ZW Transformer stopped working

I would take a look at both the red and green bulbs and ensure they are not burnt out so you have good indicators. I wonder if the circuit breaker is somehow tripping or faulty, but the red lamp isn't illuminating due to a bad bulb.

Another thought is that the cable may not have been replaced (or fully replaced) and is somehow disconnected from the primary.

Service documents are available in the Greenberg , Aurotech, K-Line books, the LCCA Digital Archives, and Olsens:

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=671

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=672

I had a KW that did that.  The problem was in the molded rubber plug.  The electrical wire connection to the spade pin disbonded causing an open circuit.  I used to be able to twist the wire at the base of the plug which would restore power momentarily.

Assuming you are comfortable opening the thing and poking around a little...

I'd start by (first unplugging it) opening the top and looking for obvious broken connections of the power cord to the transformer.  If nothing looks disconnected, move on o using an ohm or continuity meter to probe between the plug prongs and the connections on the transformer's primary.  If that all checks out, you'll have to try plugging it in and using a volt meter across the primary to check for 120VAC(ish) and for 20VAC(ish) across the secondary.  It's been a while and others are more experienced, but from what I recall the breaker and lights are all on the low voltage side of things, so if you read 20VAC on the transformer it's self, I'd look for disconnected wiring on the common side of the secondary, since I believe the hot side is just the rollers.  I suspect a bad power cord, or the main common on the low voltage side, but suppose it's possible the windings have gone bad. 

You indicated that you have no lights and no power.  Did the transformer normally hum when plugged in?  If so, does it hum or is it silent.  If its silent along with no power, and no lights, I would suspect the power cord.  You should only open it up if you are comfortable working with electricity.  Replacing the power cord will involve soldering.  You will need a multi-meter to test the power cord to see if it has developed a break or it has become disconnected from the primary.

Might save you a bit of unnecessary work by simply checking the house circuit breaker for that room! Don't assume it's ON just because the room lights turn on - very often wall sockets in a room are on one breaker, while overhead lights in the same room are on another.

if it has an original cord, check for breaks in the cord up or near the housing of the transformer and near the plug

If you have a Volt-Ohm meter ---- unplug ZW from wall, measure resistance between the two prongs of the ZW's wall plug. Should be a very low resistance (my memory is reading should be less than 100ohms). If you get a high resistance reading, or an open indication, then the power cord from wall plug to primary is bad somewhere.

Dollars to doughnuts it's the power cord. Pop the top off and see if either of the two cord wires are connected to the coil. If they are the cord probably has an internal break somewhere, especially if it's original. I've replaced a couple of ZW cords and it's not bad, but it helps if you are decent at soldering. 

Thanks guys! To answer some questions. It doesn't hum. It's not the light bulbs. It has to be the power cord which doesn't sound like an expensive problem but I suck at soldering. I just need some practice with tinning and all that. By the way, how easy is it to replace the left handle? When I bought it MANY years ago, I bought it with a broken handle. I was young stupid and broke. I hope it's easy to replace.

Handle replacement instructions are included in the service documents referenced earlier:

bmoran4 posted:

 

Service documents are available in the Greenberg , Aurotech, K-Line books, the LCCA Digital Archives, and Olsens:

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=671

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=672

 

Full text accompanies these figures:

Early Models:

Later Models:

Thank you

Christian, just a side note. if you haven't already, and you did in fact find out that you needed a new cord, don't spend $8 on a new cord.

I have replaced many cords on ZWs. I go to goodwill or salvation army, buy a curling iron for $1.00. cut the cord off and through the curing iron 

away.

Popi posted:

Christian, just a side note. if you haven't already, and you did in fact find out that you needed a new cord, don't spend $8 on a new cord.

I have replaced many cords on ZWs. I go to goodwill or salvation army, buy a curling iron for $1.00. cut the cord off and through the curing iron 

away.

Yeah, but I'm betting your curling iron cord doesn't have a big 'L' like this one!!!!

