WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@VHubbard posted:

You should never hit the total button to know the cost of the hobby.

My wife is a teacher and it is in her DNA to keep one copy of everything.  We bought a ScanSnap IX300 scanner and 2-3 weeks later we eliminated about 1000 pounds of paper and got a lot of our storage back.   

That is what I am doing with my Lionel Manuals also.  Much easier to find vs. digging through a bookshelf and boxes. 

We were just talking about a receipt scanner. I'm tired of all the paper, besides they fade to nothing after a few years.

I have a lot of manuals in PDF files already too.

That Sub looks good for it's age.

Bob

Thx Scotie, I will look up LIRR # 401. I appreciate the info you sent.

btw, there are some good photographs of #410 on RR Archives photo site.

Now That’s a lot of 40 feet of double diesel power!

This 226E has finally found its way to the top of the project pile:

An estate sale find, it will require a thorough cleaning/lubrication, along with a few cosmetic repairs. I think I have everything needed except a replacement nickel whistle casting for the boiler top. Should be fun.

PD

I've said in the past there are times I feel like every train I own is on the workbench.  This is one of those times.

First, I've got a K-Line 4-6-2 New York Central No. 3010 hauling the milk train around the layout.  The air whistle in the tender was a little slow to respond and at times a little weak.  I pulled the shell to see if a little lube would help the situation.  With the shell off I activated the whistle and held it for 15-20 seconds to give the whistle some exercise.  The next time I activated the whistle I got no response at all.  I think my problem lies in the MDK-031 circuit board that controls the whistle but I lack sufficient knowledge to trouble shoot the board.  I guess I'll have to search for a replacement board.  Trainz, the current repository for K-Line parts left after the company's demise does not have one listed.  Any suggestions on trouble shooting or alternative replacements would be appreciated.

Next is a new to me Weaver Genuine Ford Parts 50 foot box car that I picked up to go along with the Mopar and Chevy Parts box cars I already owned.

These Weaver box cars run pretty light so I need to add weight to NMRA standards and paint the scribed black plastic a more realistic wood tone.  I've done this to the other two already.  This should be a relatively easy one but it's still on the work bench.

Lastly, I really like the K-Line Plymouth switchers but I don't usually like the price tags on the secondary market.  This guy was on eBay with a 3 car set at a starting bid of $100.  I checked the listing to make sure it was a functioning engine and placed a bid I was comfortable making without checking all the pictures.  Well this little guy has some issues.  Missing pilot foot board, one missing ladder rail, a bent handrail along the hood and both front marker lights are broken off.

Here's the good news.  Last year I won an eBay auction for a lot of Plymouth parts from NYC No. 80.  Included in that lot was cab, hood, foot boards, and the missing and bent handrails.  Yeah!  I also found the marker lamps, without lenses, on Trainz.com.  All I have to do is figure out how to change and procure the broken light bulbs.  My biggest concern is the lobster claws, front and back.  I have two other Plymouths, One came in a set with ore cars and still wears "scale" couplers front and back because the ore cars have the same "scale" couplers. The other came to me with the "scale" coupler on the front and a lobster claw on the rear and a spare lobster claw for the front, no spare "scale" coupler.  I would not mind the lobster claws on my new Plymouth but all three pieces of rolling stock that came in the set are equipped with scale couplers.  These cars appear to be S scale and look great behind the Plymouth but won't be interchanging with any other equipment I own so I need to get some "scale" couplers for this Plymouth.  The issue is K-Line had their own 'scale" couplers manufactured.  The ones on the rolling stock are very similar to Kadees but the couplers on the switcher mount differently than any Kadee I've seen.  See the little tabs on the side for the mounting screws.  If I can't find a pair of replacements I'll have to come up with some sort of alternative.

Coach, I would bet that Bob RSJB would be able to provide some insight.

Question asking for a new friend, in a Big boy is the battery in the tender and he doesn't plan on running it

How soon should he remove the battery?

@mike g. posted:

Question asking for a new friend, in a Big boy is the battery in the tender and he doesn't plan on running it

How soon should he remove the battery?

Mike- Make and model#? Will help with the answers.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Coach, I would bet that Bob RSJB would be able to provide some insight.

+ @coach joe-  They came stock with a standard dummy coupler. Some of mine (6) had a set of operable couplers in the box.

