In checking my MTH engines, I need to replace a couple 9v rechargeable batteries. I did search for info on OGR about supercap BCR's, and sounds like there are good and bad things about them, one fellow complaining about the time it took for them to charge, and another about sudden stops, one fellow asking a question back in 2017 that never got a reply. The premade direct plug in 9v units seem a little pricey in the 20 and up range, when you can buy ten 5.5V supercaps for $1.84 each from Newark to roll 5 of your own BCR units. I have a couple locos with Eveready 9 volt rechargeables that had not been powered up in over 4 years (did not have broad enough curves to run them until recently) and found them at full 9 volt charge, so that is a bit of an argument to not switch to the BCR. I have one MTH loco that came with a BCR, and I found one with a regular 9 volt battery installed, glad it did not overcharge and break open. All my MTH stuff was purchased used, some from Trainz, some from online auctions, all except for one I did buy brand new.
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I've installed them in all my command locos. Also mostly second hand from Trainz. No issues that I've seen so far. They are easy enough to build yourself with a few bucks worth of components. Newer PS3, and PS3-2 stacker boards have the caps built in.
I don't see a question in your post so I will just make a comment.
More than 15 years ago, I installed BCRs and BCR2s in all the MTH PS1 and PS2 locomotives that I run. I've never had a problem with any of them. Yes, they are expensive. I let them charge on the track for 1 to 2 minutes before running.
MELGAR
Actually, you can roll your own from 5V supercaps, if you use caps from the same production lot, the extra balancing components aren't a factor in my experience. So, it's just two 5V supercaps in series with a Keystone #68 battery clip and some heatshrink. I've had a bunch of these in service for over five years without any failures or issues.
3V models are even easier, I cut the old harness off the departing battery and solder that to the 5V supercap. A little heatshrink and you're done.
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Is there any polarity requirement when installing the supercaps?
MELGAR
@MELGAR posted:Is there any polarity requirement when installing the supercaps?
MELGAR
Must certainly YES! Supercaps are clearly marked for plus and minus. When you wire them in series, you obviously connect a plus to a minus in the middle of the string so the polarity of all the components in the string are the same. It's exactly the same kind of restriction as if you were wiring some LED's in series.
I'm referring to polarity with respect to the voltage into the connector.
MELGAR
@MELGAR posted:I'm referring to polarity with respect to the voltage into the connector.
MELGAR
Same comment applies, there is a positive terminal on the Supercap, and it most certainly has to go to the positive terminal of the battery connection to the board. The supercap construction is treated just like the battery, would you connect the battery backwards to the board?
I guess that's my question. Positive on the capacitor goes to positive DC voltage on the board. But, without a volt meter, how can positive terminal on the board be determined. Is there a color code for the wiring? Thanks for the replies.
MELGAR
When you look at the 9V battery, the smaller terminal is the positive terminal, it's usually marked as well. For the 3V board, the red lead is positive, I don't think I've seen any that don't have a red lead. If you make the battery correctly, plugging it in makes the correct polarity connections.
@MELGAR posted:I'm referring to polarity with respect to the voltage into the connector.
MELGAR
@Vernon Barry posted:When plugged into the board (PS2 3V board shown below)
Actually, since this topic also talks about PS2 5V with the 9V battery, might as well link the whole original topic https://ogrforum.com/...4#164588232434864614
@gunrunnerjohn posted:...
Might visually answer @MELGAR 's question if you can post a picture that shows the assembly before the shrink tube is applied - sequentially between the two photos shown above, including how the capacitor leads are connected.
Here you go, all wired up.