FOUND THE PROBLEM: The problem is not the wiring inside. Everything inside looks tip top! The problem is the plug. Let's put it this way. When I plug it into the wall I get no juice. If I pull the wire up I get juice, I let go...no juice. So how would you guys go about doing this. By the way Pop, I appreciate the curling iron suggestion. Should I simply buy a new plug and cut the old one off and connect the wires with electric tape? Should I solder? What would you guys do?

I would replace the whole cord and solder it to the primary. It is a pretty basic soldering job.

First choice would be to follow @bmoran4's advice about replacing cord.

If you don't feel comfortable doing the total cord replacement, then inspect the existing cord from plug to transformer for any cracks in the insulation - if cracked, you need to replace. If cord is not supple, i.e. if feels stiff when you bend it - you should replace.

If cord is okay, you can replace the plug. There are many choices of replacement plugs available (two prong, two prong polarized, three prong, screw terminals, snap on {just insert wire, close cover, prongs penetrate insulation to make contact}, et al) and thus hard to cover all here. I am sure an attendant at your favorite hardware store can give advice as to what to pick and how to install.

BUT - one important thing to note is that if you buy a plug that is polarized (i.e., it is a three prong plug - or - a two blade where one blade is wider than the other), you will be permanently polarizing/phasing the transformer. So, if possible, buy a plug that is not polarized. If you can't buy a non-polarized plug, then be prepared to install the plug, check the phasing with one of you existing modern transformers that has a polarized plug - if out of phase, have to remove plug, reinstall plug with connections reversed, then check phasing again to make sure.

If you do the cord replacement, thentry to buy a replacement cord with non-polarized plug. If you try to use a replacement cord that has a polarized plug, then the aforementioned install - check phasing - possible reinstall to correct phasing applies.

Don't blame you if you are confused - I know what I am trying to write, but don't have the knack to pick words that impart clarity. Just trying to let you know you can go from easy to complicated very quickly. So what else in life is new?

 

 

Is the cord looks good and you're comfortable that it's safe, just go to the store and get a plug. They sell ones that attach with two screws and all you have to do is strip the wire and attach, or they even sell some that have a pierce connection and you just push the connector with the wire inside it into the plug housing and it pierces the insulation making a contact.

When I opened up the ZW, and this is the first time I've ever opened up a ZW, I expected it would be an easy soldering job but the wires are tucked underneath and tucked in between two parts and doesn't really look that easy. For me. I already ordered a Lionel replacement cord:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/L-POW...p2057872.m2749.l2649

But after reading MED and BMORAN4's replies, I went back to eBay to cancel the order. However, it already shipped. I should have just went to a hardware store and had a new plug attached to the wires. I can still do it and eat the cost of the cord but wouldn't it just be easier to cut off the defective plug and simply attach the wires to those of the new cord? I'll twist them together and use some electrical tape. No? Is that bad. Instead of using electrical tape, is there hardware to use which would make it a nice solid connection?

Christian posted:

FOUND THE PROBLEM: The problem is not the wiring inside. Everything inside looks tip top! The problem is the plug. Let's put it this way. When I plug it into the wall I get no juice. If I pull the wire up I get juice, I let go...no juice. So how would you guys go about doing this. By the way Pop, I appreciate the curling iron suggestion. Should I simply buy a new plug and cut the old one off and connect the wires with electric tape? Should I solder? What would you guys do?

Make sure it’s not the wall socket . Try another and see if the same happens. If so then you are correct that it must be the cord. 

Find somebody to solder your new cord to the transformer. You are asking to rig things that are risky for injury or worse. 

While you have the pw ZW open, check wear on the throttle arm rollers and the surface of your core windings that they roll on? Also check your binding posts--A,B,C,D and the four U's for looseness or broken wires. You may not be able to fix things now but you will eventually and need to know their condition.

Please keep the transformer unplugged any time the cover is off.

It sounds rather scary when you mention about twisting and taping up two ends of the cords. It probably won’t take long when either the tape starts to fail and come off exposing bare wires or if the cord gets tugged and they come adrift and the two live ends touch potentially causing a fire. 

It is much easier to cut the plug off about two inches down and connect to a new plug, much safer option.

