Folks,
Being new to the Standard Gauge world, I'm curious what the "typical" parallel track spacing should be to avoid clearance issues on straightaways as well as curves. Many thanks, in advance.
David
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Folks,
Being new to the Standard Gauge world, I'm curious what the "typical" parallel track spacing should be to avoid clearance issues on straightaways as well as curves. Many thanks, in advance.
David
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Jim, thank you. I was thinking of going the route of Gargraves flex track for my needs... Going to be very wide radius (on its own lower level) around the perimeter of an existing O-Gauge plan. Still throwing around a few ideas in my head. So the 7.5" spacing is good to know. Thx...
David
Dave
If you need help let me know. Gargraves is the way to go.
Is it hard to bend the 5 rail track?
Sunrise
HI
Sunrise When you bend the Five rail make a plywood jig and a rubber malet to tap ties around it moves well. Had done two layouts for customers with five rail.
I'm using 87" USA brand tubular track around the outside of a loop of 0-72, also tubular. Note that the Gargraves track isn't as tall as tubular, which can result in certain antique trains with oversize flanges riding on the ties. We used to have Gargraves on our museum layout and changed it out for tubular. The old track had grooves in the ties from oversize flanges. This is only an issue if you are running old original trains - the modern repros run fine on the lower rail, as far as I know. Sorry, I have no idea which old engines chewed up the Gargraves on our layout - I just saw the grooves in the ties. Maybe someone with an exensive collection of older Standard Gauge could enlighten us as to what has extra-deep flanges.
I'm using 87" USA brand tubular track around the outside of a loop of 0-72, also tubular. Note that the Gargraves track isn't as tall as tubular, which can result in certain antique trains with oversize flanges riding on the ties. We used to have Gargraves on our museum layout and changed it out for tubular. The old track had grooves in the ties from oversize flanges. This is only an issue if you are running old original trains - the modern repros run fine on the lower rail, as far as I know. Sorry, I have no idea which old engines chewed up the Gargraves on our layout - I just saw the grooves in the ties. Maybe someone with an exensive collection of older Standard Gauge could enlighten us as to what has extra-deep flanges.
Hi Southwest - If you have time, would you be able to let me know of your opinion of the USA brand tubular track? I was going back and forth between them and MTH tubular tracks before making a large purchase for my layout. Any info you can give would be great. Thanks!!!
I'm using 87" USA brand tubular track around the outside of a loop of 0-72, also tubular. Note that the Gargraves track isn't as tall as tubular, which can result in certain antique trains with oversize flanges riding on the ties. We used to have Gargraves on our museum layout and changed it out for tubular. The old track had grooves in the ties from oversize flanges. This is only an issue if you are running old original trains - the modern repros run fine on the lower rail, as far as I know. Sorry, I have no idea which old engines chewed up the Gargraves on our layout - I just saw the grooves in the ties. Maybe someone with an exensive collection of older Standard Gauge could enlighten us as to what has extra-deep flanges.
This is my experience of Gargraves as well. With their standard gauge switches, all the standard gauge I own, vintage and repro, rides on the ties. The rails are just not high enough.
Marauder, the older MTH track was okay. But the manufacturing specs used by the Chinese factory were changed in the last couple of years: any track manufactured under the MTH label currently or in the last 2 years or so has been cheapened dramatically; thinner tin used for both the ties and the rails, very flimsy, will not hold its shape. If you bend back the tabs on the ties to insulate your rail, the tabs will break right off.
The USA track that Kirk makes is much heavier, stronger, the tabs on the ties will survive bending a few times, it is made in the USA, more different radius curves available, and all at the same price as MTH. Only way to go if you are going traditional tubular. Kirk also sells extra ties and extra fiber insulators, and custom length track. Top quality stuff.
http://www.standardgaugetrack.com/
+1
USA track is the way to go. New Ross switches too.
I picked up enough of the new Ross switches at York to replace the remaining Gargraves switches on my layout. I have them mostly in the yard where the MTH tinplate switches won't fit because of the big switch motor protrusion. That'll be a biggish project, tear up the yard and re-lay the switches and sidings. Worth it. Already have 3 of the Ross on the layout, they are really nice. I would agree, at this point in time, state of the art for SG is USA track and Ross switches.
Hi Southwest - If you have time, would you be able to let me know of your opinion of the USA brand tubular track? I was going back and forth between them and MTH tubular tracks before making a large purchase for my layout. Any info you can give would be great. Thanks!!!
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