I just looked through my stock and I have a pair of those Kadee style couplers, one is broken but they're yours if you want them. I doubt I'll ever switch my fleet over to Kadees.

Drop me an email or PM.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Mike- Make and model#? Will help with the answers.

Hi Bob I haven't the faintest idea all I know is it is a premier MTH BigBoy.

@mike g. posted:

Hi Bob I haven't the faintest idea all I know is it is a premier MTH BigBoy.

That helps Mike. If it's a PS3 there are no batteries any longer to worry about. If he's concerned then open the tender and take a look.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

So I guess this is work bench related. Today I pulled my pile of O&M manuals, receipts, and miscellany off the shelf next to my bench and organized it all in a file box. I recently pulled the box out of my attic and tossed all of the old bills and receipts dating back to 1998......

I started updating my Train inventory as I went too. I've promised the CEO that I would get all of this organized so that when she's sees what I've really spent, she can kill me and know the value......

I still have to go through a big stack of Trainz receipts..... Yea...I said BIG!

Bob

The stack has been added to the inventory and filed away... 40 receipts.....but who's counting.....

I still need to go through the rest of my purchases both new and from the other usual sources, including the Forum. Onward!

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

That helps Mike. If it's a PS3 there are no batteries any longer to worry about. If he's concerned then open the tender and take a look.

Bob

Thanks Bob so it has a BRC. And he doesn't have to worry about taking it out?

@mike g. posted:

Thanks Bob so it has a BRC. And he doesn't have to worry about taking it out?

I can't say for sure Mike, I'm only assuming.

Get the exact model # and look it up on the MTH site to be sure.

@RSJB18 posted:

I can't say for sure Mike, I'm only assuming.

Get the exact model # and look it up on the MTH site to be sure.

Thanks

Absolutely nothing! After finishing up my UPP2066 project, , I cleaned off my desk and put everything away. It's the first time in about a year it's been this way. Feels good. Now I can move on to something else and mess it all up over again.

@BenLMaggi posted:

Here is a Bangor & Aroostook Railroad (BAR) converted troop sleeper caboose I have been working on. It started off as an Atlas car and I modified the side windows, cut open the end vestibules and added scratchbuilt bulkhead doorways, added scratchbuilt bay windows, and did some other modifications.  It just needs its two-rail trucks swapped for three-rail trucks and couplers (which I recently obtained) and then the corner steps need to be added.

Are you the Benjamin Maggi who recently became a NMRA Master Model Railroader (MMR)?  If so, congrats - it's quite an achievement.

Here’s my BNSF patched GP60 that is pretty much done.

Larry

How about background buildings on the workbench?  The ones standing are from a Korber Power and Electric office building cut in half on my new bandsaw. The other is a Korber background apartment building just out of the box (new this Christmas). The resin casting moves quite a bit, so needs support to square up the building.  I am using 3mm ply (primed both sides) for the floors and roof. 1/4 inch square basswood provides support for the corners.  This was the first time Rustoleum spray primer did not want to stick for me, I presume it has something to do with the resin. Krylon spray primer and an airbrush acrylic primer seemed to work much better.  I am going to try airbrushing on the brick color with added color variation and weathering to create more visual interest. Superglue seems to work well, but I am adding a thin gusset of e6000 on the inside corners for added flexure strength.

note - there is a youtube video on a Korber build also identifying an issue with the primer on this resin.

I have painted several of these buildings with Krylon primer and have never had a problem. I washed the parts with a mild Dawn dish soap solution prior to painting to remove the release agent.

@ScoutingDad Jeff looks like a good start!

Have you ever done something silly? Here was a $20 ATSF MTH Doodlebug, stripped of motors and boards, that I bought at the MTH parts booth at York, 2004. I decided to be "smart"and do a GM&O D'bug dummy for "free". I had all the materials. So...

Labor. It's all about labor. I did add the GM&O-correct headlight engineer's visors, and radiator louvers (which came out OK, if I do say so myself). Chassis repaint. Tedious work - straight stripes look so innocent on the decal paper. Ditto straight masking. The road name spacing is not correct for the GM&O Doodlebugs, but the MTH/Lionel body shell is also not correct for the GM&O, so I chose a cleaner look.

And I've still got a dummy - but, one motor is enough for a D'bug, and I have another cheap PS1 version out of which I will rob 1 motor...eventually.

