WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

Working on rewiring American Flyer wide gauge motors. The biggest problem are the wheels especially when removing without distorting them. 

Looks familiar Alex. Also working on a Niagara. Mine is getting a four lobe cam and the other usual upgrades, cab curtains, cut bar chain, new rod bolts.

Pete

Now those are rod bolts.  Nice.

Did you do all that; or aftermarket?

Somewhat of bit larger scale, these are from the 0-4-0 Vulcan steam lokie our preservation society in Ashley acquired a little over a week ago. Not sure where these parts go, but I'm sure we'll figure it out when we begin our restoration assessment. Not too bad for 105 years old!

I buy the allen heads and drill the dimples. I wanted a look closer to the prototype.

Pete

Hi Guys   I haven't posted in awhile because I am so busy   Just wanted to post a picture of what I am working on

@bluelinec4 posted:

Hi Guys   I haven't posted in awhile because I am so busy   Just wanted to post a picture of what I am working on

 

LOL! Same here! Our local craft brewery burned down the day after Memorial Day. They are still brewing and selling their beers at a weekly farmer’s market. Saturday morning I wake up and go to market to support they’re rebuilding efforts. This gets repeated every Saturday!

Have missed your lay-out updates!

Redball342

I'm working twice as hard as Ben!

Well among the other things that have kept me busy other than trains is ....working on the Workbench! Lol

  Finally have all my parts bins in one location 

Al

@Norton posted:

Looks familiar Alex. Also working on a Niagara. Mine is getting a four lobe cam and the other usual upgrades, cab curtains, cut bar chain, new rod bolts.

Pete

Got a part number for those allen screws? Might come in handy for something.

Lou, the screws are M2.5 x .45 allen flathead stainless. I got mine from McMaster Carr but any industrial supplier should have them. Lionel used 10mm (4), 14mm (2), and 17mm (2) long screws. I got 10mm and 16mm and cut the 16 to get 14mm.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Lou, the screws are M2.5 x .45 allen flathead stainless. I got mine from McMaster Carr but any industrial supplier should have them. Lionel used 10mm (4), 14mm (2), and 17mm (2) long screws. I got 10mm and 16mm and cut the 16 to get 14mm.

Pete

 

Thanks. Are those the same size as MTH Premier side rod screws?

Here is what is currently on my bench getting its decoder tweaked: SS 3rd Rail T3.  It just got a TCS WOW501, 4X Tang Band spkrs, extra weight and warm white LED,s.

@Lou1985 posted:

Thanks. Are those the same size as MTH Premier side rod screws?

I don't know but would bet the thread size is the same as your SF Northern.

Pete

@Norton posted:

I don't know but would bet the thread size is the same as your SF Northern.

Pete

 

Was hoping the thread size is the same. Don't currently need any rod screws but spares are always welcome, especially for future projects.

Great topic!  Good to see the old steamers renewed and upgraded!

This Williams Pacific is getting a TMCC upgrade, cruise, sound, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, coupler, all LED lighting, etc.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

This Williams Pacific is getting a TMCC upgrade, cruise, sound, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, coupler, all LED lighting, etc.

 

Wow,  I just bought 5 Weaver Boston & Maine Pullman Bradley coaches and was looking for something to pull them with.          j

Well, you'll have to negotiate with my customer as this one isn't mine.

I'm working up my gumption to strip one of my MTH Southern PS4s.     Some of the B&M  P class had an Elesco feedwater heater and bear some resemblence to the Southern PS4.     j

Suck it up John, get out the paint remover.

Finally got around to repairing some stuff I've had for a loooooong time. Many years ago I drove a box truck for Goodwill thru the city streets of Madison, WI, to pick up donations on house calls. Much to my pleasure, folks would often donate a box full of Lionel trains! So I loaded them in to the truck, then when back at the plant, I made my way with an armload of trains to the pricing dep't and took home some more goodies!

So that's my way of saying I just unpacked a box with two 2046W tenders, a 234W tender, a 2026, 671, 229 and a 2020 steamer, plus a couple of tank cars that look especially nice. These were the pick o' the crop in this box - got quite a few more boxes that I'm looking forward to going through! I'm in heaven!

Walnut shells, roofing granules, painters tape, spray bottle, scenic grass, ground foam and a gallon of elmers glue. 

Sadly these just hit my workbench. The wife recently decided we needed new dining room furniture. Now there is no hutch/buffet, so these 4 buildings have no place to be displayed anymore. Guess they'll just get boxed and packed away. 

Alex, good to see you posting again, we missed you!  

Rod

A prototype signal board for Atlas.

Lou N

Ran into the first time I couldn't fit my Chuff-Generator on the motor in the standard mounting.  The clearance around the motor in this Williams brass Pacific is just too close to allow it to fit.  Fortunately, last year I was thinking about a situation like this and made a little board that just has the flywheel sensor to make things smaller.  I could fit my mini-sensor board under the driveshaft and just mount the Chuff-Generator remotely.  First time I've had occasion to use the little board, but now I'm glad I thought of it back then.

John, that is just amazing. One thing my late uncle used to say before started some jobs, "Let me think about this one for a bit before I start tearing stuff apart." He would see stuff coming a mile a way most times(unless someone mistakenly did something to mess up what he was going to work on).

