1033 Transformer. Anything I should know?

The out put of the 1033 is only 65 watts / 4.5 amps / 16 volts - the input is 90 watts. There is no bell control.

The CW is 80 watts / 5 amps / 18 volts output. I have not had a chance to see with my Kill-A-Watt how many watts it consumes at full load from the wall outlet.

The 1033 is a nice little 90 Watt transformer from the postwar period (although you should not pull 90 watts continuously - de-rate it to 80%). It is roughly equivalent to the CW-80 of today. Like any old transformer, you should review the following:

*Check the main power cord. If it is cracked, stiff, or damaged in any way, have it replaced.

*Check the internal circuit breaker - in a dead short, it still could take many seconds to trip.

*Even if the interior circuit breaker is functioning, it is recommended to have an external breaker or fuse. Generally, a 5 amp automotive breaker or fuse is good enough. However, note that circuit breakers only protect the transformer and not necessarily the trains, especially the fragile electronics of modern equipment. If you can stomach the costs, a magnetic breaker can trip very quickly.

*To protect your trains, you should use one or more TVS diodes. The standard recommendation is the 1.5KE36CA which is readily available on the auction site or many digital electronics suppliers (DigiKey, Mouser, Newark, Element14).

*If the whistle function is important and non functional, you will need to replace the copper disc rectifier with a diode. One of the favorite recommendations is the 1N1190AR, 1N1186AR, or 1N1184AR diode available from aforementioned electronics suppliers.

Have fun!

I'm always recommending this transformer to anyone who runs postwar, MPC and up to the pre-command/sound locomotives of the 1990's with DC can motors.

The one big plus of this transformer is the dual voltage settings to the track. The A-U setting is perfect for postwar/MPC or more modern locos like the Lionel starter 4-4-2 steamer (because of the smoke unit) that need a little more power to the track. Even the RMT locos like the Bang S-4 and RDC Buddy do well with the A-U setting.

The other B-U setting of 0-11 volts to the track is ideal for locos like the K-Line S-2, Alco FA, MP-15, RDC's, any of the 90's vintage Lionel diesels with truck mounted can motors and Williams. You can avoid the jack rabbit starts with this setting, plus it's great for letting kids run the trains as you have less worry of them flying off the rails.

Like BMORAN4 advised, it's a good idea to check over the transformer first. And if you're an inexperienced novice, have someone who knows what they're doing, check it out for you.

Good to know.  

I don't know a thing about the inner workings of it.  Will a power strip with breaker be sufficient?

The Whistle function works fine. I don't think either of my engines has a bell function anyway.  

The only two engines I have are a 2010 Scout from a RTR set and a 70's Amtrak diesel.   Are either of those particularly suceptible to damage or better suited for the B-U wiring?

The 1033 is the only transformer I ever used until I got my "high power" LW (125 watts). It will run anything except dual motored Post War diesels with a string of incandescent lit passenger cars. Anything includes pre war to Legacy and PS3, though an electronic fast breaker.

K.I.S.S.

Pete

A power stip breaker protects the wiring in your house, not necessarily your transformer or trains. Follow the above recommendation for a circuit breaker.

Glad the whistle function works! Nothing more there needed!

A-U or B-U wiring is more of a preference than damage control for the most part. For newer items, be sure not to exceed 18 volts (The 1033 tops out at 16 volts).

In addition, you will want to protect the electronics present, especially in the 2010 RTR set with the above recommended TVS diode.

The 1033 is a great little transformer. Somebody must have forgot that it was in the box of Plasticville!

Eilif posted:

Good to know.  

I don't know a thing about the inner workings of it.  Will a power strip with breaker be sufficient?

 

No. That only protects from a voltage spike coming in from your house wiring. The protection spoke about above protects in case of a short circuit on your track / wiring on the layout.

I use it on the 0-11volt setting to run my streetcars, it gives you a nice slower start up and stop ability...

Marty

Have it checked out.  Remember, it was made in the middle of the last century.   Your call.

 

handyandy posted:

The 1033 is a great little transformer. Somebody must have forgot that it was in the box of Plasticville!

I wonder. I think it was a stuation where the seller was an HO guy and couldn't be bothered with checking O stuff.  I got similar a similar deal on HO bits from a O guy at the same "Will County Model Railroad Association" event.  I think my new strategy for buying building/scratchbuildng parts is to look for HO from O guys, O from HO guys and Junk bags from everyone.

Thanks for the additional good info from everyone else.  Two more questions.