Maybe I should remove the black-painted masking tape from the headlight lens....

Looks good. It's nice all it took was your expensive labor!

@D500 posted:

Have you ever done something silly? Here was a $20 ATSF MTH Doodlebug, stripped of motors and boards, that I bought at the MTH parts booth at York, 2004. I decided to be "smart"and do a GM&O D'bug dummy for "free". I had all the materials. So...

Labor. It's all about labor. I did add the GM&O-correct headlight engineer's visors, and radiator louvers (which came out OK, if I do say so myself). Chassis repaint. Tedious work - straight stripes look so innocent on the decal paper. Ditto straight masking. The road name spacing is not correct for the GM&O Doodlebugs, but the MTH/Lionel body shell is also not correct for the GM&O, so I chose a cleaner look.

And I've still got a dummy - but, one motor is enough for a D'bug, and I have another cheap PS1 version out of which I will rob 1 motor...eventually.

Maybe I should remove the black-painted masking tape from the headlight lens....

Live it. Great job D500

@mike g. posted:

Looks good. It's nice all it took was your expensive labor!

Hi Mike,

IMHO, projects like this are fun, not labor.

But I get your point

My Harmonized K-Line Hudson is now complete and ready for the layout running test.  Pat (Harmonyards) did the chassis-ectomy, mounted the Cruise Commander, and installed a bracket for the chuff generator.  I added GRJ's chuff generator and super-chuffer boards, wiring everything up.  It runs quite nicely on the test stand.  I especially appreciate the Rule 17 headlight control and the smoke control of the Super-Chuffer.  This is such a pretty model.  While the final cost wasn't trivial, it was well worth it.

Lousy videography (smartphone) but one gets the idea of how it runs ... 

Yours looks great, Karl!  I’m sure it runs even better!

HI @KarlDL I am with marm what a beautiful engine, I hope you will post a video of it running when you get a chance!

While not a major project, I thought I'd upgrade the speaker system on my WbB Congressional GG1. I added a driver and used the child-proof lids (MRP 18D 45-400) from a couple of pill bottles with the threaded liner removed to create 2 upward-firing acoustic suspension speakers. I was careful not to damage the edges of the lids when removing the liners and cemented the drivers in with contact cement:

The front speaker is based on the original WbB 2" driver and the rear is based on a nice German-made 2" driver from from Visaton:

I found that, even with extended running (1 hr!) of the traction motor cooling fan and bell sounds with the loco in neutral, the True Blast board, particularly the output triac, didn't overheat with the 4-ohm load from the two 8-ohm speakers wired in parallel but produced a LOT more sound with a "stereo" effect, especially the Leslie A200 airhorn. I mounted the speakers to the chassis base with 3M "Dual Lock" pads so the speakers could be removed for loco maintenance:

I did have to modify the front and rear cab windows as shown below and cement them in with CA to keep them clear of the speakers. I could have left them off to get even more sound out, but that compromised appearance:

So, here's the finished product "sounding off" before departing. Unfortunately, the cell phone mic doesn't do her justice so you'll have to take my word that even the fan sound can be heard over the wheel noise of my pre-Bachmann Williams reproduction PW Congressional set when she's pulling it at speed:

Now I hope I can find a "derelict" JLC G that has had zinc pest destroy the trucks to get the boards and flywheel tach to upgrade the electronics of this beauty.

While working on my girder bridge project, gotta have a side project going to pass the time waiting for paint and glue to dry.

I'm making scrap loads for a couple Menards gondolas. These cars are so light weight that they won't stay on the rails. I'm going to put weights on the bottom of the load. I used a stainless steel scouring pad.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

While working on my girder bridge project, gotta have a side project going to pass the time waiting for paint and glue to dry.

I'm making scrap loads for a couple Menards gondolas. These cars are so light weight that they won't stay on the rails. I'm going to put weights on the bottom of the load. I used a stainless steel scouring pad.

Bob

Looks good Bob, I am glad you said it was a scouring pad. At first I thought it was a bunch of shavings.from a drill press!

One of the major reasons I am not making a whole lot of visible progress on the layout. Yet another idea started nearly a year ago. Built a cardboard mockup of a freight house, placed it in position and did not a whole lot else except look for the "perfect" windows.

