WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@ArtsModelTrains posted:

Cleaning my post war NY Central F3. Purchased this engine used and this is the third time I have taken it apart to clean it and I'm still pulling the original grease / gunk out of the gears.

Keep up the good work Jet.

( ..........third time SHOULD be the charm )

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Keep up the good work Jet.

( ..........third time SHOULD be the charm )

Thanks, think this time I got it all! The engine is running the best it has since I got it.

Looking to add a light to my MPC Santa Fe GP9 #8255. What's the best way?

1) Swap out the truck for the 8130-15 collector truck.

2) Can I add a p/u roller to the existing truck?

3) Best socket bulb choice. Think I like the clip on one wire style with the push in bulb.

4) Maybe LED?

My Santa Fe GP9 dummy never had a light so I added one. 8030-15 P/U roller/8030-13 light socket/#161 Light bulb. Looks nicer. My GP20 is next for a light.

So I’m playing around with leds some more, here’s another GRJ designed pcb.  He uses it for ground lights.  But it surely has many more uses in any number of applications you can think of(buildings, backyard lighting, out buildings, etc.).  The pcb(6 per board)is from OshPark at $2.30 for batch of three, shipped(12 cents each).  Way cheaper from off shore sources.  I bought the 3528 smt led from the bay at $8 for a hundred.  So I have 20 cents in each light.  They run off 3-5vdc(however you get there is up to you).  A resistor from around 220ohms to around 1k can dim them out a for a variety of lighting applications to suit your taste.  One tip, I put a tiny drop of glue on the pcb, place the led, then after it’s dry, solder them.  Stops me from pushing them around when I try to solder. Try em’ out if you have a need.  Click for larger image.

My F3 upgrade marches on......the marker lights are installed.

I covered the back of the number boards after these pix were taken to kill the spill over.

Bob

I had some time to spend in the Train Room this morning so I decided to rebuild the motor in my Marx M10000 streamliner. It's been sitting on this shelf since it smoked up and broke down at the beginning of the winter.

With about 4 hex nuts and 2 machine screws (plus some encouragement with a wheel puller), the entire motor assembly came apart. It's very similar to some of the other prewar Marx motors I have worked on.

My M10000 set has an early manual reverse unit rather than the more typical 2-position E-unit. The ancient wires were crumbling and were in desperate need of replacement. I took this photo so I could remember what went where befoe cutting off the old wires.

I soaked all of the parts in my favorite general purpose metal cleaner, WD40, and spent an hour scrubbing off 85 years worth of grime and surface rust off of everything.

I rewired the locomotive with heavier-gauge modern wire.

I put the electrical components back together and tested the armature on the bench to make sure I had wired it correctly. The last step was to polish the wheels on my bench grinder and press them back on with my table vise.

Here's the rebuilt motor, freshly lubed with light machine oil and ready to go back into the locomotive shell.

The set runs a whole lot better now, check it out on my Marx / prewar Flyer table!

                                                     In progress...

Mass assembling baggage cart kits for my current under construction diorama

Sorry for not having Pic;s  But for the last couple of weeks ,  Its been Flat cars , 2 AllNation cast aluminum , 2 LaBelle Stick built) a Walthers refurbish (From the late 1930's early 40's) and a very unique  Scratch build That hade scale details in a set of  late 1930's lionel tinplate trucks, (I have about 10 reefers and box cars done the same way)

                                                          Done 

@SIRT posted:

Just curious, do you define this as light, medium, or heavy weathering?  As usual, exquisite work.  

This would be considered I.M.O. heavy, as in later or last days of 80's service. Rust and color paint fading go together.

Good question, thanks!

@SIRT posted:

                                                          Done

Sharp!

Recently I acquired my 2nd 682 w/ 2946w-50 Pennsylvania tender. Needed the usual maintenance, repairs and oiler gear arms.

First three pix are what it looked like prior to working on it, 2nd two pix are final product. Runs excellent, like new.

Have a Santa Fe F3 from 1948 bought as junk and needed a good home once again the famous x is on the shells I have one other 2333 with the X on both powered and dummy units, I also have a pw Wabash  2240 AB unit no X along with a PW 2344 NYC ABA no X on either powered or dummy. Have some Greenburgh's Lionel books and nobody can figure out what the X is for Anyone have a PW Lionel F unit with the X other than Santa Fe. Thanks

I have been in the hunt for over 16 years for a K-Line Colfax Tank car. I just found a American Flyer one and snagged it up. I removed the trucks from an old Lionel car and snapped them right on the American Flyer one. Perfect transition.

                                         Collection in progress.............

Working with solder paste:
I’ve been playing around with small flickering led boards designed by GRJ.  Hand soldering 0805 smt resistors on these boards is not easy.  An alternative would be using solder paste for mounting the resistors.  Having no experience what so ever, I promptly ordered some from Amazon.  A 15 gram syringe was around $15 shipped(wife’s Prime account).

Comes with directions and a couple of tips for dispensing. I couldn’t get the plunger to clip into the barrel, and some of the paste eeked out around the seal.🤷‍♂️ No matter, forged ahead. The stuff comes out of the syringe in little globs making it fiddly to place on the pcb pads. But there again just go with it.

