Wiring MTH cantilever signal to insulated section- Figured it out

I think I figured it out on my own.  I need a bridge rectifier and a SPDT relay.

The bridge rectifier changes the AC track power over to DC for the relay.  When the train completes the circuit on the insulated section, it activates the relay which shifts the power from the green light to the red light.  When the train exits the insulated section, the relay goes back to the green light.

Seems fairly simple and will allow me to use my signal a little more often.

I'm going to go check out my local radio shack in a little bit to see what they have.  I'd like to try to do it today without ordering parts and paying shipping.

Z-stuff has some items,youcan use.

Saw them on the Black Diamond RR DVD.

Hope this helps

Sorry,Didn't see the part about the money.

Here is a schematic for what you need.  You can pick up the parts at Radio Shack.  In order to separately operate each of the two you lights you will need two each of the following:

Full Wave Bridge Rectifier; 1.4 amp, 100 Volt, Radio Shack Cat. # 276-1152, Cost $1.39 

SPDT Micro Relay; 12 volt DC / 1 amp, Radio Shack Cat# 275-241, Cost $3.99

I usually buy a small plastic project box at Radio Shack, glue a six terminal block to the top of it and put two in each box.  This sets it up to operate a double light cantalever bridge or a double light target signal.

I figured it out.  I used a bridge rectifier and relay from radio shack.  So far it seems to be working well.  I only wired it up for one line and just moved one of the signal heads to the opposite side.  I bundled the wires for the other socket and slid a piece of shrink tubing over them just to keep them out of the way (didn't shrink the tubing though )

Here's a picture of the finished project. My electronics are mounted in the shack at the base of the signal. The signal is screwed to a wooden base. The shack is glued and screwed to the side of the base, and there is a screw and glue underneath the roadbed that holds the whole assembly to the insulated section. It's all one piece and totally self contained. Looks pretty good to me.

Glad you got it all working, now you may be inclined to install a few more...

Marty

I have mine running off two tracks with a 2RC from Three rail Innovations and no rectifier needed.

          John

I like it, but I don't really want to do all that work again  For the size of my carpet central, it's not really worth it to install any more.

Treads,

Wouldn't you need a resistor in your drawing if running DCS or TMCC with 18 plus volts?

Maybe I missed something but i don,t remember the part about bidirestional signaling.  I purchased several of these units some years ago just to do that.  I also purchased four heads for each signaql.  Can someone help me with this problem?

Thanks

i also use radio shack's pc relay and bridge rectifier to activate all of my mth signals, crossing gates, and crossing signals with sound! ( no mth or lionel itads for me!!)...........rogerw.

The relay-outside insulated rail method is explained here

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/BlogShowThread?id=410&categoryId=426

Bi directional signaling can be accomplished but it is a bit more complicated and takes a number of relays.Also depends on how the layout is configured.

The Radio Shack PC mount relay is OK for signals and such. However for more complicated switching and block control,multi contact relays with 10 amp or more contacts are useful. A picture of such a relay is at the end of the post linked above with a screw terminal socket which can be screwed down to mount on plywood..

Dale H

Can the bridge rectifier be eliminated if a 12 volt DC power supply is used instead?  I was thinking of using one of those transformers that come with assorted electronic devices to supply power for the relay.  It would simplify wiring a bit. 

Any thoughts?