I wanted the look of a window wall between concrete posts, but had a hard time finding these that would meet my design idea. A set mounted 3x2 gives me nearly 12 inches in section width enough for a box car to unload. This is going to be a "big" building 36x8x16 tall, but nearly 1/2 is servicing my lower yard - it does not stick up all that far to be objectionable. Each floor is 22 feet high, common for buildings of this age.

On the right are the individual window units, about 1mm thick, plus the 1mm frame. Brick molding is added around the perimeter to bring the assembly thickness to 3mm which happens to be the thickness of the building baltic birch plywood. (Maybe I should consider 3mm MDF)

Another mockup to decide the appropriate window arrangement. I decided this is what I was looking for. Now to order freight doors and windows and doors for the other side. I'll have to sneak up on the height of the first floor to work in the freight dock at elevation with the box car doors.

BTW - the windows do not come with glazing. The mullions have 3M peel and stick backing and are meant to be stuck directly to whatever glazing you choose. Nice for me not to have all the supporting stuff in the way if meant for single panel installs.

It's going to look great when it's done Jeff!

@RSJB18 posted:

While working on my girder bridge project, gotta have a side project going to pass the time waiting for paint and glue to dry.

I'm making scrap loads for a couple Menards gondolas. These cars are so light weight that they won't stay on the rails. I'm going to put weights on the bottom of the load. I used a stainless steel scouring pad.

Bob

Great idea Bob, haven’t seen that before. You’re always thinking of projects to keep the mind working. Are you planning to weather it?

Gene

@Genemed posted:

Great idea Bob, haven’t seen that before. You’re always thinking of projects to keep the mind working. Are you planning to weather it?

Gene

Yea- I'll spray it over the weekend if the weather cooperates.

Thanks

3rd Rail J1d Hudson received a Cruise Commander upgrade, eliminating the TAS motherboard and motor driver.   Reused original Lionel Railsounds 4 sound card, with a Lionel RS motherboard/power supply card.  No issues with the TAS fan-driven smoke system.  Original Hall-effect tender wheel sensor used for chuff rather than a reed switch and magnet.  Everything works as it should.  Unfortunately, the drawbar seems to have taken leave at some point, so no train hauling until I can find or fabricate a replacement.

@RSJB18 posted:

While working on my girder bridge project, gotta have a side project going to pass the time waiting for paint and glue to dry.

I'm making scrap loads for a couple Menards gondolas. These cars are so light weight that they won't stay on the rails. I'm going to put weights on the bottom of the load. I used a stainless steel scouring pad.

Bob

As usual, ingenious Bob.

This is a picture of what I’m running into the past several months, great friends going to their eternal home and on my work bench are their trains, looking for a new home. I’m inspecting, testing all of these nice trains as they will be going to new homes, somewhere, someday, somehow…. It’s fun work, just sad… Happy Railroad Everyone

@leapinlarry posted:

This is a picture of what I’m running into the past several months, great friends going to their eternal home and on my work bench are their trains, looking for a new home. I’m inspecting, testing all of these nice trains as they will be going to new homes, somewhere, someday, somehow…. It’s fun work, just sad… Happy Railroad Everyone

Larry, it shows that you're a great person and friend for doing this for your friends and their loved ones! I wish you luck in your work and please take time to enjoy the engines and cars you are testing.

Just off my workbench yesterday are these two LIRR cars (Crew and Tool):

Here are the "before" pics:

Here is my "complete" custom painted LIRR train:

Made progress on my scrap load today in between Honey-do's......

I added another 1/2 scouring pad glued to the base pad. Sprayed the whole thing with a dark bronze rattle can. Got lucky with a 58 degree day here on LI. About a 1/2 hour after I finished, the wind picked up and the temps dropped about 20 deg. and are bottoming out in the 20's tonight

Then I gave it an acrylic wash with dark brown, black, and a drop of dark red.

Still debating if I can call it done or not.....

Thoughts?

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Made progress on my scrap load today in between Honey-do's......

I added another 1/2 scouring pad glued to the base pad. Sprayed the whole thing with a dark bronze rattle can. Got lucky with a 58 degree day here on LI. About a 1/2 hour after I finished, the wind picked up and the temps dropped about 20 deg. and are bottoming out in the 20's tonight

Then I gave it an acrylic wash with dark brown, black, and a drop of dark red.

