Steamers, Diesels, Electrics: which ones are your best pullers?

This video shows one of my best: an MTH PS1 Jersey Central FM Trainmaster hauling freight:

It is a great puller because of its heft and traction tires. It also smokes great and looks great IMO. It may have been my 1st smoking diesel, a feature that I was, and still am, very excited about, especially when it 1st came out. Arnold

Have to go along with what you have said Arnold, all my Williams are great pullers most are twenty years old, with basic maintenance I never had an issue with these great Diesels. Now you got me thinking about which PW Lionel are great pullers will be back.

Another good puller Williams GG-1

Sitka, thanks for your above post and especially your photos and video therein.the video shows that the locomotives are fine pullers hauling long trains.

Back in the MPC/LTI era, I had (and still have) two sets of Lionel 15” aluminum passenger cars (8 Pennsy and 7 NYC). I had both a PRR and NYC set of ABA F3’s and, while they both would pull their respective consists, they were somewhat sluggish. I also had the MPC 8753 GG1which pulled them like a champ without breaking a sweat!!! Of my recent purchases, I’d have to say the steamers and GG1’S are the best pullers due to their heft.

Generally, my multi-unit 4 motored MTH diesels are great pullers…….but my Williams dual-motored scale PennCentral GG1 is a beast. Ten years ago, she co-starred with Gilly@N&W’s JawnHenry in a video entitled.”Monster in Midlothian”.

Peter

What’s obvious is that for pulling long trains, wide radius curves and none or very wide reverse loops are a must, both of which I violated by having 031 curves and not so wide reverse loops.

However, if your layout has similar limitations, you still might be able to run 10 or 11 traditional sized cars plus a caboose like I do if your locomotive has sufficient pulling power.

I am content with 10 or 11 car consists.

My Williams diesels are beasts like those of Peter. Williams locomotives also tend to be relatively economical. If pulling power is a priority, they may be the best deal.

I have one Williams steamer, a very pretty D&H Hudson, that is not a good puller. This may be because one or both of the traction tires are missing or worn.

The absence or condition of the traction tires can impact an engine’s pulling power.

Arnold

Have to go back to PW Lionel my Turbines 686 and 2020 are great pullers 12 plus cars easy and like we all know the wider the radius the better pulling traction. I have 2 PW Berkshires, and they are heavy and pull nice, The K-4 Pacific are another fine pulling loco. And my Prairie type locos are another good puller and finally my smaller Hudson family 2046, 2055 and 2065 pull great.  I found when buying a 75 year old loco it needs a good degreasing take it apart as far as you can go and get the old grease out of those gears. Arnold I also have Berk Williams Southern won't pull Rail king passenger cars, will pull 027 passenger cars fine. Still a fine looking engine she now just runs freight.

Well guys, my little layout can't stress most locomotives of any type.  I am not sure I could run 10-12 cars behind anything for want of space especially through and around my 0-31 curves.  However, based on general experience, I would vote for my GG1 as a great puller which I have never been able to overload.  My other great puller is a Williams by Bachman F59PH which just pulls anything I hitch up to it.  As I pick those two locomotives up I must admit that their weight seems to be an overall characteristic especially considering they are both essentially 1 unit.  Both are also twin motors.  So 2 motors + concentrated weight seems to be the key.

Don

RoW PRR T1.

Lou N

Most of my articulated steamers have no problem pulling long trains, the biggest issue is keeping all the cars coupled on a long train.

Here's my Mallot, not the beefiest big steam I have pulling 54 cars and not breaking a sweat.  I've also had my VL-BB pulling a 70 car train at Harry's place, no problem at all there either.

