WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Note sound exits front of speaker and holes are directly below, see markings.  Given the size and shape of the tender, it's probably about as good as they could do.  This is the standard configuration for 3rd Rail Vanderbilt tenders of that era.  It actually doesn't do at all bad...

John, do the boards come with TVS protection, or is that something you add during installation?

George

@SIRT posted:

                   More Jobs...

Steve ,is that rotary tool like a Foredom brand ?

I've been looking for something like that to do some micro wood carving on a couple projects.

Power unit is an H1OS model clt-50 yaesu, Japan. Obtained it in the 80's. Screw Driver is cl-6500 24V. Might be some on ebay?

Putting a new to me MTH RS-3 w/PS2 through a full maintenance. First step is always the battery. Discovered that I have a flaking speaker too. Parts are on order with @GRJ. Once the power and sound are tested, I'm going to add figures and cab lights.

Bob

Bob, what you are undertaking with your engines is very impressive. It’s cultivating the idea that I should learn the process. Although, I lack your electronic insights.

Jay

@RSJB18 posted:

Putting a new to me MTH RS-3 w/PS2 through a full maintenance. First step is always the battery. Discovered that I have a flaking speaker too. Parts are on order with @GRJ. Once the power and sound are tested, I'm going to add figures and cab lights.

Bob

Nice looking engine Bob.   Love the idea of using smoke unit batting for a speaker baffle (at least I think that is what you used).

John

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Bob, what you are undertaking with your engines is very impressive. It’s cultivating the idea that I should learn the process. Although, I lack your electronic insights.

Jay

Jay- As a licensed electrician, I am very comfortable with wiring and troubleshooting. I'm not skilled enough with electronics to do some of the work that the guru's on here can, but I won't shy away from replacing components if given the proper direction.

Reminds me of my first car, I wasn't much of a gear head growing up but when faced with repairs I couldn't afford, I figured it out with a little help from my friends. Paul McCartney had it right....

Thanks

@Craftech posted:

Nice looking engine Bob.   Love the idea of using smoke unit batting for a speaker baffle (at least I think that is what you used).

John

The batting was there when I opened it up. First time I've seen it so it must have been added by the previous owner.

Thanks

@Tranquil Hollow RR,

I’m with you on that. I’m reminded of my favorite Dilbert cartoon where he’s standing over a new, confused employee who’s typing at a PC and says ‘Go ahead, you can’t break it’.  The next frame shows a big explosion, and the final frame has them all disheveled and the PC ripped open and Dilbert says ‘Well, in my defense, that hardly ever happens’.

@RSJB18 posted:

The batting was there when I opened it up. First time I've seen it so it must have been added by the previous owner.

Thanks

Inside the tender of the Lionel 0-8-0 there is no room for the paint spray caps people recommended for a baffle, styrofoam cups aren't sold anymore, and nothing else seems to work because the tender narrows above the speaker (where the coal load is located).  The batting looks like a great solution.

I'll use the smoke unit "ropes" I have or one can even use the wicks from a TIKI torch.

John

@Craftech posted:

Inside the tender of the Lionel 0-8-0 there is no room for the paint spray caps people recommended for a baffle, styrofoam cups aren't sold anymore, and nothing else seems to work because the tender narrows above the speaker (where the coal load is located).

I have thin wall 2" PVC pipe from a built-in vacuum system.  I cut it to size on the bandsaw and then add a styrene top cut to size and glued on.  That means I can make a custom height baffle that will fit in most places.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have thin wall 2" PVC pipe from a built-in vacuum system.  I cut it to size on the bandsaw and then add a styrene top cut to size and glued on.  That means I can make a custom height baffle that will fit in most places.

Didn't think of that.  I have the same stuff in my garage from when I built the house.

Thanks 

John

@Craftech posted:

Inside the tender of the Lionel 0-8-0 there is no room for the paint spray caps people recommended for a baffle, styrofoam cups aren't sold anymore, and nothing else seems to work because the tender narrows above the speaker (where the coal load is located).  The batting looks like a great solution.

I'll use the smoke unit "ropes" I have or one can even use the wicks from a TIKI torch.

John

One cheap trick I use is to buy a small pack of Dixie cups, like the ones sold for mouthwash, etc. They can be cut down to size with a pair of scissors and then glued to the back or front of a speaker. Being just paper I didn't think they would work well, but surprisingly, they do a pretty fair job as a baffle!

George

@GeoPeg posted:

One cheap trick I use is to buy a small pack of Dixie cups, like the ones sold for mouthwash, etc. They can be cut down to size with a pair of scissors and then glued to the back or front of a speaker. Being just paper I didn't think they would work well, but surprisingly, they do a pretty fair job as a baffle!

George

Good to know George.

Thanks

John

@SIRT posted:

Power unit is an H1OS model clt-50 yaesu, Japan. Obtained it in the 80's. Screw Driver is cl-6500 24V. Might be some on ebay?

Thanks Steve.

Sirt, I just saw your Boars Head truck, it looks fantastic. What truck did you use? Thanks, John

Re-painted an old Athearn 1:50 scale Ford C W.P. box van, no longer made. Found a Boars Head sign on the net, re- sized it using excel. Printed out on photo paper. Covered with matte clear spray. Applied Loctite spray adhesive. Did an REA truck and MTH pup vans the same way.

Thanks.

Converted another K-Line PRR coach to Chicago and Northwestern.

I picked up a 2343 AA Set.  Olsen's Diagrams seems to be offline.  So where does 1 find a Diagram of the 2343 with the Parts Breakdown?  I need to order a few parts.

                   Covering these poorly done signs on the OEM model

@RK posted:

I picked up a 2343 AA Set.  Olsen's Diagrams seems to be offline.  So where does 1 find a Diagram of the 2343 with the Parts Breakdown?  I need to order a few parts.

Hi RK,

I just emailed 5 manual pages to you - I hope that helps

@Lionelski posted:

Hi RK,

I just emailed 5 manual pages to you - I hope that helps

Thanks.  Making a list & then doing an internet search to see who has the parts.

Back at making more backgrounds for a future switching layout.

Going toward more realistic paper!

Experimenting in progress...

Hello all ,

Here’s what’s on my workbench at the moment. VL CC2 , in need of a front frame replacement.

Steve, I know some of the paper model mfrs, talk about layering architectural details like door and window frames and pilasters and cornices to give depth.  Do you use that technique with your homegrown paper models?

