Swapping the tether on MTH Locomotives

I remember the post but do not have the part number. I am sure the part was the one that connected an A unit to a B unit.

I have done a few "regular" steam locomotive models, as it will NOT work on the articulated versions (must be some sort of MUX board inside the boiler). The key to the modification is enlarging the hole in the front of the tender that the new, straight tether, has to pass through, otherwise the engine & tender do NOT negotiate curves very well. Also, I found a few models where the tender deck height didn't properly match the female receptacle, and made the new straight tether bend downward too much.

The MTH part number for a "straight tether"  is  BC-2100070, according to my old notes. 

MTH also sells an "extender" cable that has one straight connector on one end and the 90 degree connector on the other. I got a few of these for doing upgrades when one might work better that the other.

The part number is BC-0000217

Pete

Diesel Harnesses

10 pin flat, PS2    BC-2100033    B unit to Lead A unit, ref. F-3 20-2307-1
10 pin flat, PS2    BC-2100035    Trailing A to B unit, ref. F-3 20-2307-1
10 pin flat, PS2, universal    BC-2000000    B-unit to Lead A unit
10 pin flat, PS2 (B unit pass thru)    BC-2100070    B-unit pass thru harness
4 pin, Original Proto,     BC-0000011    pass through for Powered F-3 B unit
4 pin, Original Proto,     BC-0000014    Lead F-3 A unit to Dummy B unit
4 pin, Original Proto,     BC-0000013    Dummy F-3 B unit, connects A units


Steamer Harnesses

PS2 & LocoSound, 10 pin    BC-1000002    Universal type
PS2 Steam, 10 pin to 10 pin, universal 10"    BC-0000217    angle 10 pin to straight 10 pin

http://www.toytrainsontracks.c...placeTetherPage.html

Thanks for all the input guys.

Joe, Thanks for that link. 

Do not use diesel harness as a direct replacement for steam, they are not internally wired the same.  Your motor leads are in a different pin connection.

The External harness Pete mentioned is the best method to go for a straight plug.

Diesels should only be used for upgrades where your willing to resolder wire connections on the engine side PCB.  G

Thanks G

The link that Joe posted shows how you need to resolder the connections that don't match up.

I think I am going to try the part that Pete mentioned first and see how that works out.

When I spoke to Midge she mentioned the diesel tethers use different color wires. For me that would not have been a problem as I make my own engine connectors and use whatever wire matches but I thought it be desirable to have the option to use either the straight or right angle connectors.

I suspect the diesel tethers would cost less with their single connectors. Then you could just hook them up to the engine with the shell off and use an ohmmeter to determine what color wire on the tether goes to what color in the steam engine.

Pete

I chopped up one of these to do that kind of mod on a new PS/2 upgrade: BC-0000217

I did this on an Imperial Railking Big Boy and I love it.

I did have to slot the front of the Die Cast tender and that was some finicky work for the Dremel tool. Fortunately there is a well in the front of the tender that hides the slot nicely. It no longer handles O-31 but it runs on everything else and it always looked horrible on O-31 anyway, the cab hanging completely outside the rails on the O-31 curves!