@Dave_C posted:The Weaver USRA 4-6-2’s were originally K-Line engines. I thought they shared some parts with the USRA Mikados. Could the pilot be the same as the Lionel Legacy Light Mikados ? If so. If your not happy with the repair. Wait till the fall for their half price parts sale.
I think you mean Williams?, not Kline,….as Pete mentioned, Kline made diecast metal steamers, not sheet brass construction,…..Williams Crown Edition 4-6-2’s have an awful lot of resemblance to Weaver brass,…
Pat
Tom, I get a surprising amount of uses out of a set of tubes, I'll bet easily 40 to 50 batches or more for a set. I always keep one new set of JB-Weld and JB-Kwik handy, when I crack the new set, I order another one.
I haven’t read anyone’s responses to this thread. I would contact the seller and send them photos of the damage. If they don’t offer a partial refund voluntarily, I would file an item not as described case. I like items that are in the condition photographed. It is the seller’s responsibility to get the merchandise to you safely and intact.
I personally would not keep it. The disappointment of it being broken is insurmountable to me.
The poster never mentioned brass. I don’t remember Weaver doing a brass N&W Pacific. They did a large run of diecast ones in multiple road names including Norfolk and Western. Weaver product with K-Line cruise. I was told K-line couldn’t pay the tab from the overseas builder and Weaver picked them up. They may have even decorated them here. Not sure who has the tooling for these but a replacement pilot may be out there.
O-Gauge CJ , You mentioned moving the bell to the top of the boiler per N&W. I’m guessing you have the same engine pictured below. Mine was re done into a Rutland. Mine needed to be moved back to be a little more accurate. The holes for the bracket in the boiler front can be filled in with JB Weld. I used a stock Lionel bracket and bell. It even has the slot provided to fit the boiler seam. You will need to drill 2 small holes.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Tom, I get a surprising amount of uses out of a set of tubes, I'll bet easily 40 to 50 batches or more for a set. I always keep one new set of JB-Weld and JB-Kwik handy, when I crack the new set, I order another one.
Yes, the main one that I've used is still going strong after several years. You may be able to tell the packaging is slightly different than today's packaging. My old package has some seepage coming out of the tubes, but still has enough product to make them worth keeping and it still works fine. I just like inventory (and things that work well)!
Tom
JohnAction, I was referring to the 600 degree F posted failure temperature of traditional JB Weld. If you use it for a repair, you don't have to worry about it failing until you reach that temperature for 10 minutes.
Bob, you mention that you haven't found anything yet that is stronger than Gorilla brand super glue. JB Weld derives its strength from filings of steel that are premixed into the epoxy when you buy it. It is commonly used to repair steel automobile and tractor parts, and has been used to repair cracks in engine blocks. Perhaps superglue is stronger than this, but I would tend to doubt it.
I guess that the bottom line is that either of these products would be much stronger than ever really needed to affix the cow catcher to the loco. :-)
Mannyrock
Gorilla Super Glue tensile strength is 3200 PSI. JB Weld tensile strength is 5020 PSI. ‘nough said.
Whats the rush on the repair? The OP may own this engine the rest of his life. Whats a few hours saved by using an inferior adhesive?
Sign in my Dad’s shop,
”Why is there never time to do it right but always time to do it again?”
Pete
@Norton posted:Gorilla Super Glue tensile strength is 3200 PSI. JB Weld tensile strength is 5020 PSI. ‘nough said.
Whats the rush on the repair? The OP may own this engine the rest of his life. Whats a few hours saved by using an inferior adhesive?
Sign in my Dad’s shop,
”Why is there never time to do it right but always time to do it again?”
Pete
Sign in my shop says do the job right so you can come back tomorrow,……..😄
Pat
3200 psi vs. 5020 psi is missing the point - either of them is way beyond being strong enough for that repair. The right question to ask is what product can be used to make the most aesthetically pleasing / invisible repair.
@Mallard4468 posted:3200 psi vs. 5020 psi is missing the point - either of them is way beyond being strong enough for that repair. The right question to ask is what product can be used to make the most aesthetically pleasing / invisible repair.
Ain’t missing the point,….the point is, the super glue ain’t got the strength to take even the slightest bump and not bust off,…..it’s just too fragile for this fix,….super glue has it’s purpose, but not the strongest fit for this repair,…..if this were a permanent shelf display piece, never to be touched again, then yeah,…super glue it and move on, …..but a pilot hanging out on front street being used, constantly in the line of fire is a different story,….
Pat
@Mallard4468 posted:3200 psi vs. 5020 psi is missing the point - either of them is way beyond being strong enough for that repair. The right question to ask is what product can be used to make the most aesthetically pleasing / invisible repair.
I use CA adhesive to glue on my Chuff-Generator to the shim on the motor. If I need to remove it, I can just grab it and twist it off.
When I repair things with JB-Weld, I can't pull them apart the same way.
@Mallard4468 posted:3200 psi vs. 5020 psi is missing the point - either of them is way beyond being strong enough for that repair. The right question to ask is what product can be used to make the most aesthetically pleasing / invisible repair.
For comparison, 60-40 soft solder has a tensile strength of around 8400 PSI at 70F. Even that was not strong enough to keep the pilot from breaking off.
Pete
@Mallard4468 posted:3200 psi vs. 5020 psi is missing the point - either of them is way beyond being strong enough for that repair. The right question to ask is what product can be used to make the most aesthetically pleasing / invisible repair.
@Norton posted:For comparison, 60-40 soft solder has a tensile strength of around 8400 PSI at 70F. Even that was not strong enough to keep the pilot from breaking off.
Pete
Not sure I should hop on this one since I am not quite sure what I see when I look at the original photo posted by O-Gauge Cj. What I think I see is no solder on the mating surface and solder piled up on the back edge. If what I think I see is correct the solder did not fail under tension but rather shear along a thin edge of solder. Not much shear strength on any lead based solder. If I were to venture a guess the box the loco was in was bounced on the end the loco was facing and the thin edge of solder acted like a hinge. Depending on the room available I might try and make a gusset to spread the load on two planes. Should the pilot be crammed into something again. Maybe CJ is lucky it broke the way it did. About par, another beautiful piece of brass leaving behind a trail of broken parts and hearts. I have'em and I love'em. I hate them too. j
You're right John, a number of ways to skin this cat. However, I am not a fan of CA adhesive for this kind of repair, enough said.
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