16.5 x 7 Layout

Matt, Congratulations on your new house and space available for a nice sized layout!!  My only suggestion is that if you have one turn-back loop, you should have a second one to turn-back the other way.  It could be done as a mirror image of the first turn-back with a switch as you exit the inner loop upper tunnel portal.

As you may be aware, there are others here who can really pick it apart with some other great suggestions I would never think of.

Matt:

Yiu could try attached -  Just beware - too much track means less room for structures and accessories.

Joe

I would add a way for trains to get to the top level, also I hear putting switches in tunnels can be an issue. 

Looks like a good start - enjoy the process & journey!  I agree with what Mark & Joe have said.  However, to better answer your questions I'll need to ask a few:

What does the space you have in the bonus room look like (i.e., dimensions & shape)?  Are you committed to a rectangular table-top layout, or would an around-the-walls layout be an option?  That might not only give you longer loops but open up possibilities for more &/or longer sidings, yards, etc. 

What are your goals for the layout?  Do you just want to loop-run a few trains at a time?  Does the prospect of operations interest you?  What type of equipment are you interested in running (e.g. traditional vs. scale)?  Does the layout need to be "kid-friendly," or will it be more centered on adult needs/interests?  Do you have any "must haves" and/or "don't wants?"

Thanks guys for the feedback! Mark - you hit the nail on the head - I was looking at the reversing loop and realized it'd be a lot more fun and utilitarian to have a mirrored reversing loop so I'm not limited to having to reverse a train through the turnouts once it's gone through once

I've also re-measured the room (the first layout above was based on quick measurements I took during the inspection - we're all moved in now :-) ) and it looks like a slightly larger table will fit the space better: 215" x 84".  By making the table another 17" longer, I was able to get my second reversing loop to fit in a bit nicer as well as make my passing sidings longer, to accommodate longer trains:

Joe - good point regarding too much track.  I think with my additional 17" length and longer sidings, the need for spur tracks/yard is less pressing.  I know the missus is excited about the scenery so leaving her some room to go wild will pay dividends.

Max - I thought about including some gradients, but given the size of the layout and my desire to be able to operate trains unattended, I'm going to keep it as two separate levels.  In my past experience, introducing gradients requires greater attention when operating trains, and locomotives without odyssey or speed control can run inconsistently.  I'm trying to minimize the number of turnouts in tunnels, while maximizing my siding length.

FRIDGE56VET - The room itself is pretty large at roughly 23" x 18".  I do have another around-the-wall design that is much larger but upon further reflection, I don't want the trains to take up the entire room, as we'll also be using it for entertaining and occasionally as additional sleeping space for guests.  My goals for the layout are to be able to run multiple trains unattended (4 in the case of the layout above), running primarily scale rolling stock.  The layout does not need to be kid friendly, I'm hoping to make it a somewhat hi-rail layout (making a few concessions for ease of setup/leveraging existing track and accessories

Thanks for the input!

Matt,

Thats great!  When I had a chance to measure my room once our older daughter moved all her stuff out, the room was smaller than preliminary measurements.  Though only by 6" and 8" the other way.

Updating the thread here with latest build update - I completed the benchwork this past weekend using 2x4 pine and birch 1/2" plywood.  The layout dimensions are 215" x 84" which will accommodate the track plan outlined above.  Here are some of my latest pictures:

My next items in the build are as follows:

1. Procure 440 Soundboard homasote
2. Glue down 4'x8' homasote using elmer's glue
3. Install track lighting in ceiling to better illuminate the layout
4. Purchase track, track, and more track - I've already got some of the sections I need in Lionel Fastrack, so the plan is to stick with it. I'm hoping that by using shallow screws into the homasote, it'll quiet it down a fair bit.

I'm hoping to have the three base-level loops operational and sidings setup in-time for Christmas

Looks great! Getting that track will definitely be the fun part if you were to order it all. Astronomical shipping costs. 

Some of the dealers offer free shipping and other discounts for purchases over specific dollar amounts. Many of them have offers of this type during the holiday season. If you have a local train shop I would go there first, if not check the OGR forum sponsors for their offers and holiday sales. 

What about access to the rear of your layout ?

What Dan said,

Make an access hatch in the center of both ends. Scenery items can be on top.

Also, time to consider a scenic backdrop before you get too far along when the track laying begins.

Good idea to add the second reverse loop.

Have to played on the layout with the simulation feature? That will let you know if it does what you want to do.

