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I got two totes of trains a couple of weeks ago.  A 1948 Berkshire and matching all metal 6 wheel truck tender and a 1951-52 F3 ABA set.  I paid 250 for all of it including a tote of clean tubuler track and switches and a few freight cars.  And it came with a VW transformer.  

I'm ok with the price, I just really liked the Berkshire and love Santa Fe F3 ABA sets.  The F3 engines have metal horns and screen vent covers and plastic portholes.  

I did a bunch of work on the Berkshire.  

The side rods were all a mess and bent up.  I managed to replace the missing parts and bent the side rods back onto shape.  

How do I get it to run faster?  It isn't the Pulmoor motors I'm used to.  

Is this normal for how it runs?  

I'm attaching a video.

It seems to run ok but just seems slow and noisy.  

What should I do to it?

 

 

 

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20200727_205732
Last edited by bobotech
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It seems to my to be running at a normal speed for that engine. Did you regressed the worm gear?  Also I would have taken the motor apart and regressed the ball thrust bearings.  The commutator needs to be checked to be sure it is clean and smooth and that the slots are clean. The brushes need to be a reasonable length, free to move in there tubes, and brush springs need to have good tension.   The track you are running on is known to be noisy. Try setting it on a carpet and see how that is. 

The side rod damage is concerning. One thing that can cause side rod problems is a loose wheel that lets the wheels get out of quarter (one wheel rotates a little on one axle).  You might want to try running the engine with all the side rods, drive rods, and valve gear removed. Then with just the side rods only. With a side rod on one side only, look at the other side and check that all the crank pin holes are perfectly lined up. 

You said it was not the Pulmore motor you were use to.  Can you provide a picture of the motor so we can see what you are referring to.  A 1948 726 should be about as good as post war Lionel gets. 

Here are a few pics.  The engine from the rear doesn't look like the Pulmoor that I'm used to seeing.  

The engine when I got it was falling apart.  The drive assembly was hanging off, sort of screwed in with one screw.  The tiny upper side rods were all bent up. I thought for sure they were going to snap when I unbent them.  Two of the main drive wheels were missing the screws for the side rods, I put temporary screws in those two that work fine for now. The pictures show them as black.   The drive assembly doesn't bind at all now.

I really do love this engine though.   It's so heavy, feels very solid.  The tender feels the same.  

Pics below.20200727_22070320200727_22071620200727_221945

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Being worm drive vs spur drive like a 2046 or 2055 it does not go quite as fast. The speed you have looks similar to mine. Note that the rods do actual work of turning wheels on this loco. If they were bent that could be causing some binding. I would remove the motor and test the wheels with rods free spinning. If binding remove one rod at a time and see if that removes the bind. 

It seems to my to be running at a normal speed for that engine. Did you regressed the worm gear?  Also I would have taken the motor apart and regressed the ball thrust bearings.  The commutator needs to be checked to be sure it is clean and smooth and that the slots are clean. The brushes need to be a reasonable length, free to move in there tubes, and brush springs need to have good tension.   The track you are running on is known to be noisy. Try setting it on a carpet and see how that is. 

My first impression as well; seems plenty fast enough, and no louder than my experience with Fastrack...

Mark in Oregon

@Norton posted:

First step is get the proper shouldered screws for the siderods. As NYC Buff says the rods are doing the work and the more play where they attach to the wheel, the worse it will run. 

Pete

Well I did use shouldered screws.  I used short sections of brass tube to shoulder the screws and used extremely thin washers to keep the side rods in place and not slip over the head.  

@bobotech, Olesn's kindly hosts the Lionel Service Documents (Linked Below). Be sure to use the absolute correct screws. Cobbling your own is likely to have sub-par results. If the correct screws do not retain the side rod because the side rod holes have ovaled or worn out, it should be replaced. Here is an extract showing the side rod components and screws:

Olsen's Index:

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd1.htm

Olsen's 726 Links:

726 2-8-4 Berkshire `46

726 2-8-4 Berkshire `47

726 2-8-4 Berkshire `52

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  • mceclip0
Last edited by bmoran4

I think the difference you see between your motor and other Lionel worm drive motors is the brush tubes. The first of these motors were in the postwar 726 and 671. They are distinguished by the die cast front mount, which is long enough to mound two sets of bearings it. That is two radial bearings and two thrust bearings. The dual radial bearings allowed Lionel to stop using the brush plate as a bearing and allowed them to install thrust bearings that are required to handle the axial forces from the worm drive.  This motor went though three different designs of the brush tubes. The first design used a long compression spring retained in a tube, which screwed into the brush plate. This design is distinguished by the screw driver slot in the of the tube. This was quickly replaced with a nearly identical brush tube that was crimped into the brush plate. In this design the screw driver slot is gone. This was replaced by a stamped, rather than machined, tube with a torsion spring. On this change the silver plating also disappeared.  This final design was used for many years right up to the can motor and is by far the most common.  I believe these three design changes were driven by “value engineering”.

Your loco has the second design, which is the poorest from a maintenance standpoint.   In this design the only way to inspect and service the brushes is to disassemble the motor. The locos shell must be removed, The field wire unsoldered from the brush plate, and the two brush plate screws removed to get the brush plate off. To reassemble the motor the brush springs are slipped into the tubes, the brushes are assembled on the ends of the brushes.  The locomotive has to be lowered onto this so the brushes and springs do not fall out.  Brush and commutator maintenance are important because in my experience there is no faster way to ruin a motor that running it with no spring tension on the brushes. This can occur be cause the springs are bad, the brushes are stuck in the tubes, or they are too short.  The commutator also needs attention. Power comes to the armature by coming in one brush, though the commutator segment, into an armature coil, out a different commutator segment, and out the other brush.  The motor gets it power from the current that flows through the armature coil. The carbon brushes are soft and they wear with use.  Some of that carbon dust gets into the slots between the segments.  Since carbon is conductive the carbon dust in the slots can shunt some of the current from commutator segment to commutator segment bypassing the armature coils. This reduces the current in the armature coil, thus reducing the power output of the motor. Lionel took this problem so seriously that they provided a pointed stick in their maintenance kit to clean the slots.

A good guide for servicing any postwar worm drive steam locomotive is an article that Dennis Waldron wrote.  His article is written specifically for the 773, but with only one major difference it equally applies to the 726.  The difference is that the 773 has an intermediate shaft between the motor and the drivers. In the 1947 and later 726 locomotives the worm gear is on the end of the motor shaft and drives the worm wheel pressed on the axle. In Dennis’ article just ignore the worm shaft, bearings, and coupling. They are not there in the 726.  Dennis’ article can be found here:

https://www.justtrains.com/Hudson/773-1.asp

The 726/736 were made for many years, maybe on and off for almost 50 years.  Many parts used in the 726 came from prewar locomotives 700E and 226.  As a result of this 726 parts are still plentiful and easy to find.  After you figure out what you need I would suggest you contact either Jeff Kane, The Train Tender, or Dennis Waldron, at Just Trains for any parts you need.

 

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