Placing the resistors on the paste was much easier.

Put the boards on a piece of 3/8” plywood for heating.  Then came applying heat with a pretty cheap heat gun.  Took about 20 seconds at about an inch+ away moving around the board for the solder to turn silver.  After cooling all seems well, and I think a neater looking end result.  The electronic experts may opine on the length of the heat effect on the resistors.  I simply don’t know if they are impacted or not.

Over all, solder paste does a neater job but is kinda messy to start with. Experience might make the process easier and neater. My research revealed the paste has a shelf life of 6-12 months, the syringe I bought being a lifetime supply. So I’m sure some will be wasted. YMMV… Give it a whirl if you aren’t sure soldering with an iron is the best method.

A little experiment with a glob of paste, much bigger than needed to solder the resistors, placed on a strip of brass with an instant read thermometer.  It takes more time for the blob to flash to silver; thirty seconds instead of ~20 for the pcb.  The temperature is around 437 degrees F.  Not very scientific, but is an example of what to expect.

TedW thank you for the description of your first use of the soldering paste.  Yes, I would have trouble soldering those tiny resistors with a soldering iron for sure.

Steve, it appears as if there is texture to the rust above the heart as there would be with such advanced rusting on the prototype.  Is that just the excellent blending of colors to obtain the rust or do you add something to give it actual texture?

@TedW, thanks for taking the time to photograph, write, edit, and post this information -- it was all NEW info for me.

Ha! Last to-do item for the mass baggage cart build is checked off!!  Done! ....Oh, wait, ....still have to paint them, ....right....rats....

@Robert S. Butler posted:

Ha! Last to-do item for the mass baggage cart build is checked off!!  Done! ....Oh, wait, ....still have to paint them, ....right....rats....

LOL They look great already

@coach joe posted:

Steve, it appears as if there is texture to the rust above the heart as there would be with such advanced rusting on the prototype.  Is that just the excellent blending of colors to obtain the rust or do you add something to give it actual texture?

Texture depends on how much paint is applied. Using 4 basic colors gives you the look and texture. 7 colors is needed for freight car roofs.

Here’s one just about to leave the workbench at last!

I had this old K-Line Pennsylvania L2S Mikado for years that I bought off a fellow forum member for a low price, and I finally upgraded its insides:
- New LED headlight
- Fan smoke w/ John’s Super Chuffer board
- 4 chuffs per wheel revolution with a 3D printed cam by Sid’s Trains
- 100 speed steps w/ ERR Cruise control
- Replaced the generic audio board with a Lionel RailSounds 5 board with the correct road name and number specific CrewTalk

Needs a bit more TLC here and there, plus a dash of weathering, but the insides are fully finished and up to date for my usage.

                                                                 Done -

1. Beautiful 392E, needs drive wheel replacement.

Some Arcade and Attica Boxcars, soon to be decaled…

Tom

The mass baggage cart construction project is finished! - They are painted and loaded...next stop the Oblivion Station platform!

Finally solved my LED marker light problem on my F3 upgrade. Now I have to take the wiring apart and replace the LED's.

I was using common anode led's. Needed common cathode instead.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Finally solved my LED marker light problem on my F3 upgrade. Now I have to take the wiring apart and replace the LED's.

I was using common anode led's. Needed common cathode instead.

Bob

It's always something!

I'm glad you found the problem

@RSJB18 posted:

Finally solved my LED marker light problem on my F3 upgrade. Now I have to take the wiring apart and replace the LED's.

Bob

🎵Ain't no mountain high enough 🎶

@Dallas Joseph posted:

🎵Ain't no mountain high enough 🎶

Seems I just heard that song on this station not so long ago. 

@Dallas Joseph posted:

🎵Ain't no mountain high enough 🎶

@Mark Boyce posted:

Seems I just heard that song on this station not so long ago. 

😎😎😎😎

@RSJB18 posted:

Finally solved my LED marker light problem on my F3 upgrade. Now I have to take the wiring apart and replace the LED's.

I was using common anode led's. Needed common cathode instead.

Bob

Test video added.

You could ask, “what did you manage to get off the workbench?”

There is still much to do on the two observation cars.  A major fix on the Frisco obs was to get rid of the full diaphagm.  The major fix for the FW&D obs was to blank out windows on the forward left side where a galley was located.  Still need to shorten the rooftop antenna and apply vents over the galley.  Maybe in September I can work on it some more.

Just finished making this McKeen passenger trailer for the Virginia and Truckee.

As with many of my creations, everything is 3D printed in sturdy ABS plastic except the wheels and axles.

That includes the trucks and couplers by the way!

Still some refinements to be made (need to add some weights to the inside and repaint the rooflines so they match better), but the opening doors work alright.

@Trainguy Ken posted:

Just finished making this McKeen passenger trailer for the Virginia and Truckee.

As with many of my creations, everything is 3D printed in sturdy ABS plastic except the wheels and axles.

That includes the trucks and couplers by the way!