Looks like progress

   Glueing track down with caulk will be quietest, and isnt too hard to remove with a putty knife. Screws in material like that are more like pins/posts. They stop lateral movement more than hold it down well. Screws into the plywood will telegraph more sound though. Both work, it's just knowing what expect.

You certainly will need a pop-up (or two).  

Moonman posted:

What Dan said,

Make an access hatch in the center of both ends. Scenery items can be on top.

Also, time to consider a scenic backdrop before you get too far along when the track laying begins.

Good idea to add the second reverse loop.

Have to played on the layout with the simulation feature? That will let you know if it does what you want to do.

I totally agree with what Carl wrote!  Although, I think you can never go wrong taking Carl's advice!  Get thinking about a backdrop and access.  You will never regret it!

Thanks for the tips guys! Yeah I actually have two access hatches/pop-ups, it's just difficult to see from the photo above.  The plastic bin is actually sitting on one of them to try and flatten the plywood hatch since it has a bit of a bow to it that can't be removed using screws.  As of right now, the access hatches are just loose, I may look into doing hinges, however I like the idea of the popup, that way I don't have the hinged cover blocking one side or the other.

As for the backdrop, I'm toying around with using an image I've taken using the panorama feature on my phone, I just need to ensure the resolution is high enough given the size

Lastly, regarding the track, I'm going to head to Legacy Station here in Atlanta if I can manage tomorrow. I believe they have a fastrack sale going on right now so hopefully I can take advantage of that!

Matt, Sound like you are well on your way to building a satisfying layout!! I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes and really want to see that panorama backdrop when made and installed!!

Hey guys, keeping the thread updated as a build thread - made some more progress this past week:

• Homasote cut and glued using Elmer's glue
  • I found the homasote at a local lumber yard - Capitol Materials off of Marietta Blvd in Atlanta
  • I cut the homasote outside as per a tip on this forum - great tip, that stuff is super dusty!
• Track purchased ($$$!) and laid (temporarily)
  • Purchased from Legacy Station - big thanks to Paul for his help and patience as I counted out pieces.  Also the 20% Fastrack sale made the final bill a bit more manageable!
  • I accidentally omitted purchasing 8 O-48 curves for my reversing loops, so I'll be headed back to Legacy Station to pick those up to complete the base level track
  • Custom cut two pieces per this forum thread, thanks @Rod Stewart
  • I did notice after following my SCARM plan that the Lionel Fastrack switch lengths are incorrect in the track library, which led to me having to deviate from my track plan.  Fortunately I was able to make it work with my custom cuts, but it was a bit frustrating to have spent all that time on my track plan only to find that it wasn't fully accurate. I plan on providing feedback/input to the SCARM creator to update the Lionel Fastrack library
• Control panel built with various components mounted
  • Lionel ZW power packs (2)
  • DCS TIU
  • DCS WIU
  • Lionel TMCC Command Base
• Power blocks mounted and track wiring begun

Current layout progress (Wife for scale)

I managed to get power to the track using one drop just in time before I had to leave for the airport for a work trip and suprisingly that one drop was enough to get a DCS-equipped locomotive around the outer loop with no issues.

When I get back from my work trip, my goals are:

• Install track lighting on ceiling
• Complete the track wiring
• Wire the Lionel command switches using auxiliary power
• Secure the Lionel Fastrack to the homasote.  I'm considering using some expanding foam insulation to secure the track to help deaden sound even more.
• Start laying out buildings and accessories

Question for the folks following this thread - with my Lionel Fastrack Command Control switches, is it possible to control them via DCS assuming I assign them within TMCC (Cab-1/Command Base)?  Or will I have to use my Cab-1 to control them? I've scanned the DCS documentation and I can see how to add/control TMCC locomotives but I don't see how to control TMCC accessories.

Thanks for all the tips and support!

May you are making great progress!!  I'm sorry I don't know the answer to your question.

Matt, I like your layout and space.   Will be a great layout.

Perhaps its too late in your build, but you might consider removing the "S" curves created within the existing crossovers between loops, with this kind of arrangement:  [BTW, I am using AnyRail which implements Fastrack correctly.   The demo version is free to play around with.]

  I would test a sacrificial track piece before commiting to expanding foam. The fumes or foam might mess with the plastic. The stuff is messy too. Once it's on something no cleaning it off. No more wiring work under them once they are filled either.

