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I'm using 87" USA brand tubular track around the outside of a loop of 0-72, also tubular. Note that the Gargraves track isn't as tall as tubular, which can result in certain antique trains with oversize flanges riding on the ties. We used to have Gargraves on our museum layout and changed it out for tubular. The old track had grooves in the ties from oversize flanges. This is only an issue if you are running old original trains - the modern repros run fine on the lower rail, as far as I know. Sorry, I have no idea which old engines chewed up the Gargraves on our layout - I just saw the grooves in the ties. Maybe someone with an exensive collection of older Standard Gauge could enlighten us as to what has extra-deep flanges. 

Originally Posted by Southwest Hiawatha:

I'm using 87" USA brand tubular track around the outside of a loop of 0-72, also tubular. Note that the Gargraves track isn't as tall as tubular, which can result in certain antique trains with oversize flanges riding on the ties. We used to have Gargraves on our museum layout and changed it out for tubular. The old track had grooves in the ties from oversize flanges. This is only an issue if you are running old original trains - the modern repros run fine on the lower rail, as far as I know. Sorry, I have no idea which old engines chewed up the Gargraves on our layout - I just saw the grooves in the ties. Maybe someone with an exensive collection of older Standard Gauge could enlighten us as to what has extra-deep flanges. 


Hi Southwest - If you have time, would you be able to let me know of your opinion of the USA brand tubular track?  I was going back and forth between them and MTH tubular tracks before making a large purchase for my layout.  Any info you can give would be great.  Thanks!!!

Originally Posted by Southwest Hiawatha:

I'm using 87" USA brand tubular track around the outside of a loop of 0-72, also tubular. Note that the Gargraves track isn't as tall as tubular, which can result in certain antique trains with oversize flanges riding on the ties. We used to have Gargraves on our museum layout and changed it out for tubular. The old track had grooves in the ties from oversize flanges. This is only an issue if you are running old original trains - the modern repros run fine on the lower rail, as far as I know. Sorry, I have no idea which old engines chewed up the Gargraves on our layout - I just saw the grooves in the ties. Maybe someone with an exensive collection of older Standard Gauge could enlighten us as to what has extra-deep flanges. 

This is my experience of Gargraves as well.  With their standard gauge switches, all the standard gauge I own, vintage and repro, rides on the ties.  The rails are just not high enough.

 

Marauder, the older MTH track was okay.  But the manufacturing specs used by the Chinese factory were changed in the last couple of years: any track manufactured under the MTH label currently or in the last 2 years or so has been cheapened dramatically; thinner tin used for both the ties and the rails, very flimsy, will not hold its shape. If you bend back the tabs on the ties to insulate your rail, the tabs will break right off.

 

The USA track that Kirk makes is much heavier, stronger, the tabs on the ties will survive bending a few times, it is made in the USA, more different radius curves available, and all at the same price as MTH.  Only way to go if you are going traditional tubular.  Kirk also sells extra ties and extra fiber insulators, and custom length track. Top quality stuff.

http://www.standardgaugetrack.com/

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Rob English:
  New Ross switches too.

I picked up enough of the new Ross switches at York to replace the remaining Gargraves switches on my layout.   I have them mostly in the yard where the MTH tinplate switches won't fit because of the big switch motor protrusion.   That'll be a biggish project, tear up the yard and re-lay the switches and sidings.  Worth it.  Already have 3 of the Ross on the layout, they are really nice.  I would agree, at this point in time, state of the art for SG is USA track and Ross switches.

 

 

 

Originally Posted by MMarauder03:
 

Hi Southwest - If you have time, would you be able to let me know of your opinion of the USA brand tubular track?  I was going back and forth between them and MTH tubular tracks before making a large purchase for my layout.  Any info you can give would be great.  Thanks!!!

 
 
The USA track is the best you can buy, no doubt about it. It's solid, well-made, and the ties are properly staked. The recent Chinese track from MTH/Lionel is Chinese junk. It's made of thinner metal, the ties are loosely staked, it's just plain inferior. And while you're at it, avoid MTH switches like the plague. I won't repeat my posts detailing all the problems with the 72" MTH switches, but they are poorly engineered and poorly made. It's a pity, they are great looking switches and really give a layout that tinplate look, but functionally they are awful. The Ross switches are superior in every way. They also have moving points rather than a frog, so you can use them with old large-gear engines.
 
Note that older MTH track was made in the USA off the same dies that are now being used for USA Track. That stuff is fine - some of it is marked MTH and some is marked USA. Any new track marked Lionel is the Chinese stuff. I'm not sure if any of the MTH marked track was made in China or not, but I have some that is stamped MTH and it is the good stuff. What they are selling now is made for the Lionel tinplate line and stamped Lionel. 
 
Another big advantage for USA Track is that for a nominal charge they will cut straight track to length for you, up to 100". I had Kirk cut all my straight pieces to length and it saved me a good bit of work. It adds a bit to the shipping if you're getting long pieces, but it's worth it. 
 
USA Track and Ross switches are the way to go in Standard Gauge tubular track. 
 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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