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Well, it's been a while since I have had trains on display, but I took the first step toward eliminating that this weekend. Since we bought the farm (literally) over 2.5 years ago, my trains have been packed up in boxes. So, a train room that looked like this....

 MESG room_01

 MESG room_02

 MESG room_03

 MESG room_04

... was quickly diminished to this; Train storage at the new house.

 Train Storage

 

 And yes, there are over 100 boxes just on the right side of the room, Lots more on the left.

 

At least I was smart and stacked all the train boxes in the room next to my train room, this way I can work in the train room without having to move boxes of trains. Unfortunately, time has taken its toll over the last couple of years and other things have rooted into the train room. So now I am actively working on removing said items to finally make some progress on the trains.

 

I figured it was time to start on the shelving. But the story doesn't really start there, it was a long time coming to get to this point... a lot of thinking, rethinking and figuring went into this decision. In the old train room seen above, I made all the shelving from MDF boards and I grooved them for standard gauge trains, plus a lot of 4" angle brackets. I was a good look and served me well. When I dismantled the room, I took it all with me with plans to reuse it. Well, with all the work involved with making those shelves (grooving, paint, etc), and considering my current health battles, my wife said I should look into alternative shelving; something that would be less work. When I showed her the alternatives, specifically the aluminum shelving, she was impressed and gave me the green light to move forward with this plan. Heck, I bought her a farm! (Hojack would understand how far that has gone).

 

I did a bit of research and found the 2 main players in the shelving world are: Glenn Snyder Display Systems (GSDS) and Trainshelf (http://www.trainshelf.net). Both are aluminum extrusions that can handle multiple gauges of trains, but that is not important to me as I will only be utilizing the standard gauge sizing. Some of the major differences between the two might not seem like much, but it did sway in my decision. The Trainshelf version extends past the side of the train, meaning that the trains do not stick out from the edge of the shelf. So, if you bump into the shelf you will not snag a train by accident. The GSDS shelf ends at the outermost wheel set which could lead to some trouble if not careful. I also liked the look of the Trainshelf as the train sits in grooves in the shelf and not on top of "rails" like the GSDS. This may be a personal thing, but I just like that look better for shelving.

 

Of course, the Trainshelf is a bit more costly, but maybe I could make it work. Did I mention I will need a lot of shelving? So, with a quick call to the man behind Trainshelf, Dick Wachtman, I was able to obtain a favorable bulk order discount, along with being able to pick it up to save on shipping (picked it up when I was at York). As an added bonus, since I was ordering in fairly large numbers Dick was able to supply me with lengths of shelving to suit my needs, in this case that was 8' and 6' sections with the majority of them being the 8 footers. My goal was to have as few seams as possible and to maximize my wall space. Plus it needed to fit in the truck! In the end, I ordered about 800 linear feet of shelving. Thanks to BlueComet400 for the recommending Trainshelf to me.

 

With the time change it starts getting dark very early, so I needed a good "dark time" project. This was it. Work started last week with the first wall. This is actually in another room next to the train room; the media room. This is where the big tv lives and the future home of my vinyl and cd collection... but that's for another day. The first wall has shelving 16' in width. They are spaced fairly close together, 7" from shelf top to the underneath of the next shelf. This may sound close, but it is ample room for most SG trains. In fact, most prewar SG trains are not very tall and the biggest top out around 6.5". But, I do not do prewar trains, but the more randomly-sized Modern Era Standard Gauge trains.

 

Media Room 1

With the shelves in the media room, I wanted a the trains to be the wallpaper, so I placed the shelves a little closer than I have in the past. Also, this space will be occupied mostly by McCoy and CMC/CMT type trains so I will have plenty of room for most of them. The top shelf is about 10" tall so I can put any oversized items up top. The metal shelving here is complete but I still need to add a shelf at the floor and an vertical end panel to cover the sharp edges. The floor shelf will comprise of the MDF boards I harvested from the old train room with a small 2.5" kick plate added. The end panels will be made from MDF boards with some grooves routed out to accept the shelf ends and are only needed on the open ends of the shelving. The MDF boards will be painted white to blend in with the walls for a clean look.

 

 Media Room 2

On the opposite wall of the media room, I have added shelves above the couch only. These are also 16' long. I had planned to go all the way down like the other wall, but have currently reconsidered. Right now, the couch is more important in the room than the trains. Also, since I originally planned on only 8 shelves per wall I was already well past that mark. With the 4 shelves I am leaving off this wall (eight 8' sections total) I can finish all the walls I planned on from the start.... I think.

 

Now, on to the train room! This weekend the weather was cold and rainy. With little work that could be done out on the farm, we decided to focus on shelving. With the help of my brother (who was in town for the weekend) and our resident farmhand, Jason, we made quick work of a couple more walls. First is the 16' wall of shelves. This wall is the opposite side of the wall of the media room's "couch" wall.