Seeing you bought the new cord, you could always cut the existing cord a few inches shy of the coil, and splice your new card inside the housing. Don't use just electrical tape. You want to use wire nuts or butt splice connectors. Then some electrical tape for added security. If it were me and I were doing the job that way I would use the wire nuts. Very strong and won't give you any problems.  Make sure you put a loose knot in the cord inside the housing so if the cord gets tugged on it won't put any stress on the splice. The correct way of course is to solder the whole cord at the coil. But if you're not comfortable with that, this is a decent alternative.  

Replace the whole cord and solder the new one in place. Don't splice the new cord in. Do it the right way the first time. 

replace the cord replace the cord replace the cord!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

did I say, replace the cord. You will also have to take four screws and the bottom plate off, cut the old cord, unsolder it and pull it off from inside. fish

new cord into housing, tie overhand knot in cord leaving enough cord inside to solder to existing solder lugs. reattache base. move throttles and make sure

everything clears new cord. tuck cord under coil block so its out of way of throttles. if you are uncomfortable with any of this aspect, get an electrician to help you. No aspect of DIY is worth you getting electrocuted and or burning your house down.

side note: the overhand knot should be on the inside of transformer to prevent card from pulling out and stressing the solder joint

Alright popi, I'll replace the cord. I just received it today. How much do you think someone would charge me for having them do this?

If you decide not to replace the cord, and attach a new plug, there is a liquid electrical tape product, sold in Lowe's, Home Depot, and better Hardware stores.

I use this all the time on plugs and electrical circuits.  You apply it like paint.  To be extra cautious, after it dries, roughly 20 minutes applying a thick coat. Then wrap with electrical tape.  It's called "Liquid Electrical Tape".  Comes in black, Red, Green and White.  Works excellently. Save yourself a headache by not taking the transformer apart, especially since you would have to solder the new connection.  A new plug, and insulated with the liquid tape, and wrapping with tape too. will work just fine... 

 

I have never had a good experience with the "liquid electrical tape". It always makes a mess and the coverage is terrible.

Properly soldering in a replacement cord is such a quick and easy job there is no real reason not to do it if you can wield a screwdriver and a soldering iron coupled with some common sense.

There used to brands of liquid electrical tape. One was thinner and more plastic like, and I didn't like it, haven't seen it since the 80s.  The thicker and rubbery type is great stuff. I wouldn't waste time on trailer wiring without it, especially boat trailers.  It's like a thick rubber cement, or thin gasket maker, so does take a painters care and some patience to use it and have it look nice, but it's rugged stuff once set.

The gauge of wire used should be equal to or of a heavier gauge than original.

If I splice a cord, I solder and shrink tube it (one/two tube over each splice & one over both noodles to tie them together.   Splices about an inch or so apart, not side by side.

   I might liquid tape it, but shrink tube always protects, and ties the cord back tight... no "Pa Sketti noodles" on the cord.

I would solder splices for sure because stranded wire in crimps can be pulled out too easy, nuts etc. more unsightly imo.

A bad/worn wall plug is another possibility.

Put your transformers on a power strip with an off/on button and a breaker of it's own smaller than your wall plugs rating.

All,

I am a bit late to this party but I wanted to post what I did for my ZW when the power cord failed.

I had a very similar issue as the OP.  I purchased a used ZW and a year or so after, one day it was just dead.  The cord had failed right at the point where the wire goes into the plug.  I had one of those screw-on replacement plugs so I put that on and re-phased it.  That was my "emergency" repair.  Since I was going to replace the cord and use my ZW with other power supplies where phasing is required, I wanted to replace the cord with one that had a polarized plug.  But I also didn't want the experience of dealing with stiff replacement cords like most extension cords are.  I came across this on Amazon:

Coleman Cable 9306 HPN Small Appliance Cord, Black, 6-Foot - https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's polarized and has a similar feel to the original (no Lionel "L" though).  I simply marked the temporary plug so I could match the polarity when I replaced the old cord with a multimeter.

I wouldn't recommend a polarized replacement unless you intend to actually phase it properly.  If you don't phase it and some day need it phased, you will be repairing it again if it's wired incorrectly.