Still some refinements to be made (need to add some weights to the inside and repaint the rooflines so they match better), but the opening doors work alright.

Interesting, I have STD Gauge, a O Gauge McKeen and today I got an H0 kit in the mail.

Steve

@coach joe posted:

I've got a lot of projects in the works but no real work bench to work on.  Here are a few that have been dragging on.  Hopefully I'll get them done this year.

First up is an LIRR BEEP that I want to convert to USAF.  I picked up two of these LIRR BEEPs when they were being cleared out.  The idea was to repaint one of them and dress it up in USAF decals.  Never had the heart to do the repaint so I started looking for donor shells.  I bought a NOS Conrail one, thinking I could remove the lettering and decal it.  Then along came this Kusan/Williams BEEP shell with PRR keystone stickers  under the windows and white Pennsylvania above the fuel fill.  Stickers peeled off and Mr. Clean Magic Eraser made short work of the lettering.  The only issue is the handrails.  I would love to use the metal RMT handrails instead of the plastic K/W handrails but Kusan/Williams has round holes and the RMT handrails have rectangular tabs.  I need to figure that out before adding the decals.

Now I'm the rare bird that actually likes the GN Big Sky Blue paint scheme.  I've got a MPC U36B and could never find any of the MTH engines that wear the BSB.  I could never ring myself to splurge on any of the Lionel U33Cs.  I found one of the U36B shells and fitted it on a Williams GP9.  I had to alter the handrails but that's another story.  I came across this GP7 shell.  Found pictures of a prototype so I'm going to add the rooftop air tanks and the winterization hatch.  I've got the decals and three possible donors for the chassis.  Once I figure out which chassis I have to make a placard to attach to the hand rails for the road name.

Another BSB project.  GN did have electrical operations.  While they never had anything remotely close to the E60 I intend to dress this guy in a Fantasy Great Northern Big Sky Blue paint scheme.  I've already peeled the red, white and blue stripe off.  The repaint will be ambitious for me but I'm going to give it a shot.  The Williams pantographs are a little sad but not in as bad shape as I remembered them to be.  I would like to change them but finding these guys is impossible.  I have one Atlas AEM 7 pantograph and would love to find another for this project.

Okay so it's time to tackle the BEEP shell.  I wanted to use the new metal handrails instead of the plastic, especially the one broken end rail.  As stated above the stanchions are flat, not round like the holes in the shell.  I was thinking of trying to bend the flat tabs so they would fit into the round holes instead of elongating the holes to accept the rectangular tab.  The ends of the handrails enter the last holes for each rail to lock the rails in place, however the diameter of the metal handrail is smaller than the plastic therefore it pops right out.  I don't want to damage the stanchions only to have the project fail because the ends will not stay in place.  Any ideas for a solution?

I need some curtains to block that l e d alongside a huge black screw.

Here’s a UP FEF lower frame chassis being changed

Fun isn't it Alex!   I've swapped a few K-4 frames when the gearbox gave up the ghost, and the MTH Big Boy, such fun.

@coach joe posted:

Okay so it's time to tackle the BEEP shell.  I wanted to use the new metal handrails instead of the plastic, especially the one broken end rail.  As stated above the stanchions are flat, not round like the holes in the shell.  I was thinking of trying to bend the flat tabs so they would fit into the round holes instead of elongating the holes to accept the rectangular tab.  The ends of the handrails enter the last holes for each rail to lock the rails in place, however the diameter of the metal handrail is smaller than the plastic therefore it pops right out.  I don't want to damage the stanchions only to have the project fail because the ends will not stay in place.  Any ideas for a solution?

Joe- How about if you grind the tabs down until they fit the round holes and then glue the stanchions in place? No need to remove them ever again since the shell snaps on and off the chassis.

Bob

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Fun isn't it Alex!   I've swapped a few K-4 frames when the gearbox gave up the ghost, and the MTH Big Boy, such fun.

Oh It's a blast LOL

Alex

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Fun isn't it Alex!   I've swapped a few K-4 frames when the gearbox gave up the ghost, and the MTH Big Boy, such fun.

@Alex M posted:

Oh It's a blast LOL

Alex

Pfft. Chassis swaps are easy .

https://ogrforum.com/...c/149802439048045802

I'm starting to work on another item I picked up from that NYE Cabin Fever MTH warehouse auction. I pad $65 for this GS4 locomotive and tender shell.

I've picked up a bunch of Premier GS class parts on the cheap in the past couple of years. A little bit of rummaging in my parts box last night and I came up with this.

The locomotive is a Frankenstein combination of PS1/PS2/PS3 parts powered by a rare Earth magnet 9243 Pittman with 6mm ball bearings. I'm just going to blacken the driver tires and axle centers and call it good. I've got to assemble the tender still but all the components are in my parts box. Plan is to use one of the PS3 steam kits I have on the electronics side, but I probably won't get around to that till the weather gets cooler in the fall.

Bob, bending or grinding the tabs so they fit in the round hole is an option, as is gluing the end of the rail it the last hole.  I was just wondering if there were any otheroptins before I go down the permanant disfigurement road.

