Since we’re talking about junk, I thought you guys might like to see the scrap metal I load and unload with my Lionel 282R Gantry Crane.  The “scrap” is nail gun cartridges given to me by my friend, Dick, because they were the wrong size for his nail gun.  I broke them up and let them weather naturally outside.  I think it shows loose pieces look more natural.

BTW, my postwar crane has never been apart and runs well.  It is, in my opinion, the greatest postwar accessory Lionel ever made due it’s versatility and skill required to operate it smoothly.  It’s not as easy as just pushing a button.

John

WHAT'S  ON  THE  WORKBENCH  ??? 

Are we having fun yet............the front proto coupler was frozen with only one remedy.    I had to replace it.

Turned out to be quite a job getting to the mount and putting the new one on.       While I had all the front pieces off I decided to take care of a small rolling that the little switcher had while going down the track.

I removed everthing to get to the wheels and found they were not quite quartered.   One drive wheel was just not lined up .

After carefully removing the offending wheel and getting it back on I test rolled the chassis and was pleased with the results.    A little apprehensive after reading about advice that doing this would not be advised.

Now......well .......put the front end back on and lots of neat little pieces of the valve gear to get back together.                                 I hope everyone's having fun if you are working at your WORKBENCH.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

WHAT'S  ON  THE  WORKBENCH  ???

Are we having fun yet............the front proto coupler was frozen with only one remedy.    I had to replace it.

Turned out to be quite a job getting to the mount and putting the new one on.       While I had all the front pieces off I decided to take care of a small rolling that the little switcher had while going down the track.

I removed everthing to get to the wheels and found they were not quite quartered.   One drive wheel was just not lined up .

After carefully removing the offending wheel and getting it back on I test rolled the chassis and was pleased with the results.    A little apprehensive after reading about advice that doing this would not be advised.

Now......well .......put the front end back on and lots of neat little pieces of the valve gear to get back together.                                 I hope everyone's having fun if you are working at your WORKBENCH.

Insert Tab A into Slot B........

From the department of one thing leads to another. On the upside you are enhancing your neuronal networks.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

.........I lost my instruction sheet Bob.

...........does the neuronal network have YouTube? 

.

Sounds like you are in trouble 😄

@Dallas Joseph posted:

.........I lost my instruction sheet Bob.

...........does the neuronal network have YouTube? 

.

I shall clarify......MASH TAB A INTO SLOT B........KEEP MASHING UNTIL SLOT B SUBMITS............

@Dallas Joseph posted:

.........I lost my instruction sheet Bob.

...........does the neuronal network have YouTube? 

.

If you think about it I guess.😄

@Mark Boyce posted:

Sounds like you are in trouble 😄

Only if I neglect some of my other duties and spend TOO MUCH TIME with the trains Mark.

@RSJB18 posted:

I shall clarify......MASH TAB A INTO SLOT B........KEEP MASHING UNTIL SLOT B SUBMITS............

OK  Bob ,  is it alright to drill EXTRA HOLES in the Walschaerts valve gear after I apply some CA ?

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

If you think about it I guess.😄

I'm trying NOT to think about it Tranquil..........until you guys gather up about a half dozen steam engines with this same valve gear  ( or similar valve gear ).....and come over to the house this afternoon !!! 

Dallas, 😄😄

You will do fine!!

Did some riveting today on the boom cars spreader bars.    Used Micro-Mark O scale rivet decals.   Anxious to see how they look after painting.   So far I'm impressed with the process.

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Tom, your C-630 looks great.  The new intake vents look fine to me!   Also, the link I posted for the Big Hook video had a follow up video showing your Erie crane and tender in action.   Great job on the tender!

Won an auction for the Lionel Scrambler amusement ride that I have been looking for for a long time (not paying eBay prices). It arrived with lights and sounds working but no motion. 14 screws later, thanks Lionel, the positive wire going to the motor was loose so I resoldered both wires going to the motor and she fired right up!

Excited to be adding this to my layout.

@darlander- Rivet decals......who knew. Looks good so far.
@pault- Neat accessory. Glad it was a simple fix despite the 14 screws......

Bob

Now that my Doodlebug and coach are off the bench, it's time to dive into the Lionchief upgrade of my Weaver RS3.
I took the factory board out yesterday. If you recall, I was having problems with it working so.....upgrade...... I found a loose wire on the switch for the reverse on/off switch. So the board works and may live to see life in something else one day. All of the JST plugs on the Weaver board are different from the LC so I'll save them with the Weaver board.
I pulled the harness plugs needed for the new board. First step will be to make a bracket to mount the LC board to above the speaker.

Bob

That’s some surgically precise work Bob.

WOW you guys sure have some Big ones to make the leap into engines and stuff like that! I would be scared that I would just wreck something and end up with a Non powered engine!

All the work is looking wonderful and fun to read about! Heck I might even learn a thing or 2 as I try to keep up with all of you!

@darlander posted:

Did some riveting today on the boom cars spreader bars.    Used Micro-Mark O scale rivet decals.   Anxious to see how they look after painting.   So far I'm impressed with the process.

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Tom, your C-630 looks great.  The new intake vents look fine to me!   Also, the link I posted for the Big Hook video had a follow up video showing your Erie crane and tender in action.   Great job on the tender!

Dave, thanks for the kind words. The rivet detail is some I never explored…yet. I have used the Archer louvers in the past though. Your car and components are going to be top notch!

I replaced the vents already. Almost ready to paint. Some more filing still.

