2-Rail Hi-Rail - Help Me, I Might Be Lost

Welcome to the hobby!   You probably should get something running... it doesn't have to be elaborate.   Most folks here are not finite... they evolve and adapt as part of the learning experience ... that is part of the fun!   Don't be overly concerned with scale vs non-scale...  everyone here LOVES trains!

A friend of mine is doing the same thing  2 rail Hi Rail   He has paid for Gargraves to make the track and has gone through the expense and trouble to convert his equipment   My question is Why?   Does that middle rail bother you guys that much?  You still have oversized flanges, foot high rails, giant couplers etc etc   3 rail was designed for ease of installation and use  If your not going to go full scale 2 rail stay with the 3 rail the way it was designed.

Let me answer both of these comments.
Thanks, Dennis. I've actually been doing model railroading on again/off again for 48 years. The two scales I worked mostly were HO and 1/24 (note - I said 1/24, not G, I'll address that in a moment). Recently, I decided to try Z due to how little space it requires. Nope. 58 year old eyes, which are more suited for astronomy, cannot handle wee tiny Japanese Z scale prototypes.
I stumbled upon a Kusan battery powered set on eBay that someone had placed in the wrong category. They were asking 10 bucks for it. When it arrived, I discovered that the locomotive needs work (rebuilding the gearbox, and accidentally breaking the drive axle in the process). That's what got this all started. I have a little stretch of lawn outside my basement apartment that I'm being allowed to use for a small layout, though honestly I'm just looking for a reason to tinker. But this looks like it's going to be fun. Looking forward to a scale where I can actually see what I'm working on.

Blue, your remarks are duly noted. Certainly, I could just stay with three rail, but as I mentioned up there, I'm a tinkerer. I also prefer two rail, though at this point I'm starting to see your point.
Still, I want to give a few things here a shot. My reason for wanting to use high rail is the same as why three rail is so popular - ease of operation, especially with trains that are going to be used outside. Same for the oversized couplers, deep flanges, etc.
When I was into garden railroading, I modeled in 1/24 using G gauge track. This meant that the gauge was 3' 6", not common in the US, but common in a fair chunk of the world. My small layout was based upon a mix of US and Commonwealth gear. Most of my locomotives were battery powered kitbashes, with a number based on New Zealand prototypes. The layout was really just an excuse to build.
I'm still working this out. Right now, I'm working on getting that Kusan battery powered Beep running. I may yet go with three rail, nothing is written in stone.

@RRLittle posted:

Looking forward to a scale where I can actually see what I'm working on.

Boy, ain't that the truth...

2 or 3 rail... If you can find some used Atlas 2/3 rail at a reasonable price it holds up very, very well outdoors... i.e., it doesn't rust or rot.

I can see removing the center rail and retaining the rest.  It enables O-27 curves for larger models, and allows those with less dexterity to get things on the track and run real fast without derailments.  I predict just that when Lionel discovers batery/radio control, as did Radio Shack decades ago.

On the other hand, that setup is not really 2-rail scale, although most of us operate on an incorrect gauge and shouldn't be throwing too many stones.

Dennis,
Yeah, looking at Atlas and Gargraves stainless steel. I know from my hobby shop days that the old Gargraves stuff was pretty reliable (sadly, the shops I worked for concentrated heavily on RC and plastics). I seem to recall that Rivarossi/AHM/Pola was probably a bit too scale like, and an occasional leaf on the track with that might result in a derailment.

Bob,
I like the cut of your jib. Actually, already purchased some old Marx mechanical track for tests, the Beep seems to have no problems (waiting to see how my other locomotives handle it).

Remember, you can solder Atlas (nickel silver)... not, so with stainless.   I have no idea how wood ties hold up outside... I think creosote is a no no these days.

Wow, it is rare to hear of someone modeling Cape Gauge, and in 1/24th scale. As stated 3'-6" gauge was used in some parts of the world. In japan, 90% of all trackage other than the Shinkansen is Cape gauge. The Shinkansen is Standard gauge.

Yeah Tom. I fell in love with New Zealand steam when I saw photographs of the legendary Kiwi Frank Roberts' work in 1/24, using... wait for it... three rail 1 gauge mechanisms! My locos were nowhere near as nice looking, being kitbashed plastic monstrosities, but they captured the feel. Sadly, not a trace of it remains (I might have some photos, but that's it). Sad story.