You guys always do great repairs and work that I definitely can't do. You would hear, "Snap!" followed by a sailor's vocabulary. I would be messaging someone minutes after asking, "Um, could you fix my boo-boo?"

Hello all,

Currently on my workbench is a Korber roundhouse I was asked to build. This is just the beginning.

Alex do you still build Korber models for Korber to sell assembled, or is this for an individual?  I'm assuming that façade is 3 pieces glued together, therefore all the weights and clamps to prevent warping as the glue dries?

I won two auctions for these Weaver hoppers so adding weight to these has pushed the BEEP off the workbench (snack table) for the time being.

@coach joe posted:

Alex do you still build Korber models for Korber to sell assembled, or is this for an individual?  I'm assuming that façade is 3 pieces glued together, therefore all the weights and clamps to prevent warping as the glue dries?

Hi Joe, this is a individual model build for someone.  The clamps and steel flat stock are used to keep things flat and tight until everything dries

Thanks, Alex

Working on the K-Line A-5, it's getting the full upgrade, TMCC, ERR Cruise, ERR RS Command, fan driven smoke, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  The fit in there is tight, no room for the Chuff-Generator, so I had to use a little sensor extender on the bottom of the motor where there's a little space.  With that in place, I can remote the Chuff-Generator and just shrink-wrap it.

It's currently holding for some connectors to come in to build a tether for it.

A quick project this week. Repainted/relettered a Lionel Atlantic Coast Line observation car to the SP/RI Golden State scheme.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Working on the K-Line A-5, it's getting the full upgrade, TMCC, ERR Cruise, ERR RS Command, fan driven smoke, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  The fit in there is tight, no room for the Chuff-Generator, so I had to use a little sensor extender on the bottom of the motor where there's a little space.  With that in place, I can remote the Chuff-Generator and just shrink-wrap it.

It's currently holding for some connectors to come in to build a tether for it.

I have the same engine John. I'll be taking notes....

@RSJB18 posted:

I have the same engine John. I'll be taking notes....

This one started life as a conventional model, so I had to do stuff like swap out the couplers, and I have to come up with a better tether, the conventional models only have a 4-pin tether, two pin positions are blank.  I just got in some matching 6-pin connectors to the locomotive tether connector as the K-Line 6-pin tethers are very scarce.  I'm also using one of my remaining Cruise Commander Lite boards.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

This one started life as a conventional model, so I had to do stuff like swap out the couplers, and I have to come up with a better tether, the conventional models only have a 4-pin tether, two pin positions are blank.  I just got in some matching 6-pin connectors to the locomotive tether connector as the K-Line 6-pin tethers are very scarce.  I'm also using one of my remaining Cruise Commander Lite boards.

Mine's a conventional model too. I've got several diesels up next for upgrades, and I just bought a pair of MTH S2's from the last Cabin Fever auction (a powered chassis and a dummy) that I want to do also.

And MAYBE I can get the F3's off the bench soon.

Bob

I'd do the diesels first and get used to the upgrades, the full up steam upgrades get a little more complicated at times.

Took a couple of my post war 3474 WP shells to the sink to rid them of 50 years of collected gunk ( well maybe 5 years of gunk and 45 years of accumulated storage ) . Now in the cold light of day, I can tell their earlier years of active play now need a little bit of silver you have up. Anybody know a close match to the Lionel Silver? Product name and color number would be appreciated.
rich

Little upgrade the two Virginian and C&O K-Line Allegheny engines I picked up at York.  Both now have Cruise M boards and repacked the smoke units.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'd do the diesels first and get used to the upgrades, the full up steam upgrades get a little more complicated at times.

I can imagine that they do. Especially in a small frame and tender shell. I thought I had all the room in the world inside the F3 shell...boy was I wrong.....

@jstraw124, I believe I have the same workbench from Harbor Freight.  I covered the holes with small pieces of masking tape when I grew frustrated with small parts finding their way into them and often disappearing.

I'd certainly have to fill those holes, that would drive me nuts!

The holes are why I own this bench.  It’s actually made in Sweden.  Primary use of my bench is for woodworking and the holes really help when clamping boards for my hand tools.  This is a pic of the other end of the bench with cherry pieces ready for finish and assembly into a arts and craft style book cabinet.

I have a similar workbench with holes, but it's in the woodworking shop and not used for working on stuff with tiny parts.

My table for working on trains is currently buried under a bunch of trains.  Result of in progress of  building a layout.  

Installed a side frame to a Lionel GP9 I picked up on the cheap, because it was missing the side frame.  Ordered one that Trainz had as part of a bigger order, but did not look close enough.  Pic 1 is the power truck sideframe, and that is what I got.  It has more metal that extends up and over the edges of the motor plate.  I had to cut out a bit of metal, Pic 2  to make it look and fit like the non-power truck, drilled and tapped it for 6-32X 1/4 screws.  Once the metal is removed, it is very easy to place the truck on the frame using the other side as a reference to position and mark for the screw holes.  The side frame metal is quite hard, I would have thought the drill needed for tapping the 6-32 hole would go through like butter, but it did not.  Had to drill a pilot hole first.  Tap went in no problem, Pic 2a. A bit of Sharpie black added to help hide the cut area and screws, but I need to do a bit better on that with some paint Pic 3.  None of this is visible so was not too concerned.   Pic 4 is the truck installed, and looks just like the original on the other side.   Pic 5 is the coupler spring and new retaining washer which was missing on the truck.  One of the best deals around is the Harbor Freight 'Box-O-Springs' for about 5 bucks.  All kinds in there, and one fit this situation with just a trim with wire cutters.  you will be amazed how many times you will go to that box of springs to fix something, not realizing how many things with springs you have in your life.