White caulk in thin beads cheaply holds, safe on about anything, can be painted, water clean up, and stays pliable so dampens vibrations too. Maybe more being at the seat of the vibration, where as the expanding foam is actually rigid once set. 

It's up to you to find where your sound battle is loudest;, track (caulk, felt, cork, foam(?)), reflection off the top( groundcover), and echo off the bottom (underside foam/felt/etc, fill the space/storage, carpet, heavy skirt, enclose&add doors).

Matt,

"I did notice after following my SCARM plan that the Lionel Fastrack switch lengths are incorrect in the track library, which led to me having to deviate from my track plan.  Fortunately I was able to make it work with my custom cuts, but it was a bit frustrating to have spent all that time on my track plan only to find that it wasn't fully accurate. I plan on providing feedback/input to the SCARM creator to update the Lionel Fastrack library"

The switches are correct dimensionally. O31, O36 & O48 work fine right from the box and on SCARM.

O60, O72, & 22.5° cross require the 1 3/8" half-roadbed or no roadbed pieces to be added to the turn-out and the thru on the turnout end of the switch in SCARM. They are not included automatically when those switches or cross is used.

This was well discussed with Milen as the software was being developed. 

Dear Matt:

Please forgive me, but you are going to be aggravated with your self.  Your layout is way too deep.  It will be heck to have to reach back there by the wall to build it, clean it, work on it, etc.  Don't do it to yourself!  Trust me.  This is by far the most common mistake O scalers make.  Watch this video please:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ebtbblFkeA

I'm not trying to make you aggravated or upset with me for butting in.  I'm trying to share great advice, experience and wisdom with you and in the process save your knees, back and the desire to kill yourself once you realize the money you spent making this far too common layout design mistake.  If you proceed and build a layout that wide, you will remember that I wrote this to you.

I had a "bonus" room exactly like you in the photo not long ago.  You have a fantastic chance and great space to construct a layout that will be good.  I write this with the greatest respect to you in my attempt to spare you money and aggravation...don't do that to yourself!  I can't begin to tell you the number of people that have.

If you want to send me the entire measurements of your entire room/area and what kind of railroad you want: toy, display, operational, combination?  And if known: what is the name of your railroad or what railroad do you like--your favorite?  What will be the railroads purpose?  Entertain kids?  Sit and watch? Is it for freight?  Passengers?  Both?  Other?  I would respectfully suggest:  Make it operational so that you, your wife and others would play an active role in the setup to maximize your enjoyment. 

Also, I'm guessing that you are more interested in a main line than switching based upon the drawing???  Is that right?

The most critical thing to know/learn is this and I've been doing this for forty-five years.  I don't know everything, but I can tell you this:  no one can reach across 48 inches or more.  If they could, they'd be on a NBA team.

Lastly, if you go forward with that plan against the wall, at a minimum, figure out how you will reach everything--within 30 inches--meaning cut access holes, put it on wheels, etc. to move it away from the wall.

Peace to you.

RESPECTFULLY,

John 

Ken-Oscale posted:

Matt, I like your layout and space.   Will be a great layout.

[BTW, I am using AnyRail which implements Fastrack correctly.

I'm curious, how does AnyRail do that?

RR-Track does it by forcing you to add a 1.375 makeup straight that is included in the library with each turnout and crossing that needs it. You cannot connect another track without the makeup straight. However, that is actually not entirely accurate because there are 2 makeup straights, one with half roadbed and one with no roadbed, but RR-Track only include a simple 1.375 straight. My understanding though is that the switches and crossing come with both straights, so it doesn't affect the build.

Unfortunately, SCARM includes both straights in its library, but unless you're familiar with FasTrack, you don't know that you have to add one or the other for all parts of the layout to connect properly during the build. I don't know if this would have been noticed by someone (Carl perhaps) if Matt had posted the SCARM file and not just photos. I looked at the photos, but without being able to see the switches being used, I simply didn't see the missing makeup straights.

I got frustrated with RR-Track because I couldn't figure out why the tracks wouldn't connect. Eventually, Carl clued me in, but now I still forget in SCARM sometimes and he again comes to the rescue when I post the SCARM file.

Secure the Lionel Fastrack to the homasote.  I'm considering using some expanding foam insulation to secure the track to help deaden sound even more.

I'm with Adriatic- test the foam before use on the layout. It's messy and sticky. The expansion can be an issue too. Some of this stuff expands many times over the 1/4" bead out of the can.

