Testament to Led lighting on passenger cars

Lookin' good.  I do just tape over all the holds in the chassis after these installs so the light doesn't shine through.  The good thing is the cars with full interiors don't have any holes to tape, that eliminates that step.

Im still in the '90s.  Lots of new stuff to buy to get full interiors. 

I end up doing both types at times.   Of course, when you light up the cars with full interiors, they look dumb with no passengers, so the expense really starts to add up!

I've been using GRJ's boards to light up my LaBelle passenger car fleet. The best part about them is I don't have to make them! The second best part is one can vary the intensity from soft glow to full-out lights.

The only negative is what was posted above. Once lit, you have to detail the interiors, and in my case, passenger car figures are impossible to find. Unfortunately, my railroad is running a lot of empty passenger cars. 

I had GRJ put LED lights in all my passenger cars and cabooses. He did a great job. Best decision I made.

Just ordered three sets. Will give it a try. Thanks John.

Two questions, I trimmed the led strip leaving a section to use on something else.  How delicate is soldering wires to those tiny contacts?  My iron isnt adjustable heat so dont want to burn em up attching wire. And, resistors are already there, so no need to put those inline, right?  TW

They're not really that delicate, but obviously a blowtorch is not appropriate for soldering them.  I'd stick with either 25-30 watt simple iron or a temperature controlled soldering station for soldering to the strips.  Obviously they can be soldered, I've done literally hundreds of them, and I've never lost one to excessive heat.

I have a question about installing LED lights in passenger cars. Are there any LED's that don't need capacitors or other electronics to operate with for 3 rail O scale cars?

Lee Fritz

Lee; I've bought "LED strips on a roll" from two different vendors on-line, and both strips have the appropriate resistors already installed. Just feed the strips with DC ( I used GRJ's constant intensity power supplies which worked great in 25 passenger cars I have).

The strips have peel and stick tape on the back, so installation is a snap.

Where do ya get these from?

They do sell led bulbs that are a direct replacement for the ones in passenger cars. Either screw in or bayonet mount. Google 1445 led bulb, a bunch will come up. I don't know how well they work, but may be worth a try. TW

Dougie: Just Google 12 volt LED strips for many options for purchase.

TedW: LED conversion bulbs do work, but I find the strips spread the light thought the car more evenly.

D&H, I agree, the eveness of the light strip is really nice.  TW

I have a old school Lionel dinner that I repainted and fixed up, but in having it on all Christmas both the bulbs burned out.  So I have to find some LED to replace before the next "big Show"..they are the bayonet type

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I end up doing both types at times.   Of course, when you light up the cars with full interiors, they look dumb with no passengers, so the expense really starts to add up!

Unless you are modelling a passenger train right before Amtrak!

If you live in Houston Ace Electronics have the bayonet drop ins.  The are on Antoine just south of 34TH.

TedW posted:

.... And, resistors are already there, so no need to put those inline, right?

Each section of 3 LEDs has its own resistor. 

If you buy "just" GRJ's LED driver module, it will drive your unused/extra strip(s) with no additional electronic components.

Just googled this. Many options on direct replacement if thats the way you want to go.  I would suggest warm white to match an incandecent bulb.  TW

phillyreading posted:

I have a question about installing LED lights in passenger cars. Are there any LED's that don't need capacitors or other electronics to operate with for 3 rail O scale cars?

No.  An LED will need "other electronics" to operate with 3 rail.   An LED requires about 3V DC while the voltages on 3-rail are 5 or more times that and AC.

So even if you buy a plug-and-play LED bulb with bayonet or screw base, it will have "other electronics" inside the base to, at minimum, lower the voltage.

Also, one reason you might want to consider capacitors is for better flicker rejection.  LEDs respond instantly to a loss of track voltage whilst incandescent bulbs fade gracefully (albeit rapidly).  A capacitor allows the LED to stay lit during brief hiccups in track voltage.  Personal preference as to its value.