Sometimes, a break from the loco (muy loco, at times) project is needed. I had some late 50's A-N aluminum kits. Those "Tin Plate" trucks and couplers were great. Too bad Progress goes the wrong way, so, so often. Except for the brake details underneath, there is not one bit of plastic in this car.

Nice D!….I despise being T/A’ed to the car shops,….I’d rather be beaten with that flat car!..

Pat

My K-Line A-5 is off the workbench!  It's alive!

It got the works, fan driven smoke, TMCC cruise, RailSounds, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  For the astute observers, you'll note that it has two chuffs/rev, that was deliberate.  I want to triple head it with my other two that don't have the Chuff-Generator, so they only have two chuffs/rev.  Until they get upgraded, I figured I could just run this so it matches, I can reprogram it anytime for 4-chuffs.

                                                                #2251 BAR

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

My K-Line A-5 is off the workbench!  It's alive!

It got the works, fan driven smoke, TMCC cruise, RailSounds, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  For the astute observers, you'll note that it has two chuffs/rev, that was deliberate.  I want to triple head it with my other two that don't have the Chuff-Generator, so they only have two chuffs/rev.  Until they get upgraded, I figured I could just run this so it matches, I can reprogram it anytime for 4-chuffs.

Runs great John. You made quick work of that upgrade. I need to find time to get to my bench......

Actually just off the bench. I like how this turned out. Typical of early H0 Bachmann, it was super glossy. Took it apart and gave it a coat of flat. It was also supposed to be a 2-8-0 but my guess is it kept derailing so the pilot truck was removed. Runs and smokes decent for an oldie.

Steve

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

My K-Line A-5 is off the workbench!  It's alive!

It got the works, fan driven smoke, TMCC cruise, RailSounds, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  For the astute observers, you'll note that it has two chuffs/rev, that was deliberate.  I want to triple head it with my other two that don't have the Chuff-Generator, so they only have two chuffs/rev.  Until they get upgraded, I figured I could just run this so it matches, I can reprogram it anytime for 4-chuffs.

Cool John !!!

I thought my walls were saturated with train shelves, but I needed just a little more near my display of 26 postwar 6464's, I outgrew it with my last two purchases. I found a little space next to it - enough for a mini-display that can hold four 6464's.

On my workbench this morning was this mini-display case/shelving unit:

I finished it as the day went on - here it is on the wall:

My train room' walls, as well as under the layout (like skirting) are covered with display shelving all made the same way. 4 inch furring strip wood sanded and stained an oak color. This new unit cost me less than $3.00.

Here are a couple other pics of this inexpensive shelving:

@Lionelski posted:

I thought my walls were saturated with train shelves, but I needed just a little more near my display of 26 postwar 6464's, I outgrew it with my last two purchases. I found a little space next to it - enough for a mini-display that can hold four 6464's.

On my workbench this morning was this mini-display case/shelving unit:

I finished it as the day went on - here it is on the wall:

My train room' walls, as well as under the layout (like skirting) are covered with display shelving all made the same way. 4 inch furring strip wood sanded and stained an oak color. This new unit cost me less than $3.00.

Here are a couple other pics of this inexpensive shelving:

Looks like you had room for one more shelf (one more 6464) on the bottom John.

@coach joe posted:

Looks like you had room for one more shelf (one more 6464) on the bottom John.

LOL Coach Joe

Yea, I really only needed space for 2 recent purchases, but bult the four 6464 one to allow for future purchases!

Still need 6464-325 B&O Sentinel but not for the $600 plus price I see them going for.

I'll be patient and, sooner or later, I'll get one at a super bargain like the rest of mine. I refuse to pay more than $250 for a stupid boxcar!

I'm 2 railing/ repainting / patching an MTH RK American Diesel Electric Crane and Premier flat car for my RR Construction Co.  I still need to build a boom rest and other accessories for the flat car.  The flat car doghouse was made with a laser engraver using chip board.

My kit bashed beep got a mini commander and a sound commander 2 upgrade this week.

@Darrell posted:

My kit bashed beep got a mini commander and a sound commander 2 upgrade this week.

Another electronic engineer major at work.

Nice Darrell .

@Darrell posted:

My kit bashed beep got a mini commander and a sound commander 2 upgrade this week.

Looks familiar. I did my first one recently. Nice work.