@coach joe posted:

Steve, I know some of the paper model mfrs, talk about layering architectural details like door and window frames and pilasters and cornices to give depth.  Do you use that technique with your homegrown paper models?

What do you think, LOL!    How's this? - https://steves3roscale.shutterfly.com/pictures/22153

Still working on the bench and have completed all 16 side chutes and door detail for the Hart hoppers.    

Began working on the activation lever detail.  In order to produce a sizable hole in a narrow strip of styrene, it required four separate bits to reach the 3/32 hole needed for the tubing.      Started with a small pilot hole using my Dremel drill press, gradually increased the hole size using three more bits with the pin vise to reach the required size.     I found this method was helpful and increased my success rate to about 80%.  The trick was getting it centered and not trying to remove too much material with each bit.   Broke a few pieces of styrene along the way.

Today I worked on the corner bracing for the chutes.    My salvaged supply of copper “box staples” became very useful.   It is hard to find 1/16” flat copper strips.       

I made a little jig for cutting a groove with my track saw to help produce a sharper bend at the foot of the brace.

Cut them to size using a scale drawing and secured them in place with some two part marine epoxy I had in supply.

Now waiting for the 24 hour cure.

Will finish the other two early next week and begin the center bracing and activation levers.   The activation levers will be made from strips of copper that I will solder to a copper rod that slides into the 3/32 tubing.

Cheers to all and have a wonderful weekend!

Dave

PS:  I'm so impressed with you people who jump into the electronic and mechanical fixes!   Tackling that would scare me to death!  

@SIRT posted:

What do you think, LOL!    How's this? - https://steves3roscale.shutterfly.com/pictures/22153

That's what I expected but I had to ask.  I remember seeing you post during the build of that one.  The "Empire Carpet" didn't sink in until I just noticed the billboard on the roof.  That gave me a chuckle.  Love that Fender Guitar billboard.  is the "sign" off an actual guitar and what kind of screen did you use for the framework.  I can't say that I'm familiar with that wavy wire.

I just finished replacing the main smoke fan in my VL Hudson 700E.  I'm editing a video of the entire adventure now.  One funny thing happened. I isolated the main smoke fan motor as the problem  but, like a doctor removing the wrong organ, in my enthusiasm, I  removed the whistle smoke motor before I realized I "removed the wrong fan motor"   Well, I'm ready now when that one fails!

You've become quite the technician Ed'... I know where to send my motive power for repair when required'.... 😁👍

This 70-ton Air Slide covered hopper is from an American Standard kit from the 1990's.  American Standard is best known in O scale/gauge for its well detailed heavy weight passenger car kits and later light weight streamline kits a well.  Yet they also fielded some freight cars, this being one of them, as well as a modern (for that time) Rail-Gon being the other.

The 70-ton Air Slide covered hopper was not a common O scale car back then, other than a few expensive brass imports. The kit is styrene with some cast plastic parts - car sides, hoppers, end vents, shaker castings, bolsters, ladders, running board, roof end platforms, car steps and underframe ends.  All else is styrene sheet and strips. Many of them, all inventoried on the instruction sheet, which has diagrams drawn and printed to 3/16"/ ft scale for this 1/4" /ft scale model.  Deft handling of a scale ruler helps a lot. No couplers or trucks are provided.

I thought I might sell this kit. However, I probably not get anything near its original $ 19.90 cost from 30 odd years back. Even at $10 plus postage would be a price few would be willing to pay.

And it's not an easy kit to build. All the angle stock needed for car end bracing and roof ribs must be glued up from styrene strips to make the needed "L" shapes.   The underframe center sill too, is built up with styrene strips.  Further, it builds out to be a very light weight car in O scale, about 7 oz with Kadee couplers and Athearn "Symington" trucks under it.  So, I put in an 8 oz block of wood to bring it up to a more road-able 15oz. But therein lies a tale.

I detailed the brake rigging underneath and added air brake piping as well. All was ready for the final part, installing the brake wheel with is rod and chains at each end, to connect with the brake cylinder below.   Oh, I nearly forgot to say that its light weight also relates to its construction and details being rather fragile!  Also, that added built-in weight can be a liability when handling this model.

The two photos below will give you some idea of what the car is like and the unfortunate accident I had when grabbing it as it was rolling off the workbench a few days ago.   Other than those very fragile corner ladders that split down the middle of each rung on both sides, it is indeed quite repairable.

Later.

S. Islander

@Alex M posted:

Hello all ,

Here’s what’s on my workbench at the moment. VL CC2 , in need of a front frame replacement.

Ok ill bite, why do you need a front frame? Did the loco "take a dive" or zinc pest?

Installed the center bracing to one car tonight.  The thin center brass strip will become the activation lever holder.  Had to solder it in place before epoxying the bracing.   The weather has been so nice the past few days it's been hard to find time to sneak down to the bench.    

Life is good!

Cheers, Dave

@prrhorseshoecurve posted:

Ok ill bite, why do you need a front frame? Did the loco "take a dive" or zinc pest?

Hi Mark

The rear of the front frame snapped off , you can see the part that snapped off in the first picture. Another repair guy had this loco for almost a year , customer decided to get it back because he was tired of waiting for it, I Received it like this so I’m not sure how it broke. I do not see any signs of zinc rot.

Thanks, Alex

                                   12 GGD Battleships to decorate today.

                                                                Easy day!

                                                  Off to the blaster first...

Finished...

After finishing replacing the main smoke motor in my VL Hudson 700E, I've turned to the last of my collection needing attention.  The Acela set.  I'm starting with the non-powered engine #2029.  Pantograph motor does not run.  Either it has settled on a 'dead spot' Gunrunner John identified, or I need to replace it. Fortunately I have a motor and motherboard for that unit. 

@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:

You've become quite the technician Ed'... I know where to send my motive power for repair when required'.... 😁👍

Thanks Ted, but, I would not advise anyone to send me anything to fix....mostly my DIY projects of any kind end with a call to a pro!  But I do appreciate the vote of confidence.

@ToledoEd posted:

I just finished replacing the main smoke fan in my VL Hudson 700E.  I'm editing a video of the entire adventure now.  One funny thing happened. I isolated the main smoke fan motor as the problem  but, like a doctor removing the wrong organ, in my enthusiasm, I  removed the whistle smoke motor before I realized I "removed the wrong fan motor"   Well, I'm ready now when that one fails!

Ted, here's a video of the project:

After years of procrastinating I finally got around to upgrade my 20 year old K-Line Hudson thanks to a few rare rainy days here.