The crane is located in a museum near me. I saw it actually operate some 35 years ago, when NJT used it to install a wheel machine in Hoboken NJ. It sat for another 10 years after that and was almost scrapped. A smaller local museum bought it from the scrap company and it sat again for almost 15 years before the current museum procured it…

Tom

FOLLOW UP ............Premier 0-4-0 finally back together .........( non of the parts have fallen off YET.   )

Dallas, nice work. So are you a PRSL guy? My parents never drove and that is how we would get from Philadelphia to Cape May when I was of single digit age.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

FOLLOW UP ............Premier 0-4-0 finally back together .........( non of the parts have fallen off YET.   )

Looks good Dallas. Glad it went back together with no issues.

We all had faith, just had to have some fun at your expense. 🙄🙄

Bob

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Dallas, nice work. So are you a PRSL guy? My parents never drove and that is how we would get from Philadelphia to Cape May when I was of single digit age.

Honesty being the best policy TH......I justfell in love with that little 4 wheeled girl. ( I'd have bought it even if it had said " I'M A DIESEL RR. " .........it did have Pennsylvania as part of the name though  )

@RSJB18 posted:

Looks good Dallas. Glad it went back together with no issues.

We all had faith, just had to have some fun at your expense. 🙄🙄

Bob

Got it Bob............I too had fun with everyone's replies.  

The comradery on the Forum is awesome.

Decided to go through all my older PS/2 boards and give my PS/2 Testset a real workout to see if anything odd happened.  Happy to report it works exactly as it should.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Honesty being the best policy TH......I justfell in love with that little 4 wheeled girl. ( I'd have bought it even if it had said " I'M A DIESEL RR. " .........it did have Pennsylvania as part of the name though  )

Got it Bob............I too had fun with everyone's replies.

The comradery on the Forum is awesome.

The switcher runs great, Dallas.  Was it over engineered, ie. were there parts left over?  It’s happened to me. 😁

@Mark Boyce posted:

The switcher runs great, Dallas.  Was it over engineered, ie. were there parts left over?  It’s happened to me. 😁

OH BOY Mark...........I thought my parts fell off the workbench......now I'm guessing they ended up in Butler.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

OH BOY Mark...........I thought my parts fell off the workbench......now I'm guessing they ended up in Butler.

I asked for that one! 😄

@Mark Boyce posted:

I asked for that one! 😄

Mike G., I feel the same way.  It's been a long time since I opened up an engine and now that I have to open several I am not thrilled. 

"FOLLOW UP ............Premier 0-4-0 finally back together .........( non of the parts have fallen off YET.   )" Always a good thing, Dallas.

@coach joe posted:

Mike G., I feel the same way.  It's been a long time since I opened up an engine and now that I have to open several I am not thrilled.

"FOLLOW UP ............Premier 0-4-0 finally back together .........( non of the parts have fallen off YET.   )" Always a good thing, Dallas.

Jump in Joe. The water's fine.......

@RSJB18 posted:

Jump in Joe. The water's fine.......

Do it Joe and let me know how that works out for you! LOL

If things go wrong you can always send it to Bob!

Made some progress on my Weaver RS3 upgrade. I had to fabricate a bracket to mount the board vertically. The board is wider than the shell so it can't lay flat on the frame. I added a piece of styrene for insulation. I'll mount the board with two-face tape.
I bought a small assortment of metric screws recently which has already paid dividends to mount the bracket.
Extended the wires for the power and ground from the trucks after correcting the backwards colors (red was ground, black hot) and sorted out the polarity for the motors to get rotation correct. The LC board only has one motor output so I am wiring them in series.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Bob

Still working to get your MEDICAL DEGREE Bob ? 

Looks like this is YOUR TURN for a FUN week sir.

What did you chose for your bracket ?    Things are looking pretty clean and organized.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Still working to get your MEDICAL DEGREE Bob ? 

Looks like this is YOUR TURN for a FUN week sir.

What did you chose for your bracket ?    Things are looking pretty clean and organized.

Dallas- I had an old cover from a DVR that I've used before. Couldn't find it despite my digging today. It did force me to clean up a few things tho.

I have some J channel for drywall work that I cut a piece from. Just took off the hook of the J to make an L. 😎

Just call me Dr. Trains......🤣🤣

Nice looking bracket, Dr. Bob!  It may have taken me quite a while to think outside the box enough to even realize I could mount the bracket vertically!  This fall, will mark 50 years since I started my first electronics course in college, and somehow I keep forgetting electrons can flow uphill! 

@Mark Boyce posted:

Nice looking bracket, Dr. Bob!  It may have taken me quite a while to think outside the box enough to even realize I could mount the bracket vertically!  This fall, will mark 50 years since I started my first electronics course in college, and somehow I keep forgetting electrons can flow uphill! 

My electrons keep flowing ( or falling ) to my feet Mark .       Dr. Bob seems to have this operation covered.

( we'll have to see if the patient survives. )

@Dallas Joseph posted:

My electrons keep flowing ( or falling ) to my feet Mark .       Dr. Bob seems to have this operation covered.

( we'll have to see if the patient survives. )

That he does!

@RSJB18 posted:

Dallas- I had an old cover from a DVR that I've used before. Couldn't find it despite my digging today. It did force me to clean up a few things tho.

I have some J channel for drywall work that I cut a piece from. Just took off the hook of the J to make an L. 😎

Just call me Dr. Trains......🤣🤣

The doctor is in the house! You really do have great innovative talent Bob.

Went back down to the bench after dinner last night. I wanted to see the engine move, so I spliced the motor wires temporarily and set it on the track. Other than needing to reverse the polarity, the engine runs surprisingly well.
The engine is paired up with the Universal Remote. I've tested the LC app and it works with that as well. Just can't use the app on my phone and shoot a video at the same time. I have an old phone that I use for the LC app but it was dead at the time.

Bob

Nicely done Bob(Dr. trains🙂). I have no clue on this part of model railroading, just slowly learning.

Gene

Bob, that is a smooth run!!  It sounds like it will be a real winner when you are finished!!

@RSJB18 posted:

Bob

IT'S  ALIVE ......IT'S  ALIVE ........IT'S  ALIVE......Dr. Franken*****.........oh never mind.

