Wiring help

Lol, excited?

You'll need to give some more info. A track diagram or good description of it might help. The switch numbers and track type too. Some turnouts can be powered constantly, other rely on track power.  Do you plan on using the CW? The ZW might be plenty. They have to be phased to be used together. (YouTube, search "Lionel transformer phasing" easy, informative, and fairly entertaining).  Any planned accessories? Lights?.

A few circuit breakers or fuses, one for each circuit wouldn't be a bad idea. Track#1.track #2. Lights,.etc. Plastic #91 is adjustable, but new and aftermarket works too.

Raider, You might like to acquire some hardware to operate lights, your switches and operating accessories from your remote. I am using the Lionel SC-2s to do this. A few good sources of information would be the Goldnhands website and Carls S Gauge Empire.

Ray

First I am using fastrack all 036 remote switches the curves are 060 048 and 036. I do plan on  accessories. But right now I just want to power the track what circuit breakers do I need I know how to phase the transformers was planing on using the cw for accessories 

My links can only be pasted at the beginning , an Android quirk.

http://www.scarm.info/index.php

^^Link to SCARM^^ (simple computer aided railway modeler)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iASQfnE6pCk

^^Link to the Lionel video^^

The #91 is adjustable, and 6-7 amp aftermarket should be enough for each track. The idea is to use a breaker pretty closely matched to the draw of each circuit. Fuses usually act fastest, but replacement gets old. The ZW has one breaker built in, but it is a bit on the large side. A smaller one for each thing controlled by it is safer. The built in one also does not work on the accessory terminals, so adding something there can be a real asset.

Also because your using command I guess you won't need to wire the switches for separate power unless maybe you run postwar too and still want to have full power at the switches at all times.

  A TVS, transient voltage suppressor, is a cheap add in that may save a board during derailment. I don't have a suggested part, but there are plenty of threads with references, especially in the last year.

Command does best on Star wiring if I recall right. A wire set to the table "center" then the drops fanning out, like a star. I'd do at least two drops per loop, 4+ on the large ones, and one on each side of every turnout.(ideally, don't pull track power through a turnout, go around it). Terminal blocks for connections at the stars center can help make it easy and changeable quickly. If your table is open in the center, just make due and approach any issue as it rears its head.

Your plan doesn't seem complex. Most of these ideas presented are good and for your benefit, but not "necessary" really; more protection is all.  You can always add switches to kill power to sidings, etc etc, later. So I'd say get started laying track if your itching badly. A simple carpet loop till the table is ready is always fun to have going while you work, if this is going to take a while.

If you want to check things deeper for a better guestimate on track fitting, try SCARM, (PC not for Mac) It's a free tracklaying program and the author posts here often, and lots of folks can help if you get stuck (software is his hobby) ( download from the blue section, not where it says download in a Google ad)

I'm on an Android now and can't run scarm anymore, but it does help with knowing what you need (parts list generator) and what should fit. If you want help on the fitting, lots of folks here love to play with designs, so a post asking for help will probably yeild half a dozen design tweaks overnight.

I like the yard, but I did see a couple things of possible concern, but as long as you know your running style, might be fine?. #1 They don't make a curved crossing for entering the yard; hard to tell, you might know this and #2 they don't make a dual curve turnout either. #3 I think the inner loop (ties) could be eliminated and the yard enlarged and tied in as loop #3 by adding two more turnouts than you planned for to make a loop, AND you could then use the yard entrance as a reversing loop to turn any of the trains around by using the turnouts taken from the ditched loop and adding them to the yard entrance to exit the yard counterclockwise.

   As is, there is a lot of long backing up needed to change tracks, and access the yard, and once you are done, you would have to back into and around it again to reverse again. (I hate backing a long distance, I'm more a loop um and watch guy) If you plan on keeping a switcher in the yard and grabbing cars off or adding on from the #2 loop I guess you'd be fine except backing out of loop #3.  Like I said, it depends on running plans.

   Using two transformers together, phasing them is a good idea even if issolated, just incase the commons bump. I was doing it by phone instructions as a kid, it's not hard. Nor is it necessary to fully understand exactly what's going on, but the video explains it. All you need is a meter or a bulb and some wire. (No meter? Plan on putting $20 into one eventually. There isn't a much more useful tool for the hobby except a screwdriver set or needle nose pliers)

   Watching the video explains it, but basically phasing aligns the waves of ac power you would normally see on a scope. Just follow along and mark the ZW plug for the "big side" and your about done. Power coming from two sources, it's possible for them to clash, producing over voltages, or seem to not turn on at all (CW). 

But right now I just want to power the track what circuit breakers do I need.

I would recommend the Lokon from Lionel for circuit protection. These have fast acting breakers and will save the electronics in your engines in the case of derailment. I have been using Powermasters which also have the quick acting breaker, but I use these because I still have a number of conventional locomotives and with the Powermaster I can run these from the remote.

Ray

Raider:

I "second the motion" about using a Lionel TMCC Direct Lockon (6-34120) device. It can accommodate power input from either a 135w or 180w Lionel Powerhouse "brick," and there's an interior clip for the TMCC wire from a Command Base. Connect the output of this device to the track, and you'll have the benefit of fast-acting circuit protection.

Mike
(ritrainguy)

I can use the lokon with a prewar zw 

Yes. they will work. I forgot about those. They look like an equipment shack and sit next to the track if I'm not mistaken. Any fast acting breaker will work.