Still debating if I can call it done or not.....

Thoughts?

Bob

Looks Bob! At my end I would think maybe a little more rust color. But that's just looking on my phone.

Bob, I agree with Mike on the rust, unless you intend the scrap to have just come out of the scrap factory! 😃

Yea. My thoughts exactly. Not rusty enough.

To be continued.

Bob

@RSJB18,

I thought the original looked fine.  You never know what'll show up in a scrap gondola.  In the after picture you could see that the shine has definitely been toned down.

Bob, did you weigh the car down?

Converted this Lionel Southern autorack to 2 rail with Kadee 753 trucks and 746 couplers.

Sometimes a short, easy project is a good distraction. 

@RSJB18 posted:

Yea. My thoughts exactly. Not rusty enough.

To be continued.

Bob

Bob, I agree with Mark and Mike, it needs some rust.

Gene

@Tim Mc posted:

Converted this Lionel Southern autorack to 2 rail with Kadee 753 trucks and 746 couplers.

Sometimes a short, easy project is a good distraction. 

Tim good looking job! I have several cars that are kadee and I really need to redo them.

Nice work

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash later.

@Tranquil Hollow RR- I'm going to attach the weights to the bottom of the load after the painting is done. I have to weigh the car with the load in it to see how much I need to add. I've found 1.5 -2.0 oz usually is enough.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash later.

@Tranquil Hollow RR- I'm going to attach the weights to the bottom of the load after the painting is done. I have to weigh the car with the load in it to see how much I need to add. I've found 1.5 -2.0 oz usually is enough.

Bob

Nice Bob, I think your right one more and done! 😉

@RSJB18 posted:

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash later.

Bob

Bob, noticeably better. One more wash certainly wouldn’t hurt if you were to do it, but it could pass as is for me.

Gene

@RSJB18 posted:

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash

Bob

Bob, FWIW, in the future if you plan on doing more rust weathering, I’ve had great luck with these washes. I did these chains this afternoon. Tomorrow I’ll spot brush them with the dark rust for more detail.

Gene

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

I don't think there's a right or wrong when it comes to brick roads Mark. But I do like the color on the left one a little better.

@Genemed posted:

Bob, FWIW, in the future if you plan on doing more rust weathering, I’ve had great luck with these washes. I did these chains this afternoon. Tomorrow I’ll spot brush them with the dark rust for more detail.

Gene

Thanks Gene. I'm a cheapskate when it comes to scenery, I'd rather put my train budget into the trains......

Which I do......liberally......

That said, sometimes it's easier to buy the right stuff. I'm using cheap acrylics and mixing to a color I like.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

I don't think there's a right or wrong when it comes to brick roads Mark. But I do like the color on the left one a little better.

Thanks Gene. I'm a cheapskate when it comes to scenery, I'd rather put my train budget into the trains......

Which I do......liberally......

That said, sometimes it's easier to buy the right stuff. I'm using cheap acrylics and mixing to a color I like.

Bob

Bob, I agree with you.  I’m probably just thinking of how these attempts compare to what I had in mind. 😃  I think the left one looks better too.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

I concur Mark, left side color looks better. Maybe some black smudges in spots. Good job 👍.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

With further observation Mark, there are a series of bricks that are similar but a little darker. This could account for you not being totally sold on the result. When the weather breaks you might try letting them sit out in the sun.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

With further observation Mark, there are a series of bricks that are similar but a little darker. This could account for you not being totally sold on the result. When the weather breaks you might try letting them sit out in the sun.

Jay, I gave a thicker wash to some areas, just to see what difference it makes.  Jeff gave me some ideas that should help me out.

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

@Mark Boyce posted:

Jay, I gave a thicker wash to some areas, just to see what difference it makes.  Jeff gave me some ideas that should help me out.

Mark- I agree with Jay and Jeff- some dry brushing will bring out some details that may not show up now.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

Bob that turned out looking great! Don't worry about the new look on the gondola it will look with time! Just like the rest of us in the model RR.

Thank you, Bob @RSJB18 I didn’t do anything more with the two examples, but I did roll a new section in place on Monday using some more tips from Jeff.  It looks pretty good before painting.  I was thinking of rolling more before painting.  I’ll be posting.

@Leroof posted:

it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.