Bob

Like this thread so much. I'm contemplating kitbashing a failed k-line bash into a scale dimensioned prr B70a baggage car. So far I have (1) dismanteled the first kitbash, (2) sketched the dimensions of the B70a based on prr equipment diagrams and measuring dimensions of a ggd prr B70, (3) relocated the truck mounting holes on the first k-line baggage bash car frame to account for a scale length car and (4) started work on a scratch wood round roof. If I can get close to an excetable looking roof, I will continue with the project. I plan to the use one of the k-line baggage car ends and scratch build the unique large tall door for the other end and scratch build all of the side doors.  I wish I could find a good scale model with the unique design elelments, but they are rare and expensive. Norm C  with many talents has a great youtube of his acquisition. Cheers.

Finished the wiring in my F3 dummy shell last night. I'm in the home stretch on this project finally. Just need to install the harness between the two engines and test it out.

Bob

FWIW, I typically test the lighting at this stage just connecting to individual wires.  I hate to get something all together and find out I have to rip it all apart again.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

FWIW, I typically test the lighting at this stage just connecting to individual wires.  I hate to get something all together and find out I have to rip it all apart again.

Were you looking over my shoulder last night John?

I tested everything before installing them in the shell. Wouldn't you know that when I tested everything again, the headlight didn't work. So now I have to figure out what happened.

@RSJB18 posted:

Wouldn't you know that when I tested everything again, the headlight didn't work. So now I have to figure out what happened.

Yep, that happens sometimes as well.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Yep, that happens sometimes as well.

It's my own fault. The LED's came out of an old set of xmas lights. Not worth the time and effort to use old stuff. 😡

Here's a CV Hudson I've been working on and off on. Swapped out the Pulmore for a Pittman, added a cruise commander and Gunrunner Johns chuff stuff.

Doug

Doug.....Is the green Seat and switch insert original to your CV or something you sourced somewhere else? If original I could use your loco's 6- number so I could look it up. Nice conversion BTW.

Richard

Thanks Richard, My engine is the 6-18067. The cab wall is original to the engine.

Doug

Thanks's for the quick response.

Richard

Little more parts box rummaging and I've got a complete GS4 tender. Little trick to use a PS3 wireless drawbar tender frame with a metal drawbar is to rummage in your parts bin, find a scrap Rail King tender frame with a drawbar pin, cut the front of the frame off, drill two holes in it, and bolt it to the front of the PS3 tender frame. Take da, instant drawbar pin. I didn't hook up the tender truck chains yet as I'll be removing the trucks when I install boards/speaker/etc to drill mounting holes. It's cosmetically all together except for blackening the drivers. I'll do that when it gets cooler out in the fall, along with wiring and installing a PS3 kit.

That's a great looking engine, Lou!

Darrell, Bob, nice work on the BEEPS.

Lou you've got some scrap box!

I stuck a 4 lobe cam in place of the factory 2 lobe cam on my TMCC Southern Pacific AC9. Much better sounding than the old 2 chuff cam, and an easy/cheap upgrade.

@coach joe posted:

Lou you've got some scrap box!

It's nothing compared to some other people's scrap boxes. I go to their scrap box when mine doesn't have what I need.

@Lou1985 posted:

I stuck a 4 lobe cam in place of the factory 2 lobe cam on my TMCC Southern Pacific AC9. Much better sounding than the old 2 chuff cam, and an easy/cheap upgrade.

For those of us who don't know any better, are those four lobe cams available to buy?

Also, does everything stay "in sync"?

Way cool.  Thanks for sharing....again!

@Berkshire President posted:

For those of us who don't know any better, are those four lobe cams available to buy?

Also, does everything stay "in sync"?

Way cool.  Thanks for sharing....again!

Well not exactly. You have to make one or have someone make you one. It's basically a 11.5mm square with a 4mm hole in the middle. Everything stays in sync as the cam is secured to the axle.

@Lou1985 posted:

It's nothing compared to some other people's scrap boxes. I go to their scrap box when mine doesn't have what I need.

I have scrap box envy....😬😬🤪🤪

@coach joe posted:

Darrell, Bob, nice work on the BEEPS.

Lou you've got some scrap box!

Thanks Joe.

Thanks Joe, 2 of 3 done!

"What's on the workbench at the moment"...

Lots. But it's the wrong scale.

Andre

What's NOT on the workbench at the moment. On the way back soon but......

https://ogrforum.com/...0#162194228127143330

Ground up cleaning of my postwar steamers and tenders. A few before and after pics.

@ChiTown Steve posted:

Ground up cleaning of my postwar steamers and tenders. A few before and after pics.

Nice job Steve.

What did you use for the clean up on the amateur and outher parts ? 🤔

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Nice job Steve.

What did you use for the clean up on the amateur and outher parts ? 🤔

Thanks. The internal part of the locomotive I started with mineral spirits and Q-Tips to get the easy grime/oil off. Let it dry over night. The hit it with a soft wire wheel on the dremel where ever I could. I mean every where too.

The shell got washed inside and out with dish washing soap.

Then I replaced the old cloth wires with new ones. It really helped make the whistle a lot stronger.

All oil and grease was removed from the gears. I replaced it with a Labelle bearing oil on the armature, light oil on the wheels and white lithium grease on the gears. Very light amounts in all cases.