Nice work Bob.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, that is a smooth run!!  It sounds like it will be a real winner when you are finished!!

Thanks Mark. With the motors wired in series it does stop and start like a higher end Legacy engine. I tried the momentum settings in the app and it barely moves on medium and on high it didn't start until almost full throttle. Top speed is slower naturally but it's a freight engine and I don't have the space for fast freight service anyway......

Bob, I know you have said in the past that thigs are easy, but I have to say in my eyes you are one amazing wizard with these engines!

Just a side note, if you get yourself a 3D printer then you can print your own mounting boards!

@Dallas Joseph posted:

IT'S  ALIVE ......IT'S  ALIVE ........IT'S  ALIVE......Dr. Franken*****.........oh never mind.

Nice work Bob.

@mike g. posted:

Bob, I know you have said in the past that thigs are easy, but I have to say in my eyes you are one amazing wizard with these engines!

Just a side note, if you get yourself a 3D printer then you can print your own mounting boards!

Thanks for the compliment Mike but I consider myself a novice when compared to some of the experts on here. I'm tempted to dive into 3D printing, but I'll stick to old school fabrication methods for now.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Thanks for the compliment Mike but I consider myself a novice when compared to some of the experts on here. I'm tempted to dive into 3D printing, but I'll stick to old school fabrication methods for now.

Bob

I have my eye on a 3D printer, just waiting for it to come out with the newest model sometime next month! There is so much to print and I am sure over time I can figure out how to design something! LOL

Painted the spreader bars and cables yesterday.    The rivet decal instructions recommend using an air brush to avoid too-heavy an application of paint that would obscure the surface detail.    I first did a light spray of Polly Scale light gray undercoat. Followed that with a mixture of DecoArt Burnt Umber & Heritage Brick (purchased from Hobby Lobby - $0.99 each).    Finished with a light accent spray of Poly Scale Grimy Black.

I am pleased with the results.    In my opinion, the rivet detail does add to the appearance.    It may not be noticed by the casual observer, but it pleases me to know it's there.

The hardware on the beams and the hooks were made from copper wire and the buttons were cut from 1/2" brass brads.   I filed the heads flat.   The cables are pieces of string.

Also the price point and overall color selections available at HL was a good find.    

Cheers, Dave

@darlander posted:

Painted the spreader bars and cables yesterday.    The rivet decal instructions recommend using an air brush to avoid too-heavy an application of paint that would obscure the surface detail.    I first did a light spray of Polly Scale light gray undercoat. Followed that with a mixture of DecoArt Burnt Umber & Heritage Brick (purchased from Hobby Lobby - $0.99 each).    Finished with a light accent spray of Poly Scale Grimy Black.

I am pleased with the results.    In my opinion, the rivet detail does add to the appearance.    It may not be noticed by the casual observer, but it pleases me to know it's there.

The hardware on the beams and the hooks were made from copper wire and the buttons were cut from 1/2 copper brads.   I filed the heads flat.   The cables are pieces of string.

Also the price point and overall color selections available at HL was a good find.    

Cheers, Dave

They look great Dave. I'm with you on the rivets. An added detail that adds to the realism of the model.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

They look great Dave. I'm with you on the rivets. An added detail that adds to the realism of the model.

Bob

Thanks Bob!   The process provided a great learning experience!

Cheers, Dave

PS:  I still marvel and envy your ability to tackle the electronics part of the hobby!

Dave that looks great! I will have to try and remember to look back on this page when the time comes!

Inspired by this thread https://ogrforum.com/...cab-for-only-pennies from @M. Mitchell Marmel, I'm building a Frankensteeple cab.  Not realistic at all, but it's been fun.  Started with a 6-8374 switcher and two slope-backed tenders.  Still trying to decide on a paint scheme.

@Mallard4468 posted:

Inspired by this thread https://ogrforum.com/...cab-for-only-pennies from @M. Mitchell Marmel, I'm building a Frankensteeple cab.  Not realistic at all, but it's been fun.  Started with a 6-8374 switcher and two slope-backed tenders.  Still trying to decide on a paint scheme.

That's neat. Like a Crocodile and a 44 tonner had a baby.....

@RSJB18 posted:

That's neat. Like a Crocodile and a 44 tonner had a baby.....

And an ugly baby at that!

If one looks closely, it's apparent that the crew has to climb through a window to get in or out of the cab. 

In addition to choosing a paint scheme, now I need to figure out how to repurpose the frames from the tenders.

While at York, I'll be looking for a power pole or small pantograph.  It looks like a full-size pantograph will overwhelm the cab and create clearance issues.

Nice 44 crock!

Mallard I have long term plans to do a similar steeple cab.  I've got one slope back tender and Mitch's cab plan.  I still need a chassis, another slope back and time.  Seems like absolutely everything is a project right now and my prioritization skills are shot so I've got things everywhere.  I want to thank you for sharing, now I know I need to figure out a cab door.

As for color, as an homage to the brains behind Frankenshteeple how about Razor Back Traction red?

@Mallard4468 posted:

Inspired by this thread https://ogrforum.com/...cab-for-only-pennies from @M. Mitchell Marmel, I'm building a Frankensteeple cab.  Not realistic at all, but it's been fun.  Started with a 6-8374 switcher and two slope-backed tenders.  Still trying to decide on a paint scheme.

I'm flattered! 

@RSJB18 posted:

That's neat. Like a Crocodile and a 44 tonner had a baby.....

Hee!  Indeed.

@Mallard4468 posted:

And an ugly baby at that!

LOL! 

If one looks closely, it's apparent that the crew has to climb through a window to get in or out of the cab. 

As depicted in my article, yes.  However, I figured it out. 

In addition to choosing a paint scheme, now I need to figure out how to repurpose the frames from the tenders.

