The O Scale Kadee Coupler - Video Series - NEW VIDEO 11/13

An informative video. Thanks!

Fred

Great stuff, keep it up!

Well done! Looking forward to the next video.

Now that was good...keep going sir.

Laidoffsick - A great contribution to the hobby!  Thank you.  

Very interesting.

This is very helpful as I've been wanting to do this for quite some time, very informative.  Thanx Jim

Do you think the 740s switch better than the 805s ? And do the 740s mate up well with the 805s ?

Are the shank length the same?

 

I've done about half my cars with the 805s and could readily go forward with the 740s.

 

Never mind, I found all the answers. Duh !

 

Thanks, Ron

Good solid info.

I used and use them in HO for all my stock.

But for O 3R I'll stick with the claw. 

200 locos, 500 cars times $5 AND the time....some well over an hour each.....I'd never finish!!!

I have been installing Kadee couplers on my rolling stock ever since I acquired Altlas-Roco boxcars from the seventy's.  That's what got me hooked.  The Atlas lobster claw was ugly and non functional.  I've been converting my equipment ever since.

 

Looking forward to continuing series on these couplers.

That's about how I feel.  I used nothing but Kadees when I was working in HO and N, but I feel no great need to start converting my 3Rs equipment.

 

But I do thank the OP for his videos.  I have no video equipment myself, but I wish I'd had it when I installed full 700E valve gear on my Lionel 783.  It might have saved other modelers a lot of trouble to see how someone else dealt with the problems involved.  Video tutorials are a great idea for those who have the equipment.

 

Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it and help all us Kadee newbies with their use. I have some of the Kadee 74x series, but have been reluctant to try a conversions yet. This is perfect timing for me, thanks again.

 

Jim that is exactly why I decided to do the videos on the Kadee couplers. I have met several people, and read many posts, where guys want to do it, but don't know much about them and the process. Hopefully these videos will help the guys on the fence to make the decision to jump to the other side.

 

Ron, this is where I myself am still on the fence. I haven't spent a lot of time switching cars with the 740 or the combo 805 with 740. My initial findings are that (IMO of course) the 805 "works" better for switching, and that the 740 does not couple up with the 805 that easily when switching. There is a noticeable difference in the "amount" of movement in the knuckles of the 2 different types of couplers. The 805 knuckle opens quite a bit further, and from what I can see, it's because of the difference of the external knuckle spring of the 805 versus the internal spring of the 740.

 

If you are just running trains (no switching) they mate up just fine, no issues at all. I will be doing a video in the near future to compare the 740 and 805 for switching purposes.

 

The shank lengths, or at least the total length of the 2 couplers LOOKS to be the same. I have not checked the specs on the Kadee website for an exact comparison, but they look the same to me. If they are not the same, they would only be off by a few thousandths.

 

I stopped buying the 805's, just because I like the looks of the 740 so much better because of the hidden spring. 

 

Dave, it's definitely a hassle when trying to start from behind. I decided to do it when I had only about 40-50 cars. When you do 1 car at a time, it takes forever. I did groups of cars that were of the same type. The thing that takes the longest is finding the correct depth of your shim/spacer for the different types of cars. That is trial and error, no way around it. Once you know what shims a specific car takes, they go quick.  

 

It's definitely not for everyone in the 3 rail market, but there are people who would like to do it, so hopefully my videos will help make the jump for those on the fence.

Very well done video, Doug. Keep 'em coming.

 

Like you, I switched over to the 740 series for my conversions. The 745 is necessary ONLY if you have a brass freight car and operate on 2-rail to completely electrically insulate the car from its brass neighbor. The only engines I can think of that require the 743 short box/short shank are the 44-ton (pilot is very shallow) and the MTH GP35 (rear pilot is very shallow, but you could grind down the truck block coupler mount and use a 740).

Very helpful to those who have a desire to make this conversion. 

Terrific video.  Looking forward to the series.