Does anyone want to guess what where and when this was manufactured?

One day she will appear working in Saturday Morning Switcher post possibly!

Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.

Love it. I even like the noise - so old-school O-scale. No sissy quiet-running here. It sounds like a real piece of machinery.

@trestleking posted:

like a pig in a mud hole...perfect home for a scrap yard gon...

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

I would too, that looks perfect! As far as the new look of rolling stock, I feel the same way, I’m just not ready to even begin thinking about weathering them.

Gene

@Genemed posted:

I would too, that looks perfect! As far as the new look of rolling stock, I feel the same way, I’m just not ready to even begin thinking about weathering them.

Gene

Yep- I still need to weigh the car and see if I need to add any additional weights. The load by itself might be enough.

Thanks

@RSJB18 Bob, I am with you on not weathering rolling stock.  I have too many other projects I would rather do.

@RSJB18 posted:

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

That's some nice looking junk and scrap you have there.  If you decide to get into weathering (although I agree that it's a rabbit hole and I can't bring myself to mess up a nice car), there are tons of inexpensive common postwar and MPC gondolas that will gladly give their all for your efforts.

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

It looks good Bob. Did the car lift off the track when it was empty?  Did it stay on the track with the extra weight that you added after the first run?

@pennsyfan posted:

It looks good Bob. Did the car lift off the track when it was empty?  Did it stay on the track with the extra weight that you added after the first run?

Bob- Empty, the car would get pushed off the track completely. With the added weight it holds the rails OK on most passes. The steamer has a fixed pilot, I'm sure with a diesel it will sit down just fine. I'll have to try a diesel next.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

You probably already know about NMRA recommended practice for car weight, but just in case...  for O scale, it's 5 ounces + 1 ounce per inch of length.  So a 9 to 10-inch gondola should have a total weight of 14-15 ounces.  Although it's technically still underweight, there's no value in making it any heavier than it needs to be in order to stay on the track.  Can get tricky with O27 curves - gotta be strategic regarding where it fits into a train.

https://www.nmra.org/beginner/weight

@Mallard4468 posted:

You probably already know about NMRA recommended practice for car weight, but just in case...  for O scale, it's 5 ounces + 1 ounce per inch of length.  So a 9 to 10-inch gondola should have a total weight of 14-15 ounces.  Although it's technically still underweight, there's no value in making it any heavier than it needs to be in order to stay on the track.  Can get tricky with O27 curves - gotta be strategic regarding where it fits into a train.

https://www.nmra.org/beginner/weight

Yea- It's still light but I've found that an ounce or two doesn't make a huge difference. Car placement and how couplers interact is more critical on my tight curves.

Thanks

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

Love that scale and wouldn't even think to question it's accuracy.

@coach joe posted:

Love that scale and wouldn't even think to question it's accuracy.

Thanks Joe. My wife sells stuff online. The .25 oz is verified by the USPS postal scales.

It came from her Grandmother's kitchen.

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

Bob, another job well done. And that scale; they don’t makem like that anymore.

For @pennsyfan and @Mallard4468-

I tried the loaded car behind a WbB NW-2 tonight. The car ran fine through the layout. Can't say the same for a comparable empty car.

With 4oz of added weight it made it out of the same curve and stayed on the rails

Granted...these are Menards cars with less than the best trucks and wheels.

Bob

Marx 666.  Upgraded with reverse unit lockout switch and LED headlight.

The post “Show us your Derricks and Maintenance-of-way cars” inspired me to search for a suitable car to occupy my workbench. The DM&IR repurposed a number of coaches for maintenance duty. The Duluth Missabe & Iron Range Historical Society website provided me with three options and the purchase of a preowned Lionel NYC coach provided the canvas. 

W30, a track department car became the target. It’s designated as a sleeper.

The pre-painted look highlights some of the added detail. On this car I added the electrical power connecters and holders for marker lights to the vestibules.   Marker lights were required only if it was last car of the train.   I also removed doors from the vestibules, added appropriate wire grab irons, rivets detail to the exposed vestibule area and cut back the floor to reveal the steps.

Boarded up several windows per prototype, added fuel/propane tank for cooking stove, kitchen vent and two stacks to venting wood/coal heaters.  