Cut down some tank cars and make water sprinklers, perhaps? 

While at York, I'll be looking for a power pole or small pantograph.  It looks like a full-size pantograph will overwhelm the cab and create clearance issues.

Yeah, I wound up using a trolley pole on "Bessie".  Quick and dirty answer would be a solid plastic pole from an Atlas/Industrial Rail car...

@coach joe posted:

Mallard I have long term plans to do a similar steeple cab.  I've got one slope back tender and Mitch's cab plan.  I still need a chassis, another slope back and time.  Seems like absolutely everything is a project right now and my prioritization skills are shot so I've got things everywhere.  I want to thank you for sharing, now I know I need to figure out a cab door.

On "Bessie", I wound up scribing a door from one of the cab side windows and mounting a ladder beneath. 

As for color, as an homage to the brains behind Frankenshteeple how about Razor Back Traction red?

You can never go wrong with Razorback Red! 

Mitch

@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

I'm flattered!

Hee!  Indeed.

LOL! 

As depicted in my article, yes.  However, I figured it out. 

Cut down some tank cars and make water sprinklers, perhaps? 

Yeah, I wound up using a trolley pole on "Bessie".  Quick and dirty answer would be a solid plastic pole from an Atlas/Industrial Rail car...

On "Bessie", I wound up scribing a door from one of the cab side windows and mounting a ladder beneath. 

You can never go wrong with Razorback Red! 

Mitch

Re the door, since I procrastinated for so long, I was going for quick-and-dirty.  IMO, most people won't notice, and I wasn't going for realism anyway.  If I tried to scribe one, it would look like Homer Simpson did it.

Thanks for the tip regarding the Atlas plastic pole - I didn't know that Atlas made such a thing.  Realistically, it will be whatever I can find at a parts dealer or in a junk box. 

@coach joe posted:

Mallard I have long term plans to do a similar steeple cab.  I've got one slope back tender and Mitch's cab plan.  I still need a chassis, another slope back and time.  Seems like absolutely everything is a project right now and my prioritization skills are shot so I've got things everywhere.  I want to thank you for sharing, now I know I need to figure out a cab door.

As for color, as an homage to the brains behind Frankenshteeple how about Razor Back Traction red?

For the cab and chassis, I used the 6-8374 because I found a scratched up one at a meet for $30.  I realized that I needed something with a small can motor in the chassis because the slope of the tender bodies leaves very little room above the trucks.  Needed to move the circuit board to sit under the cab.  It runs perfectly, and of course it doesn't need to pull a lot of cars.  It was the perfect length.  I think I paid $5 each for the tenders and $5 for a sheet of plastic to hold the sides together, so I'm in it for $45 plus the pole, glue, paint, and decals.

As for prioritizing projects, I'm in the same boat.  I need to live to be at least 120 to get most of them done.  FWIW, I think I've spent a total of about 4-6 hours on it so far, so it wasn't a huge investment of time.  IMO, it's a good kick-starter, since it can be boxed up and set aside if it gets in the way.

@darlander posted:

Painted the spreader bars and cables yesterday.    The rivet decal instructions recommend using an air brush to avoid too-heavy an application of paint that would obscure the surface detail.    I first did a light spray of Polly Scale light gray undercoat. Followed that with a mixture of DecoArt Burnt Umber & Heritage Brick (purchased from Hobby Lobby - $0.99 each).    Finished with a light accent spray of Poly Scale Grimy Black.

I am pleased with the results.    In my opinion, the rivet detail does add to the appearance.    It may not be noticed by the casual observer, but it pleases me to know it's there.

The hardware on the beams and the hooks were made from copper wire and the buttons were cut from 1/2" brass brads.   I filed the heads flat.   The cables are pieces of string.

Also the price point and overall color selections available at HL was a good find.    

Cheers, Dave

Dave,

The equipment looks great. the rivits really “pop”…lol.  Look forward to seeing the entire package when it is finished!

Tom

A bit more progress on my MTH N&W C-630

After installing the better factory made intake grills everything was sanded and primed again.

A couple days later, I painted the shell with Pevler blue from Tru-Color. My first airbrush work in a long, long time.

The front number board and headlight bracket was modified and attached to the shell up inside the new high nose. I fitted the number boards too.

Pilots were painted and reattached, with details (air hoses and step edges) to be painted later.

Decals are being applied today. They are ShellScale decals and they are excellent. Detail painting is being done on each side next.

Tom

Another F.W.&D. coach.

I received the cab interior and engineer figures from Lionel yesterday. The New Haven ran their early Alcos long hood forward, which is how the engine is marked. I ordered the correct cab interior to cover the motor to the rear of the cab with the seats facing in the right direction. What surprised me a little was that the control stand is on the left side of the piece, which would make sense for short hood forward (engineer on the right).
So my question.....did Alco switch the controls to be on the right side of the cab for long hood forward or did the engineer sit on the left side in this configuration?
A minor point, but my cuiorisity gets the the better of me sometimes.

I will have to modify both the shell and the interior piece to make it fit. It's fits under the cab, but not in between the side walls of the body.

Bob

Great work everyone! I wish I had something to add to this thread, Maybe someday this coming winter! But as for me I will keep watching till then!

@mike g. posted:

Great work everyone! I wish I had something to add to this thread, Maybe someday this coming winter! But as for me I will keep watching till then!

Well considering that you need a new workbench with a house attached first.........

@RSJB18 posted:

Well considering that you need a new workbench with a house attached first.........

Bob great point! LOL We think we might have found one, just waiting to see what the seller is going to ask for it!

@mike g. posted:

Bob great point! LOL We think we might have found one, just waiting to see what the seller is going to ask for it!