My little PW 027 2037 Adriatic w/Magnetraction from 1960-61 pulls pretty well at only 10V:

These are MPC cars retrofitted with modern chassis/trucks, so they roll well, but still... To get her to run like this, though, I did "cheat" as follows:

1. Added a metal bushing from Train Tender in the brushplate,

2. Added shim washers on each wheelset to keep the drivers from rubbing on the frame,

3. Added shim washers behind the idler gears to keep them from rubbing on the frame and, finally,

4. Added shim washers behind the connecting rods to prevent them from rubbing on the drivers.

When I got this loco from the auction site, she didn't even start up until 15V. Now, with internal friction dramatically reduced, there's plenty of reserve power to pull cars. I'm guessing she'd do 40 027 cars including caboose on the level, but my loop's not long enough for that.

@Bill Swatos posted:

My little PW 027 2037 Adriatic w/Magnetraction from 1960-61 pulls pretty well at only 10V:

These are MPC cars retrofitted with modern chassis/trucks, so they roll well, but still... To get her to run like this, though, I did "cheat" as follows:

1. Added a metal bushing from Train Tender in the brushplate,

2. Added shim washers on each wheelset to keep the drivers from rubbing on the frame,

3. Added shim washers behind the idler gears to keep them from rubbing on the frame and, finally,

4. Added shim washers behind the connecting rods to prevent them from rubbing on the drivers.

When I got this loco from the auction site, she didn't even start up until 15V. Now, with internal friction dramatically reduced, there's plenty of reserve power to pull cars. I'm guessing she'd do 40 027 cars including caboose on the level, but my loop's not long enough for that.

Bill outstanding idea, I have a couple brush plates that can use them what's the part #

We called this "the little engine that could"; RailKing Rugged Rail Series PRR 4-6-0 STEAM. For a few years from Thanksgiving through Christmas she ran at our town's Holiday Train Show. She defied the odds by pulling 23 cars (box, reefer, and tank, not particularly heavy) around a 13' by 15' L-shaped layout in an over under figure 8 going up a steep incline ON A 036 CURVE! She ran smoothly and consistently using the small remote with receiver. Oh and no feeder wires!

Mikki

My best pullers are not in any particular order:  MTH RailKing Y6b Mallet,  Williams Train Masters, Williams brass scale Camelback, MTH RailKing GP 9, SW9s, SW1500, C-16 Docksider, Williams by Bachman scale 44 ton with sound, Williams by Bachman scale B&O Hudson,  Lionel scale 0-8-0 & 4-6-2 Pacific the President Harrison both with TMCC,   K line A5 0-4-0,  Williams GG1, Williams by Bachman R16 Shark Demonstrator,  Williams by Bachman F7, Lionel scale Santa Fe F7, K line Collectors Club GG1.  All of these locomotives pull well and are reliable.

Basically any post war Lionels I have are not the best pullers.  This includes the 2065 Hudson, ( the 1947 versions of the 2025 and 1666 .. 2-6-2s ) Scout 0-4-0, Santa Fe ALCO FA unit, and Santa Fe NW2.   They all pull adequate length trains, considering their age and time they were built.  I do greatly enjoy running these engines on occasion and am always enchanted to see them in operation.   When I do run them ..  I run three loops with the postwar's at the point of 3 trains usually two freights and a passenger.  I still get quite a thrill watching all three in simultaneous operation!! ... grinning ear to ear just as I did when I was a little kid!  LOL!

The all time best pullers I have ever had are the Early 50's, Alcos. My 2023 Alco, and it's cousins, in other road names, pull great, even though they are about 70 years old. The old Magna-Traction is fantastic. Way better than those darn rubber traction tires.

Jeff

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Most of my articulated steamers have no problem pulling long trains, the biggest issue is keeping all the cars coupled on a long train.

Here's my Mallot, not the beefiest big steam I have pulling 54 cars and not breaking a sweat.  I've also had my VL-BB pulling a 70 car train at Harry's place, no problem at all there either.

Awesome, so realistic because real freight trains often pull long trains with many freight cars, like the model trains in your video, John.

Arnold

@mowingman posted:

The all time best pullers I have ever had are the Early 50's, Alcos. My 2023 Alco, and it's cousins, in other road names, pull great, even though they are about 70 years old. The old Magna-Traction is fantastic. Way better than those darn rubber traction tires.