It got a new larger motor, yet to be tested for tractive effort plus 4 chuffs and fan smoke.

Four chuffs achieved by replacing the two lobe cam with a 4 lobe, my preferred method when possible.

And the result.

Pete

Norton has me thinking that my K-Line Hudson should be upgraded like this.....and not sitting on a shelf in my office, not having run in probably ten years or so.

It's too good looking of a model for that fate, me thinks.

@Berkshire President posted:

Norton has me thinking that my K-Line Hudson should be upgraded like this.....and not sitting on a shelf in my office, not having run in probably ten years or so.

It's too good looking of a model for that fate, me thinks.

Mine is in the waiting line to get upgraded with Pat aka Harmon Yards along with the Lionel Vandy tender version.

@SIRT posted:

Finished...

Really fast work Steve .

Usually being fast doesn't compute with the quality of the work done................................you don't fit that model sir.        Great job as usual .

@SIRT posted:

Finished...

Outstanding!  Great looking cars and wonderful weathering!   Have you made any videos detailing your weathering process?    Would love to get more information on your procedure and materials (washes, etc.) that you use.   Thanks!

Cheers, Dave

Started a project to convert the K-Line speeder to command control, for this one I am going to try to stuff sound into it as well.  I tried to make the cavity large enough to fit the ERR Mini Commander II in as well as the ERR RailSounds Commander.   I'll be using the gas powered doodlebug sound set, it seems the most appropriate for a small track speeder.

Here's the complement of boards and the speaker that will be used.

From all appearances, it seems I can fit them in.  It will be a tight fit, but I can interleave the components and generous use of Kapton tape for insulation will assist in that effort.  I may end up removing some connectors and hard wiring to the PCB pads, yet to be determined.  The speaker will be mounted to the inside of the cab with some sound holes before I glue the last panel in.

I also trimmed all the excess leads off both boards to minimize their height as much as possible.

Since the seats were too large and an integral part of the frame, they were chopped off and will be replaced with seats and suitable O-scale sized figures to drive the speeder.

My thinking is to paint it yellow for M.O.W. as that fits in with any road name.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Started a project to convert the K-Line speeder to command control, for this one I am going to try to stuff sound into it as well.  I tried to make the cavity large enough to fit the ERR Mini Commander II in as well as the ERR RailSounds Commander.   I'll be using the gas powered doodlebug sound set, it seems the most appropriate for a small track speeder.

Here's the complement of boards and the speaker that will be used.

From all appearances, it seems I can fit them in.  It will be a tight fit, but I can interleave the components and generous use of Kapton tape for insulation will assist in that effort.  I may end up removing some connectors and hard wiring to the PCB pads, yet to be determined.  The speaker will be mounted to the inside of the cab with some sound holes before I glue the last panel in.

I also trimmed all the excess leads off both boards to minimize their height as much as possible.

Since the seats were too large and an integral part of the frame, they were chopped off and will be replaced with seats and suitable O-scale sized figures to drive the speeder.

My thinking is to paint it yellow for M.O.W. as that fits in with any road name.

WOW John. That's tight. Keep us posted.

Bob

@ToledoEd posted:

After finishing replacing the main smoke motor in my VL Hudson 700E, I've turned to the last of my collection needing attention.  The Acela set.  I'm starting with the non-powered engine #2029.  Pantograph motor does not run.  Either it has settled on a 'dead spot' Gunrunner John identified, or I need to replace it. Fortunately I have a motor and motherboard for that unit.

I just finished 'fixing' this unit.  I replaced a Pantograph motor and the Panto PCB Board.  When I opened up the shell, I noticed one of the motors was missing a screw...see Pic 1. I tested both motors and they ran fine. So, I suspected it was the PCB. So, I just replaced both units and, as you'll see in the video below, it fixed the problem.  However, since that motor is missing a screw, and as you can see in Pic 2, it secures that thing which holds the mechanism which raises and lowers the Panto... I'm going to see if that was the problem after all  The mechanism stops because that piece that keeps the rod stable and straight bends.  So, when I get the right screw, I'm going to reassemble all the old parts and test whether that missing screw has the cause of the problems.

Also, as I looked back at threads regarding the Pantos, I saw some confusion about prototypical Pantograph position. The video answers that question as well.

Pic 1 missing screw

Screw goes here to secure the device holding the rod secure

A fellow club member brought me another MTH subway set to convert to LED strip lights.  The conversion was completed this evening for this six car set. 

This is some raw video I shot of this interesting set BEFORE the conversion.  Apparently, the backstory is that MTH asked for an MTA license to produce this graffiti set and MTA refused because it objected to the graffiti theme; hence, the absence of the MTA logo on these cars.  Whatever, it's a colorful set.

@RSJB18 posted:

WOW John. That's tight. Keep us posted.

Bob

Got the basics wired and ran my first test.  No lights as they get added after the shell gets painted, but the sound was better than I thought from the tiny speaker.

Working on my Menard's Autoracks, they have some wobble from the factory:

Each car also had at least one if not both couplers that would not stay closed, so I went to the MTH parts website and bought 8 diecast trucks. I figured this won't only help with the wobble but would add some weight to the bottom of the cars.

So the first thing to do is separate the chassis from the car to remove the trucks.

There are 4 screws at each end and 2 screws in the center spine:

Then they separate:

To remove the trucks you have to drill out the rivet:

Then since the screws I have won't fit inside the post it had to go!

Since I was making a tighter fit of the trucks to the chassis I installed a grommet in the chassis and then installed the new trucks with the 3mm screws I had.

The ride height is the same as the factory trucks, this means it will still go around 027 curves:

Test run was perfect! No couplers opened and the wobble has all but been eliminated!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Got the basics wired and ran my first test.  No lights as they get added after the shell gets painted, but the sound was better than I thought from the tiny speaker.

That's awesome John. Gives me hope that I could squeeze everything into a K-line Plymouth. Have you every tried?

Bob

Purchased a Lionel TUG-OF-WAR 6-82107 as not working.  Usually with these type of units I've found that the issue is with the grease hardening and preventing the mechanism from moving.  When I removed the back, I was surprised to see a broken gear.  A search for replacement parts turned up nothing that was available.  So, I purchased a bag of assorted gears from Amazon for $5.00.  I found the correct size, bored out the hole with a drill bit to fit the shaft and I was in business.

@RSJB18 posted:

That's awesome John. Gives me hope that I could squeeze everything into a K-line Plymouth. Have you every tried?