Refurbished my new to me 1665.  Had a little bit of a rough life.  Front coupler was bent and broken at the pivot rivet.   Cab plugins were missing.   Engine ran well, but someone replaced some of the linkage screws with regular screws  E-unit worked but on inspection the board supporting the switch contact was broken and the previous glue job was not holding.  It came with a frankenstiened 615T tender. 

Rebuilt an E unit, replaced the front coupler and light assembly.   It was too bent to fix well.  Added slight bend to drawbar to keep it from sparking along the center rail.  Added the plugs in the cab and rewired it all.   Fix linkage with proper linkage screws.    Original bulb still working. 

Has a good patina, but some external cleaning and touchup to do.   The 1662. 1663 and 1665 used the same motor and wheels with deep flanges.   They bump through the switches and Control tracks.   This was corrected on the 1656 and 1615.   This might be fixed by replacing the wheels with ones from a 229.   I think I will leave this one as is.   I am putting up a section that wont have any switches that this will run through.

6403B tender on the way.

@RSJB18 posted:

I received the cab interior and engineer figures from Lionel yesterday. The New Haven ran their early Alcos long hood forward, which is how the engine is marked. I ordered the correct cab interior to cover the motor to the rear of the cab with the seats facing in the right direction. What surprised me a little was that the control stand is on the left side of the piece, which would make sense for short hood forward (engineer on the right).
So my question.....did Alco switch the controls to be on the right side of the cab for long hood forward or did the engineer sit on the left side in this configuration?
A minor point, but my cuiorisity gets the the better of me sometimes.

I will have to modify both the shell and the interior piece to make it fit. It's fits under the cab, but not in between the side walls of the body.

Bob

Excellent question Bob. Also, how will the length of the engine handle your switches and curves?

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Excellent question Bob. Also, how will the length of the engine handle your switches and curves?

Jay

RS3's are fine on 027 curves. Surprisingly I've had problems with my RS1's. The fuel tanks hit the covers on the switches. I fixed a couple on my main level so that I can run them. I converted them to manual.

Finally finished. This was my first kitbash and I learned a few things. The engine didn’t come out perfect, a bunch of tiny flaws, but I enjoyed building it. Doing a N&W C-425 with a high short hood next.

Here is the MTH PS3 Alco C-630 in Pelver blue. The ShellScale decals were a pleasure to work with…

Tom

@Krieglok posted:

Finally finished. This was my first kitbash and I learned a few things. The engine didn’t come out perfect, a bunch of tiny flaws, but I enjoyed building it. Doing a N&W C-425 with a high short hood next.

Tom

I think it looks great Tom. We are all our own worst critics.....😁

Bob

@Krieglok posted:

Finally finished. This was my first kitbash and I learned a few things. The engine didn’t come out perfect, a bunch of tiny flaws, but I enjoyed building it. Doing a N&W C-425 with a high short hood next.

Here is the MTH PS3 Alco C-630 in Pelver blue. The ShellScale decals were a pleasure to work with…

Tom

Tom I am with Bob, Looks great!

@Krieglok posted:

Well done Tom!   Nice to know that you have another project to bring to the bench.   My boom cars (2) will be dull coated tomorrow as I did some decal work yesterday and today.    They maybe ready for show and Tell this week.

Cheers, Dave

Tom, it really looks great!!!

Thank you guys! I really appreciate your kind words!

It was a nice break from painting freight cars!

Tom

Both Boom Cars are finished, off the bench and ready for some heavy lifting.    They will not be riding the rails as they will find a home in the yard awaiting the need.    Next on the bench is a Crown Model outside brace box car that I may also assign to the maintenance department.   I’m running low on things to do - I may be forced into trying some weathering!     At least the weather is becoming favorable for outside air brushing!   

Cheers, Dave

The boom cars look great, Dave!

@darlander posted:

Both Boom Cars are finished, off the bench and ready for some heavy lifting.    They will not be riding the rails as they will find a home in the yard awaiting the need.    Next on the bench is a Crown Model outside brace box car that I may also assign to the maintenance department.   I’m running low on things to do - I may be forced into trying some weathering!     At least the weather is becoming favorable for outside air brushing!   

Cheers, Dave

Bravo! Bravo!

@Mark Boyce posted:

The boom cars look great, Dave!

Let me say something more about Dave’s boom cars.  Here is my boom car, stock K-Line.  It’s a very nice pair, but I know it lacks certain elements of realism.

Dave, you say you are running out of projects.  You and others on the forum make more projects for me daily!  😃

Dave, the boom cars are great looking and if your running short of things to do, I see Mark might have a boom car for you to redo! LOL

I know I have a MTH one that I want to repaint and put new BNSF logos on! But that's for another day!

I fit the cab into my RS3 last night. I had to cut the side walls of the body and trimmed the interior insert down as well. I mounted the twins in their seats too. I will install the cab light next and then I can finish the assembly and glue it in place.

I think I have enough clearance for the motor to spin and move freely but I'll road test it to be sure. I had learned my lesson the hard way when I did my SantaFe F3's and added a cab interior.....

Bob

Bob, it’s looking great!  I have 3 engines I want to do similarly, 2 MTH RS3 and a Weaver RS3.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, it’s looking great!  I have a there engines I want to do similarly, 2 MTH RS3 and a Weaver RS3.

Well this is a Weaver so you have a good tutorial....

The newer MTH have the body sides up to full height so they just need figures inserted.

Thanks Mark.

Looks great Bob, and its amazing how you were able to find twins to work together! LOL I am glad everything is fitting in!

@mike g. posted:

Looks great Bob, and its amazing how you were able to find twins to work together! LOL I am glad everything is fitting in!

They've been called into the yard masters office on more than one occasion for conduct unbecoming a train crew......

@RSJB18 posted:

Well this is a Weaver so you have a good tutorial....

The newer MTH have the body sides up to full height so they just need figures inserted.

Thanks Mark.