 Train Room 1

The spacing on these shelves are a bit different from the other room. I needed to have shelves able to accommodate many trains of differing heights. This decision was not an easy one. So many factors and things to consider. What made it harder was that all my trains are packed away so I was unable to check train heights. So, a few friends helped out with some measurements. The majority of the shelves are spaced at 7.5" and the top three are a bit more; 8", 9" and 10" at the top. The other consideration for shelf placement was to make the light switches and outlets clear the shelving. All the main shelving in this room will be like this. There may be small sections of wall shelving that I may change the spacing, but I am not there yet. As a side note, I needed a quick weight test, so that is why the homemade diesel train is up there. I have nicknamed it "the Beast" for obvious reasons. The loco itself weighs in around 14 pounds and served this test well. For comparison, there is a McCoy steam locomotive underneath.

 

A few notes about my new train room, it is nicely sized at about 34'x19' but is plagued by windows and doors; Six doors and two large windows. So to say that wall space is at a premium would be an understatement.And I need all the shelf space I can get.

 

 Train Room 2

 

The first of the end walls was next to receive the shelves. These end walls will have 14' of shelving as seen above. This picture was taken during the install process showing my brother hard at work on the left and Jason manning the screw gun. This wall was a bugger. Not a very straight wall, so a lot of shimming was needed and took a bit longer.

 

A bit about the shelf install process. In a perfect world (or straight wall) the shelves go up very easily. They mount to the studs via screws. I opted to screw into every stud as I have some heavy trains. I used a #8 cabinet screw, these have the little washer attached to the screw head for a nice clean look. If you tighten the screw too much, it can twist the shelf. A little adjustment with shims and tightening/loosening the screws will make the shelf sit straight. I found that the easiest way to drill the holes into the shelf was to make a jig to drill onto a piece of wood. It is also a bit messy with all the chips flying, so I did it outside. Maybe I'll post a couple pictures of the process. Overall, they are very easy to put up and with a few simple hand tools anyone can do this.

 

I will keep you up to date on the progress. Right now, the rain has ceased so we are catching up on some farm chores. When I get back to the train room I will update this post.

 

Keep in mind, this was all my wife's idea! She's the best.

 

ARNO

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Last edited by moderneraSG
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Originally Posted by moderneraSG:

Keep in mind, this was all my wife's idea! 

 

 

Oh sure, blame it on Carolyn!

She is right, of course (that goes without saying); trying to re-use the old shelving would be an example of what my dad used to call "false economy" – seems like a savings and what you should do, but turns out not to be.  Not only is the new shelving faster and less wear-and-tear on you, but it's also a more efficient use of the space.  And it's not like the old shelving would have fit the new space without extensive rebuilding anyway.

 

The pictures of your previous display space with all that white-on-white are so impressive that I thought it would be a hard act to follow.  But you certainly seem to be succeeding!  The minimal, clean lines of the aluminum shelving will all but disappear leaving the rows of colorful trains floating one above the other.  "Train wallpaper" is right!  Wow!

 

800 feet.... that's  .15  miles!

 

david

 

 

 

 

When you need wall space, windows and doors are not your friend!

 

David, I think the "false economy" thing was going thru my head... but just didn't realize it. Nice to know there is a term for it. The other part of the equation is the fact that when I am done with these shelves (whenever that will be) they still hold a value for what they are. The wooden shelves are just a pile of firewood at this point (technically, not even as you shouldn't burn MDF).

 

Which comes to another point, anyone need any 4" angle brackets? I have hundreds!

 

ARNO

Looks great Arno--you're definitely making the most out of the space.

 

How fortunate we are to have wives who are supportive of this great hobby. I was going to make my own shelves out of wood, and my wife gets all the credit for the fact that our train room has aluminum shelves. When you get your wife's blessing on something like this, you better go for it--before she changes her mind.

 

I'm very interested in the design of your end boards--please post shots of those, and with your permission, I'll probably end up copying it. Great seeing you at York.

 

 

John

Thanks Joe. Yes, there has been progress and I shall update you on it. I have been sidelined a bit with some health issues and that has thwarted my forward progress a whole bunch. But, I can say that I have mounted all the shelving I had on the wall and still need some more. Since the shelf spacing for each wall was changed from what I  originally allocated, I knew I would need more in the end. As I attacked each wall, I wanted to make sure it would accommodate what  I planned for that wall. Even though what goes on what wall is fairly open for discussion, I do have ideas of certain items.

Here is one of the short walls. It is roughly 5-1/2' long and the shelf spacing is the tightest of them all: 6-1/4". This one still needs an end panel. This shelf will most likely have a bunch of small SG trains on it, so I opted for the tight spacing. If I need a taller shelf, there are plenty of others in the train room. Even so, the tight spacing still is enough room for some of the larger cars, like the blue and brown box cars 5 shelves up from the bottom. These are Forney box cars and are a good size. Larger than Lionel 200 series cars and McCoy box cars. So the tight spacing isn't as much as a handicap as one might think.

