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you know Stan, I ran into the same problem of not finding it today.  I wanted to check out any comments and see if it listed the input voltage range.  I too found the one that you posted and THOUGHT it was the one that I ordered.  I should know this afternoon if the TRACK PACKAGE info is right.

If it's the same then 12vdc is supposedly optimal but it will accept a range of 10 to 16. 

George: what you were offering to do is why I tried this morning to find it.  I didn't notice that the one that I thought was mine might not be until Stan pointed it out.

I'm often so disappointed about things electrical.  Almost always anything electrical becomes more complicated than it should, or the task requires or assumes a certain level of electrical knowledge relative to the discussion.

BTW: I realized that I really did not spend adequate time reading all of the posts.  I went back and read them with care and it became more obvious which ones were for mine and which ones were for Stan's.

as always, thanks - walt

I'M ABSOLUTELY SICK!  Not to mention totally 100% embarrassed. .

My relay arrived yesterday, Tuesday.  Got out 2 wall warts, one at 12v and the other at 4.5v.  snipped wires from the TRY ME and connected 'extenders' to them (I already had done that days ago to the ON/OFF wires).  

I can't explain my stupidity in what I did next.  I wanted to see if the ferris wheel still worked with the TRY ME button bypassed.  My thought was to just touch the 2 'extenders' to each other and that would like pressing the TRY ME button.  that's actually true.  BUT..., and I wish I knew what I was so wrongly thinking, I hooked the 2 TRY ME extenders to the 12v wall wart  .  Well, I bet you can predict what happened.

I now have a static ferris wheel.  Apparently I fried the PC board.

STAN and GEORGE: I wish we lived closer so I could treat you to dinner and drinks.  I feel so guilty = both of you committed time to help out here and I ruined everything.  You deserved better.

The ferris wheel is really nice.  Before I return the relay I'm going to see if I can find another (working) one.

If I can't find one I guess I'll return the relay since I can't think of anything else to use it for.  I have a whistle shed and an operating Santa Claus shed that I suppose I could replace the push activation button with the relay, but to what end?  Who wants a whistle to just randomly blow any old time or have a Santa come out of a building whenever.

I do thank everyone for you help - embarrassedwalt

Zeke: this vendor accepts credit cards so not having a paypal account was not an issue for this.  I just bought it.  Thanks for finding it for me.  Funny: Earlier this morning I did a google search and it did NOT show in the list.  Glad that you found it.  Again, thanks!

I'm going to have to think long and hard about snipping wires again!  Maybe this one will work differently and I'll be satisfied with its performance.

- walt

stan2004 posted:

Walt, since you presumably have the base of the ferris wheel take apart to access the wiring, could you post some pictures of the circuit board (front and back)?  

Stan: I'll try.  But I looked at trying to remove the board and the 'support' pieces are all hot glued in place.  I'll try today when I get home and see what I can do.  I only have a point-and-shoot but I'll see if I can get good images.  I suppose seeing the top without the flip side would by a waste?????  Asking, not saying.

- walt

Mallard4468 posted:

If it makes you feel any better, the first time I did an oil change, I drained the transmission instead and then poured 5 quarts of oil into the engine, with predictable results.  I didn't pay a lot for the car, but I'll bet it was more than that accessory cost.

Yeah, I guess one would call that more significant than ruining an accessory that bought used for $4!  Thanks for cheering me up some.

- walt

stan2004 posted:
walt rapp posted:
 
...  I suppose seeing the top without the flip side would by a waste?????  Asking, not saying.

 

If the top side is all that's easily accessible then it's more information than we have now so not a waste. 

I do NOT recommend loosening hot glue blobs with a soldering iron!

Wrap the cool tip in foil first

STAN: your pictures are below.

When I removed the PC board I got access to the motor.  I snipped the wires leading to it and hook it up to a 4.5V wall wart and it turned the ferris wheel .  Sure, no sound or lights but I"m OK with that.  Since Zeke found me one, which I ordered, I'll put the 2 in close proximity to each other and the sound from the new one will be enough.  At least I will have 2 that both move. 

Since the wires to the speaker were still attached I hooked up the speaker to a tape recorder speaker that I extracted years ago and attached long lead wires so I could play music on the layout from the tape recorder.  No sound came out of the wheel's speaker even though the tape recorder speaker played sound.  I gave up on that idea.

STAN: here's the pictures that you requested:

PICT0096PICT0097

thanks again for all of your help.  I still feel really guilty ruining it and wasting so many people's time helping me out.

Here's a 26 second 'no sound' video:

wheel - no sound

-walt

 

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Images (2)
  • PICT0096
  • PICT0097
Videos (1)
video of it playing - no sound

Walt, thanks for posting the photos.  I was curious about the technology they used. 

The black blob on the back of the board is the IC chip that has the sound memory, sound player, and logic circuitry to turn on the motor and lights and sequence thru the various songs in response to a TRY ME button press.  This so-called COB or Chip-on-Board (a.k.a. "glop-top") packaging scheme saves money, space, etc..

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