Well.. here goes ! (New 3 railer)

Ross switches and GarGraves track is a winning combination. GarGraves has curved sections like FasTrack, too.

Lay some track and see how you like it.

Keep us posted, y'hear?

quote:

but just in general terms, what has worked for some of you, and what hasnt.

1st layout Lionel tubular track. Noisy, limited but relatively cheap. Switches not so good. Tore down.

2nd layout ROW switches, gargraves track. ROW switches were very poorly made and were difficult to work with. Sent them back and moved on.

3rd layout Ross switches with the aluminum frogs and gargraves track. Switches very noisy and engines lumbered and bumped through them. Tore that one down.

4th layout. Curtis switches and gargraves track. Worked OK but did not like the way the layout was built. Tried to do too much in too small a space. Also did not realize that when I weathered the out sides of the two outside rails to simulate rust that the metal underneath the gargraves track had to be weathered as well did not become apparent until the layout was finished. Tore it down.

5th layout. Ross switches, with the delrin frogs (Steve came to his senses) and Ross track. Did not try to do too much. The result: nearly perfect. Two main lines, a passing track and a 2x6 four track yard. I like the Ross track with the individual spiked rails. No metal underneath like Gargraves and it looks just great. Still up and running with only some buildings that need to be installed and some detail work.

So, you will get many recommendations but if you can afford it take my advise and go with all Ross track and switches. You will not regret it.

You can't go wrong with Ross & GG. If I went with GG track, I would use Ross switches as I've heard (but never had any real exposure to) mixed things about GG switches.

Personally, on my "toy-rail" layout, I use Lionel 0-27 style tubular track and switches (with a larger radius on my main level/loop with 0-27 on my upper loop due to space limitations) and couldn't be happier.


We have some new Ross tinplate switches on the club layout and they are beautiful and perform just as well.

Another option, if your budget allows, purchase a section of each track system you are considering before making your final choice.

quote:

So, you will get many recommendations but if you can afford it take my advise and go with all Ross track and switches. You will not regret it.

I'll second this!

Mike

AR75: electrically speaking, as you mentioned, the visual curse of the center conductor is offset
by its functionality.

As the center rail is always the center rail, there are no wye or reversing-loop shorting issues. This
is one of the reasons that it was invented, One of the others is that 3 rails makes activating signals
and accessories easier and more flexible.

I have mostly GG switches, plus some Ross, and GG, Curtis and Lionel (042) tubular (in yards) track. All of it is painted; no
shiny track here. My layout came before all the track choices we have today.

My favorite track is MTH Scaletrax (not "Realtrax"). I recommend starting with that. A bit more fussy
than GG/Ross at first, but much better-looking. If I were to start over today...

But paint the track, regardless of brand. I use Krylon or Rust-O-Leum camo brown; a nice black-brown-rusty
color, and flat. I paint it first, then put it down (fine sandpaper - yes, that's OK - the rail tops to remove the paint first).

Welcome to the madness, Adam
I'm with D500 on the ScaleTrax.
The smaller rails and ties make your trains look more massive.
Sweet track with a thin center rail that easily disappears.
The flex track sections are very easily flexed, I've curled one down to about O-24 by hand with no bad side effects.
Only Drawback is a limited selection of switches. MTH says more are on the list to develop...
They do have all the basics tho. Lt and Rt in 3 sizes.
Check out www.toytrainsontracks.com for some good videos of this track in a layout.

I'm tearing up my Realtrax (Similar to Fastrack) for ScaleTrax.
I got a pair of Ross O-72 wye's to fill those critical points in my layout.
(since then I've seen a Wye made with the available Scaletrax switches)
The Ross switches match up OK, Just leave the cork out from under the Ross switches since the ties are bigger and the rails a bit taller.
Ross Custom Switches also has the best customer service I've ever seen.

I love Atlas O track.
That's what we use exclusively on the Munoz Lines.

Munoz Lines

Eliot

quote:

...also Ross is American made.

As is GarGraves.

Ross and GG are great.

Most who build with this seem to prefer using GG track and Ross turnouts, but I do think the Ross track looks very nice with its individually spiked ties. (Likewise, I understand GG turnouts have improved in recent years.) In any case, I would not hesitate to go with Ross.

To get a handle on O-gauge trackwork with various products (and to help determine which track system you prefer), I suggest you check out Peter Riddle's book on this topic.

From a modeling perspective, some of the most realistic ballasting and tracklaying techniques I have seen in 3-rail O-gauge are those recommended by Dennis Brennan. For example, since GG/Ross track has a rail profile higher than the prototype and has fairly thick ties, Dennis suggests laying this track directly on foam rather than roadbed, and then use N-scale roadbed to form a shallow shelf along the outside of the ties. After ballasting (using correctly proportioned ballast), the overall height and appearance is much more prototypical.