The car is ready for the paint shop.   I have removed the silhouette windows as I plan to detail the interior.   I’m hoping to learn more about the interior arrangement.   If my research ends up in a blind alley, I will do a fantasy setup. I assume the car provided day seating, bunks, kitchen, a heat source, shower and bathrooms so I will do my best to make it functional. Added wood strips to the frame to provide access and clearance for wires and the swing mechanism needed for the trucks and couplers. Will attach a styrene floor over that to support the interior detail.   

Always fun to keep busy with a new project!    Still managing to avoid weathering!  

Cheers, Dave

Dave, that’s a great idea for a car.  I’m sure I have enough projects to keep me from ever weathering 😄

@darlander posted:

The post “Show us your Derricks and Maintenance-of-way cars” inspired me to search for a suitable car to occupy my workbench. The DM&IR repurposed a number of coaches for maintenance duty. The Duluth Missabe & Iron Range Historical Society website provided me with three options and the purchase of a preowned Lionel NYC coach provided the canvas.

W30, a track department car became the target. It’s designated as a sleeper.

Always fun to keep busy with a new project!    Still managing to avoid weathering!  

Cheers, Dave

That's a cool project Dave. I'm with you on keeping the bench occupied. I just need to keep the CEO otherwise occupied at the same time.....

I doubt that modern railroads still operate this way. Hotels are around every corner now.

Bob

@darlander posted:

The post “Show us your Derricks and Maintenance-of-way cars” inspired me to search for a suitable car to occupy my workbench. The DM&IR repurposed a number of coaches for maintenance duty. The Duluth Missabe & Iron Range Historical Society website provided me with three options and the purchase of a preowned Lionel NYC coach provided the canvas.

W30, a track department car became the target. It’s designated as a sleeper.

Boarded up several windows per prototype, added fuel/propane tank for cooking stove, kitchen vent and two stacks to venting wood/coal heaters.

Always fun to keep busy with a new project!    Still managing to avoid weathering!  

Cheers, Dave

Dave what a wonderful project, I am going to love to fallow along!

I fi d it kind of funny, here you are turning a nice passenger car into a mow car and here I am just dreaming of the day I have extra cash for a couple more to pull behind my UP 4-8-4! 😆

@mike g. posted:

Dave what a wonderful project, I am going to love to fallow along!

I fi d it kind of funny, here you are turning a nice passenger car into a mow car and here I am just dreaming of the day I have extra cash for a couple more to pull behind my UP 4-8-4! 😆

Mike, the car (New in the box) was only $39 before shipping.   All other materials came from my parts pile!   Cheap fun!

Cheers, Dave

PS:  You have a great new train room!   I enjoy following your progress!  

@darlander posted:

Mike, the car (New in the box) was only $39 before shipping.   All other materials came from my parts pile!   Cheap fun!

Cheers, Dave

PS:  You have a great new train room!   I enjoy following your progress!  

Thanks Dave, it's funny sometimes I think my parts pile is getting to big, but I always find something to do with it!

@RSJB18 posted:

That's a cool project Dave. I'm with you on keeping the bench occupied. I just need to keep the CEO otherwise occupied at the same time.....

I doubt that modern railroads still operate this way. Hotels are around every corner now.

Bob

Thanks Bob for the reply!   In the days of the DMIR railroad expansion, motels were few are far between.   I'm sure it was a big convenience keeping close tabs on the crew by housing them on site and away from harms way.   Regardless, I think the car is a unique piece of equipment and a fun project that will become a nice display feature.   Most people say that a layout is never done but in my situation and age (currently on my 85th trip around the sun) my layout is basically finished and it is nice to undertake small projects to keep my interest.    At least when working on the bench, I seldom have to crawl under the bench.  That's a plus!  

Cheers, Dave

@Mark Boyce posted:

Dave, that’s a great idea for a car.  I’m sure I have enough projects to keep me from ever weathering 😄

Thanks Mark!   Yes, it's about time I start weathering some rolling stock.   Before I know it, I may personally weather to a point where I am unable to weather my trains!!!!!  

Cheers, Dave

@darlander posted:

Thanks Mark!   Yes, it's about time I start weathering some rolling stock.   Before I know it, I may personally weather to a point where I am unable to weather my trains!!!!!  

Cheers, Dave

Dave, I understand.  You have a few years on me.  Personally I can't stand the thought of weathering the great looking cars I have.  I guess I like the showroom look!