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Its a 22.5 degree, but as said above, you'd be better off with a ross regular (#5) and an 11 degree, or a #4 and a double slip from a track spacing standpoint. I would guess if you called steve at ross, he could probably make a 14 degree crossover from the double slip jig if you didnt want the functionality of the double slip. An O72 switch and crossover is going to require a lot of track spacing to fit.

Originally Posted by Big_Boy_4005:

Guys, this may be a space issue for Dave, and while shallower crossings and switches may be optimal, they may not fit.

 

I did get a chance to check and the switch is exactly equal to one 072 curve section.

Correct......I am trying to fit this into my track plan for the layout under construction now. I was trying to fit it in without changing LOTS of stuff and starting over for that entire side of the plan. Thanks

Originally Posted by AMCDave:
Originally Posted by Big_Boy_4005:

Guys, this may be a space issue for Dave, and while shallower crossings and switches may be optimal, they may not fit.

 

I did get a chance to check and the switch is exactly equal to one 072 curve section.

Correct......I am trying to fit this into my track plan for the layout under construction now. I was trying to fit it in without changing LOTS of stuff and starting over for that entire side of the plan. Thanks

What's your center-to-center spacing?

Actually, if you take out that small filler piece from the 11 degree, you can get the spacing of the parallel tracks to be closer. It goes down to 4", because I just did one on my layout.

 

There is a little trimming of the 22.5 that can reduce the 4 7/8" centers, but not much. The switch itself cannot be trimmed, as that will change the angle needed to keep the tracks parallel.

 

I didn't see your post because I was typing. You should be able to get that 4.5" spacing.

Last edited by Big_Boy_4005

Update!!

I was at my LHS.....3 hours away. He had great deals on what Atlas O track he had left. He was no longer going to hold shelf space on the hopes Atlas restocks it all.

And by chance he had a Atlas O 22.5 crossing....and it was marked down!!!

For the price I had to try it. Got it home and it looks like it will work PERFECT! I did not know the Altlas O rail joiners will work on Ross track! Looks like this will be easy!

Thanks for the help all!!!

Originally Posted by AMCDave:

Update!!

I was at my LHS.....3 hours away. He had great deals on what Atlas O track he had left. He was no longer going to hold shelf space on the hopes Atlas restocks it all.

And by chance he had a Atlas O 22.5 crossing....and it was marked down!!!

For the price I had to try it. Got it home and it looks like it will work PERFECT! I did not know the Altlas O rail joiners will work on Ross track! Looks like this will be easy!

Thanks for the help all!!!

All you need to do is cut the stringers on the end ties of the Ross track and slide the end ties back to join them to Atlas. Works great. We have a bunch of Atlas-Ross track connections on the club layout.

@L.I.TRAIN posted:

Dave would like to see a photo of the installation

Me too!

@AMCDave posted:

4.5" center to center.

I did download the PDF plans Ross has on his site....And was able to use them to build the area in question. Looks like 22.5 will work....may have to do some small mods on the switch. Thanks

Looking to see if Ross 072 switches and the 22.5° crossing will allow for 4.5" track centerlines. Helping a friend with their layout and this would be great in his space. He doesn't have room for the regular 11° switches.

Since he last visted in August we may never know.

Last edited by BobbyD

You will have to insert a short stub between them to get 4.5" spacing, they actually give you 4" spacing if you connect them directly. I have this configuration on my layout, but I wanted 5.5" spacing, so I have a 6.25" stub between the two switches to increase the distance.

You can also shorten the entry several inches if you want to reduce the overall length of the two switches.

If you try to do the same configuration with the Ross O72 switches, the spacing blows out to 5.5" between tracks and you introduce more of an S-curve in the process.

The clear choice, at least IMO, is using the #4 switches.

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You will have to insert a short stub between them to get 4.5" spacing, they actually give you 4" spacing if you connect them directly. I have this configuration on my layout, but I wanted 5.5" spacing, so I have a 6.25" stub between the two switches to increase the distance.

You can also shorten the entry several inches if you want to reduce the overall length of the two switches.

If you try to do the same configuration with the Ross O72 switches, the spacing blows out to 5.5" between tracks and you introduce more of an S-curve in the process.



Thanks, we are attempting this configuration

20211105_125600

Crossing over the center track with 4.5" spacing and attempting to avoid an 11° crossover. Would the #4 switch allow it? Would the 072 switch allow it?

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Last edited by BobbyD

OK, missed the fact that we were trying to cross one line.  Here's a configuration to give you 4.5" spacing using the 11 degree crossover and two #100 regular switches.  Obviously, the opposite sense could be done with two #101 switches.  The small track segments are 1.25" long between the crossover and the switches.  The total length of everything looks to be about 48" assuming you trim the ends of the switches.

3-track x-over

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  • 3-track x-over

OK, missed the fact that we were trying to cross one line.  Here's a configuration to give you 4.5" spacing using the 11 degree crossover and two #100 regular switches.  Obviously, the opposite sense could be done with two #101 switches.  The small track segments are 1.25" long between the crossover and the switches.  The total length of everything looks to be about 48" assuming you trim the ends of the switches.

3-track x-over

Thank you John. We've had a lot of derailing at a friends house with cars and engines going through the 11° crossover, want to avoid it.

Yeah we did. It is only new MTH passenger cars with the revised scale truck and two of the same diesel engines. The pickups appear to be  twisting the trucks when they run over it due to that diagonal center power rail.  With the shallow divergence the flange then has room to pick the point which causes one truck to diverge and the other to continue straight. He is on the fence between Atlas or Gargraves/Ross track and this was one of his concerns.

Last edited by BobbyD

John,

I did not say anything about compromise! I'm commenting about the prices of the other 2 crossovers vs the 11 Deg. For something with no moving parts, it seems expensive, and especially when compared to the other 2 crossovers, which at least seem reasonable. But if you need an 11 Deg, then you need an 11 Deg, and that is what you use!

To Bobby D's concern, I wonder if there is some mod that can be done to eliminate/counter the twisting effect. But you need to be careful,  as the Law of Unintended Consequences is likely to be in full effect. Then I wonder about the 4 switch crossovers. That 11 Deg is smack in the middle of them!

Chris

VLVHR

@lehighline posted:

To Bobby D's concern, I wonder if there is some mod that can be done to eliminate/counter the twisting effect. But you need to be careful,  as the Law of Unintended Consequences is likely to be in full effect. Then I wonder about the 4 switch crossovers. That 11 Deg is smack in the middle of them!

Chris

VLVHR

Chris, the problem is with the Ross design at the actual crossover part. Unfortunately it is not a one piece part like their regular double crossover and the new MTH scale passenger trucks may rotate slightly caused by the pickup rollers going over all the "bumps" and diagonal power rail where they randomly then take the diverging path when they shouldn't. Became too much of an unknown crash risk.

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