Nice work so far!

Is the "wife" from Arttista?  

Are you going to want to do any "operating" switching later on?  If so, you may want to reconsider adding some industries with some sidings to perform those moves.  Many have done awesome jobs with switching layouts in much smaller spaces than yours.  See the video of a small switching layout in this link:

https://ogrforum.com/...62#76326080060602462

If your objective is just to have continuous running of several trains, you are right on the mark and it looks great.  Many tire of continuous running and rebuild.  Just a thought...

Hi Doubledaz,   I responded to mattrain's comment about switch lengths being incorrect:

Carl then said:

"The switches are correct dimensionally. O31, O36 & O48 work fine right from the box and on SCARM.

O60, O72, & 22.5° cross require the 1 3/8" half-roadbed or no roadbed pieces to be added to the turn-out and the thru on the turnout end of the switch in SCARM. They are not included automatically when those switches or cross is used."

So sounds as if the original poster was in error, and the switch lengths are actually correct in SCARM.  He just needs to use the fitter pieces, as discussed above?  mattrain can confirm if that is the problem he was seeing.

As far as the 1-3/8 fitter pieces go, to add an O-60, O-72 turnout to your layout with AnyRail, you automatically also add the fitter pieces to the layout, as they come in the box with the turnout.   You get two sections with the roadbed trimmed on one side, and one section with no roadbed on either side, just like when opening the box.  Lionel_Fastrack_O60

-Ken

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all of the input - to reply to suggestions/comments:

• @Adriatic - You make some solid points in favor of caulk vs expanding foam.  I will likely go that route after reading your earlier post along with @RSJB18's note. I'll dig in on the forums here and look for other posts
• @Ken-Oscale - good point regarding the "S" created by my main crossover routes - I didn't see that during the design phase and honestly didn't notice it on Friday when assembling the track.  I'll definitely consider using the O60 turnouts rather than O48s to eliminate that S, if not for this layout, then definitely for the next!
• @Ken-Oscale and @Moonman - Carl is correct regarding the O48 turnouts, they fit with no issue. I knew ahead of time about the 1 3/8 piece and SCARM, I removed it on my O-72 and O-60 turnouts on the "turnout" portion, but even doing that makes the total length of the turnout longer than what SCARM has in the library.  Unfortunately I'm currently away on an extended business trip so I won't be able to confirm actual turnout length vs what is noted in SCARM for a couple of weeks.  I do know that both my wife and I measured the turnout lengths relative to what SCARM has and I believe both the O-60 and O-72 turnout length is 1 3/8" longer than the SCARM library and there is no removable extension piece on the "pass thru" route of the turnout (only on the turn out portion). I could be wrong on this, again I'll need to wait until I can get back home to confirm.
• @John C. thanks for the advice. I do have two access hatches in the middle of the table which will allow me to access nearly all track and scenery after removing the hatch covers but thanks for your concern! Obviously that hatches will require me to crawl under the table, but it hasn't been an issue thus far and I can definitely reach all the turnouts
• @Boo Man and @John C. yep you both are correct regarding the focus on the mainline operation.  For this layout, my goals are to primarily run 3-4 trains simultaneously with some dynamic routes and reversing loops.  I definitely would like to eventually have more yard operations, if not on this layout, then the next.  There is potential to expand to the other side of the room, which could include a yard and some switching, but at this point I don't want to monopolize the room with trains as we're still moving in, finding space for things, and figuring out how the rest of the house/rooms will be laid out. 

Two additional items I need to add to my "next steps" list:

1. The backdrop, as @Moonman had suggested earlier.  I'm going to start looking through my own photos or considering "pre-made" backdrops.  Upon further reflection, I don't trust using my phone's panorama feature, I think I'd be better off using my DSLR camera and taking multiple photos using a tripod and stitching them together that way.  I've got to decide between a scenic landscape or a city backdrop - at this point I'm leaning toward city, although not sure which skyline I'd like...
2. Subscribe to OGR! I've been buying my magazines ad-hoc but I think it's high time I actually purchase a subscription and help support the magazine and these forums!

One additional question for the folks on the thread here - any tips or suggestions for sourcing or building metal girder bridge and bridge supports for the upper line (blue)? In the past I used wooden dowels painted to look like concrete, and plywood cut with a jig saw for the girder base, which I was okay (I never finished the girder sides), however I'd like to try and build supports that look more like metal lattice (thinking of Chicago's EL supports).  I'm thinking for the elevated line using Atlas O rather than fastrack since I don't want ballast on the planned girder bridge.