Lots of good stuff in here, Alex did up my Niagara a while ago, good to see more of the bits that go into it.

Really like the dimples you're putting in the rods Pete.

Can't wait to more of what's in the works.

Still have the Hamm's brewery from the article on building kits in this months OGR. Don

Lionchief Plus Mikado...smoke unit issues...the fan works, but no smoke, so guessing the heating element is the problem. Think I’ll be ordering a new replacement smoke unit? Anything I should be checking before I do? Ideas are appreciated.

I would take a meter and check to see if the element is getting voltage. 

@UKE KAT posted:

 

Lionchief Plus Mikado...smoke unit issues...the fan works, but no smoke, so guessing the heating element is the problem. Think I’ll be ordering a new replacement smoke unit? Anything I should be checking before I do? Ideas are appreciated.

No need to buy a complete unit. Its either the resistor or the circuit driving the resistor. Do as Rod suggested and check the resistor. Also turn the sound off and see if you can hear the fan running.

Pete

Wife request forced me to clear my workbench of trains and build a pair of walnut bedside tables she asked for last year.  Two hobbies, but only one workbench.  I need to make another workbench eventually.

Continue work on (2) Caboose kits. 

I have several undecorated cars: harriman baggage, 50' cushion underframe boxcars, a tank car, and a wood single sheathed boxcar to paint and letter.  I will not be able to get to any of these projects until November, but here is some of the art work that is still in progress.  

 Sure great to see what everyone is up too and the cleanliness of their work spaces.

  I have made progress on my work bench area and thought I would share my progress.

 Power cords from all the different tools were a constant problem, so I picked up a couple of electrical boxes from Home Depot and built a useful power bar that was compact and out of the way to compliment the new shelf, which will hold a hair dryer, Dremel tool, soldering gun and cordless 3/8” drill.

    I had some 1/2” MDF board in the garage and made a shelf for screwdrivers/power tools  and 2 stands for a drill bits.
   Still lots of parts sorting to do with all the misc bits from projects of the past.

  Hopefully, I will soon get back to my GP7 conversions to Kadees/fixed pilot and started on my recently acquired Atlas GP9 s

Al

 This probably does not deserve to be in this thread as what's going on in my makeshift workspace is just a glorified tire change. But the set of which this unit is part has no fewer than 12 traction tires and getting them all off and on as a practical matter requires removing the body shells:

This is an MTH UP coal turbine 3 unit set (ALCO lead control unit, turbine B unit and tender). In fact this was a conversion of the first conventional Protosound version to PS2, which was done for me by Mike R. and Phil when they were still with TAS. In fact as you might be able to tell from the photo, this conversion put a second sound system in the B unit, which is so much better than the latest and almost certainly last MTH PS3 version that only has sound in the lead unit. I remember it was Phil who suggested installing the extra sound after he took it apart. 

4 motors, 10 powered axles and 3 smoke units call for occasional heavy duty maintenance although this engine, known to my family as "Ol' Smoky" for obvious reasons, is generally only run on ceremonial occasions:

In all the years I have had this, I think I have only had both the powered units apart 3 times and the first of these was right after I got it back from the conversion, when the B unit simply would not start up at all. That turned out to be shipping damage as the front mount of the B unit PS2 board had cracked and the main wiring connector was dislodged. My Heath Robinson repair got it running and it has been reliable ever since.

It does rumble around the track like a giant dinosaur and I have no problem with the fact that the prototype was a failure, largely because trying to burn pulverized coal damaged the turbine. 

(P.S. All evidence of recreational beverages, bottle(s), glassware etc. was removed from the vicinity before the photo was taken!)

You guys are amazing.

3D printed some yard lights

New victim, a TMCC JLC Challenger getting an upgrade.  Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and also the Cruise Commander M.  Of course, a smoke unit tune-up to give it decent smoke is also part of the upgrade. 

Almost done, just have to get the chip LED into the headlight and then solder all the wires to the Super-Chuffer and we're ready to hit the rails.

A few painting/decaling projects...

Tom

Just finished this: 

https://ogrforum.com/...locomotive-from-junk

Going to need a new project at some point, but I'm probably done with stuff till the fall. Weather finally got nice 😀

John, how did the Challenger project work out? All up and running?

Rod

Rod, the challenger is running fine.  The only issue I'm having is an age-old issue of how the smoke comes out the stack.  It's the same old story, the lousy funnel design of these makes most of the smoke come out one stack, or it comes out at an angle.  It's just a lousy design.

I wondered about that when I looked at the funnel in the picture. It's very similar to the Lionmaster Challenger, but without the S shaped lateral displacement segment. It's too bad, the JLC line of engines should really have had a better design. 

Rod

Yep, still mulling over what I can do about it.

My JLC Allegheny does not seem to have this issue, but I have no access to my pictures of the engine at the moment, to see what it's funnel actually looks like.

One solution is a fabricated brass collector-distributor like the one I made recently for the Lionmaster Challenger. It works great, but it is crazy time consuming to make. There is no way you could charge a customer enough to make it worthwhile IMO.

Another option is a 3d printed version like the one Bruk did for an LM Bigboy I think it was. But I dont know if he is prepared to do custom designs for sale to other people. And he would need some key dimensions off the current funnel to do the design.

just some thoughts,

Rod

I like the idea that Bruk had, that stack looked perfect.