Bob

The K-Line Plymouth is on my "to-do" list.  I figure I'd have to replace the huge smoke unit with one of the small MTH units, either the HO one or the O-scale whistle smoke model.  Then I might have room for the Mini-Commander 2 in the front hood and the sound board in the back.  I've fixed several Plymouth engines, so I do kinda' know my way around them.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The K-Line Plymouth is on my "to-do" list.  I figure I'd have to replace the huge smoke unit with one of the small MTH units, either the HO one or the O-scale whistle smoke model.  Then I might have room for the Mini-Commander 2 in the front hood and the sound board in the back.  I've fixed several Plymouth engines, so I do kinda' know my way around them.

Smoke in a diesel is not a must have for me. I'd take it out if necessary. The stock smoke unit in the Plymouth is a good one though.

I've had the front hood off a couple of mine ( I only have 6) The K-line boards are squeezed in as-is.

My grand plan is to make this from one.

Some rainy weather provided some motivation to return to the bench.    Completed construction of two hopper cars. This involved soldering up and placing some activation levers. Two more to go before the four get washed and primed.   

Heading up north today to rail fan with three of my 3-rail buddies. We will visit the Lake Superior RR Museum in Duluth and the Wisconsin Great Northern RR Museum in Trego, Wisconsin. Trego is the current home of the Mark Twain Zephyr. Will check out the Zephyr rebuild progress and also enjoy a couple train rides and a dinner train experience during the next few days.

Cheers to all,

Dave

Had to repair the new to me weaver GP38-2 Magma loco. The bottom sprocket on the chain tower was cracked, once I replaced that turning it by hand revealed there was a bind in the axle transmission. Replaced the geared axle and now it runs smooth!. I'm happy I had left over parts from when I rebuilt my weaver RS.

A couple of C-Liners being bashed into shape.

This finally left the workbench. Started out as a Lionel NYC caboose. You can pick these up fairly reasonable. I wanted a Rutland caboose with 4 windows. Cutting the extra windows was tedious. I used Scale City windows which are fairly close but not a lot of room for error. This particular early caboose had a higher cupola. I used one from an Ambroid kit. It has the right look. Just has 3 side windows rather than prototypes 2. It was a metal casting that had pretty much the right contour. I JB Welded 2 studs to it and used a basswood wood sheet painted black to hide the lack of an interior which was snugged down with a couple of nuts. The NYC and Rutland had 4 boards for the roofwalk. I’m guessing Lionel got it right on their pre war version as Williams brass reproduction features 4. The molded in boards don’t sit very high of the roof. I split some old Weaver walks and glued them in place. The other tedious project was forming new handrails from some phosphor bronze wire. New brake wheels were added.

What got me started on this project was some 3D printed trucks on eBay that looked to be correct for this early version. Archbars with a leaf spring. Well I got the trucks to work. They appear to be on steroids as far as wheelbase and width. I used Atlas pickup rollers with a slight mod to get them to sit higher. Seeing the trucks are plastic. I needed a ground wiper. I was able to tweak the stock Lionel one to fit after drilling to holes to line up with the Atlas mount. I used Tomar LED Adlake lamps. The finish on the trucks is a little crude. I know nothing about 3D printing but they seemed well made for the price. From normal viewing distance none of this is noticeable.
Decals are from Tichy Train Group. I don’t know if I’d do another one. But it’s nice to have a different version on the caboose track.

@Dave_C posted:

This finally left the workbench. Started out as a Lionel NYC caboose. You can pick these up fairly reasonable. I wanted a Rutland caboose with 4 windows. Cutting the extra windows was tedious. I used Scale City windows which are fairly close but not a lot of room for error. This particular early caboose had a higher cupola. I used one from an Ambroid kit. It has the right look. Just has 3 side windows rather than prototypes 2. It was a metal casting that had pretty much the right contour. I JB Welded 2 studs to it and used a basswood wood sheet painted black to hide the lack of an interior which was snugged down with a couple of nuts. The NYC and Rutland had 4 boards for the roofwalk. I’m guessing Lionel got it right on their pre war version as Williams brass reproduction features 4. The molded in boards don’t sit very high of the roof. I split some old Weaver walks and glued them in place. The other tedious project was forming new handrails from some phosphor bronze wire. New brake wheels were added.

What got me started on this project was some 3D printed trucks on eBay that looked to be correct for this early version. Archbars with a leaf spring. Well I got the trucks to work. They appear to be on steroids as far as wheelbase and width. I used Atlas pickup rollers with a slight mod to get them to sit higher. Seeing the trucks are plastic. I needed a ground wiper. I was able to tweak the stock Lionel one to fit after drilling to holes to line up with the Atlas mount. I used Tomar LED Adlake lamps. The finish on the trucks is a little crude. I know nothing about 3D printing but they seemed well made for the price. From normal viewing distance none of this is noticeable.
Decals are from Tichy Train Group. I don’t know if I’d do another one. But it’s nice to have a different version on the caboose track.

Dave, ….when I grow up, I can only hope to poses your skills,…..great work buddy!!

Pat

"when I grow up, I can only hope to poses your skills"  says the man whose Hudson upgrades are akin to how Ferrari builds automobiles.

@coach joe posted:

"when I grow up, I can only hope to poses your skills"  says the man whose Hudson upgrades are akin to how Ferrari builds automobiles.

That is very true coach. Pat's got a lot of Hudson's, one day I hope to at least have half of the Hudson's he has. That is a lot of Hudson's. Where's my rainy day fund, lol.

I got a Lionel 18206 Santa Fe Dash 8 40B on auction.  It wasn't in as good of shape as stated, but not bad.  I was able to get it running well with a little electronic cleaner.  The issue I had is with the poor cab/number board/headlight lighting.  This was due to where the flashing bulb on top was positioned.  Lionel had to mask around it so as to not have flashing light leaking into the cab, but by doing so they greatly diminished the light output from the single incandescent bulb which was right behind it.

I am in the process of putting two 5mm cool white LEDs for the headlights, and two 3mm warm white frosted LEDs to light up the number boards, and as a side benefit they provide plenty of light for the cab.  I'm removing the incandescent bulb totally.  I'll also add a bulkhead where the frame for the light holder ends so when looking through the front windows you do not see all way to the back.  The bulkhead will be painted black and I pasted on some pictures of valves, control panels, and engine control looking stuff.

The picture below is where I'm at.  The blue tape was added as more cover for the flashing light since it still bled through the black tape (underneath).  The factory white incandescent bulb is behind it.  Also, at the top of the frame I added an engineer to that (left) side so the guy at the bottom of the pic (right side)  doesn't get lonely.  I'll post an 'after' picture in a few days.