-Is there a specific external breaker you all would suggest?

-Is this check-up something a local train shop would do for me?  How much should I expect to pay for the service?  There's a dealer near me in Berwyn that seems to specialize in O but I've never used him for any service.

Eilif posted:

Good to know.  

I don't know a thing about the inner workings of it.  Will a power strip with breaker be sufficient?

The Whistle function works fine. I don't think either of my engines has a bell function anyway.  

The only two engines I have are a 2010 Scout from a RTR set and a 70's Amtrak diesel.   Are either of those particularly suceptible to damage or better suited for the B-U wiring?

Both of those engines are bulletproof. Look for a fast breaker when you get a modern engine. The 1033 is fine for now assuming it works at all.

Pete

How do you install the diode?  Simply connect one end to a transformer post and the other to the wire leading to the track?

NNJ Railfan posted:

How do you install the diode?  Simply connect one end to a transformer post and the other to the wire leading to the track?

Which diode? The TVS or Horn/Whistle?

For TVS Installation: https://ogrforum.com/...19#72101420648453619

For Horn/Whistle: https://ogrforum.com/...sion-for-lionel-1033

Eilif posted:

Thanks for the additional good info from everyone else.  Two more questions.

-Is there a specific external breaker you all would suggest?

-Is this check-up something a local train shop would do for me?  How much should I expect to pay for the service?  There's a dealer near me in Berwyn that seems to specialize in O but I've never used him for any service.

As stated above, any 5 amp automotive breaker or fuse would be reasonable.

As far as getting it checked out, you already have deemed the power cord worthy as you plugged it in. You apparently have tested the horn control. I presume you have measured the A-U and B-U voltages. At this point, there seems to be no further indications to have it checked out. The only loose end is the internal circuit breaker - either it won't trip (accounted for by using the external), or it will trip too soon (at which point you can replace it at that time).

If you were to take it somewhere to get it checked out, the best response I would expect would be to have the man behind the counter do a quick visual inspection and a quick plugged in voltage reading, whistle control check, and possibly a dead short circuit breaker test all gratis. (Any issues found would result in standard repair services at an hourly rate + parts which will could end up costing more than obtaining another 1033).

In a more standard case, the man behind the counter may simply take it in for service and in a few weeks time be told it is fine or requires further repairs. This almost always will result in an hourly service rate + parts and may not be economical for a 1033.

Port Lines Hobby has a piece here by Tom Jarcho about testing transformers and transformer safety.

Thanks folks,

        The truth is that I don't really have the cash to pay someone an hourly repairman rate right now.  I will measure the output with my multimeter and pick up a TVS the next time I'm near Fry's. 

The other option I'm considering is just giving it to my Dad.  His Christmas loop is powered by a fairly weak 40 watt transformer I got him a while back and neither engine post-dates 1970.

     The truth is that I don't really have the cash to pay someone an hourly repairman rate right now.  I will measure the output with my multimeter and pick up a TVS the next time I'm near Fry's. 

Be certain to inspect the cord and do the AC leakage test described on the Port Lines site. These are personal safety issues.

That written, I have had a lot of 1033 transformers pass through my hands. Haven't had a leaky one yet.
I have had ones with bad circuit breakers that failed OPEN, not ones that would not open on a short.

Once in a while, I get one with a bad whistle control. Usually it's that the retainer came off the bottom of the control shaft. Sometimes the contacts are gunky from too much lubrication combined with dirt getting in there.

Right now I have one waiting for a new rectifier, but there is no safety issue there.

Still, they all should be checked before use.

I have one that does not supply power to the tracks at all. The power cord looks ok and is supple. What would be the most probable cause?

Jumijo posted:

I have one that does not supply power to the tracks at all. The power cord looks ok and is supple. What would be the most probable cause?

does it 'hum' when you plug it in or just nothing ?

Doesn't hum, doesn't sing.

I have one that does not supply power to the tracks at all. The power cord looks ok and is supple. What would be the most probable cause?

Bad (open) circuit breaker.
Or possibly the whistle control. As I wrote above, it is common for the control shaft retainer to pop off.

Check the fixed voltage terminals, if you get voltage, then the breaker should be OK, and it is probably the whistle control.

No, voltage at fixed? - then there is probably a pair of terminals that could be tested that bypasses the breaker. I will take a look at a diagram to identify them.

Looks like "A" and "B" should give you about 5 volts, even with a bad circuit breaker.

Note: that means a circuit that uses "A" and "B" has no circuit breaker protection.