022 Switch Part Needed

I scavenge them off junk switches.

Great.  How do I get two from you?

You send me a pound of $20 bills and your address.

OK, just send me an email to my profile address and we'll work something more reasonable out.  This is what you are looking for, right?

This is what I am looking for.

Couldn't find profile address.  Can you email  me at hocustom@aol.com and I will respond.  Thanks.

You got it.

Thanks so much.  Look forward to getting them and finishing the project.

I use the manual switches for parts.  The model number is 042.  The swivel rails (these are what the railroads call "points") are the same.  Also, they are a good source of 4-36 screws and the special nuts that are used to hold the switch motors onto the switch.  I have bought them for $2-3 at trade shows.  The demand for them is small.  I bought most of my 022 switches for about $7.  Some had controllers, some didn't. You can buy a bag of  50 lanterns for $50  on eBay.  Don't buy the constant voltage plugs.  A blue crimp connector works fine for the post war switches and they are cheap.  For the newer switches, you will need the Lionel constant voltage plugs as the pin is slightly larger on these switches.  

I picked up 18 "broken" switches in the past 3 weeks from 2 dealers and a friend.  022's and 1122's.  Was able to get all but one working.   Using Armor All and a tooth brush, they all cleaned up beautifully.  Paid $35.00 for all of them, and spent about $24 for parts.  It is pure relaxation sitting in the basement for hours on end working on them. They sell very well at shows.  Regards.

Here is another question.  The broken 1122 switch throws from in line to right when power is applied, but it does not disengage and continues to buzz.  Any idea about what the problem is?  Does anyone else have any idea?

How are you applying power to the switch on the workbench - where are you making the connections?

From the transformer to the center rail and outside rail.

Center rail is fine.  The outer rail must be one of the long continuous rails.  The split outer rails are wired for the 'non-derail' feature and will throw the switch in that direction, either straight or curved, and keep it there.  That's what ADCX Bob was getting at.

OK, that's a start, but there are, depending on whether this is a 1122 or 1122E, there could be 4 or 5 "outside rails".  Could you switch your outside rail connection to the binding post closest to the switch machine housing and test again.

My recollection from the 50's is that the o-27 switch and the 022 O-gauge switch differed, in that the 022 disconnected after being thrown byt the 0-27 would continue to hum if you held the control lever over, or if a train went over the non-derailing rail.

Your recollection is correct, the O27 switches would cook themselves if you park on the switch.

Shorts out if connect to outer rail and then touch the post.

Could you switch your outside rail connection to the binding post closest to the switch machine housing and test again. Keep the center rail connection on the center rail.

Switch worked, but continued buzzing.

You're going to have to get a little bit more detailed than that.

Did you test the switch with a controller? Which controller(single or double), and which bulb(s) in the controller? Does it "work" in both directions?

Those are the next steps.

Actually, no, you need to get it working right w/o a controller first.

Checked it with a single controller.

It does not work in both directions.  Only one.  I am going to try different bulbs per the service manual.  At least it gives me something to do.  I got all the other 1122's working fine.  Thanks for the help.  We have a Club meeting tonight.  Will take it over there.

Try it with no bulbs.

Do not know what I did, but it is fixed.  Used a different controller. Works fine now. I yelled at it once and maybe that did it!!!    Thanks for your help.

Old 1122 switches can be problematic. If you are going to use many of them, take one completely apart to see how it works. They rely on the bottom plate to connect the running rails, and as mentioned the early 1122 versions (which don't need insulating track pins) are configured different from the later 1122E's (which do require insulating track pins). Locos are more prone to stalling on the early 1122's, which is why Lionel changed the design according to their service manuals.

I've rebuilt several 1122's and converted them for fixed voltage input (there is an old thread on that somewhere), but it's probably more trouble than they are worth.

In some cases I have spliced O22 switches into O27 layouts because they have a superior non-derailing action with automatic power cut-off.

A tight curve makes it hard to back a train through a switch. Plus the 022 was far superior to the O-27 switches in construction.  You ought to consider Ace's suggestion in his last sentence.

I bought these to repair and sell at shows.  My layout is all O Gauge, using Lionel and K-Line switches, and K-Line Super K track.   Thanks to all for your help.