with alligator clips, so that you can connect your engine to the transformer and run it slowly while it is upside down. Before you do this, if it is a command engine, turn down the sound, and turn off the smoke unit, while you have it on the track. It is also a good idea to remove the brakes as they are close to the wheel and can get smeared with the silicone.

With the engine upside down in the cradle, get the wheels turning slowly, and clean the tire groove with your favorite solvent. I use denatured alcohol and Q-Tips. Caution: if you use a Q-Tip, keep it away from the gears near the wheels. If you touch a Q-Tip to the gears it will pull the fibers into the gears and jamb the engine to a stop quickly. If this happens you have to remove the engine's shell and turn the flywheel backwards by hand to get the fibers out.

Once the tire groove is clean, and dry, squeeze a small amount of the Silicone into the groove while the wheel is turning. Next, I prefer to use a squared off Popsicle stick, or tongue depressor, like a putty knife to press the silicone into the drive wheel groove and remove the excess. Then quit and let it dry overnight. It doesn't have to be perfectly neat at this point.

Next day, use an Xacto knife to trim off any excess silicone while the wheel is turning, or start and stop it if it is easier for you.

Viola! You're done."

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As a replacement for traction tires, my experience is that it it does okay if applied well, and by that I mean both you entirely fill the slot or depression made for the traction tire and make it thick and nice and smooth.  I apply it with the loco upside down, slowly turning its wheels, while I dab a big glop on and quickly smooth it out.  It does wear down/come off faster than the original tires wore out, but its easy to remove the traces and re-do.  

 

I have not had good results with it when used on non-traction tires, as when you want to add traction to a loco that is slipping.  Apparently it does not do well in really thin layers.  For this, I use Bullfrogsnot, or, much the same thing, the plastic sold at hardware stores, lumberyards, etc., that is mean for dipping/coating tool handles (as on pliers, etc.).  Again, the the loco upside down and turning its wheels slowly, I brush this "rubber paint" on and let in thoroughly dry.  It does wonders in some cases adding traction, although it noticeably cuts electric connectivity: add a traction tire to an 0-4-0 and you end up with a loco that pulls better but stutters for connectivity. 

 

EDIT: One thing I do first on locos that throw/tear a traction tire, is remove it and see if it needs traction tires.  My Vision CC2 had bad ones and I removed them all.  It pulls  just as well as far as I am concerned - certainly good enough for my needs, without them. 

Last edited by Lee Willis
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

For small locomotives with traction tires, I run a tether to take power from the tender, does wonders for the reliability going over switches and the like.

 

It is probably the best payback of any "bashing" project for a small loco.  It often takes less than  an hour to rig a tether, unless the tender has no center pickups in which case it might take two or three.  But it does wonders for the smoothness of the loco, AND it allows you to now lower the connectivity of \the locos drivers by coating one more it with plastic or whatever to add additional traction, if you need to, and still have a smooth-running loco.  

Thanks Lee for your feedback. From your response I get the sense that the silicone sealant is not as durable as an OEM traction tire.

 

Judging by the low response to this post, I guess there are not too many others using sealant as a traction tire replacement.

 

I have a stash of spare traction tires that is dwindling, so I will use the silicone sealant technique as a temporary fix until I can replenish my stash.

 

Has anyone tried baloney slicing heat shrink tubing as a substitute for OEM traction tires?

I have not tried silicone to replace traction tires but just wanted to point out there are probably hundreds of choices out there. I have some experience with Dow Corning products, both now replaced with newer products. One was self leveling and the other had to be formed. The self leveling product would do just that so if you used it for a traction tire the wheels would have rotate constantly until set which would typically take a couple of hours. You would end up with a tough and very smooth surface which felt like it had plenty of grip. I used them to pot electronics so best place to find similar products might be here.

 

This item best fits the description of the material I have used.

 

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

The heatshrink is an interesting idea, I had truthfully never thought of that.  It won't be as "grippy" as the rubber tires, but it should have pretty good life.

 

Other thing to keep in mind is that some heat shrink tubing has an adhesive in it that also activates when it's heated.  I'm not sure how easy it would be to remove and clean later.

 

IMHO, stick to the traction tires.  If you run out, order more and don't run the tireless locomotive until it's retread.

I have used the silicone method with excellent results. The key is more than one application, use thin layers, and let the stuff cure sufficiently. In my case, winter, this took about ten days. My MTH Railking Hudson has had the silicone on since 2011. It pulls about 10 Lionel Aluminum passenger cars with zero problems. The loop is not level and the silicone is still fine. However, I do not run this frequently. My DCS is not setup on this loop so I do not know how many hours of run time I have on the silicone. If the traction tire is a PITA, try the silicone. Just be patient. I was not the first time and it did not last.

Good Luck,

 

Bob

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