GRJ,

How about putting a thread on the forum with video once you finish the JLC TMCC Challenger. Would love to see that SUPER-CHUFFER set to max kicking out the smoke

Erol 

Well, the smoke output is actually dependent on the tuning and/or type of smoke unit.  The Super-Chuffer is controlling the fan and doing some lighting enhancements, but it's not determining the volume of smoke.

Here's an upgrade that is using the MTH smoke unit and the Super-Chuffer.  This is what is possible.

Really nice work SIRT. That bus looks great. I am just a little worried that your passengers might get sunburnt! 

Really like the led lighting effects earlier of the turnpike toll station too. Very nicely done.

Rod

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, the smoke output is actually dependent on the tuning and/or type of smoke unit.  The Super-Chuffer is controlling the fan and doing some lighting enhancements, but it's not determining the volume of smoke.

Here's an upgrade that is using the MTH smoke unit and the Super-Chuffer.  This is what is possible.

Really nice work John - Love that smoke!

Thanks Sean, that's an MTH smoke unit I used for that upgrade.

@SIRT posted:

Fooling with lighting....

Gorgeous!

@Sean007 posted:

Really nice work John - Love that smoke!

Geez, that smoke is awesome. I'd love to have a steamer that smoked like that. 

Hey this is some great work everyone is displaying! 

Currently on the workbench i have a lionel VL Pennsylvania CC2S 6-11154 , in need of major repair. First photos are the Bulher can motor which needs to be replaced. I will keep updating this repair as i make progress. 

Thanks, Alex

That's interesting Alex, those motors and Pittmans are usually really reliable.  I've replaced a bunch of the junky Canon motors in newer Legacy, but only one Pittman and no Bulher motors.  I have a bunch of Pittman motors, could you use one of those for a replacement?

Hi Alex,

I didn’t realize Lionel used Buhler motors; they are well engineered German products. Depending upon the model of motor, average life expectancy can be from 600 to 4000 hours.

Can you tell if this just wore out near it’s expected lifespan or if it was shorted or otherwise mis-used?

Mack

Go with a Pittman Alex. Check the shaft diameter. If its 4mm it should be a fairly easy swap. Lots of 12V and 15V 9334s and 9344s on the bay.

Pete

John and Mack, 

They're very reliable motors, this engine has something funny going on. The DCDS motor driver is shot, and the  Buhler is burnt up inside. It even had parts floating around inside, so i will definitely have to replace it. 

John, thanks for the offer on the Pittman, customer 100 percent wants all original parts, the way it came from the factory.

Once i replace the motor and motor driver, I'm sure something else will be wrong. Seems someone had their hands inside this engine in the past . 

Alex

I see your beverage, Ben (bluelinc4) and raise you something that is German!  Whats on my workbench?  A bunch of RR signs that I removed

( and will reinstall) from my lil' barn so I could powerwash it yesterday in 100 degree heat!

Also....waiting on cooler temps...my dads old cash register that I'll finish renovating. Then some train mucking about type o' repair...

Alex, that does not look good. I ain't ever heard any motor being beat up like that other than my first car. Hopefully all the bits and such will cooperate and behave so you have an easy time.

I don't have one of these engines; I avoided them when they came out mainly because of cost but I vaguely remember that it turned out they were underpowered - irrespective of having a Buhler motor. Can't track down the old threads on this although CC2S definitely rings a bell in the pulling power issues department.  

Have an older weaver rs3 I'm trying to get running without much luck so far. Have to give it 10 volts just to move, runs very rough, and the drive shaft keeps coming off the pittman motor. It appears to have a Dallee board. Anybody have any tips? Would the shell fit on a lionel chassis? I have tried oiling rotating points and use some light grease on the gear tower with no improvement.

Not offered in diecast that I know of, on the bench is a Lehigh & Hudson River R1 4-8-2 ....this was made from a Lionel Mohawk, lots of leftover MTH parts, some scratch built parts, and some PSC parts....Tender WAS a MTH UP tender that was clearly too tall,..so first order of business was to split it length wise, and graft the two halves back together to get the correct tender height...then had to ditch all the Mohawks crosshead and guides in favor of laird cross heads, and better looking valve linkages courtesy of some spare MTH chassis I have laying around,...next a custom smoke box cover with correct lights, and a much better looking headlight/reflector/lens arrangement....and of course, a big ol’ fat Pittman....😁............Pat

Oops ...missed the one of it all together ...here’s the R1 sitting on the rails....this will get a full ERR compliment soon enough...here’s the link to the prototype.....https://www.railarchive.net/randomsteam/lhr10.htm             Pat

@Darrell the nylon that Weaver used in the drivetrains of those locos was not fully "cured," and it tended to shrink over time, usually splitting on the metal shaft.  You may have one or more of the following problems:

(1) The universal joint collar (sometimes called a "helmet") is split, and no longer has a good grip on the motor shaft.

(2) One or both of your chain sprockets is split, so the spacing between the teeth is no longer constant.  The motor is straining to overcome the increased resistance, and this causes the main drive shaft collar to spin on the motor shaft.

(3) One or more of your axle gears is split, which may cause increased or uneven friction down in the truck.  This causes inordinate resistance in the drivetrain, leading to slipping of the motor shaft.