 

I've wanted to take the Kadee plunge for a while now.

Thanks,

George

I added PART 2 to the original post...

Part 2 was excellent.  Although I've installed a lot of Kadees, I have never come across the punch trick to hold the box together when mounting.  That's a good one!

I started with my Weaver cars as they're an easy switch. Already drilled for Kadee couplers and changing out the wheels is easy if desired. I go out and get a batch of couplers and do the cars in batches of two to five. I also switched over to scale-wheeled cars on my new Atlas purchases as they work fine on flat-top track at 36" radius (O-72) or larger.

 

Another thing that has defrayed some of the cost is I got on a "buddy system" with a couple of forum members -- swapping hi-rail trucks/couplers for their scale counterparts (I'm converting a pair of new cars for one of them right now).

 

I can't even remember where I learned that. Maybe in the instructions, but I don't remember ever reading those either.

That is a neat trick, I was using tape to hold them together, your way is much better. As for the springs, my grandson installs those for me, I can barely see them with a magnifying glass. He can even find the ones that go flying when I try to install one.  

Part 2 was great. I've been slightly squeezing the boxes to keep the lids on -- not enough to misalign the screws, but enough to snap the lid on. Your way is much better and more precise. Atlas cars are set up for 2mm screws, but 1-72's will work without drilling.

 

Hadn't thought about enlarging the holes, but that's a great idea as some cars are a bit "uncooperative" aligning the boxes.

What a great addition to the hobby!! Nice job Doug!!that is what it's all about! Keep them doggies Rollin, Rollin,Rollin... 

Great confidence builder.

Most 3 railers have no idea on how nice the Kaddee are to couple and uncouple. 

 

Laidoffsick your correct it's in the directions

 

clem k

This couldn't have come at a better time. I'm using Atlas O-36 curves, and want to use Kadee couplers on some short 19th. century freight cars. I'm hoping that the 805/740's  will work.

I like it eh

I don't think body mounted Kadees will work on an 036 curve, even short cars... but there's only 1 way to find out for sure on your tracks

Hi Doug,

 

Enjoyed your video's, very informative and very nicely done.

 

Thanks,

Alex

Extremely informative video.  I very much enjoyed watching. 

 

Thanks for sharing. 

PART 3 added to the original post. Modifying the draft gear box for tight spaces and tighter curves.

Another great video

 

Thank you

Clem 

Hello Doug • I watched Part 3 today • As always well done.

I like how you get the grinding work done.....

Cheers from Michigan

Just viewed Part 3. Very well done, Doug.

Hello again Doug

 

I noticed your bench grinder moving on you. I use a woven rubber cloth that they sell for opening tight jar lids in the kitchen. Just put a couple of these under your grinder and it won't walk away from you. They might sell some of these in woodworking stores also.

 

Clem k

Hey Clem, thanks very much for the tip. My grinder doesn't normally set there on "that" work bench. I just put it there for a better angle/view for the camera. I have another bench where all the "bench top" tools sit on, and it has a non slick surface for everything to stay in place. Just too many tools on there for a clear camera view while I was doing the video. My wife puts those rubber mats under all of our rugs on the tile floor    

Another great video, thank you for taking the time to make these.

Just watched part 3, another very informative video. Looks like very good ways to overcome some of the conversion problems. Have you ever thought about sending your ideas/methods (or a link to your excellent videos) of modifying the couplers and doing the conversions to Kadee? You never know, they might just start making some like that. That was just a thought, but might be worth a try, they might just be interested. If not, I'm sure they would be impressed.  

Hi Doug,

 

When you put the original coupler and the Kadee next to each other, there is such a noticeable

difference. The Kadee looks a million times better and so realistic. The same goes for the fixed pilot, it looks so much better and realistic. Thanks for taking the time to post these very informative video's, keep them coming.

 

Also looking forward to your next video Layout update

 

Alex