I am looking for the simplest way to connect & disconnect the power & common wires from the lift out section on my layout,in my previous layout i used alligator clips to connect & disconnect the wires & it worked just fine for the 5 or 6 years that i had it,is there any reason why i cannot still do it this way?,if not what would you recommend & where would i purchase them?
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Well, I think you have already been using the simplest way. How often do you need lift out the section? Are you just breaking track power? There may be other methods, depending on the type of power you are breaking.
Bob, i am using lionel 180 watt power house for each of the 4 loops that i will have.i like the alligator clips,i just wanted to know if it is OK to use them,i thought that i read somewhere on the forum that it wasn't a good idea,like i said before i didn't have any problem using them before,& as far as how often i would be lifting the section out,it is hard to say probably maybe once or twice a week a week,& yes i would just be breaking track power.
Others will probably offer more complicated methods, but I think your alligator clip method is just fine. If it has worked in the past without incident, there is no reason it shouldn't work again.
Is there any reason why you are using "lift out" instead of hinging one end? That way you don't have to connect and disconnect wires every time you go through. Also, you don't have to put the section anywhere.
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Dennis
Anderson Power Poles.
Dennis,i did think about a swing up section,i even bought a piano hinge,but when i would try to swing up,the track would land on top of the stationary track,so i just decided to do a lift out,i have never done a hinged lift out before,a lift out was the easiest way for me to go.
Tom Tee, those anderson power poles look like i may consider them,thanks for the suggestion.
I believe some folks here have used automotive trailer light type connectors. These might be easier as they just push together and would probably make better connections than alligator clips. You could probably get them at any nearby auto parts store. Fairly inexpensive. Something like this or similar:
Personally I would prefer the tighter connections of the plug-in type, but on the other hand if your alligator clips worked for you for a few years before and you were happy with them, no reason they should not work again.
Dennis,i did think about a swing up section,i even bought a piano hinge,but when i would try to swing up,the track would land on top of the stationary track,so i just decided to do a lift out,i have never done a hinged lift out before,a lift out was the easiest way for me to go.
Tom Tee, those anderson power poles look like i may consider them,thanks for the suggestion.
a piano type hinge will not work as you saw. an off set pivot point is easy to make and will work well. sort of like the hinges on the hood of your car.
JohnS is correct and I have some photos of mine if you want to try it. My email is in my profile.
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Dennis
P.S. Having said this, it is possible to make a piano hinge work but you have to cut the piano hinge into sections, cut away part of the table, and do some precise angle cutting to the track. A messy, difficult job at best.
I used cinch connectors and they are also known as Jone's plugs. There was an article about them in OGR a few years ago. They can handle the higher amperage that some of the auto/truck connectors cannot.
I second the idea of a hinge, here's what we do for the modular club layout. I got fancy and wired some relay control to cut power to adjacent sections when the bridge was up, but that's not necessary in this environment.
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If you want to use the lift out VS hinged, I have a method.
I use spring copper straps on the bottom of the lift out ends wired to the track.
They sit on matching pieces that are built in the table connected to track power.
When the section is in place power flows through the copper strips on the table, then into the copper on the lift section, then to the track on the lift section.
I am very busy until next Tuesday, I can send pictures of 3D CAD for the design then.
This non-standard, non grounded, polarized (2 prong receptacles) designed for replacement use only works well for my Atlas double track (2 circuit) bridge.
Bridge lifts out and stores under the layout.
Using typical household 110v 15 & 20 amp plug/outlets can get you in trouble with a fire marshal in a public display. He was royally ticked!!
I tried this 12 years ago and was told not to operate my modular display at a large train show.
In Europe, where the wall outlets are 220-240vac, they sometimes use American-style plugs for other types of connections. I have a European low voltage lamp that runs off a wall transformer and the low voltage connection from the transformer to the lamp is a two-prong plug like we use for 120 volt house current here.
I use double banana plugs for my 2 track section and they work fine. No voltage drop, DCS signal is fine.
This is the modular plug I use for my 4-track lift-out section. It's a bit more work to assemble than some other solutions, but once you get it set up it is rock solid. It has a built-in key so you cannot put it together wrong. This plug actually has room for 5 pairs since my friendly local electronics store didn't have one for 4 pairs.
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I believe some folks here have used automotive trailer light type connectors. These might be easier as they just push together and would probably make better connections than alligator clips. You could probably get them at any nearby auto parts store. Fairly inexpensive. Something like this or similar:
Personally I would prefer the tighter connections of the plug-in type, but on the other hand if your alligator clips worked for you for a few years before and you were happy with them, no reason they should not work again.
I purchased the loop version of these at Advance Auto Parts for $2.99 + tax.
Mike
I used two trailer harness plugs for my layout, one for Level 1 and one for Level 2. They work great and are easy to wire in.