Bob, yes you are doing a great tutorial for my Weaver RS3!  😃 Thank you!!

I agree, both MTH RS3’s have full height body sides with the cab just plopped on.  One is a newer PS3 and the other is a PS2.  There are slight differences with the body and cab windows, but the area we are concerned with looks the same.

This may be a little off topic but, my Peanuts Halloween locomotive & Lionchief Thomas are currently being fixed up by a man named J.D Lathbury in Atlanta, GA. Both of them got their PCBs fried in early 2020.

I hope to get both of them back by the time "Spooky Season" comes back around.

Kyle - A Fellow "Rail-Nerd"

Kyle, I'm sorry both engines' boards were fried.  Did you figure out what caused it; track wiring, not having surge protectors on an old transformer?  That brings up the question, what were you using for track power?  I have not heard of JD, but I live in Northwestern Pennsylvania, so he is quite a ways away from me.

Well Mr Mark, the story goes a little like this. Back in 2019, I bought a Lionel 275 Watt ZW at a local Christmas train show to replace my Lionel CW-80 (Which had recently died on me). It worked fine until it fried the boards of 2 out of the 3 Lionchief locomotives that I mentioned above. I haven't used it ever since that fateful day & I plan on selling it.

Kyle - A Fellow "Rail-Nerd"

Kyle, yes the ZW doesn’t have surge protection for engines with modern electronics.  I made the same mistake, but faired much better than you.  Even though I added proper surge protection to the ZW, I use an MTH Z4000 for my layout.  

Then in that case, how do you add a surge protector to a Lionel ZW? Is there an easy way of doing it? Will it even work?

Kyle - A Fellow "Rail-Nerd"

@The-576-Guy posted:

Then in that case, how do you add a surge protector to a Lionel ZW? Is there an easy way of doing it? Will it even work?

Kyle - A Fellow "Rail-Nerd"

Kyle- If you are only running Lionchief engines, you could buy a Lionel Powerhouse brick. They are rated at 180 watts.

A good ZW will last a lifetime and you can add fast trip circuit breakers easily. I have a KW powering my layout and added 8 amp breakers several years ago. I bought mine from Mouser. Lower amperage ratings are available. The size needed would depend on what you are running. Lighted cars add load, etc.

Lot's of threads on the Forum regarding the subject.

Bob

@RSJB18

Bob I've got a KW I'd like to use but need some breakers.  I remember Peter describing how his modular club built their power and control station, they used a specific electronic breaker for 3 rail trains, I've got the name hear somewhere, but yours looks like a good alternative.  Any chance you could do a little "how to" for your unit?

@coach joe posted:

@RSJB18

Bob I've got a KW I'd like to use but need some breakers.  I remember Peter describing how his modular club built their power and control station, they used a specific electronic breaker for 3 rail trains, I've got the name hear somewhere, but yours looks like a good alternative.  Any chance you could do a little "how to" for your unit?

Pretty straight forward Joe. I went to my electrical supplies and found that a Tel/data jack insert (Leviton) fit the breakers almost perfectly. So I mounted them in the adapter and used a single gang adapter for a 1900 box to mount the breakers. A Decora plate finished off the job.

Wiring was simple- just take the power from the transformer through the breaker to the track bus.

Also added TVSS diodes to each buss. They should be closer to the load side (track) on each power drop, but this is still better than nothing at all.

Bob

Kyle, As Bob said, there are a number of threads on the Forum regarding the subject.  Bob knows electricity and his method is a good one.  There are numerous other ways of doing it.  I like Bob's method because everything is mounted substantially so none of the components will come disconnected as may happen when breakers and TVSs are just hung on the terminals on the back of the ZW.

Forgive my electrical ignorance, I've heard of the TVS diodes before on our great forum but not really sure what they do?  From the name I'm guessing something to do with transient voltage spikes.

@coach joe posted:

Forgive my electrical ignorance, I've heard of the TVS diodes before on our great forum but not really sure what they do?  From the name I'm guessing something to do with transient voltage spikes.

That's it in a nutshell Joe. Lot's more engineering goes into how they work which is beyond my humble skills.....

My Dad was a EE, you'd think it would have worn off on me but......

Some light reading......https://prosurge.com/tvss-transient-voltage-surge-suppressor/

Bob

So is it transformer to track or the other way around?  Wouldn't the circuit breaker pop due to surge?

A railking McDonald's f40ph.  A truly ugly loco.  Pulled the allegedly working electronics out, didn't need them anyway, dropped a bridge rectifer in it until I pick up a cruise commander.  Rattle can repainted as NJT 4120.  Will likely redo it, my painting skills need some work.  Picked up NJT logo from the internet and after several failed attempts got the sizing right.  Learned how to make decals, at least that worked out.  Now to create some passenger cars for it to pull.   

Congratulations, that’s quite an accomplishment.

@coach joe posted:

So is it transformer to track or the other way around?  Wouldn't the circuit breaker pop due to surge?

Yes- Transformer output through the breaker and to the track. The breaker would trip if the initial inrush current exceeded the rating. Example- powering up the track with a derailed car on the track. The current draw through the short would cause the trip. Exactly why we use circuit breakers.
Normally if everything is OK then the breaker wouldn't trip.

Bob

My Weaver RS3 upgrade is nearly complete. I assembled it last night and gave it a test drive. All good except I can hear something rubbing on one of the flywheels. I think I know the culprit and will take a look later and get the shell screwed down. I also need to install a new horn which was missing when I got the engine. The cab interior and figures worked out well. I installed a cab light too. I didn't want it to be too bright and used a 1K resistor. Probably would have been better with a 470 ohm.

Here's a short video running the engine with the Universal remote. I'll take another showing the LC app. The speed can be controlled better with the app which reduces the jerky stops and starts. You can also customize the bell and horn pitch in the app.

