Can anyone tell me the difference in the Williams true blast sound equipment. when I look at engines I see mostly true blast 2 and true blast plus listed. i can't fine any info online about them.
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The original TB was made by Ott Machine Services and included a horn, bell, and a 2 stage prime mover sound.
TB 2 version 1 was made by Train America Studios and included a horn and bell or whistle and bell.
TB 2 version 2 was a Chinese (Sanda Kan HK) ripoff of of the TAS board with really poor sound.
TB + is current production made by Soundtraxx including a horn, bell and prime mover sounds.
Regards,
Lou N
Thank you for the info
And, oh, OF COURSE, I bought two diesels with True Blast 2. :-o
WBB does sell True Blast+ separately. Its only a 2 wire hook-up. Get on their email list and watch for the sales in their parts dept.
PRR ,Have you seen the Plus Steam available as a separate item?
I was watching videos of the Williams Dash 9 and SD90 and the sound would rev up when in neutral, but when the locomotive was moving, sound stayed at idle. Engine sound didn't change with throttle movement. Is this typical with True Blast Plus?
youre probably not advancing the throttle far enough when running it because it would be going balls out around the layout. if you rewire the locomotive in series, then it runs much slower and you can utilize the range of sound better. i did this on all 6 of my williams nw2's an RS3. all have tb plus now and run at a much more reasonable speed.
My William's 44 tonner just arrived from TrainWorld. Boy there is no slow speed on this little engine. Takes off like a bat out of heck. I assume these can be rewired to run under better speed control? Thinking about converting it to a steeple cab using scalerail's kit. Now if my auto had pick up like this - I would have a suspended drivers license : ).
@ScoutingDad posted:My William's 44 tonner just arrived from TrainWorld. Boy there is no slow speed on this little engine. Takes off like a bat out of heck. I assume these can be rewired to run under better speed control? Thinking about converting it to a steeple cab using scalerail's kit. Now if my auto had pick up like this - I would have a suspended drivers license : ).
I've re-wired all of my Williams locos using the in-series method described many times here on the Forum. Takes about 15 minutes from shell off to shell on.
The difference in performance is stunning, actually. Jack rabbit starts and off to the races speed to nice and easy. Throttle control on my ZW so much better.
@johnstrains posted:I've re-wired all of my Williams locos using the in-series method described many times here on the Forum. Takes about 15 minutes from shell off to shell on.
The difference in performance is stunning, actually. Jack rabbit starts and off to the races speed to nice and easy. Throttle control on my ZW so much better.
I did an advanced search on the forum for Williams+rewire+series. The search got a lot of hits, but every one of them said (paraphrasing) 'I rewired the motors in series and it runs better', but none of the threads included a diagram of the revised wiring. (In one of them, @ADCX Rob did post pics, but they are no longer viewable.)
If you know of a thread that contains the actual details, please post a link. Thanks.
@Mallard4468 posted:I did an advanced search on the forum for Williams+rewire+series. The search got a lot of hits, but every one of them said (paraphrasing) 'I rewired the motors in series and it runs better', but none of the threads included a diagram of the revised wiring. (In one of them, @ADCX Rob did post pics, but they are no longer viewable.)
If you know of a thread that contains the actual details, please post a link. Thanks.
Well, it's over on the right side of the page now! Somebody just revived the thread.
Look at the post by Roy Boy on page 1. There's a simple step-by-step list of how to do the in-series wiring.
@Mallard4468 posted:I did an advanced search... (In one of them, @ADCX Rob did post pics, but they are no longer viewable.)
If you know of a thread that contains the actual details, please post a link. Thanks.
Give me a link to the thread(s) and I will try to fix it.
Here is one tutorial: https://ogrforum.com/topic/2415514336696516
Here is the parallel vs series wiring comparison:
@johnstrains posted:I've re-wired all of my Williams locos using the in-series method described many times here on the Forum. Takes about 15 minutes from shell off to shell on.
The difference in performance is stunning, actually. Jack rabbit starts and off to the races speed to nice and easy. Throttle control on my ZW so much better.
Maybe I missed it, but is this "Williams 44T" being discussed the relatively recent scale model, or the older Williams emulation of the PW Lionel "44T" (which, of course, was nothing like a real GE 44T)?
@ADCX Rob posted:Give me a link to the thread(s) and I will try to fix it.
Here is one tutorial: https://ogrforum.com/topic/2415514336696516
Here is the parallel vs series wiring comparison:
Oh man that looks very easy. You really don't even have to solder, although that's the most secure method. You could crimp the ends and twist together with a small end cap and liquid electrical tape. Or a suitcase connector would work too.
@D500 posted:Maybe I missed it, but is this "Williams 44T" being discussed the relatively recent scale model, or the older Williams emulation of the PW Lionel "44T" (which, of course, was nothing like a real GE 44T)?
Sorry, I have no clue on that particular locomotive. My reply was simply about the general benefit of re-wiring Willliams locos. Most of my Williams are F3 AA units and some GP9s.
some people have suggested adding a ERR sound board to an Williams engine that has True Blast 2. My questions is do you replace the true blast card 2 or do you add the ERR card to the existing true blast 2 card?