All 6 engines and tenders are running great. Ready for another 70 years. Great engineering and build quality. 👍

ChiTown, nice job. I bet it will run as it did when it was assembled at the factory.

More progress on the Korber RH build

I'll tell you what is NOT on my workbench at the moment, it is my Lionel radar tower.  I started it in Oct of 2010 and it has been on my bench ever since.  Well last week I finally worked on it and it is off the bench and on the layout.  Just needs to be wired up.  Not too bad - 12 years.  Pretty darn quick if you ask me !

@Bill Sherry posted:

I'll tell you what is NOT on my workbench at the moment, it is my Lionel radar tower.  I started it in Oct of 2010 and it has been on my bench ever since.  Well last week I finally worked on it and it is off the bench and on the layout.  Just needs to be wired up.  Not too bad - 12 years.  Pretty darn quick if you ask me !

I really love the base for the tower, what all did you use?

I was in a hobby shop and saw sheets of plastic about 14 in square with various things on them - windows of all kinds and also this one with stone blocks.  I think you are to cut what you want to size and paint.  I turned it over and filled it with plaster of paris and have been using it here and there on the layout. 

On this base I framed it with wood and then just glued the walls to it.  Then added the stairs and lamp over the door.  Put a few LEDs inside to light up the door panels.

Other uses - made the pour with the mold curved so I could use it on a curved wall.

A few more ...

@Bill Sherry posted:

I was in a hobby shop and saw sheets of plastic about 14 in square with various things on them - windows of all kinds and also this one with stone blocks.  I think you are to cut what you want to size and paint.  I turned it over and filled it with plaster of paris and have been using it here and there on the layout. 

On this base I framed it with wood and then just glued the walls to it.  Then added the stairs and lamp over the door.  Put a few LEDs inside to light up the door panels.

Other uses - made the pour with the mold curved so I could use it on a curved wall.

A few more ...

Ingenious use of the sheet of plastic cut stone.

@Bill Sherry posted:

I was in a hobby shop and saw sheets of plastic about 14 in square with various things on them - windows of all kinds and also this one with stone blocks.  I think you are to cut what you want to size and paint.  I turned it over and filled it with plaster of paris and have been using it here and there on the layout. 

On this base I framed it with wood and then just glued the walls to it.  Then added the stairs and lamp over the door.  Put a few LEDs inside to light up the door panels.

Other uses - made the pour with the mold curved so I could use it on a curved wall.

A few more ...

Brilliant.

Thanks much for the comments !

@Alex M posted:

More progress on the Korber RH build

Nice - even though I added a floor to tie everything together, I also drilled small holes into the tops and bottoms of each corner and inserted about a 1.5" long, glued-up small diameter steel rod in each hole to help add some rigidity to the structure. A little putty and some touch-up paint and you would never know.

Will you be adding a floor and/or wiring for lights ?

Here's another little led project for lighting drumheads in passenger observation cars. It helps spread the light out across the drumhead and diminish the bright spot prevalent in most observation cars.      (Click for larger images)

The pcb certainly wouldn't be limited to that single use, however.  The leds are 0603 size and my source only had "white", not "warm white", the color I prefer.  The pcb is GRJ designed, and also requires an 0805 size smt resistor to match input voltages to the led(~3-3.2vdc).  The pcb design circuitry requires around 6vdc to light, using a 330ohm resistor.  Adjust to a higher number for higher input voltage.  Higher value resistance, the dimmer the light.  Suit your taste.

A few items I would recommend when working with such small components are:

A very small tip for your soldering iron. I use a Hakko soldering station as has been much recommended here on the forum.

The tip size is a T18--C05. It really worked well and made soldering the small components much easier.

Next is some small diameter rosin flux solder. I used .020"(0.5mm)

Third would be a good magnifier. Your choice. I use a visor, double lenses for increased magnification, Harbor Freight special, but many use the large round lighted ones, and I know they like them a lot.

The pcb has markings on it as do the leds for determining polarity.  Important when working with dc voltage leds.  Different manufacturers use different markers, but in my limited experience, they will all have a marker toward the cathode or negative side.

My technique for placing and soldering the components is the same as many here on the forum.  Put a dot of solder on one side pick and hold the component with tweezers and solder that side.  On this pcb, I go ahead and place one side of all six leds at once, then reorient the pcb and finish the other side.

Because I didn't like the white color of the leds once installed in the drumhead, I used some Tamiya X26 clear orange paint to yellow out the look. I prefer an incandescent look on lighting if possible. YMMV

I found that with a few specialized tools working with small components isn't all that bad. Give this lighting effect a whirl, on your drumheads, or whatever. I think it's worth the effort.  Now if I can persuade @AlanRail to print one of those beautiful railings/drumheads after I essentially destroyed it years ago in the initial lighting effort, I'll be golden.  

@TedW,

Thanks for the details on the soldering equipment. I tried to do some very detailed stuff on some custom pcbs yesterday, and while it went okay I knew it should have been easier. A fine tip iron and small diameter solder should do the trick.

Took a short break from The Big Project, and and piddled with some cars that have arrived over the course of the past week.