All of the parts for this drivetrain are probably still available from P&D hobby shop.  Even Weaver brought out an improved version of this drivetrain before they were done with it.  The updated version had a flywheel on the motor, and white nylon sprockets that were less prone to cracking.  The flywheel makes a huge difference, and is a really worthwhile upgrade no matter what.  It can be a little tricky to press one on yourself.

Your options are to order a bunch of new parts from P&D, or find a slightly newer Weaver (the black box mk2 version of this drivetrain) as a parts donor.  These remain the best-looking RS3's in 3-rail, and will run very smoothly if you have the patience to tweak them and sort them out.  But they're not durable or great pullers, not a lot of room to add sound, etc.  Since this was made, MTH, Atlas, and Lionel have also offered the Alco RS with speed control, sound, operating couplers, etc.  Unless this loco has a ton of sentimental value, I might just save my money for a newer model.  My $.02.

You guys are way above my pay grade.

I am just removing my Lionel Southern Pacific  AC-12 from its box. 6-38071.  After last years taxes were done, it was an expensive purchase and has sat in its box for over a year. Purchased used with very little run time on it, the first operating session revealed why it had so little run time. It runs like cra... um... poorly - jerking and herking, loping along.

Hope I can figure it out.

Thanks @Ted S, gives me things to check. No chain in this loco, the tower has 3 gears leading to the truck gear. I think I will disconnect the drive shaft to the rear truck and see if that narrows down the problem area.

 Well just found the problem, the drive tower is cracked almost all the way through. So it either binds the gears or makes them not mesh at all depending on which way you are driving them.

@Darrell  wow your original photo wasn't super-clear, I see it now.  If yours has gears instead of a chain then it was either modded by a prior owner, or it's a rare early variant (and not too successful.)

If the gear tower is the only thing that's cracked, you're lucky.  Check out this link: https://www.finescale360.com/p...?variant=43786730894

This aftermarket gear tower should be a "drop in" replacement for your existing one.  The large lower sprocket also increases the gear ratio for excellent slow-speed performance.  I would still add a flywheel.  You can get one from Northwest Short Line (NWSL), from MTH parts, etc.  If you can't find a flywheel with a bored recess that accommodates the U-joint collar, then substitute a dual-shaft motor and put the flywheel on the opposite shaft.  It will work just as well.  You might need to file a little flat spot(s) onto the motor shaft for the set screw to grip.

 EDIT: After looking more closely, I don't think the replacement tower kit includes the upper shaft.  You may or may not be able to fit the upper sprocket on yours in place of the gear.  If it doesn't fit on yours, you'll have to order a new upper shaft from P&D.  You'll have to order some chain from P&D, or directly from the company that makes it, Serv-o-link.  You can also get dual-shaft Pittman motors from P&D.  Good luck!

Thanks for all the links @Ted S ! This is turning out to be some project! The loco was a custom run for the Gadsden Pacific Division toy train museum in Arizona and it did come in a black box. I'm thinking the drive tower was modified at some point to enhance  low speed operation. I have been slowly collecting the yearly museum cars which are mostly lionel custom run ore cars so wanted the matching loco to pull them with.

Work bench cleared off, dropped pool level, all lawn furniture put away and just waiting for our hurricane. Don

Harmonyards, I am totally impressed and speechless!! I knew this level of talent existed but had never seen it before. WOW!!!!

Thanks WinstonB, ....I stumbled across the L&HR looking for a road name to use a for a Decapod I’m putting together....( only to find out they didn’t have any ).........got totally immersed in the L&HR......and had to make an R1 ...figured a Mohawk would be a good candidate for the job....my buddy Lou (Lou1985) looked at the prototype with me, and said it looked like a squashed down big boy tender behind that locomotive....that’s why I had to section that tender shell.....everything else was fairly simple.....I think I wound up taking 11/32” out of the center ....or close to it......Pat

Pat

You are a master craftsman; good to see your recent work.

Just sort of messing around today.

1: Like most of us, my hearing isn't what it used to be: age and been in too many rock n roll bands, I guess. Anyway, I find that the "bell" and "whistle" sounds are at just the right/wrong frequency to be harsh and annoying. I have turned them down as low as I can and still have them work, but it's not pleasant. I wanted to dampen the sound, so I got out some of these:

...just the right size. I simply removed the body, loosened the speaker, tucked one up under said speaker and re-assembled. Still works, but is much more pleasing to these ears. 

2: The very small (I would think S scale) couplers on the front of my TMCC steamers has always troubled me. I just got some Max Gray couplers so I took one and modified it (original on right):

... to more or less match the Lionel (on left):

Before:

After:

Even though it looks large, the Max Gray is (obviously) "correct" O scale. Now to correct my other locos...

Not much I know, but these little projects were fun and easy...and they worked!  

Mark in Oregon

@harmonyards posted:

Oops ...missed the one of it all together ...here’s the R1 sitting on the rails....this will get a full ERR compliment soon enough...here’s the link to the prototype.....https://www.railarchive.net/randomsteam/lhr10.htm             Pat

Wow Pat, and I thought I did something special shoving a smoke unit inside my SS Niagara. Lots of good work here.