IMG_3910

The two 14' end walls are done. The large windows along the back wall are offset from the side walls differently with the one being a few inches from the corner and the other having a 2-1/2' wall space. Thus, I utilized the 2-1/2' wall and this is the only place in the room that I have to worry about corners. Every other shelf is bordered by a wall or a door and is a single span if you will.

IMG_3905

I originally had a straight cut on the corner shelf but did not like the way it looked. The shelf face has a slight angle and therefore made for a bit of a gap. I decided to back cut the short corner shelf that was butting up against the shelf face by about 10 degrees. This helped a lot. Now when I looked at it, I didn't see the shadow from the gap. It's not perfect, but it doesn't draw your attention away either.

IMG_3907

The corner worked out well and I obviously followed the same spacing as the side wall. Here's where it changes a bit. The wall on the other side of the window (between window and back door) is just over 6' and I planned on having 6' sections in that area. The bottom 3 shelves below the window will run the full length, from the corner to the door, I think it was around 14-1/2' long. On the 6' side of the window, I decided to go with a tighter shelf spacing. Even though it is on the same wall as the short corner pieces, the large window disconnects the two areas. This will most likely be my main trolley wall.

IMG_3908

I didn't have enough shelving to complete this wall, but put up what I had. Need a couple shelves up top and a couple at the bottom. The wall on the other side of the back door is just over 8' and I will be figuring out the spacing soon. The problem with that wall is the exhaust pipe that put in when the house was built. This was in case we wanted to have a wood stove down there. We have one on the main level of the house and it is plenty. I will need to figure out how to work the shelves around the stub end of this pipe. I have a few ideas in mind. Luckily, since I don't have material to do it yet I don't need to figure it out right this second. Once those walls are finished, the walls will all be done.

IMG_3909

One of the things I wanted to get done sooner than later was the end caps for the shelves. Most of these shelves dead end by a door opening and could be a bit dangerous to the unknowing. The shelf ends are sharp. They are, after all, metal and have some sharp corners. This could be found out if you turned the corner too quickly and brushed up against the shelves. So, my original concept always had an end panel.

IMG_2825

Here's what I did. I used a 1x6 MDF board for the end panel. These can be had at the local Home Depot and come primed all around. I used these for my shelves in the last train room. It is easy to work with. I cut the board to length so it would fit nicely from floor to ceiling. Then I marked the position of the shelves. This is where I would route out the basic profile of the shelf. I found that using a 1/2" router bit worked perfectly as the shelf would fit in this groove. I made it about 1/4" to 3/8" deep. With the grooves routed I mounted it to the end of the shelf. Figuring a way to hold it in place was another tough one. I ended up keeping it simple using a small angle bracket, screwing it into the MDF and attached it to the shelf with a nut and bolt. I have 4 or 5 brackets on each end panel. Overkill, but at least I know it is not going anywhere. Now I will need to wait until it warms up a bit so I can paint them, that may not happen until the spring time. I have a few more end panels to do but the main ones are done. Now we can turn the corner without worry!

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My brother came down for Christmas and helped me get some trains out of the boxes. We made a pretty good dent. In the few weeks afterwords I was able to get a few more things out and on the shelf. As of now, they are about 80% full. I am not going to post any pictures of full walls of trains yet as the room is totally torn apart but I will once I get it straighten up. Of course that is not happening right now as I can only muster up about 15-20 seconds of standing before the back pain sets in. It will be a slow process but trains are on the shelves!

Hopefully I will be able to get to the rest of the trains soon.

ARNO

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Nice work Arno, that's a lot of mileage when you add it all up!  Great use of even the shorter sections of wall.  I'm amazed that you can put Forney box cars in 6-1/4" spacing, but they look great!  Also the end caps are the crowning touch - looks like a lot of extra work but they really trim it up.

As for the stove pipe wall thimble, I guess it depends how far out from the wall it protrudes.  If it's only about half the depth of a shelf, you might notch the back of a shelf piece and just run it over the thimble: you won't be able to get a train on the shallow part of shelf, but you probably have some small train things, crossing gates or whatever that would fit.  

Otherwise, just stop the shelves on each side of the thimble and cover it with this:

lionel_share

Okay, maybe not?

d

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moderneraSG posted:

When you need wall space, windows and doors are not your friend!

 

David, I think the "false economy" thing was going thru my head... but just didn't realize it. Nice to know there is a term for it. The other part of the equation is the fact that when I am done with these shelves (whenever that will be) they still hold a value for what they are. The wooden shelves are just a pile of firewood at this point (technically, not even as you shouldn't burn MDF).

 

Which comes to another point, anyone need any 4" angle brackets? I have hundreds!

 

ARNO

Hi Arno,

Let's you and I talk about those extra 4" brackets, I'll send you an email. Thanks.

Paul

For the wood stove cap. How about a metal Lionel or Fallen Flag sign round in shape placed over the black cap? If you really wanted that stove cap to be hidden yet pop with color, I was thinking a Lionel or other bright Neon round wall clock that would fit nicely over the cap. Just a thought

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