Matt,

I think your plan looks good for your goals at this time.  Run 3 or 4 trains at a time, and you can easily change things around when you are more settled in.  I have no worries about you making use of the access hatches you have included.  By the looks of your avatar photograph, you are young and flexible like I once was.  I wouldn't go for access hatches now on my layout, but you will be fine. 

Yes, I know there are folks here who can recommend the right upper level supports like the Chicago EL.

I didn't learn the caulk trick here. I learned it before I found OGRF, near a decade ago from the old ho crowd at Bachmann. But I've used it for so many many other things I knew what it entailed immediately. ( I painted for a few years, and a pal that lives here does nothing but caulk). I laid only one small N scale loop for a pal, then I lost track of him, so no real way to know how well it is still holding up; but some tile cracks done with the leftover are still ok

You CAN pull an overkill (don't).. Small beads laid so when the track is set, its roadbed makes contact and slightly squishes it when pushwd on, but not so much excess oozes out (but it IS pretty easy to clean up...or paint.(if it doesnt say "paintable" it likely isnt). Try 4 or 6 short beads vs the whole track. It will hold well and can be reset more easily if removed as there will be gaps for fresh caulk and no need to remove all the old caulk. It will likely insure proper placement again too.

Holding strength varies, but even cheap caulk is actually pretty stong in general.  If you have never removed caulk before, I would try to caulk a piece to a box, then when dry, remove it with a putty knife or four way knife just to see what to expect (old caulk will be a little harder too)

How much for the wife?  I'm interested.   

Paultrainguy posted:

How much for the wife?  I'm interested.   

It says "scale" not "sale".

Oh, my bad.  Misread that. I should wear my glasses more. 

Matt,

Another oddity of FasTrack is that the O60 switches do not replace an O60 curve in a circle. Just send your file to Milen  at  scarm@scarm.info . He will reply to your concerns and explain the dimensions.  Use the measure tool when you get home and compare to the actual track.

I don't use O31 or O60 in many plans.

Another option to help with the sound is to lay 1" thick foam board from one of the box stores on top of the plywood/homasote. Cut it all the way out to the edges of the layout. You can use 1" x ??? trim boards to cover the edge and the 2" x 4"'s, and give a finished look. Put it down with some construction caulking and a few heavy books. You can paint the foam with some earth colored latex and sprinkle the wet paint with green and yellow ground turf and you'll have instant layout. In my experience, the Fastrack will not move very much, if at all, on this surface and doesn't need to be glued/nailed/caulked/screwed down. Once the track is down you can easily scrape away any areas you want smooth for roads and paint/lay them in (or lay them out and mask off beforehand). Seams are generally not visible, but if you want to be on the safe side, I've used 1" wide wallboard tape and flexible vinyl spackling compound before painting. 

Hey guys,

I'm back stateside after an 18 day work trip down in Melbourne, Australia. While down under, I spent my time researching and planning as well as purchasing a few new locomotives - the wife jokes when she and I are separated I fill the loneliness with trains... she's not wrong.  Locomotives purchased online while I was abroad:

1. MTH Premier 20-3056-1 ATSF 2-10-4 Texas
2. MTH Premier 20-2713-1 Amtrak F40PH
3. MTH Railking 30-20290-1 Burlington Northern SD45

While in Melbourne, I did stop by Hearns Hobbies in Flinders Street Station to check out the local hobby shop:

I had been there years ago, but figured I'd drop back in to see if I could find any uniquely Australian accessories or model cars.  Unfortunately it appears O gauge is hard to come by or non-existent in Australia - it's all HO, N scale.

I've made quite a bit of progress on the layout since being back (jet lag does have its benefits) - here's what I've accomplished:

1. Level 1 track laid
2. Transformer, DCS TIU, DCS WIU, and TMCC wired up
3. Tracks wired using home run to a distribution block and 16 gauge wire
4. Track 1 isolated from Tracks 2 & 3 for conventional operation
   1. I have yet to isolate tracks 2 & 3 from each other, as they are connected via fastrack O-48 turnouts which don't have an extension piece I can use to isolate the center rail.  I don't really want to cut off pins or disassemble the turnouts, so for now these two tracks will remain one circuit
5. Lionel Fastrack Command Control turnouts programmed
6. Installed track lighting
7. DCS TIU updated to 6.10
   1. Fixed power-on behavior of DCS-equipped locomotives
   2. Fixed ability to run lashups - hooray!