I agree with most here that a bad cord should be replaced not spliced.  I also wouldn't use liquid tape any where near my stuff.  I've used liquid tape to help weatherize outdoor RF connections but IMHO it's not for this sort of repair.  Unless it's layered either with multiple coats or plane tape or something, it will not provide proper insulation from 120 volts and it messy as ....

Tony

I just checked the dielectric strength of Performix brand liquid electrical tape. ...3m had nobody available to answer the question. The dried Performix product is good for 1000v per mil..... so applied properly, has plenty of resistance and a better sealing quality than most electrical tapes. So much for the theories it's substandard in some way

The for mentioned liquid tape when applied correctly to 120/220-VAC 60/120 Hertz outlet device is 800 times more protective power than the best tape in the world.  Topics like this are always enjoyable due to the many methods that will be approached for a very simple cost effective and no hassle repair.   Especially if the individual making the repair in this case is not an advent solderer.....

I would do the soldering myself but when you take off the housing it isn't like the places where you solder the wire to are blatantly open and easy to get to. It looks like I have to take apart some parts that I am not sure I will be able to put back. Anyone have diagrams?

Christian posted:

Anyone have diagrams?

Yup, back in the very first response to your thread:

bmoran4 posted:

 

Service documents are available in the Greenberg , Aurotech, K-Line books, the LCCA Digital Archives, and Olsens:

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=671

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=672

 

Adriatic posted:

I just checked the dielectric strength of Performix brand liquid electrical tape. ...3m had nobody available to answer the question. The dried Performix product is good for 1000v per mil..... so applied properly, has plenty of resistance and a better sealing quality than most electrical tapes. So much for the theories it's substandard in some way

That's interesting for sure.  I guess that's what I get for posting before I check what's available today vs the 20 or so years ago when I used liquid tape.  

That's what I like about this forum, you learn something new every day.

Tony

Christian posted:

Alright popi, I'll replace the cord. I just received it today. How much do you think someone would charge me for having them do this?

I charge $25 to replace a cord, buts that me, If you get an electrician to do it you probably will pay more.

Thanks BMORAN4. I am going to open her up and solder it myself. If I wuss out I'll take it to a hardware store that also happens to sell and fix trains. Good guy. Walker's Hardware in Totowa. Wish me luck.

Tony_V posted:

Adriatic posted:

I just checked the dielectric strength of Performix brand liquid electrical tape. ...3m had nobody available to answer the question. The dried Performix product is good for 1000v per mil..... so applied properly, has plenty of resistance and a better sealing quality than most electrical tapes. So much for the theories it's substandard in some way

That's interesting for sure.  I guess that's what I get for posting before I check what's available today vs the 20 or so years ago when I used liquid tape.  

That's what I like about this forum, you learn something new every day.

Tony

Don't beat yourself up. Your other points about it being a pita sometmes is spot on.

  I'm also very  function oriented, "looks be d****d" is sometimes a battle cry.. I could see it being a last ditch effort only product for some folk.

 You also likely tried the brand that I also didn't like (?). It was very plastic-y and thin, would take three+ coats easy. I've only had to buy 3 cans in 30 years; the stuff lasts a long while if it doesn't cure in the can (3 plus that mystery junk brand= 4 cans)

Also, uses do take minding any stray wire ends of splices aren't poking up& out. That's where you would have to apply a two+ coats even with the thicker stuff.   But some care, masking tape( pull off while wet) dry time, and carefull application it can look like shrink tube too.

@Christian Those are kinda heavy lugs. If you have a gun or high watt iron, use that; it will likely make the job go easier. The issue with most rookie soldering is the iron is too small to conduct enough heat, quickly, to get the solder to move to the joint. (solder runs TO heat. It puddles at the tip if not enough, flows flat when right, then puddles agin on the item surface if sky high. Overheating often requires re-cleaning/flux as metal surface can become rife with contaminates; mostly airborne particals doing it)  

A small dot of solder on the iron to joint to aid heat transfer, then the rest goes to the joint only once it is hot enough to flow solder.

Good luck to ya, it's really not hard once you "get" flow temps down.