There are lots of really talented modelers and builders here who will be happy to help you out. Good luck and welcome to the club!

Welcome to the Forum, Adam. You will find a lot of good advice and answers to your questions.

That said, it looks like most here like Ross switches and Gargraves track.

Personally, my layout has used and is still using Gargraves, Lionel Fastrack, tubular track with 022 switches and some 027.

It all comes down to a matter of personal choice....AND getting the trackwork right the first time. It may be a little time consuming at first but, the years of enjoyment are the result.

Good luck in your endeavor and keep asking questions.


cc

It is personal choice...!

Atlas is the track I've used on several layouts. Easy to install and quiet. Can't ask for more.

I didn't know there was another choice. Get your Ross switches with the dz2500 switch machines and you'll be able to control them through your Legacy cab 2 controller.

Welcome to the forum Adam. As you said, I see too that you have been lurking around since Sept. 2011, so it appears that you have made some good choices in preparing your ground work. 0-72 is a very good minimum radius but 0-54 isn't too bad for a smaller diameter area. Everything I've read about Ross track/switches is also a excellent choice, I use Atlas track/switches. Going with Lionel Legacy is another good choice, I use it and have since it came out! I'm sure your experience with HO and N will be of help to you too.

It's great to see another Nebraskan on the forum, there a few of us around on the forum. I've been at this for a little over 10 years and still learning but if I can be of any help let me know. Keep us posted on your progress.

Have a great weekend.

Ken

Adam,

Welcome to the wonderful world of O-Gauge!

I also was an HO modeler (for about 40 years, five layots), before switching to O almost four years ago. You won’t regret it.

Doing reversing loops with 3-rails is a cinch, as opposed to HO. I believe this is the biggest advantage, and I have not found any disadvantages with O-Gauge 3-rail. (Soon, you may even start to think that a railroad track with just two rails 'looks funny' )

As far as track is concerned, I don’t think that there is ‘perfect’ one; each has its pros and cons, and depends on what each individual wants.

I also used Fastrack for my first O-Gauge layout (7’ x 19’) when I started in O-Gauge, and it was trouble free. But it did not have the look I wanted.

For the layout I am presently building (33' x 38'), I selected Atlas track; and both Atlas No. 5 straight and Ross large curved switch tracks. The Atlas track is excellent other than their flex track really is not very flexible, but with curves offered up to Ø108” in 9” increments, I have had minimal need for the flex.

Switch tracks (turnouts) have been a different story. Of the 46 Atlas switch tracks I have, only two or three have given me very minimal problem with one engine (3-truck Shay) derailing or getting stuck, but not always. I have had to disassemble the switch machine on two to reposition the actuating linkage, but this was easy. Other than that, they have worked fine. Keep in mind, however, that I have been running trains only for a few months.

Some of the 11 Ross curved switch tracks have been OK as well, but some have given me problems with cars and engines. For example, I have not been able to back up my MTH Premier Big Boy over a Ross curved switch track without the tender derailing. I need to work on this. Also, even though the DZ-1000 machines are very well built and are not just a plain solenoid, the combination of the switch track and the DZ-1000 machine sometimes do not work reliably; that is, the points sometimes are not fully thrown. I have been working on this and it is getting better.

One thing to check before you make your final decision – check the availability of what you need! If you are going to use your Local Hobby Shop(s), make a trip and find out their stock and prices. If you are going to order online, check the various vendors and their prices. I have learned that some online vendors list items in stock that they do not really have, while others have very accurate online stock numbers. I called several and asked them whether I could rely on their website stock numbers, and the answers were mixed. One of them told me, “if you can add it to the cart, then we have it in stock” and they have been 100% dependable for all the products they sell.

Good luck with whatever you decide, and keep us informed of your progress.

Alex

Great Adam, I made the jump from HO to O back in 2005. I am having a blast with it.
As far as electrical gismos and command controllers. I recommend you visit a persons layout or club layout and see, hear, and operate a few of the newer stuff that's out there.

Once you pick a certain controller from a manufacturer, this will dictate how you wire your layout. Or if you pick both, which I wish I could afford, the interface wiring and the wiring to operate both will be different as well.

Have fun and show us some pics!

Hey Adam. I hope I can take some credit for your current demise!

Like you, I was heavy into N scale before O gauge. If you have a copy of the latest OGR magazine (Run 255), read my layout article and look at the pictures. It should give you a lot of ideas and answer some of your questions.

I have a similar size room (a bit longer) and you will see it fills up rather quickly with an O gauge layout.

Good luck and welcome aboard.

Donald

Atlas track for appearance and smooth operation; Ross switches for reliability and variety.

paul m.