@Ken-Oscale and @Moonman I came back and measured my turnouts - I see the O-72 and O-60 turnouts have the removable 1-3/8" piece, however if I remove that piece, the "V" plastic roadbed between the straight and curved section would prohibit the ability of the next piece from connecting to the turnout - if I were to remove the extension piece, does this "V" roadbed need to be cut?

Here are some pictures of the layout:

I've been playing around with ideas for the second level and have revised the original plan to make the elevated line a bit more interesting and better accommodate buildings and scenery:

The plan is to use Atlas O track for the elevated line since I don't want the roadbed for the bridge sections and I have an existing Atlas O deck girder bridge.  Thoughts?

Matt,

Welcome back!  Sounds like you had some downtime to think about trains.  That’s great you got to Hearn’s shop!  Looks like it is near a railroad yard of some sort.  Did you see any Australian trains.

Personally I like the idea of Atlas track on the upper level.  I use GarGraves, but either would look good because of no plastic ballast roadbed.  What you have done on the lower level looks good!!

mattrain posted:

I had been there years ago, but figured I'd drop back in to see if I could find any uniquely Australian accessories or model cars.  Unfortunately it appears O gauge is hard to come by or non-existent in Australia - it's all HO, N scale.

 

 

Love your plans thus far! and welcome back!

I lived in Australia (Adelaide) for several years. Actually, O is all the rage there, but G is even bigger. But the prices are amazingly high. I decided not to engage in the hobby while there and, now, upon my own return am busy working on my 8x8 layout. 

MATTRAIN,

Hi, thanks for the update.

" I came back and measured my turnouts - I see the O-72 and O-60 turnouts have the removable 1-3/8" piece, however if I remove that piece, the "V" plastic roadbed between the straight and curved section would prohibit the ability of the next piece from connecting to the turnout - if I were to remove the extension piece, does this "V" roadbed need to be cut"

No, one does not cut that piece, the road bed in the center of the diverging and thru track. The end of that piece, measured to the end of the thru on the straight side, is the length of the switch. SCARM adds in the length of arc of the turnout when one selects the track, right-clicks and selects "length of selected section". It was something in the coding for that feature that required that. perhaps this is what is confusing you.

Use the measure tool in SCARM and measure the longest straight side on the switch. That's what I use when working on fitment.

How does one mate a track to the switch without the 1 3/8" filler?

1. Turnout to turnout - use the 1 3/8" no-roadbed piece. It looks like a block.
2. Modify a regular track to either the diverging track or thru track - cut off the roadbed for 1 3/8" on the side that has to clear the V. You can use the filler piece for an idea of how much to remove - essentially the sloped ballast - that leaves enough

My first try at this I removed too much and left a gap.

I used this technique to make a 4-way crossover and was able to narrow it by removing the 1 3/8" pieces and removing the ballast on a 45° cross to mate 4 switches. I use a Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Reduce a 10" center to spacing using stock pieces to 8.5". I made up the difference by staggering the entry into the curves at the ends to return it to FasTrack's natural 6" center to center spacing.

@Mark Boyce - Thanks! Yep saw plenty, although in Melbourne it's almost all commuter rail/metro electrics.  I did see some V/Line Diesel Electrics mostly VLocity (which I find boring) - I did see a more interesting consist while training out to some friends' in the eastern suburbs - it was a double headed passenger consist with an A class and the more common N Class. All the trains I saw were broad gauge

@LaramieJoe - G'day! Nice to meet another fellow ex-pat, now returned! Radelaide, eh? You must be an expert in church architecture after living there for a few years :-) I lived in Melbourne for two while working for a previous consulting company and absolutely loved it.  Definitely not surprised to hear that the expense delayed your engagement back into the hobby until you returned stateside - everything is expensive in Oz! Interesting to hear that O gauge was big in Adelaide/SA - is it all Lionel/MTH/Williams/etc or do they have local manufacturers?  I'd love to have one or two prototypes on my layout!

@Moonman - yep, you hit the nail on the head- I was getting confused regarding the length of the arc vs the straight section in SCARM.  Definitely user error. I appreciate the tips regarding the add-on 1-3/8" pieces and how to modify existing track if it's removed.