I'm very pleased with the results and the install was simple compared to doing a full ERR or PS3/2 stacker. Safe to say I'll be upgrading more basic engines with this method.

Bob

As usual, well done sir!

Bob, do you have the part number for the Lionchief upgrade handy?  Thanks.

John

Another job well done Bob!

Gene

Bob, the RS3 looks and runs great!    I need to back to where your started this project to see if what I have forgotten, since I wasn't filing everything away in my mind since my Weaver RS3 is a fairly new acquisition.  Then I will formulate any questions I may have. 

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

As usual, well done sir!

Thank you Jay.

@Steam Crazy posted:

Bob, do you have the part number for the Lionchief upgrade handy?  Thanks.

John

John- The board was from a LC starter set which is Lionchief w/bluetooth. I think these were their second generation boards The advantage is app and universal remote control. The next gen LC + /BT boards require a feedback sensor on the motor. When GRJ said it's not worth the effort, I listened.....

Bob, that’s a nice deal for all the features the board provides!  The engine runs nice and smooth; smooth acceleration and deceleration too.  Thank you for all the hints.  Yes, the flywheel hitting the cab insert, just grazing it would make the sound.

Thanks, Bob!

John

I have other projects going, but since Bob @RSJB18 presented such a nice description of his Weaver RS3 upgrade, I pulled my Weaver RS3 off the Ceiling Central RR for a look inside.  Let me say that I bought this engine from a Forum member a few months ago.  It doesn't need the LC+ upgrade because the previous owner upgraded it with ERR.  However, as I posted when I got it that it doesn't have any slow speed control.  Opening it up, the upgrade looks very nicely done and I see the motors are wired in parallel.  So first off, I need to wire it in series to see if it responds more to my liking.  I wonder if there will be room for adding a cab insert like Bob did without having to move the circuit boards.  I do dislike looking in a cab window and seeing a motor and flywheel instead of a crew member.  Here is what I have.

It's a very nice looking engine and was offered at a great price.

I can see it has been run quite a lot looking at the pickup rollers.

I think the ERR upgrade was done pretty neatly.

Here is the cab end where the cab insert would go.  If I have to move the circuit boards, there isn't much room on the other end before the boards would hit the other motor.

I'm not that familiar with ERR.  I see it has a Cruise Commander version 4.5.  I know ERR uses add on boards, but at this point I don't know what these two boards are.

Thank you for taking a look see!

Whoa Mark, that looks scary. That’s a job for Dr. Bob.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Whoa Mark, that looks scary. That’s a job for Dr. Bob.

😄😄  Funny, there was a Dr. Bob nearby who ran a weight loss clinic.  😄😄  The Dr. Bob you are referring to will chime in at some point here.  

OK OK OK.......

I'd start with getting the cab interior and see how it fits. If the electronics are solid, I'd hate to see you mess with them.

Better to cut up a $10  piece of plastic then blown up a $200 set of boards.

I'll send you the part numbers.

😁

Thank you, Bob!  I really appreciate the part numbers you sent me.  That can be half the battle.  I totally agree about cutting up plastic rather than risking busting up boards.  😃  Yes, it should run nicely once I rewire the motors.  I’ll take all precautions against damaging the boards doing that.  Not a big deal.  Thank you!!

@RSJB18 posted:

OK OK OK.......

I'd start with getting the cab interior and see how it fits. If the electronics are solid, I'd hate to see you mess with them.

Better to cut up a $10  piece of plastic then blown up a $200 set of boards.

I'll send you the part numbers.

😁

I knew Dr. Bob would arrive to save the patient; and, he’s sending a prescription.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Bob!  I really appreciate the part numbers you sent me.  That can be half the battle.  I totally agree about cutting up plastic rather than risking busting up boards.  😃  Yes, it should run nicely once I rewire the motors.  I’ll take all precautions against damaging the boards doing that.  Not a big deal.  Thank you!!

Mark- I'm far from a ERR expert but the Cruise Commander will allow for 32 or 100 speed steps. You can download the instructions from 3rd rail/ ERR and check the programming.
Gunner John would be the best resource for answers.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Mark- I'm far from a ERR expert but the Cruise Commander will allow for 32 or 100 speed steps. You can download the instructions from 3rd rail/ ERR and check the programming.
Gunner John would be the best resource for answers.

Bob

The programming steps are all in the installation manual. Speed steps, large/small motor, cruise on/off, etc.

Pete

Bob, Pete, thank you very much!!  I will download the instructions and program once I rewire the motors.  Yes, John is such a great fount of knowledge on this subject!  Thank you.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, Pete, thank you very much!!  I will download the instructions and program once I rewire the motors.  Yes, John is such a great fount of knowledge on this subject!  Thank you.

Mark- my (our) point is that you shouldn't need to re-wire the motors. The board programming should solve the speed control issues. I would start by doing a full reset of the boards, and then program according to the instructions.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Mark- my (our) point is that you shouldn't need to re-wire the motors. The board programming should solve the speed control issues. I would start by doing a full reset of the boards, and then program according to the instructions.

Bob

Ohhhh!  Now I see!    🤦‍♂️  Thank you both, Bob and Pete!!  I will report back after doing the full reset and programming!  

@RSJB18 posted:

Mark- I'm far from a ERR expert but the Cruise Commander will allow for 32 or 100 speed steps. You can download the instructions from 3rd rail/ ERR and check the programming.
Gunner John would be the best resource for answers.

Bob

Correct default is 32, need to be programmed on engine set up.

Craig

PennCentralShops

@ThatGuy posted:

Correct default is 32, need to be programmed on engine set up.

