Skip to main content

I replaced the rear coupler on my Custom Series 1 Hot Rod GP9 6-18575. When placed it on the layout, I got nothing but static through the speaker. I opened it back up and found one of the pullmor motor leads came of. It appeared to short to the side of the motor. I reconnected it. I have the sounds back. Motor, horn and bell in conventional. I can fire the front and rear couplers with the DCS remote but the lights don't operate and the engine will not move. In conventional, the engine revs up higher with higher voltage. I can spin the motor so it is not a mechanical issue. I assume something on the board shorted out. all connectors are secure and plugged in properly 

 

I have a few questions. Lionel shows the board but as blank. The sounds are custom to this engine and I don't want to lose the sounds. What exactly does the upper and lower boards control since the coupler connector is next to the lighting connector. Also I found that the cam on the axle has a crack and spins on the axle shaft. I assume this is speed sensor for TMCC to control engine revs when operating TMCC

 

Thanks Greg  

Last edited by Riverrailfan
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Greg,  That is an LCRU and RS 2.5 platform.  Since sounds work, you only need the LCRU 2 which is the equivalent of a R2LC and Motor driver combined.  This was the early version of TMCC.  Yes the cam is the speed sensor,  it triggers the cherry switch and controls the rev for diesels.

 

Not sure why the lights went out, unless it needs a reset.

 

If your not comfortable disassembling to this level I can look at repairing or replacing your LCRU.  I have them in stock.

 

If the cam is cracked but still rotates properly, just a little super glue to seal the crack and leave it alone.   G

GGG, how is a reset done. I searched on here and found nothing that made sense. The only thing I got to run this engine is DCS. so I don't know if I need a Cab1 remote. I'm pretty sure I will send this to you. I could do the repair. If it was any other engine with no special sounds I would do it. I just don't want something to happen with the sounds.

 

William, it is a unique engine. I actually like the cars with the exception of the observation car that come with this more than the engine.

You do have a command base correct?  I am assuming a motor triac got damaged.  Either way we can get it repaired.  You can reprogram the id #, and use this:

 

5 for strobe and 6 for cab light.

 

Reprogramming LCRU circuit boards to restore features

STEP 1:

 

Move switch on locomotive from

run to program.

STEP 2:

 

Turn on Command Base.

STEP 3:

 

Place locomotive on track, then

turn on power to track.

STEP 4:

 

Press “ENG” then input locomotive’s

ID#. Press “SET”

STEP 5:

 

Press “ENG”, then the ID#,

“AUX1”, then press

 

a number closest to

your locomotive type. (see list for engine

types)

STEP 6:

 

Turn off power to track, wait ten

seconds.

STEP 7:

 

Remove locomotive from track,

move switch from program to run.

STEP 8:

 

Place locomotive back on track,

turn power on to track.

STEP 9:

 

Press “ENG” and ID#, then operate

as normal.

PROGRAM CODE FOR OTHER ENGINES

0 = STEAM WITH SIGNAL SOUNDS

1 = DIESEL WITH SIGNAL SOUNDS

2 = DIESEL WITH CAB LIGHT AND SIGNAL SOUNDS

4 = STEAM WITH SMOKE

5 = DIESEL WITH STROBE LIGHT

6 = DIESEL WITH CAB LIGHT

36 = ALCO PA

 

S - NEW IN 1997

70 = J1E HUDSON & S.F. WARHORSE (BOTH

LOCO&TENDER MUST BE ON TRACK)

Actually I guess it it the Custom II my speaker went bad on.  The pinkish pastel one.  These are both unique engines.  They come programmed from the facory long hood forward.  Their Railsounds are different in that you cannot increase the RPMs with the remote.  It has to come from the motion of the engine.  The burnout sounds are great.  As are the startup and shutdown sequences.  I have run mine in a lashup MU or whatever and that is a blast.  I am going to look at my guy right now to change that speaker.  Again, good luck.  These are cool engines.

Glad you guys are enjoying these. I actually own one of them, I think it was the first one. We recorded the sounds from two of Neil's old cars. One I think was a cadillac biarritz and the other a lincoln--perhaps the car he later had converted to electric operation and ultimately burned in a warehouse fire.

 

I seem to remember there was a button that caused the engine to rev while stationary. Does the boost button do that? I might be mis-remembering, don't hold me to it!

Riverrailfan - did yours come factory programmed as long hood is forward?  To be honest, I don't think your sounds are the same as mine.  Yours seems to stay in first gear.  Mine changes gears and does a burnout when it engages the next speed step.  Yours seems to putter in idle even when in motion instead of the RPMs increasing.  I should do a video.  I just took up my O gauge track.  Maybe this weekend.

yes the cracked cam is slipping. I recorded that back in the summer, so I gues it was cracked then. that repair I think is going to be epoxy. That is why there is no burn outs and engine rev. Has it in conventional because it is using transformer voltage.

 

William, the custom 1 and custom 2 have different sound files. When I get the cam fixed I will update the video.

 

GGG, a Hemi would of been good.

 

Yes long hood forward, which is why I replaced the rear coupler. It was releasing running the engine with the consist.

I've got both engines.  My Custom II is the one with a bad speaker.  I'm going to get that fixed.  I was looking at it a day or so ago.  I have the speaker.

Ok, how do I access the speaker to change it out? Which screws do I need to twist?  I have it ready to go, but I thought I'd ask before I wasted time taking the wrong things apart.  Please advise.  I can get this done right away.
I'll put a loop together and do a short video.  I think we need to see how this baby really sounds.  I've run them MUd together too.  Very cool.

Last edited by William 1

William, The rev sounds are all voltage change. To get the burn out and high revs, you have to ramp the speed up fast. The only way I can do this with a DCS remote is to scroll the wheel as fast as possible on 128 step speed. Then if operates properly. This is probably a lot easier with CAB1 remote. If I run it conventional the burn outs and revs are there all the time.

 

I only have one question for GGG. What exactly does the cam on the axle with the micro switch control. I reglued it and it does not seem to control sound. The only thing that changed is now I can run the engine 128 step speed control compared to 33 step. When I first ran the engine with DCS, it would only run 33 step. After regluing the cam, now it will run 128 step. Seems when it didn't see the micro switch actuation, it reverted back to 33 step.

 

Greg 

The 2 options I had was to remove the truck and spacer the switch. The screw was not threaded that deep in the truck and I was going to have to remove the circuit board from the chassis for access to the mounting. The other option was to file the cam down. Second option was a easier choice. After filing the tips of the cam down, it moved freely and did not need a lot of contact to actuate the switch.

 

 

IMG_20150222_221105_981

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_20150222_221105_981

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×