Timber Trestle Bents: Question

I usually build my trestles upside down then build the scenery up to the supports.  Some manufactures make trestle track with ties that are spaced closer.  They also have extra rails.  I would not put homasote on your trestle.

Here is a photo of one that I had on my layout.

Hope this helps,

Dave

Thanks David-- Your photo looks great. Do you lay the tracks directly over the trestles, or is there some sort of bridge structure between the tracks & the trestles? I can't really see from the photo. 

I put in a vertical piece between the track and bent.

Here is another.  This was also built upside down.  The beam in between the track and bents is smaller.

Dave

Your trestle system looks amazing, and I appreciate the upside-down tip for construction. My bridges are around curved sections, which adds a bit of difficulty. I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible, and my idea is to run two strips of 1/4" square dowel lengthwise underneath the tracks; specifically, one strip passing under each side of track screw holes. The dowels flex around the curves without breaking (especially if I soak them in water) and I am using #4 screws through the top of the track sections and down into the aforementioned lengthwise-running dowels. From there, I will attach the trestle bents to the track's dowels (pre-drilling with a 1/16" bit). This afternoon I stained all of the dowels that will pass underneath the tracks, as well as the pieces I will use to inter-connect the sides of the bents in an "X" shape.

Sound feasible? Any tips/advice appreciated.

I can write a little on how real trestles are built. This is in general, there are many variations.  The bents are spaces 15 feet apart.  bracing is every 16 feet vertically to address buckling.  There may be a concrete sill on the ground. On top that would be a 12" X 12" timber sill. The vertical posts sit on top of that. Usually three 12" X 12" on each side, the outer one at a slight angle to handle lateral loads, the next two vertical.  On top of the posts is a 12" X 12" cap.  There are 6" X 18" stringers, maybe six on each side. These are running under where the rail will be. They usually have cast iron spacers to keep them a couple of inches apart. They are 30 feet long so they cover two spans.  The joints are staggered so only half the joints are on any one bent. Then the ties (bridge timbers) go crossways on the stringers. 

The problem in modeling a trestle built this way is the curves used on model railroads are much sharper than on a real railroad, so it may be a problem to get the stringers to lay in.  

Here are some shots of a bridge that I built at our club. I first built a curved piece that matched 072 and built it in layers with spacers. Once I had that in position, we attached the bents to it.

I also built mine top down and brought the scenery to it. The deck first, then held in place by a very straight thick piece of oak. Span is over two feet across. Carefully cut each assembled bent to height and super glued in place to deck, then added all the cross pieces. Then made sure the bottoms where all solid. Last part was hand spiking and gluing the rail in place.

All of these trestle systems and bridges look great. I think I lack the tools (just a simple coping saw) and the basic know-how to build curved platforms/bridges. I attempted to run a 1/4" square dowel curving lengthwise under the screw holes on each side of the track, but it doesn't look very good. I think my options are to either continue the homasote strips above the trestles, or have someone build the platform section for me.

Go to Scenic Express one of our sponsors, they sell the stuff you want. Deck is pre made and the bents(uprights) are pre made in different lengths. That is what I used, not the best but the results work. You make a curve buy cutting the straight sections into smaller pieces,cut on a angle like slices of pie. 

Clem

Can you use a pre-formed curve?  

Bents are pretty easy to make.  It is best to make a jig.  

You can always buy them as Clem suggested.  I hate to see you not give it a try.  

Dave