I'm still trying to figure out if these two brass looking prods are where I would hook up coil couplers on this Liontech system. I was sent a diagram of a later version of TMCC. this Is like a year before that. this engine is 1995 and the diagram I got matches my 1996 NYC 18563. I do not see 

Okay, I have found B it is next to the blue box. But nothing I can read is beyond that going towards the right. Now the two red wires from the board are front light and rear light. So I'm guessing the two metal posts/pins pointing up that kinda brass color in the middle between the headlights and that blue box. does anybody know for sure. I can't see  d,c,e,f, 

Bill, I'm pretty sure yours has an LCRU in it, the original TMCC board. The newer version LCRU2 has a 6 pin molex connector on the end of the board with the heat sinks, just to make the distinction. The wires to your motor, pickup rollers and ground are all hard-wired to the board. The Front/Rear couplers, the headlight, strobe, and the prog/run switch all connect to the pins as shown below

I think you said yours had a strobe, so it would be this one:

George

@Strummer......thanks Mark, ,....I wasn’t sure what you were up to with the cotton pads....for a second I thought you were going to pack your ears with them!..😆😆😆😆....thanks for the comments!.

@Engineer-Joe.....thanks buddy, ....your work is beautiful too...I’m always in awe of you guys....namely, you, Pete, John, Alex ( who started this thread) Bob2,.. and a whole host of others.......I’m small potatoes...😉

Pat

@GeoPeg posted:

Bill, I'm pretty sure yours has an LCRU in it, the original TMCC board. The newer version LCRU2 has a 6 pin molex connector on the end of the board with the heat sinks, just to make the distinction. The wires to your motor, pickup rollers and ground are all hard-wired to the board. The Front/Rear couplers, the headlight, strobe, and the prog/run switch all connect to the pins as shown below

I think you said yours had a strobe, so it would be this one:

George

thanks once talking to you on phone it confirmed what I thought

@harmonyards posted:

my buddy Lou (Lou1985) looked at the prototype with me, and said it looked like a squashed down big boy tender behind that locomotive....that’s why I had to section that tender shell.....everything else was fairly simple.....I think I wound up taking 11/32” out of the center ....or close to it......Pat

I mean it also helps when someone has a Big Boy tender shell and chassis sitting around to experiment with .  

I just finished my Premier ATSF 2900 class Northern and already have another project. I already have a massive Premier ATSF 5011 class Texas with PS2 3V. 

A friend (where I get my projects from) found an earlier PS2 5V 5011 class that had been around the shop a bit. Banged up from kicking around the MTH parts departments as a donor or warranty return it looked worse for wear, missing all electronics, motor, flywheel, and worm shaft. Friend was able to add a worm, flywheel, and a nice big 9234 roller bearing Pittman motor. Also threw in a ATSF Blue Goose tender chassis, and I sourced a Lionel ATSF 20K gallon tender shell. Ended up with this pile of parts.

Now if you're an ATSF guy you might know where this is going. I already have a 5011 class Texas. I don't like to own duplicate models of the same locomotive (ok except the 3 Premier ATSF 3460 class Hudsons I own) so this Texas needed to be different. I got inspiration from this article: https://oscalekings.org/WP/gar...f-2-10-4-class-5001/

No one has made a ATSF 5001 class Texas in 3 rail O, so I'm going to make my own. I've already sourced the major components and an outside bearing pilot truck. The model is sitting like this now.

I'm going for accuracy, but some things won't be perfect, such is 3 rail. The 5011 class Boxpok drivers will remain as there are no equivalent size 3 rail Baldwin disc drivers like the 5001 class used. There will be other changes to match the prototype. The number boards will be relocated to the sand dome like on a 5001 class. The stack is going to be changed to the proper flip stack. No one makes the correct ATSF hand operated flip stack so my friend Pat, @harmonyards, is going to machine the proper stack out of brass, once I get him the correct measurements. I have to knock the incorrect stack out of the boiler first and take measurements. Locomotive will be numbered 5009 and it'll have PS3, so I can double head it with my 5011 class Texas if I want. It will be one of one when it's done. Only 3 rail 5001 class Texas. 

Just an update on my 1990 Weaver RS3 GPD TTOM locomotive. Bought replacement drive tower from P&D, lower gear kit from Fine Scale, and Cruise commander from 3rd rail. It's a tight fit in there for sure! Anyway, here is the result, drive by at speed step 5 out of 100.

Great job Darrell, glad you got it running.  Very smooth!!

Here’s some of what’s on my bench at the moment 

Wow! You are the man Alex, multitasker extraordinaire! 

Pete

@Norton posted:

Wow! You are the man Alex, multitasker extraordinaire! 

Pete

Thanks Pete ! 

Alex

Alex, that's a WORKBENCH full!  I get confused if I get more than a couple on the bench at the same time.

I’ve found the cure for the common KLine cold.......how about a Conventional Kline scale Hudson, sporting a MTH Premier chassis!?....now the motor is bigger and in the back....where they’re meant to be!,....no more 385 Mubachi in a scale steamer....🤮.....

Pat

Cool, how much work to adapt the boiler to that chassis?

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Cool, how much work to adapt the boiler to that chassis?

Not as awful as one would think,....an evening to figure it all out, half a day to make it all fit....the evening was just to say to myself, “ am I really going to do this??” ....😁

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Not as awful as one would think,....an evening to figure it all out, half a day to make it all fit....the evening was just to say to myself, “ am I really going to do this??” ....😁

Pat

Hmmm ... some would agree with you, others like me are fraught with indecision, brought on by years of making wrong ones, plus a lack of experience in soooo many train repairs/upgrades/modifications which quickly leads to the "make every mistake you can" syndrome. The only redeeming factor is that I do enjoy it so!