Jeff

When I was a kid my Dad had built an upper level but the grade was too steep. My 2031 was slipping. My Dad got an extra motor and mounted it in the dummy. He connected it to the power unit’s eunit back wards so they ran together. I still have them they’re a powerhouse.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Most of my articulated steamers have no problem pulling long trains, the biggest issue is keeping all the cars coupled on a long train.

Here's my Mallot, not the beefiest big steam I have pulling 54 cars and not breaking a sweat.  I've also had my VL-BB pulling a 70 car train at Harry's place, no problem at all there either.

Articulateds really appeal to me - not because of the size, but because they can look so - uh - slinky. They tend to track well, too, for the same reasons that the real ones did. The 2-6-6-2 is really just 2 Moguls, attached.

And, my favorite articulateds are: the USRA 2-6-6-2 (see above), and the streamstyled SP AC-9 2-8-8-4. Lionel's versions are really, really good.

Pulling power? Well, the PW stuff....you have to slap a Pullmor to wake it up, and the gearing is usually a bit, say, casual. Not that I don't appreciate the stuff. I do. But a can motor and good gearing is the winner, natch. I've never really noticed any difference between the electric, diesel and steam, assuming a roughly equivalent size and price. Brand can matter (most Williams die-cast steam is pretty poor, but that last 4-6-0 is great - the chassis deserves a better model on top if it).

However - I do not attempt to do burnouts, donuts or "how many will it pull" sessions with my locos

My USRA 2-6-6-2 is dirtier than yours:

@Sitka posted:

Bill outstanding idea, I have a couple brush plates that can use them what's the part #

Mark, the part number from Jeff at Train Tender is 8801-77 brushplate bearing. See your e-mail for detailed instructions. I'm also going to post the instructions in "Lionel Tips 'N Tricks."

@Bill Swatos posted:

2. Added shim washers on each wheelset to keep the drivers from rubbing on the frame,

3. Added shim washers behind the idler gears to keep them from rubbing on the frame and, finally,

4. Added shim washers behind the connecting rods to prevent them from rubbing on the drivers.

When I got this loco from the auction site, she didn't even start up until 15V. Now, with internal friction dramatically reduced, there's plenty of reserve power to pull cars. I'm guessing she'd do 40 027 cars including caboose on the level, but my loop's not long enough for that.

Wow Bill!  Did you have to pull the wheels and gears to add the shim washers?

I already knew about the 8801-77, but if you don't mind me asking, what were the part numbers for the various shim washers?  I love finding ways to improve the performance of "traditional" locos.  Thanks for sharing!!

@Ted S posted:

Wow Bill!  Did you have to pull the wheels and gears to add the shim washers?

I already knew about the 8801-77, but if you don't mind me asking, what were the part numbers for the various shim washers?  I love finding ways to improve the performance of "traditional" locos.  Thanks for sharing!!

Yes, Ted, I did pull the non-geared wheels on all 3 wheelsets to add shim washers on the axles and idler gears. I used a Timko's Repair Depot wheel puller which is, by far, the best one for general use. I then used metric SS shim washers of varying thickness and diameter. Each locomotive requires different washer ID based on axle thickness and slightly different thickness depending on wear patterns of the wheels against the frame sleeve bearings. When you have Magnetraction, it really helps to eliminate "rub points" of wheels and idlers against the frame AND running gear against the wheels. I remounted the non-geared wheels making sure they each went back on the same axle splines they came off of, assuring proper quartering, and pressed them back on using a wooden plank to "back" the geared wheels and an oak wood dowel section and a plastic mallet for the removed wheels. You really have to be slow and deliberate here, but the wheels will go back on perfectly true. I can give you more details on the washers via e-mail to avoid violating Forum policy.

Bill, that is great you had success in all the wheel pulling and shimming!! 👍🏻