@texgeekboy  looking forward to the finished product. I have 2 Atlas diesels I am going to do the same to.  Thanks in advance for the details. 

A few weeks ago I received a static model of a H0 Crocodile. The plan was to display it sticking out of my Marklin roundhouse. Needless to say it did not arrive from France intact . Ends up it has a cast frame with a lot of zinc pest. I glued most of the chunks together. The major issues will be hidden inside the roundhouse.

Steve

Well, it took 10 days but 'Later' finally arrived today!  The American Standard kit built 70-ton Airslide covered hopper "B" end has been repaired from its mishap and more details have been added.  The car is now complete, from the top of the running board to the bottom of the side sills.

Remaining to be done are uncoupling rods and car steps. The plastic originals are very fragile plastic and are an easily broken part. So, I will be making them in brass.

The prototype design has the uncoupling rod bracket attached to the car step, so it's even more important that they be strong. Underneath the car has one more challenge.  Plumbing for the air feed at the bottoms of the hoppers will require .035" or so dia. piping wire, 8 elbows, 4 anchor braces, 2 unions and 2 air connection valves.  I shall see what can be done with what is already at hand.  Then, paint!

S. Islander     

@ScoutingDad,

I finished my LED project on my Dash8-40B.  The first picture at the bottom shows the inside work before I zipped it up.  Note the green shrink tubing on the two sides.  The ends are 3 mm warm white LEDs.  They do a good job of lighting up the number boards (they're right behind them), and I didn't mask off the light going inside since it was the light need for the cab interior.  Note that I cut a strip of 3m double sided heavy mounting tape to fit inside the pillar.  I pressed the shrink wrap tubing against that tape and it seems to be holding well.  You can barely see it from the outside.  Now note the orange arrow.  It is pointing to two 5 mm cool white LEDs placed side by side, and the shrink tubing is keeping them close together, right behind the headlight lenses, and they look great.  I did mask the light from these bulbs going into the cabin because it would have been too much.  Again I used double sided 3m tape cut to fit the pillar and hold the shrink tubing.  If I had to do it again, I would use 3 mm cool whit bulbs, which would make the end of the shrink tubing behind the headlights smaller.  You can see this wire a little bit from the outside, but oh well.  I did not glue any of the bulbs in place.  I hope the 3m tape will keep them from moving.

Update: The partially exposed wire for the headlights is too annoying.  Since I didn't glue them to the lens, and the wiring now is not bad to deal with, I will be replacing them with two 3 mm, although I don't know if I have any cool whites in my supply.  If not, it might be a few days.  I'll update the pic then.

Note the little person with one leg hanging.  I glued this engineer figure to the side since there was nothing there.  I cut off his right leg so as to not potentially interfere with the motor movement.

The blue tape is on top of the factory black tape to mask off the flashing light from the inside.  The strange looking thing on the far left of the pic is a bulkhead I made so as to not be able to see the entire inside from the front of the engine.  I painted it black and pasted on some pictures of equipment of what might be inside a diesel.  I think it looks way better than what I got from the factory

I removed the incandescent bulb from the front, and used the power going into that to drive my 4 LEDs (wired in parallel).  I still kept the grain of wheat bulb for the flashing bulb on top, and didn't replace the light bulb in the back.  I did doctor the bulb holder a bit to remove some stuff blocking the light output.

I attached short videos showing the outside of the front cabin close up, and one of it coming down the track.

Another PRR to CNW passenger car done, this time a sleeper. I started on the baggage car, after that I'll do the obs car, then the consist will be done.

Had a club locomotive need some TLC traction tires were shot and just time for smoke unit maintenance plus a full clean and lube. I don’t know if was completely necessary but I like to remove as much old grease and oil as possible and go back with fresh. Plus of course new smoke unit batting.

FlyerChief Berk

PS excuse the other mess on the workbench 😅

Seldom attempted...never duplicated (in real life and in O gauge):

This NW2 came out of the Childress, TX shops in red/gray.  It is my understanding that Management said, "don't do this again".  So, this was the only switcher ever painted this way.  This is a RailKing model. I plan to pair it with a powered blackbird SW1200 according to FW&D practice.

I must have an "illness" because this will be my fifth GP7 to be repainted for Frisco.  This time it is an Atlas dummy unit as opposed to the previous four Lionel Legacy Geeps:

Slowly putting together a Frisco Meteor by re-lettering Lionel TS cars.  Notice the difference between the aluminum cars as opposed to the plastic cars which appear to be completely "shadow-lined...I will have to cut out and apply letter and number boards for those.  One car is lettered for PRR.  The Meteor had thru sleepers from PRR, B&O, Boston and Albany, and maybe a few more:

Here is another observation car for my Fort Worth & Denver Zephyr (there's that illness again).  The two observation cars were similar in appearance with the exception of one having a neon tail sign, and the other having a more typical drumhead.  K4 decals makes lettering for the TZ including a translucent decal simulating the neon tail sign:

Finally, a wonderful 85' baggage/mail car for the TZ.  This is an Empire State Express car to be re-lettered:

P.S.  I truly like my new Badger 260 soda blaster...it is a fantastic timesaver.

Purchased two more Lionel woodsided boxcars to letter for Quanah, Acme & Pacific Rwy. (my past employer).  I have previously done 3 already using K4 decals.  The next two will get Protocraft decals...I am still pleasantly surprised that two different companies would make decals for our "little giant" of a railroad:

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The K-Line Plymouth is on my "to-do" list.  I figure I'd have to replace the huge smoke unit with one of the small MTH units, either the HO one or the O-scale whistle smoke model.  Then I might have room for the Mini-Commander 2 in the front hood and the sound board in the back.  I've fixed several Plymouth engines, so I do kinda' know my way around them.

I'd be very interested to see your treatment of a K-line Plymouth. Here's mine.

ADDING SOME VERIETY TO YOUR TRAILER TRAIN.

Modifying an MTH flat to accommodate a Lionel PUP Trailer. This allows both types of your favorite trailers to run together in any combination!

This configuration will allow one MTH & one Lionel (by size) by just moving and adding some wheel chocks. Some existing holes can be covered with Mylar, and new ones can be drilled. One deck fitting needs to be shortened to clear the Lionel stanchion wheels. MTH Junker flats are cheap and can be stripped for spare parts. I also added the newer style R.B. trucks with hidden un-couplers and air hoses. Spray rust primer & flat black, quickly give it a weathered - finished look.

