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    If anyone can help I am looking to get about 20 double pole double throw switches, 20 green ,20 red LEDS and about 40 to 50 white LEDS and the diodes or resistors that go with them. I went to R S web site and some of the prices seemed A little high to me.  Does anyone have A good web site for bulk electronic supplies? Thanks in advance. Choo Choo Kenny

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    Laidoffsick  Thanks for the info. Hopefully I can pick your brain some more? Back in 2012 you were talking with other OGR members about DPDT switches and you were going to order non centering switches. I am no wiring genus but what is the difference between centering and non centering switches and witch ones do I want for my control panel? please help Choo Choo Kenny

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

For quantities of LED's, I typically find deals on eBay that will beat most other vendors.  It's a bit harder to find them, but they exist.

 

Look for different quantities from the same vendor. Big saving on quantities. I usually just look at buy it now.

For common electronic parts, I find the cheapest source as a rule.  I stock quantities of a wide  variety of LEDs and stuff like diodes and resistors so that shipping time isn't a factor.  I also find that common parts like resistors and capacitors are so cheap at Digikey and Mouser than I can buy quantities from them and get them in a day or two if needed.

    laidoffsick  thanks for the info. Now since I don't remember(I'm always righting myself notes) what resistor / diode do I need for A 3mm LED? If gunrunnerjohn wants to chime in or if you can answer me thank you! I don't know what I would do without  all of everyone's help on here. Thank you all so much and I am sorry for being so much of A pain in the butt. Choo Choo Kenny

Diode is chosen for brightness at full power. Note that you need more of red than green, it's just the way our eyes work.

Look around, some LEDS give more light at the same current.

Cost is also a factor there.

I then derate/reduce current by 10 to 30% for long life.

Resistor is chosen by formula with voltage and LED current desired as inputs.

There are on line calculators for the resistor values.

The resistor is simple once you know what voltage you have.  If you have AC and are sticking a diode in series with it, just figure half the voltage.

 

After that, the lowest you want to go on the resistor is 50 ohms for each volt you need to drop.  We're shooting for a maximum of 20ma for the LED's, which is by far the most common current rating of most of the LED's you will encounter.

 

So, if I have a 12VDC source, and I have a white LED which drops 3V, which is typical for white or blue LED's, here you go.  I have 9 volts to lose across the resistor, so 9 * 50 if 450.  Since a 470 ohm resistor is very common, that's a good choice.

 

If you want the LED's not as bright, like markers on your locomotive or tender, just raise the resistance, more is always fine, less will overload the LED's.

 

Kenny, I dont think you mentioned what you are wiring up, but if you are doing the Tortoise Switch Machines like I did it, you don't need any resistors. I powered the machines with a 12 volt walwart and the Tortoise has a built in resistor to protect the LEDs for the control panel.

    Here I go again 10,000 questions because I don't know what I am doing. Laidoffsick I looked up toggle  switches and came up with this (all switches are DPDT) ON/ON , ON/OFF , ON/OFF/ON , momentary center off both sides (ON)/OFF/(ON) and momentary one side on ON/(ON) I am guessing the ON/ON switch is the one I want to buy? I think you were asking about the LED I want them wired up on the control panel GREEN straight RED switching. My power supply is A K-LINE multi volte power supply DC current I am going to use the 12V hook up. Thank you for helping me out and I hope you can answer me back about the switch.     gunrunnerjohn Hopefully you will help me. What is the difference between (LED) clear and defused? I have seen people post pictures on here and the LED they used have A blue sort of color to them and I don't like that very much. What is the difference between white water clear, warm white water clear and pure white water clear? The colored flashing LED some are 2 lead some are 3 lead? Now for the resistors I tried to find A 470 but they had 1/2 watt, 1/4 watt, 1/8 watt resistors what am I looking for?  Thanks for helping hopefully you will answer my new questions.  Choo Choo Kenny

Defused and clear just indicate what the finish of the LED is, the defused is a mat finish that defuses the light, the clear concentrates the light more in one direction.  As far as the terms pure white, warm white, or plain white, LED makers are not universal in how they specify them.  If you're looking for white LED's and you don't want the blue hint of color, the warm white versions are what you're looking for.

 

The switch you want is the ON/ON DPDT, you don't want any center off for your tortoise switch machines.

 

I use 1/4W resistors most of the time for LED's, however, for most installations, 1/8W would work as well..

 

I'd look around and order some LED's, I just get them on the cheap and see if I like the color.  I use mostly warm-white, though in rare cases I do use the bright white ones.

Ok Kenny now I will really confuse you. You are using 12V DC to power the Tortoise so you don't need to use any resistors if you are wiring them as shown in their wiring instructions.

Are you going to use a Red and a Green (2 LEDs) for each turnout, or are you going to use 1 Red/Green bi-color or bi-polar LED for each turnout? We have 1 LED for each turnout that changes changes from GREEN to YELLOW. Less wiring when using 1 per turnout.

Kenny, are you indeed using Tortoise?  I didn't see confirmation in any of your responses.

 

Also, what are you using the white LEDs for?  I'm thinking about these white LED "strips" that operate on 12V and can greatly simplify wiring.

 

If the 3mm LEDs are going on a control panel, everyone also sells 3mm mounting clips that make for a nice finish on a drilled panel.  These run maybe a nickel or dime each and can dig up a photo if you're not familiar with them.

 

 

 

    Thank you everyone for your help and information. I have been comparing between Allelectronics and led-switch and I am getting the resistors from AE and everything else I am getting from LS.     laidoffsick I am using the 12 V power supply so I do not need to get the resistors for the single red and single green LED'S on the control panel. stan2004 I am using the Tortoise machines. The white LED'S are for the buildings and houses. I am taking the bulb lights out of them to put in the LED'S because the voltages are all different in them. I already have the 3MM holders for the LED'S ordered with the rest of the switches and LED'S. My father retired from A machine shop and I am having them make me A sheet metal control panel that I am putting on drawer slides. That way when I want to turn on or shut off something I just pull out the control panel out turn on or off whatever I want and push the control panel back underneath the layout so it is not in the way. Choo Choo Kenny

Originally Posted by Choo Choo kenny:

The white LED'S are for the buildings and houses. I am taking the bulb lights out of them to put in the LED'S because the voltages are all different in them. .

I might have missed it on the led-switch site but I didn't see so-called 3mm flat-top or wide-angle 3mm WHITE LEDs there.  If the LEDs are for interior lighting (to replace bulbs), typical 3mm round-top lenses cast a too narrow spot-light like narrow beam.  You can of course alter the round lens by sanding or whatever but the flat-top 3mm LEDs do that for you to spread the light more like a traditional bulb.

 

Or, the 12V LED strips also illustrated in the re-cycled photo from another thread also are also wide-angle and come on self-adhesive strips so easy to mount to a ceiling.  There are typically 3 white LEDs per 2" section.  You just hook up 12V DC and off you go.

 

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