Going through them and adding metal wheels, adjusting coupler heights, cutting off truck mounted couplers and installing Kadee boxes and couplers (on the gondolas), etc, etc...

Today it's back to The Big Project.

Andre

@laming posted:

Took a short break from The Big Project, and and piddled with some cars that have arrived over the course of the past week.

Going through them and adding metal wheels, adjusting coupler heights, cutting off truck mounted couplers and installing Kadee boxes and couplers (on the gondolas), etc, etc...

Today it's back to The Big Project.

Andre

Nice , ribbed side boxcar

Ted.......Thanks for the drumhead post. Does John sell the board or did he post the pc board file?

Richard

@Rppoind posted:

Ted.......Thanks for the drumhead post. Does John sell the board or did he post the pc board file?

Richard

He has published the Gerber file, in another thread discussing lighting modifications on observation cars.  But here it is.  Hope this helps.

@texgeekboy posted:

@TedW,

Thanks for the details on the soldering equipment. I tried to do some very detailed stuff on some custom pcbs yesterday, and while it went okay I knew it should have been easier. A fine tip iron and small diameter solder should do the trick.

I too thank you, Ted.  I have the fine solder and magnifier, but I need to get the fine tipped soldering iron.  I will take a look at the Hakko because I have a lot of GJR parts to rewire my passenger cars.

By now most of you should know where this is going.  @Mark Boyce got this correct.  I don't care for the dark brown color so its off to get a can of spray paint of a much lighter flat color.  Have not decided on roof shingle type or color. Looks fine in its intended spot on the layout. The building itself is only 2" deep but 16 " wide. 

Jeff, I agree with you, it is too dark.  You will get it looking right.

Ok - picked up a flat red primer and a hunt club green typical of painted log structures.  Now which color? - I am leaning the red primer since it will be among trees. The green is a more woodsy than shown.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Ok - picked up a flat red primer and a hunt club green typical of painted log structures.  Now which color? - I am leaning the red primer since it will be among trees. The green is a more woodsy than shown.

I agree, the red primer would be best.

Going from on the workbench to off.  Still have to decide on a sign for the upper floor. Otherwise I would have installed 2 more windows. Decided to use primer red for the logs and the hunter green for the "corrugated metal" roof. Funny how the camera makes the imperfections jump out. Not too bad for a background building made of 1/4 ply, corrugated card stock, thin balsa strips and dowels. If I do this again, I might reduce the upper roof slope to be closer to the 30 degrees of the lower roof. I was concerned over the "look" of a pitched roof on a background building. Not enough roof showing would look wrong, this "looks" a little high. Maybe add green shutters to the upper windows to dress it up a bit.

Jeff, I did not notice the high pitch of the roof until you mentioned it.  Since you mentioned it, I agree it looks a little high, but I think it is quite acceptable.  Your choice of colors are perfect in my opinion.

Shutters might help the look. What about a chimney?

As I keep looking at it - shutters would be the way to go - a little drab as it.  Same issue with the chimney as with the roof line.  I thought the chimney would be behind where the building would be cut, so would not show up.  Flat roofed buildings are so much easier. Now I am thinking about stone chimneys on both ends. I would just cast pea gravel in plaster and then weather. 

@Lou1985 posted:

Well not exactly. You have to make one or have someone make you one. It's basically a 11.5mm square with a 4mm hole in the middle. Everything stays in sync as the cam is secured to the axle.

Lou in reading this I figured you likely make these from brass stock, but why couldn't they be 3D printed? The design is easy and you could print them several at a time, and once cured the resin becomes hard like glass. Here's a snip of the simple design file I came up with:

It's basically 11.5mm to a side, 5mm thick, with a 4mm hole as you said. I also radiused the corners to 7.6mm just to make life easier for the cherry switch activation lever. This gives a net switch stroke of 1.85mm which should work fine. If the corners were left not radiused the stroke would be 2.38mm.

I think it would also work if made in 2 pieces, and CA glued to the axle shaft in place in the truck. That would be way easier than disassembling the entire truck and having to re-quarter the drivers to put it back together. What do you think? Of course you still have to remove the old 2 lobe cam somehow I guess.......!

Rod

@Rod Stewart posted:

Lou in reading this I figured you likely make these from brass stock, but why couldn't they be 3D printed? The design is easy and you could print them several at a time, and once cured the resin becomes hard like glass. Here's a snip of the simple design file I came up with:

It's basically 11.5mm to a side, 5mm thick, with a 4mm hole as you said. I also radiused the corners to 7.6mm just to make life easier for the cherry switch activation lever. This gives a net switch stroke of 1.85mm which should work fine. If the corners were left not radiused the stroke would be 2.38mm.

I think it would also work if made in 2 pieces, and CA glued to the axle shaft in place in the truck. That would be way easier than disassembling the entire truck and having to re-quarter the drivers to put it back together. What do you think? Of course you still have to remove the old 2 lobe cam somehow I guess.......!

Rod

What you describe is what I did. Just 3D print a cam, pop the old cam out by splitting in half with a Xacto knife, CA glue in the new cam. Done.