Totally awesome that you can keep track of so many projects at once! Given my propensity for losing and mixing parts, I have learned to keep each one of my projects in just-right-sized plastic containers, which I stole from my grandson - he mixes his Legos with his Lincoln Logs, and a plethora of Minecraft figures, etc., so his are all now in a very large tote!

To regain the topic, I just wrapped up a 224 repair, a 261 repair, in the middle of a 671 repair, and have a very clean 2020 running around the test track, needing just minor touch-up! Steamer Days!

             Back on the REA Building again..........

Just wrapped up a TMCC upgrade of this little jewel.  This is the SMR General Haupt, an actual scale model of a General locomotive.  The electronics are in the trailing boxcar, no way it fits in either of these pieces!

As an interesting contrast, here's how much larger the MTH RK General is when compared to a true scale model.  The General locomotives were really small!

Today it was raining too much to haul my table materials to the house, so I decided to give the old 211 Texas Special another shot. I just cleaned the brushes and everything with rubbing alcohol and connected the rebuilt ZW transformer to the track. Either the cleaning or the high power got it going pretty well. Could have been a combination of the two. Once I had it running, I got to work on making a new horn for the top, from scratch. It turned out pretty well for a rush job. I then ran to the auto parts store and grabbed a couple of bulbs and cleaned and rewired the socket. It has a light again! I also added a lens to the front to make it look more like an actual headlight. Now I've got to come up with a plan for fixing that front apron and hope that will brace the front coupler up enough to keep the truck from derailing in reverse. My other project is to add some semi transparent plastic to the windows to hide the "hollow" look.

I also rewired and cleaned one of my two whistle tenders, bringing it back to life, for the second time in a week.

I also added a new headlight lens to my old 1666. 

The last thing I did was add new truck springs to my 2020 Turbine. The front truck was jumping off the track way to often today. The only other thing it needs is a switch to turn the new smoker on and off. It runs you out of the room in just a few minutes as it stands. 

I'm really hoping to get the table materials in the house tommorow and get started putting it together.

To think this journey started back in 2015.... It's taken five years just to get to the point where I can start a layout. I don't know how much more time will pass before I can get scenery on the table. I have some goodies coming, Thanks to Tom, which should give me a good start.

Since the San Diego Model RR Museum is closed until further notice, I have had the opportunity to work on my own engines (instead of the club engines).  My workbench projects for the last few weeks have been:

1) Finished the TMCC ERR upgrade to the MTH Amtrak Genesis PS1 engine with excellent results.

2) Fixed two of my engines that were "jerky" runners by pressing the wheels (with gears) closer together.  Don't know if anyone has had this problem, but somehow the wheels with gears developed too much play and ran erratically.

3) Did some TMCC antenna upgrades on engines that were marginal at the SD3R layout.  I was doing one of these upgrades on a Century Club 2 TM-1 Trainmaster when I noticed two traction tires were gone.  I had to remove the truck in order to replace the tires and it was a PITA to get the wheels back into the right position.

@Roger L. posted:

I was doing one of these upgrades on a Century Club 2 TM-1 Trainmaster when I noticed two traction tires were gone.  I had to remove the truck in order to replace the tires and it was a PITA to get the wheels back into the right position.

That's the Lionel truck design that I detest!  What in the world were they thinking when they did those?

I made some cosmetic changes to this new to me MTH Challenger.  I painted a few parts, darkened the driver rims and handrails, lowered the bell a little, and fixed the fireman’s side eccentric cranks so they’re oriented properly.

@speed3 what did you use to darken the driver rims, and how did you do it?  That's something that really bothers me about pre-2003 MTH.  NOT looking for a full weathering job but if this mod isn't too difficult I would consider it.  Thanks!

@Ted S posted:

@speed3 what did you use to darken the driver rims, and how did you do it?  That's something that really bothers me about pre-2003 MTH.  NOT looking for a full weathering job but if this mod isn't too difficult I would consider it.  Thanks!

I used Abaddon Black acrylic paint from Games Workshop to darken the rims and handrails.  It’s marketed as a “base” layer so you should only need a couple of coats.  I put the engine on its side and powered it with a spare transformer so the wheels could turn while I applied the paint to the rims.  You can use the paint straight from the bottle, but I found that dipping the brush in some water before loading up with paint helped achieve a better consistency.  The rims alone took about 15 minutes to paint.  I feel the same way about shiny rims and handrails on older MTH, so most of my PS1 steam engines get this treatment.  It’s super easy and elevates the overall appearance, in my opinion.

What size brush?  And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)?  Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.

This afternoon there are 3 Southern cabs awaiting end platforms, 2 GM&O xM&O cabs just glued together, 2 M&StL awaiting decals, 1 DT&I and a Mississippi Central model of a home built caboose.  The MS central will have steel casement windows that were used in homes in the 50’s.

@Ted S posted:

What size brush?  And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)?  Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.

I used a size 0 angular flat brush.  The paint is water based, so any that ended up on the treads or wheel faces was wiped off with a damp cotton swab.  Since the paint cleans up so easily, you shouldn’t come close to permanently messing up your locos.