Back in early July I posted to this thread an old Walthers kit build-in-process...

It was ready for the paint shop.  However, one of the things that intrigued me...besides the whimsical nature of this MOW creation...was the box label showing ATSF lettering of the car.  I wondered that this, too, was whimsical fantasy.  I sent out some inquiries seeking verification, but got zippo responses.

Ergo, we pressed onward, fearlessly...

Pardon those bodacious dummy couplers.  Since this MOW beast will probably just sit on a sidetrack with its kindred creations, these 'Lobstah Claw-compatibles' are sufficient to the cause.  Archbar trucks are Athearn, but with IM metal O2R wheelsets in place of the plastic-wheeled O3R axles...which work just fine on Ross/Gargrave rails...or sitting on a sidetrack!

No, probably not prototypical.  I don't care.  It was funky fun.

Next up?...modifying an ATSF Ambroid Caboose kit to represent a different version of their early waycars.  The workbench IS my current 'man cave'!!

KD

KD that looks very impressive; great job. That will look nice on a siding waiting for an assignment. Are you going to weather your creation?

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

KD that looks very impressive; great job.  Are you going to weather your creation?

Jay

Thanks, Jay.

Re weathering...Ouch.  I tried.  But not to the extent many of the pro's in the hobby might have.

Maybe changes in the photography/lighting could've done more to show my intent.  It's subtle, I'll admit.  I tell myself 'I'll try to do better next time.'  This is the sort of compromise that earned me the knickname, Lucas Gudinov, by a former employee at the LHS.  I can only fuss for so long on things that are yet mysteries to me.  Then..."Looks good enough!"   Time to move on.

It is what it is.

I need to remove the car numbers from Lionel's latest LIRR passenger cars.  Any suggestions on the best way without damage to the car color?

@FrankRazz posted:

I need to remove the car numbers from Lionel's latest LIRR passenger cars.  Any suggestions on the best way without damage to the car color?

I  have used Scalecoate II Wash Away with some success.   Using a Q-tip with solution you might be able to remove the number without damaging the gray finish.   Need to be careful and take your time, do not to let the solution linger and damage the gray base coat.   I have also been able to remove markings on MTH die cast metal items using Acetone without cutting into the base color.  It is tricky, but if you take your time and do not let the solution set too long, it can be done.   Are you interested in changing numbers or just removing the entire number?    Good Luck!

Cheers, Dave

@dkdkrd posted:

No, probably not prototypical.  I don't care.  It was funky fun.

KD

Hey, you're riding 3-rails!   You are forgiven!  

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Great project!!!

@darlander posted:

I  have used Scalecoate II Wash Away with some success.   Using a Q-tip with solution you might be able to remove the number without damaging the gray finish.   Need to be careful and take your time, do not to let the solution linger and damage the gray base coat.   I have also been able to remove markings on MTH die cast metal items using Acetone without cutting into the base color.  It is tricky, but if you take your time and do not let the solution set too long, it can be done.   Are you interested in changing numbers or just removing the entire number?    Good Luck!

Cheers, Dave

I want to remove the numbers and replace them with the below decals.  The "Ride the....Travel easy" goes above the windows.  I have the MYH original 5 car set, see below, I just want to add four more cars.

@FrankRazz posted:

I want to remove the numbers and replace them with the below decals.  The "Ride the....Travel easy" goes above the windows.  I have the MYH original 5 car set, see below, I just want to add four more cars.

If when removing the numbers you damage some of the base color, you should be able to find a close color match from TCP (Tru- Color Paint) or other supplier, and just repaint the panel.    Then gloss it and add the decals, etc.   Looks like the final finish should be Testers 1260T Dullcote.   Good luck with your project!

Cheers, Dave

The Mighty Cab-Forward 2-4-0. (I think that the SP called them "cab-aheads").

Tender un-modified (I did convert it to oil) and un-restored. Pre War O-gauge American Flyer. It even came (eBay) with the SP decals already on it. I call in a "Vanderwhale" type, as the die-cast tooling mixes Vanderbilt and whaleback shapes in the tank area.

Knurled driver surface removed; no more "g-r-r-r".

Below - Started with this. Decided to not use the Lionel slope-back "roach" tender, though I like them. Do not like the cheesy side rods on these engines.

A real PITA project, it turns out. Runs very well - good gearing, heavy flywheel. Still using the 30-year-old MTH/QSI rev unit.

ERR would be nice....

Years ago Kemtron had a casting to convert the Varney Little Joe to cab forward.

I picked up a Menards mystery box several months ago.  It came with a lighted Morton Salt pickup but the plug had been cut off.   I picked up a plug without the connector from someone in a Menard’s Facebook group (thanks Kurt) and was able to solder it back together.  A pretty simple fix, but the small wires and compact design made it more challenging than I was expecting.  Glad to have it fully working.  

@Scotie posted:

Years ago Kemtron had a casting to convert the Varney Little Joe to cab forward.

I was wondering if anyone would remember that. I still have my Varney Docksider, but never tried the Kemtron conversion. I was young. Late 1950's - early 1960's.  I believe that they offered a separate sale small Vandy tender to go with it. I think that I still have a Kemtron catalogue somewhere.

That Varney/Kemtron thing was the reason I did this 3RO version of it. Finally I have my cab-forward-ette. I was first intending to use the ROW brass version of the loco, but it was just too pretty, and, oddly, the MTH RK loco actually runs smoother than the ROW version.

An MTH wedge plow for installing KD couplers.

@D500 posted:

I was first intending to use the ROW brass version of the loco, but it was just too pretty, and, oddly, the MTH RK loco actually runs smoother than the ROW version.

Really?  Doesn't your RK Docksider have the corrugated wheels?  I have one I converted to TMCC, but it is noisy.  Runs great and actually pulls quite a load, but makes a lot of racket doing it.

@D500 posted:

The Mighty Cab-Forward 2-4-0. (I think that the SP called them "cab-aheads").

Knurled driver surface removed; no more "g-r-r-r".

Neat loco. Never saw a cab forward tank engine.

I have 3 of the MTH 0-4-0's. What was your method for removing the knurling on the drive wheels? I've considered running it upside down and holding a dremel grinding wheel to wheels.

I love the engines but hate the washing machine noise.

Bob

I would think your technique of running it upside down and removing them would work.  I would recommend the sanding disks, they work better and last longer.  You could also consider the carbide cutters, but they work fast and might get away from you.