Craig

PennCentralShops

Thank you too, Craig!  So you can teach an old dog new tricks!  It just takes a bit of clarification. 😃

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you too, Craig!  So you can teach an old dog new tricks!  It just takes a bit of clarification. 😃

Craig, thank you for the photographs of the instructions.  They look straightforward, but offer several variations!  I like it!! 👍🏻

That was certainly quick and easy.  I programmed the Weaver RS3 and the video shows the results.  Actually it runs even slower, but I had trouble setting the speed and holding the smartphone to get the video.  Thank you Bob, Pete, Craig!!

Great job Mark! All I can say is you all are a lot braver then I am! LOL

@Mark Boyce posted:

That was certainly quick and easy.  I programmed the Weaver RS3 and the video shows the results.  Actually it runs even slower, but I had trouble setting the speed and holding the smartphone to get the video.  Thank you Bob, Pete, Craig!!

Looks great Mark. Glad it was a simple fix.

Bob

Thank you, Mike and Bob!  I was half expecting it not to work the first try, and I would have to do it again.  That is what happened on my two PS3 upgrade file loads.  

@Mark Boyce posted:

That was certainly quick and easy.  I programmed the Weaver RS3 and the video shows the results.  Actually it runs even slower, but I had trouble setting the speed and holding the smartphone to get the video.  Thank you Bob, Pete, Craig!!

My pleasure and loooks greeeeat

@ThatGuy posted:

My pleasure and loooks greeeeat

I was disappointed with it when I got it, but I should have known a reprogram would help.

@Mark Boyce posted:

That was certainly quick and easy.  I programmed the Weaver RS3 and the video shows the results.  Actually it runs even slower, but I had trouble setting the speed and holding the smartphone to get the video.  Thank you Bob, Pete, Craig!!

Looks like a really good speed Mark.  Nice job.

( instead of holdoing the smart phone get a phone holder with an adapter and and mount it on a tripod maybe?    )

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Looks like a really good speed Mark.  Nice job.

( instead of holdoing the smart phone get a phone holder with an adapter and and mount it on a tripod maybe?    )

Thank you, Dallas!  You have a good point.  I can tell some some others are using a tripod and some kind of holder because their videos are so steady. Also, if I had just done a runby with the engine already moving, I could have just left the remote sitting on the layout, hands off.

@RSJB18 Great job on your Weaver RS 3!

”I'm very pleased with the results and the install was simple compared to doing a full ERR or PS3/2 stacker. Safe to say I'll be upgrading more basic engines with this method. “
Funny your simple scared me off. Thinking about all those connectors that you were dealing with.

@pennsyfan posted:

@RSJB18 Great job on your Weaver RS 3!

”I'm very pleased with the results and the install was simple compared to doing a full ERR or PS3/2 stacker. Safe to say I'll be upgrading more basic engines with this method. “
Funny your simple scared me off. Thinking about all those connectors that you were dealing with.

Those little plugs do look intimidating. I bought ready made harnesses as recommended by GRJ. Much better than trying to build them from scratch. Just not worth the aggravation. In the case of the LC boards, the plugs are labeled so it's easy to know what to connect to each.

Thanks

@RSJB18 posted: Much better than trying to build them from scratch. Just not worth the aggravation.

Thanks

Well if we didn't spend sooooo much time on the FORUM getting a plethora of ideas for our layouts we would have more time and peace of mind to DIY.

God speed Bob.

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Well if we didn't spend sooooo much time on the FORUM getting a plethora of ideas for our layouts we would have more time and peace of mind to DIY.

God speed Bob.

Dallas, for folks like me between layouts its a great time to collect ideas! LOL

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Well if we didn't spend sooooo much time on the FORUM getting a plethora of ideas for our layouts we would have more time and peace of mind to DIY.

God speed Bob.

It’s the ideas that get me into trouble; mainly my own, e.g. I had the brain storm to create an elevated subway track. It eventually turned out ok after two years of aggravation. That’s when I coined this phrase; and someone liked it so much they made a simulated needle point. It’s now hanging at the entrance to my train room.

@mike g. posted:

Dallas, for folks like me between layouts its a great time to collect ideas! LOL

@pennsyfan posted:

It’s the ideas that get me into trouble; mainly my own, e.g. I had the brain storm to create an elevated subway track. It eventually turned out ok after two years of aggravation. That’s when I coined this phrase; and someone liked it so much they made a simulated needle point. It’s now hanging at the entrance to my train room.

Beautiful thoughts gentelmen .

@Mark Boyce posted:

That was certainly quick and easy.  I programmed the Weaver RS3 and the video shows the results.  Actually it runs even slower, but I had trouble setting the speed and holding the smartphone to get the video.

Nice work Mark! I have absolutely no idea about the inner workings of these locomotives and I appreciate what I learn from the members. Heck, I had no clue what a BCR was until I heard it from Mr. Muffin’s latest York video.

Gene

@Genemed posted:

Nice work Mark! I have absolutely no idea about the inner workings of these locomotives and I appreciate what I learn from the members. Heck, I had no clue what a BCR was until I heard it from Mr. Muffin’s latest York video.

Gene

Thank you, Gene!  It's like someone who doesn't understand the inner workings of their car.  You don't have to understand it to use it.  You just need to know who to contact when there is a problem!

Took the RS3 apart last night to fix the rubbing of the flywheel against the cab interior.......Missed by about a 1/8" so now I have to take it apart one more time........

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Took the RS3 apart last night to fix the rubbing of the flywheel against the cab interior.......Missed by about a 1/8" so now I have to take it apart one more time........

Bob

Ugh!

@Mark Boyce posted:

Ugh!

Yea........although I used more colorful language.......

It's hard to measure the parts because the interior has to be installed inside the cab. It looked like a 1/4" had to come off but it's closer to 3/8" plus.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Took the RS3 apart last night to fix the rubbing of the flywheel against the cab interior.......Missed by about a 1/8" so now I have to take it apart one more time........

Bob

Perhaps you should consider a malted beverage prior to recommencing.