vinyl letters ++

Hey Joe (that reminds me of a song title) that looks fantastic.  If you ever start producing those I'll take one.  But, BTW, there is a guy (Kirkville Locomotive Works) on ebay that is making cabs with one of those 3D printers.  He has an F40Ph and another one (can't remember what) that he has up for sale.  He says he coming out with the whole kit in G (1/29)scale.  Check it out. 

Rick 

I think a feature that automatically locks threads after 120 days was recently activated here. Rich said he could unlock them by request if needed. I think he has since turned it off, but what was locked is still locked. You might ask him to unlock it and I'm sure he would.

And that's an amazing model. I don't know how you guys do all this scratch building, amazing!

Well.....it helps to have good drawings and a reference loco nearby! I kind of amazed myself at first with how good I thought it was. Then, I ran into several road blocks. Getting help from others when you can't do something. I had the (cooling?) fans built. I got the vinyl letters too. Some things are a little crooked. If you even use a one foot rule, then it's pretty good.

 Still working on converting the GE frame to EMD, adding jack pads?, and adding lines and hoses.

(Rick, I might just sell U this one someday soon! but it's 1/32)

Joe,

Thanks for the link!  I just got my 1st G scale engine (Bachmann 4-6-0) and am trying to bookmark as many links as I can.

All I have so far is the engine and have it apart right now, fixing a couple of things that were broken (bought it used). I plan on painting/lettering it for a fictitious RR, maybe something like "PORTSMOUTH & VICKSBURG".

That diesel must be HUGE

 Bob, I have a ton of links for G scale and I'm into it deep. Welcome to G!!

Now you've opened a new direction to sink your money into. I would love to see how you step up the model.

 This diesel is just like 2"- longer than the Dash 8 that I removed the chassis from.

I probably should have made it in 1/29 for the WOW factor that everyone seems to like. Most of my engines are 1/32, so I wanted it to match. I personally prefer 1/32 scale on the standard track. Some equipment is 1/20 and needs to be run alone, like a narrow gauge RR.

 I didn't realize how much bigger 1/29 was until I mixed passenger equipment with 1/32. It doesn't work.

 So for me, picking a scale/gauge inside of G, is the start of working with this stuff. None of the brand's couplers, heights, and designs, seem to work well with another. I had to create a standard across my RR, to intermingle equipment brands with.

Yeah, the scale-within-a-scale thing with G has me confused.  I think the 4-6-0 is 22.5:1 so I'll attempt to keep anything I buy in that scale.

I'm not even sure this engine runs.  Once I get it painted I'll fire it up and maybe buy some track (any suggestions?).  Then maybe a couple of cars and a caboose.

 The best deal on track to me, is Gargraves. The trouble is that it's gauged tighter than anything else I have. It's also hollow and doesn't take abuse.

 If your staying inside, it's much different than outside. Stainless track is great outside, but the price is crazy. (I'm thinking of selling mine!) I'm looking into Train-li's NP track in the future.

 Brass track has some good advantages inside, when it's solid. The price on Aristo brass is also going thru the roof.

 Some guys use aluminum track because it's cheap and it lasts. They run battery power so it doesn't matter what type material the track is made of. I decided for track power because of the number of engines I run in a train. I just may switch......

Thanks Joe!

I was going to use my old Aristo-Craft Train Engineer, left over from my HO days, and a 12vdc computer power supply.  But I've always wanted to go battery/RC and here's my chance.  If I have to buy a new power supply/control I'll go batt/RC for sure, just have to contact Tony Walsham in Australia.

I'll check Gargraves out, didn't know they made G scale track.