I'm back to working on the 211 Texas Special. I'm trying to make a "frame box" part no. 202-54  (if I remember correctly.) I had been so busy with everything else that I hadn't even noticed it was missing. It would be so much easier to order one than to make one from scratch, but without a credit card or PayPal, you have to work with what you've got.

@Ted S posted:

What size brush?  And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)?  Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.

Another option is gun blue/chemical blackener. Thats what I use. Same technique. Place the engine upside down in a cradle. Attach clip leads and hold a swab next to the rims. Takes about twenty seconds. You can use paint too. Pretty hard the do damage either way. Have some thinner handy if the paint doesn't go where you want.

Pete

 I paint diesel wheels while the unit is running also.  I use a q-tip moistened with lacquer thinner to clean the oils off and a small brush to apply the paint.  Works well.

@Norton posted:

Another option is gun blue/chemical blackener. Thats what I use. Same technique. Place the engine upside down in a cradle. Attach clip leads and hold a swab next to the rims. Takes about twenty seconds. You can use paint too. Pretty hard the do damage either way. Have some thinner handy if the paint doesn't go where you want.

Pete

I’m with Pete on this one....much more permanent to chemically alter the metal than to paint....too many good reliable products on the market today not to take advantage of....in the long run, this is a better end product, permanent, and probably equal to or even cheaper than painting....both of these chassis are PS1 ESE’s with silver painted drivers and chrome tires....yuk!....bottom chassis has the silver paint stripped off with aircraft stripper, then dunked in Caswell Black oxide solution.....simply following their instructions......

Pat

I made a frame box/fuel tank for the 211 Texas Special today. I'm not completely happy with it, but until I can find a used original part (202-54), this one will have to do.

Have the light green done on two LIONEL 15" offset dome cars; next is the dark green for the Lowey livery of the Norther Pacific North Coast Limited.

Snapshot of the two hanging in my drying booth; and, the "shooting gallery." 

Working on 3 different 675 Lionel locomotives I picked up last year for next to nothing at our TTOS Southern Pacific Division meet auction. One tender whistle was not working and got that going. All 3 675 engines are not smoking so that is next. Broken trailing truck and missing smoke unit installed but not yet wired. I have some details and trim parts to finish. I need to find a stamp to re number one of them since someone removed the cab numbers previously. They will not be perfect but they will be great runners.

Fried the motor in this guy last Friday at the club...

It had been running for a while, and at some point I realized it had been too long since it had gone around... found it barely crawling along, and it was pretty hot... was hoping it would be fine after it cooled off, but nope... you can see the windings on one pole are black... Atlas’ website says they actually have the motor in stock for this!

Working on a damaged TMCC crane 

                                                           SBD  16384

                                       They won't make one so I'll have to.

                           MTH offers an SCL MP-15 and no caboose to go with it  

@Alex M posted:

Working on a damaged TMCC crane 

 

I had to go pour myself a drink after seeing that video Alex LOL! Good luck with the repair.

I'd like to see a video of your success when its complete.

@Alex M posted:

Working on a damaged TMCC crane 

 

Alex, it's quite possible you can simply pull the pins from the one crane mechanism and put them in the shells for the other.  They look to be both JST-EH connector types.  The gears, OTOH, look like you'll have to restring those.

@Alex M posted:

Working on a damaged TMCC crane 

Best o' luck! Looks like you'll be doing that for a while!

George

@Alex M posted:

Hello all, 

Haven’t posted in a while , just wanted to say hello and figured I’d show you what’s currently being worked on. 

LET'S SEE WHAT'S ON YOUR'S !

Thanks, Alex 

Too funny, I saw this post and the video and knew it was a CC II Niagara.

I have two to do on my workbench as well.

What do you use to trim the new drive shafts?

@evanchsa posted:

Too funny, I saw this post and the video and knew it was a CC II Niagara.

 

I have two to do on my workbench as well.

What do you use to trim the new drive shafts?

I use to file them down with a 6 inch sanding wheel. Now I send a bunch of them to Pete (Norton) and he cuts them down to size with his Metal lathe. 

Alex

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Alex, it's quite possible you can simply pull the pins from the one crane mechanism and put them in the shells for the other.  They look to be both JST-EH connector types.  The gears, OTOH, look like you'll have to restring those.

Exactly what I did , still a lot of work lol 

No doubt it was a lot of work Alex!  I had to restring one of those, that's all it took for me to avoid them!

@Alex M posted:

I use to file them down with a 6 inch sanding wheel. Now I send a bunch of them to Pete (Norton) and he cuts them down to size with his Metal lathe. 

Alex

 

Good to know I wasn't the only one filing them down by hand.

My lathe may arrive before I do the other Niagara.

This post inspired me to fix the one sitting on my workbench last night.

It was much easier than I thought; the second will be a breeze.

The gears were really chewed up:

I used the brass gears from Lionel but I also have the delrin gears from NWSL.

@RickO posted:

I had to go pour myself a drink after seeing that video Alex LOL! Good luck with the repair.

I'd like to see a video of your success when its complete.