Anyway, guys, it has been an eventful day here, and I really appreciate the input. Had some more stuff arrive, including an unexpectedly warped Marx S3 (front of the hood has some slight warping, mechanism is kaput). It had been destined for conversion, but that hood wasn't visible in the images. The mechanism might be salvageable, but I have my doubts (concerned about that heat).

I have a very old model train book on the way, one from my childhood, that might give me a few more ideas and inspiration. I also have a Rivarossi FM "C Liner" coming as well. If someone can tell me how to convert it to three rail, you might win me over.

One last thing - would this be the forum to share my restoration work on the Kusan battery powered Beep?

Cheers, and goodnight.

On the "sticky wicket"

This is indeed the only two rail forum, and all the others say explicitly "3-rail."

Your equipment, however, matches only that discussed in the "traditional" and "tinplate" labeled forums.  If it is feedback you want, this is not the place, in my opinion.  Beeps and Marx are simply not items of interest to a 2-rail scale group.  You can already see that by the way these two discussions drifted immediately into track.  Most of us have never seen a Marx item, let alone a "Beep."

Opinion - somebody back me up?

RR, have you considered Sunset Valley Railroad Track?  They have quite a selection of G Scale stuff, but also sell O scale two rail track in Stainless, Nickel Silver and Aluminum.  Aluminum is ideal if you are going dead rail.  I use Track Power so I use their Stainless rail with UV rated Plastic Ties here in Las Vegas.  It's been out in the Vegas heat for over 5 years, still looks great.  6ft lengths simplify install, stagger the joints and you can bend some really smooth curves.  I use Track Clamps from Splitjaw.  I only lose about .5v over 40ft of track

Chris S

Bob,
Yeah, at this point, thinking I don't belong over in 2-rail scale. The things I'm planning are coarse scale out of necessity. I'm now thinking I may have to go 3-rail anyway, again for ease (easier to convert DC to 3-rail than 3-rail to 2).
Chris,
I remember Sunset Valley from my garden railroading days, but mostly for their aluminum rail. Didn't use it, though. Nice prices. Thanks for reminding me of them again.

(I was pretty sure I started this in the 3-rail traditional toy train forum... hmmm...).

Guys, thanks for all the feedback. Sorry if this has turned out so baffling (I'm baffling, trust me), just wanted to see if I was alone in what I am planning.
Due to changes in plans here, I now find myself with even less space. Dreams of somewhat sweeping 36" radius track have been dashed - I now have a whole lot less room to work with. Also, as I suspected, converting certain O gauge (as opposed to scale) equipment from three to two rail or battery power is going to be a bit more daunting, as well as costly. That said, going to move over the the 3-rail categories whilst I hash this out.
Thanks much again.

Let me add my two cents worth:  I started into O scale after being out of it for 20 years.  I decided to go 3 rail because more rolling stock and locos were available.  What I found was that I could by locos on ebay for good prices as they no longer ran. I took a few apart and found they had good DC motors, so I threw away the non operating boards and converted them to DC.  I had a Lionel Fastrack layout and I set it up so I could flip a DPDT switch and run it on DC or AC.  To do this, you have to unhook all accessories from track power and make simple changes to the switches (these changes can be reversed if needed).  I had an AC power pack that ran the switches, then a DC and AC power pack to power the track.  I even converted to Kadee body mounted couplers.

I like that approach, Jack. Thanks for the information.

2 rail Hi-Rail should have the place in the market where 3 rail exists IMHO. There is no technical reason for a 3rd rail anymore. There is still a desire to have big trains in smallish spaces though. Scale couplers with longer shanks can be used and still negotiate tighter radii. I've done testing down to 24"-27"r with great success.

2R Gargraves can look pretty decent with some paint and weathering:

That looks 1000% better than any 3R track to me.

The biggest reason to consider it IMHO is that MTH made a TON of steam engines that are Proto 3/2 meaning throw a switch, remove rollers, and run on 2R Gargraves or Ross track. Here is a video I shot a few years ago while testing the concept:

i have thought about 2 rail high rail when MTH came out with 2/3 rail locomotives and found out even the 3 rail versions where insulated . and since  most of my freight rolls on Weaver Delrin trucks and wheels I'm good to go. And the painted and ballast 2 rail gargraves looks a whole lot better without that third rail. I run all Kadees also. Besides it looks like real mainline rail is getting taller.  Great color choice on the rails Jonnyspeed .