Updated Progress on Frame Work

looks like you are off to a good start!

Go with 2 x 2s for legs.  They are sufficiently strong and takes up less space.  Also, you are doing a great framing job.  Suggestion:  When you place your legs onto your frame place them back about 16 to 18 inches where someone won't either kick or trip on them when they are close to the layout.

Hi John and Rich,

Thanks for the Vote of Confidence.
I have already purchased and cut the 2x4,s so I will use them. I felt they were more sturdy especially that I am putting all the legs on wheels. I want to be able to get behind the setup if I have to get to anything in the ceiling or the plumbing drain thing on the wall.

I am anchoring each leg to a 3 gang wheel assembly with a 1/2 inch piece of plywood base and a 3 inch lag bolt from underneath to hold the legs to the wheels.

More pictures later tonite once the framework is off the floor.

I am building the legs now, and yes I also just told my bride that we would put each leg inside the second brace of the frame so nobody would kick them. I also plan to brace all the legs with a 1x4 going from leg to leg for extra support, especially once again because it's going to roll.

This is a brilliant idea!  A great way for future access.

Is there a specific reason for the directional placement of the cross-members in the elbow? Does that make it easier to place risers for curved track sections?

How are you going to lift the frame so you can attach the legs? I used 2x4s for legs and sank lag bolts into the bottoms for an adjustable foot. Makes it easy to level the finished surface.

Don't you just love to frame? If I wasn't too old to start a new career I'd be a framing carpenter.

Hi Dave,

You now what you do when your back is hurting and something is NOT working out right..That's Right !! You STOP and take a break and talk to nice guy's like yourself.

I need a break. I purchased the wrong size nuts and bolts today at Tractor Supply. I can not hang the legs tonight as I planned in my head.

So Here I sit..

My wife and daughter just helped me lift the whole thing up and I put a few 1x10,s across the horses and that's where the framework is sitting now. I planned on putting all the legs on and put it down tonight, but tomorrow is a new day.

The frame is not heavy at all because I built it out of 1x4,s. Plenty strong enough.

I also ran a temporary 1x4 across the back and one side to keep the pieces from bending while we lifted the frame up. That worked 100%..Once it's all set up I will remove those pieces.

Bill, You bring up a good point I did not think of. ALL my legs are 32 inches from the floor to the top of the frame work. I just realized my concrete floor under the Forever Floor is not perfectly level. I am actually glad I had to stop so I can think of how to work this glitch out. My plan is to have the layout 33 inches off the floor once the plywood and homosote boards are in place. Both me and my wife are shorter than usual so we wanted it a bit lower to see everything better.

As far as the direction of the frame work, I just built it as I went. I worked around the Blue Tape I put on the floor to keep me in line with the layout size. I just built around the pop up whole and that how I did it. It is strong for sure. I hung on the sides and it did not bend at all, and I ain't no lightweight.
Just short and Cute!!

Dave also remember I am putting all my legs on wheels, so I have another issue for leveling that I have to sit here and figure out.

Time for a cool drink and some deep thought.

Here are a few pictures to show what I did with the legs/wheels

Catch up with you guys tomorrow.

Brian:

I'm sure you probably plan on it, but be sure to put bracing on those legs in all directions because as I'm sure you're aware that when you roll it the legs when bend and put undue pressure on the boards that they are attached to.

John

PS....like the wheels.

Brian,

Just thinking out loud, what if you drilled the bottom of a leg to accept a 1/4" T-Nut and used a 1/4" carriage bolt for an adjustable foot? It looks like it would sit right in the center hole of the caster. Do you really need to attach the caster to the leg?

I would say it would depend upon how securely it would be inside of the caster; and how free your floor is and how smooth it is.  

Hi Guys and Gals if there are any out there.

OK The Framework is done..Check check..

The Framewrok is OFF the floor and sitting on it's own 9 legs.

All the wheels are attached and it rolls like a dream.

I still have a few braces to install, need One 1x12 picked up tomorrow at the lumber yard. I want to run One Solid piece across the back 11 feet section.

I also decided while I was sitting under the layout that I would install a few shelfs for all the empty boxes,and I would do that towards the two back corners out of the way of everything, even when I have to crawl under there for the wiring. If I would have made the legs One Inch taller I could have sat under there with no Head Lean. My overall height after the plywood and Homosote Boards go on will be 33 1/2 inches off the floor. Here are the pictures of our work today.

Any ?? or ideas....Just let them rip..

Brian

Congratulations on your framing progress.

You can save quite a bit of crawling under by "roughing-in" much of your basic railpower wire runs before covering up the framing grid. Based on your track plan and the train control system you plan to use[TMCC, DCS,Conventional], you can install the basic wire runs.

It is much easier to do while standing as opposed to getting a case of "train back" or "train neck" from working underneath.

Dewey, Your my hero

Brian,

How did you address the leveling issue? Not enough to worry about? Looks like you went ahead with the original leg plan.

Better to move forward than over think the problem.

Now, listen to Dewey. Get busy putting some holes in those cross supports and start pulling wire.

It looks great!  And I'm glad that it rolls well.  You were really smart for planning on how to reach all areas on your layout.  Planning for the boxes hanging underneath is great as well.  Even though my layout doesn't roll, I'm going to get the boxes off the floor.  It will make it look better and will be easier to clean!

Hi Dewey,

That is a great Idea, BUT, I am not sure what to run and where just yet. I have the layout I "think" I am going to do but not 100% sure.

Like I have to think about Un-coupling tracks on the sides, switch tracks and how many, lighting for several areas of the layout and so on.

Our layout is NOT going to have a city Theme. We are going Full scenery and mountains and hills. I will have One passenger terminal, One Hobo Village (ya gotta have that Right!!), a farm will go where my Pop-Out Whole is going to be, and the rest is not planned just yet. So I am not sure what to run. I have all the stuff like power strips, wire (6 different colors) wire hangers, light towers X2 and a Strobe Light also.

I think that's all I have for you right now.

Moonman,

I only had to make (2) of the Wheels/Legs adjustable for the floor variations. Luckily one of them was buried in the far back corner where the mountain will go. The other lift in the floor is on the Right front side. What I did was cut the whole for the nut and bolt. Then I cut 2 more wholes directly under the 1st one. I then chisled out the 3 wholes and made a sought of slide, so I can move the leg up and down to get the best fit so the table rolls smooth. It rolls so good that I will have to put a brake on one or two of the front wheel assemblies. **** I'm good at somethings.

Run the buss right down the center, around the access hatch to the back, and down the center.

One color for each power division(separate lines), black for common, one color for accessories and one color for operating for operating tracks and switches. Two different voltages may be needed. Then your feeders when you decide.

I second Moonman.  One thing I've discovered over the years is to color-code your wire and even mark every single hole you drill with a wire in it.  It's a pain but it's one of those things that sooner or later you'll be glad that you did.