I tapered the wheels of my Lionel PRR T1 Duplex using the Dremel sanding disk, rotating the wheels.  It worked out well and was easier than I thought it would be.  I finished it off with a Cratex Wheel to make a smooth surface on the taper.

Not exactly on the workbench but close enough. After many years, some of the guys and myself got together at the La Habra Childrens Museum for a major track and shelf cleaning. Thomas has been getting very cranky lately.

Steve

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I would think your technique of running it upside down and removing them would work.  I would recommend the sanding disks, they work better and last longer.  You could also consider the carbide cutters, but they work fast and might get away from you.

I tapered the wheels of my Lionel PRR T1 Duplex using the Dremel sanding disk, rotating the wheels.  It worked out well and was easier than I thought it would be.  I finished it off with a Cratex Wheel to make a smooth surface on the taper.

I indeed removed the knurled driver surfaces, using a Dremel turning at moderate speed, and the loco's wheel turning fairly slowly. The loco isn't a lathe, so the Dremel did the work while the turning drivers constantly presented a new surface. I just used one of the Dremel's grinder bits - sort of a slim one to reduce interference with the flanges. Just hold the tool steady with the loco on its back in a cradle, clipped for power. Moderate speeds. Patience. Loco still pulls well. Wheels still round.

You mentioned doing something like this on your Lionel PRR T1. I have that loco, and this success with the Dremel and the cab-forward made me wonder about that loco's wide blind driver issue on some switches. Nice to know that a similar method can work on the T1, too.

@D500 posted:

You mentioned doing something like this on your Lionel PRR T1. I have that loco, and this success with the Dremel and the cab-forward made me wonder about that loco's wide blind driver issue on some switches. Nice to know that a similar method can work on the T1, too.

Before tapering the wheels, it wasn't possible to run the T1 Duplex on my layout, it shorted on the curved switches and the double-slip switches.  If you tried to use the out route of a plain #4 switch, it would short there too.  I used a Dremel sanding tool with a coarse drum, it didn't load up as fast as the grinding wheel does, and I have lots of the little sanding drums.  It was finished off using the Cratex abrasive wheel.

@dkdkrd posted:

Back in early July I posted to this thread an old Walthers kit build-in-process...

It was ready for the paint shop.  However, one of the things that intrigued me...besides the whimsical nature of this MOW creation...was the box label showing ATSF lettering of the car.  I wondered that this, too, was whimsical fantasy.  I sent out some inquiries seeking verification, but got zippo responses.

Ergo, we pressed onward, fearlessly...

Pardon those bodacious dummy couplers.  Since this MOW beast will probably just sit on a sidetrack with its kindred creations, these 'Lobstah Claw-compatibles' are sufficient to the cause.  Archbar trucks are Athearn, but with IM metal O2R wheelsets in place of the plastic-wheeled O3R axles...which work just fine on Ross/Gargrave rails...or sitting on a sidetrack!

No, probably not prototypical.  I don't care.  It was funky fun.

Next up?...modifying an ATSF Ambroid Caboose kit to represent a different version of their early waycars.  The workbench IS my current 'man cave'!!

KD

This turned out great.  I like the added details like the barrels and gas cans.  No one can make me believe the Santa Fe never rostered some homemade MOW car like this.

@FrankRazz posted:

I need to remove the car numbers from Lionel's latest LIRR passenger cars.  Any suggestions on the best way without damage to the car color?

Frank there's been lots of topics about removing lettering without damaging the underlying paint. A search will turn up numerous methods.  I've had success with Testor's Easy Lift Off (ELO).  and Mr. Clean Magic Erasers.  The ELO is a slow acting paint remover that will remove the lettering and leave the base paint.  Follow the instructions and keep it on the numbers and you should be fine. I got my can at Forum Sponsor Trainland but I'm sure Nassau Hobby would have it also.  The Magic Eraser will work but may alter the finish of the base paint while not removing it but since you're re-decaling you'll probably dullcote any way so that shouldn't be a problem.  I used an electric draftsman's eraser once and stripped LIONEL LINES right of the tender of an 0-8-0 switcher.  It didn't hurt the base paint but it did polish it a little to satin sheen.  I also remember Chris Lonero using a Pink Pearl eraser to remove PENNSYLVANIA from the side of a WbB 44 tonner.

D500 this is incredible!  A lot of imagination to turn the ubiquitous dock sider into a cab ahead and then adding such a unique tender.  At first I missed the 2-4-0 wheel arrangement but then realized you added that leading truck also.  You did a masterful job cutting 4294 to fit the back, er front of the 2-4-0 cab.

Upgrading the flasher to led’s and a Dalee flashing circuit.

@coach joe posted:

D500 this is incredible!  A lot of imagination to turn the ubiquitous dock sider into a cab ahead and then adding such a unique tender.  At first I missed the 2-4-0 wheel arrangement but then realized you added that leading truck also.  You did a masterful job cutting 4294 to fit the back, er front of the 2-4-0 cab.

Thanks for the kind words. It was a bigger project than I expected (as is often the case), but I am pleased with the results. The loco runs very well, but is only conventional. I may add ERR CC to it - but I'm not sure. I'm just glad to be through with it, at least for now.

I was inspired by a Kemtron detail company (long out of business) HO cab-forward kit for the Varney Docksider. I still have my Varney. The kit included the cab front and a 4-wheel front truck. A tender was available. I was 12 or so, and my skills and allowance made that kit a bit daunting. I had recently put my Lionel equipment and track away (I had had a layout since '54) and had decided to go with HO from then on.

You see how well that worked out.

Today it was off the workbench and onto the patio.   What a prime day for adding primer to my completed Hart ballast hoppers!

So, What's on your patio???

Cheers,  Dave

Upgrades to my Weaver Magma GP38, added ERR cruise commander along with railsounds commander. I have no idea how I got it all to fit! LOL

Original electronics.

Cruise commander installed.

All back together, complete with handrails this time.

Test run!

Work on my CNW heavyweight consist continues. Got the baggage car in CNW paint. Just need to do the observation car and the set is done.

fifth one in the roster.

New acquisition needs some TLC.  2001 MTH unshrouded J just needs a speaker replacement and some upgraded sound files.

             Rail king to Premier...

Hoppers in final color.   Now resting for a 48+ hour cure!  

Cheers, Dave

Got the CNW observation done and completed the set. Baggage, two coaches, diner, sleeper, observation. Now my Premier CNW E4 Hudson has something to pull.

