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I recently saw a video of an HO scaler who swore by this trick.  He added transmission fluid (with a barely whetted finger) to a one inch stretch of both rails to enhance contact reliability.  Keep in mind, it's a very small amount, and relies on the trains wheels to distribute the fluid over the layout.  I've tried this on all three rails of a 027 post war train just for fun, and it works to a point.  It certainly increases electrical reliability, but severely impedes tractive effort.  I've recently used it on only the center rail of my 3-rail trolley lines (a point to point with a spiral, and a simple loop).  The increase in electrical reliability is substantial, and the tractive effort is unaffected.  Both are run conventional with DCS control (one is a Western Hobbycraft purely conventional and the other MTH PS1.  I was thinking this would be really beneficial for other 3 rail conventional, especially post war engines with slides instead of rollers.  Anybody else tried this trick?

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The fluid never touches the traction rails or tires.  It's only applied to the center rail.  There would be contamination from center rail to traction (outer) rails whenever the trains negotiate turnouts.  That's why I have restricted this application to simple loops (no turnouts) and point to point operation (without sidings).  My point to point trolley negotiates a spiral with a fairly steep grade with no loss of traction. 

Hi Patapsco Pete,

 

    I have heard this before and bought a product called "Rail Zip," which is supposed to do something similar.  Does anyone know exactly why transmission fluid improves electrical connectivity?  (The Rail Zip is still in its bottle.  I bought it for my American Flyer trackage because the Flyer's tender wheels always spark excessively, no matter what I do.)

 

Take care, Joe

Last edited by Joe Rampolla

I've heard of using transmission fluid, automatic transmission fluid (ATF) specifically, to increase electrical conductivity in the past; I seem to recall reading somewhere that most oils have conductivity to varying degrees, depending on the type of oil, polarity of the oil, and additives that are in the oil.

 

It's been a while, but last time I saw some RailZip firsthand, the first thing that struck me is that it virtually resembles ATF enough to make me think it actually is, albeit re-branded as a track cleaner.

Originally Posted by PatapscoPete:

 The increase in electrical reliability is substantial, and the tractive effort is unaffected.

Hi Patapsco Pete,

 

Thanks for the tip!  It just may be the ticket for Lionel handcar issues, if I could keep it off of the traction tires.  I have been going through traction tires like mad lately, guess it is the WD 40 or similar oily film.

 

Take care, Joe.

I have previously commented favorably on the use of ATF as a method of improving electrical conductivity.

 

My observation is based on its use on HO layouts using DCC. Prior to ATF application there were often issues associated with dirty track - jerky movements, stalling, and  failure of DCC signaling. Application was by dampening - not wetting - a cotton swab and wiping both rails over a length of a foot or so. A couple of laps and the trains operated flawlessly. This application is done maybe twice a year on layouts that see regular use.

 

I started using it on my three rail layouts. On O gauge, after a year or so of applying ATF to all three rails, I did experience some traction tire failures - mainly stretching and subsequently being thrown off. On my standard gauge trains there are no traction tires, but I did have some serious traction issues on heavy trains - five big passenger cars, or four/five heavy AF freight cars. No other problems have been encountered.

 

I continue the use of ATF, but apply it only to the center rail. It has virtually eliminated flickering in seldom-run rolling stock and in pre- and post-war items. Even new passenger cars have had flickering problems resolved by using ATF. The rollers are cleaner, and the center rail is easier to wipe clean.

 

I remain convinced that it can be safely and effectively used on the center rail for the purposes mentioned above - the improvement of signal flow where applicable and general electrical conductivity.

What I know about transmission fluid is that it is very slippery and has no electrical conductivity that I have ever heard of unless it has a severe breakdown from being too old. You may never get it completely off the track!

As for transmission fluid eating paint or plastic I have no information on that as I am always careful not to spill it and if I do spill it to wipe up any fluids I use very quickly to include engine oil.

 

Lee Fritz

Having been an auto guy, there is no way I would ever let ATF near my trains.  It is extremely flammable!  Not to mention that it strips paint and eats plastic and some rubbers.  And saying you only put it on the center rail doesn't stop the issues, as the fumes from ATF as just as bad.  It's also a very thin oil, so it'll sling all over, unseen, and drip down under the track too.  That is why it works so well to improve electrical contact, it covers everything removing any tiny air gaps or dirt gaps that prevent the flow of power.  But IMHO it is not worth the costs for how it could improve things.  I'd rather just keep my track and wheels clean and shiny.

Originally Posted by FlyerRich:

I have used Railzip on Gilbert AF track with excellent results. The key is that only a slight amount is necessary. Put a couple of drops on a rag and that is good for at least 20 feet. You shouldn't be able to even see it on the rails but conductivity is vastly improved and "sparking" is nonexistent.

Hi Flyer Rich,

 

     Since I already have the Rail Zip product (which may -not- be transmission fluid), I will give it a shot on the S gauge Flyer tracks, sparingly, as you said.  Thanks for the advice!!  Been sitting in the bottle for about 3 years -- hope it did not go bad.

 

Take care, Joe.

Last edited by Joe Rampolla

I've done it. If your track is REALLY gunked up it will get it off.

They used ATF to clean a lot of things in the auto plants.

 

That being said, use it as a cleaner only. Yup every thing will slip

ofter applying. NEXT step is to clean it up with some WD40 to remove

the ATF.

 

Due to the weather up here my super streets track became rusty.

I leave the window open and the humidity just had a field day.

The only thing that worked for me was the ATF WD40 method.

 

I would not do this on a regular basis but it saved me from having to tear up

the track....

 

 Let the grumbling begin...

 

 Bruce..

The Rail Zip serves its purpose, BUT really gets everything very dirty, very quick. We used it on the overhead G Scale layout at the hobby shop I worked at in the 90's. Never had contact issues up there, but man everything was black and full of crud.

 

I wouldn't use it.... just clean your track  

I am a You Tube Junkie, and found this video. This is in HO scale and he puts transmission fluid on his track. He says he read about the procedures in a Model Train Magazine. He claims it does not damage the plastic ties.

Take a look, not for my layout.

Automatic Transmission Fluid (As per Model Railroader May 2011) on the track.

 

Last edited by trainroomgary

I've seen some comments about using it only on the center rail.  The problem is that unless you have no turnouts and crossings the rollers will leave some of the fluid on the outer rails as they cross the outer rails at turnouts and crossings.  It may not be very much, but over time it will collect on the outer rails.

 

Stuart

 

 

Transmission fluid has a high percentage of detergents in it. Some use it mixed with motor oil to flush out the sludge from an old engine. Might be OK to clean the rails and then wiped off. I doubt a thin film of it would hurt anything if traction tires are not involved but there are better ways to clean the track.

 

Pete

Originally Posted by Stoshu:

I've done it. If your track is REALLY gunked up it will get it off.

They used ATF to clean a lot of things in the auto plants.

 

That being said, use it as a cleaner only. Yup every thing will slip

ofter applying. NEXT step is to clean it up with some WD40 to remove

the ATF.

 

Due to the weather up here my super streets track became rusty.

I leave the window open and the humidity just had a field day.

The only thing that worked for me was the ATF WD40 method.

 

I would not do this on a regular basis but it saved me from having to tear up

the track....

 

 Let the grumbling begin...

 

 Bruce..

Well, if Bruce uses it on his Super Street track, it must work without damaging plastic.  There is substantial discussion on Kalmbach's Model Railroader forum, over many years, about how and why it works, and how to use it correctly.  Seems certain HO people swear by it. 

 

And I am sure Bruce wouldn't let anything dangerous near his Snoopy handcar!

 

Take care, Joe.

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