Hi Rick

its actually complete , I’ll post a video later on 

Alex 

I didn’t like the universal joint coupling system in those CC Niagara’s for one second....this locomotive is just such a **** poorly engineered toilet, I took a whole different approach, I divorced the motor from the gear box altogether, then modded the gear box to be self standing with a floating spring design, this way, I could use a dog bone and coupler set up....took all the stress out of the driveline, and allowed the gearbox to float around and do it’s thing....this is just my solution, Alex & Pete have their own fixes as well.....Pat

I have 2 projects in process. The first is my scratch-built, free-lanced Union station.

The second is my custom painted and decaled Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines coaches for 0-31 curves.

Both projects are on temporary hold while I care for my elderly uncle, a train enthusiast also, who is preparing for his 3rd major cancer removal surgery in two years to take place this coming Thursday.

@Randy Harrison posted:

I have 2 projects in process. The first is my scratch-built, free-lanced Union station.

The second is my custom painted and decaled Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines coaches for 0-31 curves.

Both projects are on temporary hold while I care for my elderly uncle, a train enthusiast also, who is preparing for his 3rd major cancer removal surgery in two years to take place this coming Thursday.

Very nice, Randy, particularly your Union Station.

@Arnold D. Cribari

Arnold: Thanks for the kind words. If you are interested in a step-by-step progress report, click on https://ogrforum.com/...ess-update-1-29-2020  I have not had time to work on it lately due to my family obligations, but, it is still an active project.

Hi Rick 

Here’s the video of the crane in action. Had to cut the sound out , because I mentioned the customers name. Figured he would want to remain Anonymous. 

@harmonyards posted:

I didn’t like the universal joint coupling system in those CC Niagara’s for one second....this locomotive is just such a **** poorly engineered toilet, I took a whole different approach, I divorced the motor from the gear box altogether, then modded the gear box to be self standing with a floating spring design, this way, I could use a dog bone and coupler set up....took all the stress out of the driveline, and allowed the gearbox to float around and do it’s thing....this is just my solution, Alex & Pete have their own fixes as well.....Pat

I knew that Niagara was going to the right guy!

@harmonyards posted:

I didn’t like the universal joint coupling system in those CC Niagara’s for one second....this locomotive is just such a **** poorly engineered toilet, I took a whole different approach, I divorced the motor from the gear box altogether, then modded the gear box to be self standing with a floating spring design, this way, I could use a dog bone and coupler set up....took all the stress out of the driveline, and allowed the gearbox to float around and do it’s thing....this is just my solution, Alex & Pete have their own fixes as well.....Pat

Just swap a MTH Niagara chassis under it and be done. You know that's the best option. It's a better chassis from the start. I think you can do it .

@Alex M posted:

Hi Rick 

Here’s the video of the crane in action. Had to cut the sound out , because I mentioned the customers name. Figured he would want to remain Anonymous. 

Nice work Alex! And fast to boot! That crane looks and operates like it just came out of the box.

@Steaming Jon posted:

Fried the motor in this guy last Friday at the club...

It had been running for a while, and at some point I realized it had been too long since it had gone around... found it barely crawling along, and it was pretty hot... was hoping it would be fine after it cooled off, but nope... you can see the windings on one pole are black... Atlas’ website says they actually have the motor in stock for this!

Got this one back on the rails! Hardest part was swapping the worm gear on to the new motor...

@Steaming Jon posted:

Got this one back on the rails! Hardest part was swapping the worm gear on to the new motor...

How’d you do it??.....please share!..

Pat

In the first part of this video is a Lionel 6-18071 S.P. Daylight. It is my first and only Timko motor conversion. It along with ERR Cruise Commander runs like a dream. On my workbench in the end of the video is a Lionel 6-18045 Commodore Vanderbilt. I sent off the motor to Timko and now awaiting for another ERR Cruise Commander to arrive. 

@harmonyards posted:

How’d you do it??.....please share!..

Pat

Ok, let’s see if I can put it into words... motor removal requires removing the boiler shell from the chassis, then removing the lower cover from the frame followed by removing the drivers. The motor bracket is then unscrewed from the frame (the screws are behind the rear drivers). The motor then unscrews from the bracket, and the hole is big enough that the worm gear fits thru...

The worm gear is very securely pressed on to the motor shaft. There’s probably an appropriate puller, but I don’t have one... I used some pliers, a hammer, and a tiny screwdriver to drive the shaft out of the gear. Not pretty, but it worked... I used a c-clamp to press the gear onto the new motor. I made extra sure the other end of the c-clamp was only touching the other end of the motor shaft to avoid damage, and I carefully pressed the gear on a tiny bit at a time...

Reassembly is basically the reverse of disassembly. I found it easier to remove the side rods before reinstalling the drivers because it’s a bit fiddly to get the drivers in sync with each other due to the idler gear between the drivers...

Hope that helps!

Currently on the workbench 

of course all wiring will be trimmed to proper size , soldered, heat shrink , and wire tied 

I haven't even started on that ATSF Texas project and picked this up, a Premier UP FEF. My first non ATSF or SP locomotive, but it's a western road so it's ok. Little paint work, a PS3 kit, and a motor and it should be a runner. So now I've got 2 locomotives to work on when the weather cools off. That should keep me busy/out of trouble.

Finished the last K-Line ALCO FA AA upgrade.  MOPAC Eagle AA.  Added two power trucks to the trailing A with a tether to the leading A.  Now four powered trucks for the pull.  And a Williams ALCO soundboard.  I'll post pics tomorrow.

                                Off the bench and onto the next building...