I have a couple of wheel sets that need to be re-gauged.   They need to be slightly wider- flange to flange.   Any suggestions?   Thanks!

Dave

I got a great 356 station from Stout Auctions a while back and just got to it. I took out the old incandescent bulb (left the holder), and put a small (3) warm white LED string in the roof bracket and the same inside the station house.

@darlander posted:

I have a couple of wheel sets that need to be re-gauged.   They need to be slightly wider- flange to flange.   Any suggestions?   Thanks!

Dave

Dave- get a wheel puller from Frank at Timko. Works like a charm. The digital caliper was $40.00 at HD.

I've had issues with a few of my Menards cars.

@darlander posted:

I have a couple of wheel sets that need to be re-gauged.   They need to be slightly wider- flange to flange.   Any suggestions?   Thanks!

Dave

The Timko wheel puller works pretty well for this, just carefully crank down until you get them at the right spacing.  I did a bunch of Menard's cars, and I found that I could manage to do it without taking the wheelsets out of the trucks, a major time savings for Menard's trucks.

Reguaging Menard's Boxcar Wheels The Easy Way

Started on the unpainted Premier ATSF Texas I picked up from Cabin Fever earlier in the year. Tender was unpainted, so I painted/decaled/clear coated it over the past couple of days. Paint is SEM Trim Black with SEM 1K clear sprayed over it.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The Timko wheel puller works pretty well for this, just carefully crank down until you get them at the right spacing.  I did a bunch of Menard's cars, and I found that I could manage to do it without taking the wheelsets out of the trucks, a major time savings for Menard's trucks.

Reguaging Menard's Boxcar Wheels The Easy Way

Found a friend with a wheel puller and he fixed them on Saturday.   The wheel sets were Weaver.   I also have issues with some Menard's boxcars that are currently on a display shelf because of wheel gauge issues.   Will save that fix for another day.  The car that needed the fix would spark on this switch.   The spark would cause my resting engines to start up.   Another remedy, I put a small strip of electrical tape along the side edge of the center rail.    

Cheers, Dave

Repainting to southern railway

A new ballast load is in the mold.   It's the first of 4 new ones needed for the recently completed Hart hoppers!

Cheers, Dave

Hoppers receiving decals.   One side completed!

Cheers, Dave

These just finished rolling off my bench this week. Some custom painted Lionel 607/608 cars. I started with five cars (four observation cars and one coach), with a mismatch of trucks, journal covers, end platform colors, underframe pieces, roof pieces, etc. and turned them into this, with a pile of parts left over!

Full story here.

More work on the ATSF Texas. Cab decaled and cleared, boiler painted. The SEM Trim Black produces such a good finish from the rattle can there's no need to mix it and spray it with a gun.

Been working on a matt board/card stock station for the wife's "glitterhouse" collection:

Loosely based on the Dorfan 425 from 1930-ish. Numerous modifications in height, length, window placement, and the addition of interior walls. Made a set of windows using MS Excel, printed on translucent vellum paper. Hoping to pair it with the signal tower made earlier:

Just finished the "preservation" of the 3461 green lumber unloading car. This was purchased in August and needed the usual coupler springs and wheel cleaning however the unloading platform was a bit rusted and the brake stand was missing. I used the Krylon flat black spray paint in a light coat to overcoat the rust on the platform. The posts looked OK and were not all repainted. The Krylon is a decent match (not perfect) for the original treated metal but once the logs are on the car, it is close enough. The 3451 brake stand was originally a press fit/rivet onto the car body. Without a press, its tough to get it really tight without damaging the integral rivet so after spreading the rivet, I added a little gorilla glue to finish the installation. The car works like new. A couple of pictures are below.

No pictures of my latest project.

I bought a beautiful S gauge Hiawatha 4-4-2 and four streamlined cars. The train is a knockout and the Milwaukee Road class A Atlantic and beaver tail has always been one of my favorite real trains.

Unfortunately  the motor was burned out, so it's getting a can motor and a new tether. Hope to have it running in a few days. can't wait!

I just received my latest project....

What ISN'T on the workbench at the moment? The one commanding most of my time right now is a replacement end for a K-line 4680-30012 18" business car. Instead of the fanciful open deck it comes with (was there ever a real prototype for this? Not on the PRR), I'm replacing it with the correct end for PRR's postwar observation cars. Printed a test run today, final one tomorrow. Hope to have it painted and installed sometime this weekend...

No longer on the bench but now on the layout - four newly completed Hart hoppers have been added to the consist.   Still missing ballast loads for two of them.   Time for some travel so the loads will wait for my return.

Cheers, Dave

I finished up my Weaver/MTH C628 shell swap tonight. Ended up being more involved than I anticipated. MTH made changes after they acquired the tooling, so the MTH shell didn't just drop right on the Weaver chassis.

Not my best work:

…and, “no”, I’m not fishing for compliments. The “two foot rule” may inflate to three on this one.  However, I am learning on this one in order to do a good job on the next attempt.   And it will not be on a RailKing NW2.

Got the ATSF Texas cosmetically completed (tender was done already). It was unpainted (like the tender) and missing some parts. I had to rummage around in my junk bin to fin the sand dome fill covers, engineer/fireman figures, and a couple of pipes under the boiler. While I was at it I also removed the factory stamped metal bell cradle and added the correct cradle with air ringer. I also added a bell bracket that had a pull arm (late ATSF large steam had an air ringer but the bell could still be rung manually by the fireman if the air ringer failed). I wanted to run cords for the whistle and bell so I drilled some holes in the boiler and added stanchions to use as cord guides. I know 5012 is a factory MTH road number but I used it because the illuminated number boards and number board under the headlight already had that number, so I decided to make my life easier and just use road number 5012. It still needs electronics and lights, but I'll get to those over the winter.

@Rob Leese posted:

Not my best work:

…and, “no”, I’m not fishing for compliments. The “two foot rule” may inflate to three on this one.  However, I am learning on this one in order to do a good job on the next attempt.   And it will not be on a RailKing NW2.

Why won't you use an RK NW2 for your next attemt Rob.

Lou....Engine and tender look great. I have the paint and matt clear you reccommended on order for My SF 2926 project. Like your engine the firebox door on the rebuild of 2926 appears silver instead of graphite or black. Did you use the same brand of paint we discussed? Which silver did you use?

Richard

Lou and others......My SF 2926 engine is a railking and does lack some details. Runs quite and smooth so I'm sticking with it. The firebox door class lights are not suitable. If any one knows where I can source the "stalk" class lights  please let me know.

Richard